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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2011 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    bahavw

    Mods so far...

    I have a 2015 TC ecoboost SWB wagon. I started modifying as soon as I got home. This lit will help me remember it all. And maybe Ford will listen too. Of course there are those damn US regulations. 1. Removed the cross bars for gas milage. 2. Pulled the rear bench seat to storage > 100# lost 3. Installed removable rubber floor mats in the cargo area for dirt and sound deadening 4. Removed the intake muffler in front of the radiator, it makes it quiet but restricts airflow. With it gone I have a factory cold air intake. Probably standard in Europe...And this thing has a nice air filter box w/360 degree filter. 5. Stuffed 4" foam into all the rear quarter interior panels for sound deadening. Right thru the access panels. 6. Replaced all interior lights with LED's, 4 in all, I camp a lot and I don't like dead batteries. Pisses me off that the exterior lights stay on when the door is open. Maybe I can reprogram that, or more LEDs At this point I was ready to get adventurous... 7. Removed the rear interior door panels to find they were designed with 3/4" space for sound deadening but there was nothing there. I guess you have to get the Titanium for that. Mine is an XLT so I just stuffed 1" of fiberfill in there and closed it up. Wow what a difference! 8. Ok, now I know, I proceeded to remove the front door panels and rear hatch and stuff them full of foam or something...and now I drive a Titanium. I was thinking about getting the rear badge and sticking it on... 9. Got sticky rubber stair treads and installed them on the rear bumper for accessing the roof. Cut several pieces to fit perfectly, it looks factory. Where did that go Ford? 10. Tinted the front windows to 30% and put a tinted windshield visor down to the AS line that's Lemo black. The AC works much better now. 11. Where the rear seats mount there are two little 1/4" holes near the doors that actually go thru to the outside. I plugged them with sealant. It's quieter and it'll float longer now. 12. Got a cargo carrier for the receiver hitch, I can carry another box of gear without a loss of aerodynamics. Results: 1. You have to close the doors with a little more effort since the air seal is so tight, or crack a window. 2. She is quiet and comfortable at 100 MPH! 3. I have never gotten less than 26 MPG on a tank. I've gotten as high as 30 on a full tank. My miles to empty is up to 427 on a full tank. I have gotten 34.9 for 45 miles in tight fast moving traffic. I can reliably get 32 MPG if I drive 65 and baby it. Next Mods: 1. LED exterior lights 2. Remove a muffler...there is a resonator and a muffler. I hear removing the resonator doesn't make much difference, so maybe I'll remove the muffler and make it load!! I will get 35 MPG before I'm done. 3. Maybe a computer tuner, they have settings for MPG. And maybe I can reprogram those stupid lights... This van is everything I expected and It will only get better. I'll keep you posted..
  2. 5 points
    buckethead

    Removed the Floor Extension Today

    Today I pulled out all the interior pieces in the cargo area of my 2015 Transit Connect cargo van including the floor extension. It was surprisingly easy. There is a lot of room under there. It has me rethinking some things.
  3. 5 points
    Engine off, key in pocket, any rear door open: Push the turn signal switch forward then back. Hear one chirp. This tuns off the outside lights until the next time the car has been locked. The dome lights will still stay on for ten minutes after each time a front door has been closed and opened.
  4. 4 points
    Don Ridley

    Upgraded 2016 speakers

    As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.
  5. 4 points
    MarcusBrody

    TC Wagon camper

    Middle seats back up and front platform packed. We'll use the space inside the flatform (it's framed with 1x4s, so there's a bit of space in there). The platform is rigid, so I'm contemplating adding a set of longer folding legs and letting it double as a pull out table. The folded platform section can be stowed on top of either the front or back half of the rear plaform, so you can access either of the folding sections. One last shot to show that having the plaform in the van has no affect on the functionality of the center row of seats.
  6. 3 points
    CapnTroy

    New 17" Wheels & Tires Are On...

    So, based on reviews that I read as well as advice from my local tire guy, I decided to get Nitto Motivo 225/50/17 tires to go with my new Volvo "Amalthea" rims... The Motivos have a 60,000 mile tread life warranty and have a slightly higher load rating at the same 50psi than the OEM 15" Continentals had, so I didn't have to get the TPMS's re-calibrated either. An added bonus; my speedo has been reading 2 mph too high since I bought the TC (based on data from 2 different GPS units). The first thing that I noticed yesterday after I installed the 17" tires and rims was that my speedo is now agreeing with the GPS's at all speeds. I like the ride with the new tires too; firm and stable.
  7. 3 points
    I added some nice LED lights to the cargo area of my SWB 2016 wagon. The lights have an OEM look and provide just enough light to illuminate the cargo area. The lights are mfg by Brand Motion http://www.brandmotion.com/oem-integration/led-lighting/loftlite-led-interior-lighting-kit.html The total lumens from the 4 lights is probably around 90-100. I tapped into the wiring for the side mounted cargo lights. The lights turn on and off with the doors. They dim as the interior lights turn off like the stock incandescent lamps. Each light has a function where separate power can be wired to the light to turn it on by pushing the center of the lamp. Unfortunately this won't work in the TC because the TC dims the lights and turns them off by raising the negative supply to the lamps from 0 volts to +12 volts. So when the lights are off both leads are at +12V. The "push-on" function won't work because when the lamps are off there is no negative supply to the lamp. This is not a problem for me because I would never be in a position to turn the lights on while I am driving. If you wanted them to be reading lights for passengers it would not work. The installation is relatively easy. You have to carefully pull down the headliner just enough to access the back side and cut 4 holes. The insulation on the headliner has to be shaved away so the bezel can snap onto the lamp (use an xacto knife and cut at a 45 deg angle from the bottom of the hole). You will also need to temporarily wedge something between the front lamp housing and the roof so you can push the bezel on. I cut a short piece of PVC pipe and stuck it on a long rod. You remove the wedge once the unit is snapped into place.
  8. 3 points
    tcconvert

    Interior panels added

    I have added interior panels over the ugly window cutouts. 3mm Alupanel was used and the cavity behind the panel is stuffed with 12 oz. of Polyfil for sound deadening and insulation. The plastic layer in the sheeting also serves as a barrier. The process was somewhat involved and required several steps. Heavy paper patterns were developed first. Next the patterns were transferred to cardboard. Cardboard was cut out and holes were punched, the targets being the three 3/8" threaded holes in the frame. After some further adjustments and a test attach of the template using the actual bolts, the carboard pattern was used to mark out the shape on the Alupanel material. The shape was cut out and the edges filed and sanded smooth. Getting the panels attached to the van walls requires some force. The material must be forced inwards to allow the 1 1/4" bolts to get started in the threaded holes in the walls. This is due to the slight curvature of the van's side walls. Large rubber washers cushion the panels on both the front and back. Before snugging down all bolts 12 oz. of Polyfil were stuffed between the panel and the wall. A long stick was used to push the Polyfil and adjust it into place. A test fit of the panels without the Polyfil revealed that the material does actually deaden sound.
  9. 3 points
    CAGE B8

    MK2 TC (2014 up) COILOVERS completed !

    Well Ladies and Gents.... after getting tired of searching for info from over seas, and/or trying to order a GAZ coilover setup from the UK for my 2015 TrannyVan. After mucho research, parts cross referencing at Ford .... I've ALMOST nailed down the perfect setup... with slight modification of course. Still hunting for that TRUE bolt on rig that requires the LEAST amount of modification, which leads me to this: Was curious if you guys wanted a write up, considering I took TONS of pics and busted quite a few knuckles in the process. The picture upload format for this forum is...um...well... terrible to deal with, but if I get enough interest I'll definitely go through the trouble. Here's a few pics of the finished product attached below (with better shoot coming soon) - Hope you guys dig it EQUIPMENT: MEGAN RACING EZ STREET@ coild over setup 18x9 ROTIFORM VCE Monoblocks on 205/40's
  10. 3 points
    Scratch

    My new center console!

    I’m a visual guy. I’m the guy who asks for a picture menu at McDonalds. I like to see pics on threads too so I’m posting a bunch of pics on this thread. If you don’t like it, hit the back button, cuz I gotta story to tell… I hope you enjoy it. I install security systems during the day, and do metalwork on nights and weekends. I also moonlight as a level 3, super top secret, government spy when I get the time, but since I just said that last one, it’s obvious I’m not a very good one. Anyways, for my install job, I used to drive a full sized van. Now my company decided to get us all Transit Connects. My old van had a sweet center console that I could put file folders in, and had a flip down top that I could as a writing surface. The Connect is.... let's just say, lacking a little in the "room" department... Here’s my temporary solution to the problem. Classy right. It’s not like I’m the only one complaining about this either, there are 9 of us, and my bosses solution was to buy us each one of these: Awesome right. I decided to build one. I have the technology…. (6 million dollar man reference there guys…) I built this out of 14 G steel, probably shoulda went thinner as it’s kind of heavy and I’m concerned about the TC being able to hit 60 miles per hour now, but oh well. On the plus side, I can toss it out the window knowing it has enough mass to stop those pesky black SUV’s that chase me during my black OPS days… shhhhh…. The holes in the side are for ratchet straps to go under the seat. It'll go in the passenger seat since nobody in their right mind will ride with me. In the TC, there’s not a lot of room for things like my calculator and gas card either, so I put these babies on it. I’m not a caveman who stores his ball point pens in his butt cheeks, so I made some hi-tech storage containers for them. In this pic you can also see the “relief cuts” since I don’t have any way to make nice bends in 14G steel yet. I use those a lot on stuff like this. I like my writing surfaces, like I like my women... flat and close to me. So I incorporated a sweet sliding top for it, so I don’t have to reach over that darn shifter. Yeah, I know what you’re thinking “Two separate tops, and ball bearing sliding rails for it, all in 14 gauge steel… that top’s gotta be heavy!” You’re right. My pencil thin arms and weak muscles are no match for it, but I have a big fat head filled with what I assume is Ramen noodles, and brains, so I came up with this: HYDRAULIC ASSIST BABY! That large caevernous area on the right is where the file folders will now sit. I even put a little shelf inside to hold all my stuff like extra pens, business cards, brass knuckles, poison darts, and my lucky rabbits foot. Hey look at that, the pen holder is only held in place with magnets, in case he really doesn’t need any more pens! Someone was using his ramen noodles again….. I hope you enjoyed reading about this, as much as I enjoyed making it, now I'm going to go burn that old cardboard file box, in defiance.
  11. 3 points
    G B L

    Transmission fluid change

    Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
  12. 3 points
    Torton

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!
  13. 3 points
    Fifty150

    Oil

    I suppose the current generation of vehicles have an oil change indicator. When the oil change light comes on, I'll change it then. Ford wants the consumer to use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Everyone seems to have an idea of Which brand of oil to use. Some people think that they know better than the manufacturer when it comes to which weight to Forums like Bob Is The Oil Guy are full of opinions from guys who will actually have their oil sent to a lab for analysis. Then you have all the guys who will cut their oil filters in half to determine which filters are best. I'm using 5W20 because it is the spec weight, and I already have it on subscription by the case from Amazon. 5W20 works in my pickup, as well as my Honda. Amazon had a decent price for Mag1 full synthetic oil in the 6 quart case. Wally World seems to have good prices on Mobil1 in the 5 qt jugs. Of course, you could always go with Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lucas Oil. Pennzoil.........practically every full synthetic will be a decent oil in comparison to conventional oil. Even the Wal*Mart house brand of full synthetic, is still full synthetic oil. I suppose you could go with 0W20, since it is still 20 weight oil, with a 0 winter temperature rating, if you live in a cold weather climate. But don't get creative. No sense in mixing in a quart of 20W50 to thicken it up, or a little diesel oil for good luck. At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel. It used to be that most guys agreed on K&N Filters. Now, Mobil1, Royal Purple, and even aFe are also in the game. If you like Amsoil, they have a filter also. I'm going to use Motorcraft since it is only a couple of dollars, as opposed to between $10 & $20. Hard to use a Wal*Mart filter or Fram, when Motorcraft is only $3.95. You do not have to stick with dealership service if you're still under warranty. Do your own oil change if you enjoy it and it makes you feel better. Get a set of those magnetic sockets. But a Gold Plug and a Filter Mag. Make sure that you have the right filter wrench.
  14. 3 points
  15. 3 points
    Ricky

    WTS: 2nd Row Rear Seats

    Don't know anything else besides that these are seats for a (drumroll), Transit Connect! Located in Houston. I can ship too through UPS ground. Price? No idea. Make an offer!
  16. 3 points
    Transit Connect Guide

    2017 Ordering Guide

    Here's the 2017 Ford Transit Connect Schedule: Order Banks Open: 04-11-16 Scheduling for Building Begins: 05-12-16 JOB1 Start of Production: 07-04-16
  17. 3 points
    I don't have the exact figures of the spring ratings (im sure I will in the next few days), but it rides like pretty much every application specific coil over equipped car I have ridden in that wasn't bottomed all the way out. The way I went about parts cross referencing as well, the application I chose to shop shared the SAMe EXACT part number for Coil springs in the Ford Parts catalog as the Transit Connect LWB Van. I can't delve too far into what application just yet, considering the following: I posted the above pic to the MEGAN FB page and got a response inquiring about the application I used, and I expressed my concerns about improvements/changes that could be made to the rear to basically seal the deal on this being a TRUE "suitable for retail" application to be added to their catalog. For that I want to hold off for a few days on letting out the info. I actually tried contacting the folks at Fortune Auto considering they aren't but a 20 min drive from me, but the person on the other end of the message box either had no clue what I was talking about (doubt it) or didn't want to help me with info thinking I was up to no good,after free stuff, or either assumed I was a "BS'er". I really just wanted to be able to "put hands and eyes on" to measure/eyeball the items before I purchased. I even COMMITTED to buying whatever worked while I was there. Isuppose they didn't want some dude with a VAN coming around to help add to their product line up. I have noticed a lot of folks looking to "lift" ..... I can assure you that this particular set of coil overs in the FRONT will give AT LEAST 2" lift over stock considering how much of the threaded adjustment is left on the shock body when it was set close to "stock" ride height (approx 3.5/4". Not to mention, the pre-threaded aluminum perches leave just over an inch of stud left sticking out of the top of the shock tower. I'm sure that would be good to run a solid strut spacer without an sort of worry about failure. As for the bumper - I did have them painted (came as black), and they actually match perfectly. The reason they look a different shade is that the entire van received a decent wax before adding the painted parts. Tripping to PA/NY/FL over the past 4 months without bathing it has retained dirt better on the non-waxed parts. The van actually spends more sitting in between long runs than anything. it only has 10k on the odo in right at a year of use, but its been to West NC 4 times, FL once, PA twice , NY once, and a few other... really no where that wasn't over an 1:30 one way. I need to clean it lol Here's a few I grabbed today in the rain. Excuse the rake, I raised it up a bit to load a motorcycle and deliver across town, this was on my way out of the drop off.
  18. 3 points
    windguy

    2016 TC Ordering Guide

    There doesn't appear to be too many changes for the 2016 model year so pretty much the same as 2014 and 2015. See the first page for "New for 2016 MY" I like this addition as a safety feature "Blind Spot Information System (BLIS®) with Cross-traffic Alert is now available for XLT Wagon and Titanium Wagon". Too bad it's not offered on the cargo version too. 2016 Transit Connect Order Guide.pdf
  19. 3 points
    DonShockley

    Remove rear seats from the wagon

    When I was researching my 2015 TC purchase I saw mention of removable seats in the online manual. After I ended up buying a LWB wagon, I was surprised when I saw no way to just pop out the seats. It turns out only the short wheel base 5 passenger version has the removable 2nd row seats. However, I decided to remove the seats in my wagon anyway to install the seat covers. Each seat is held in with four T50 bolts and only takes a few minutes to remove. The 3rd row seats have the bolts at each corner of the seat frame and you do need to slide the seat forward and back to access each set of two. The second row seats have pairs of bolts at the front end of each seat rail. These are easy to access with the seat unfolded. Once the bolts are removed it does take a little lifting and wiggling to break the seats loose because there are also locating posts on the bottom of the rails that fit into holes in the floor. But once these are popped out, the seats just lift out. With just myself, the wider part of the 2nd row was a bit heavy but the others were no problem. It is easier to lift out the 2nd row if you fold them flat after unbolting. In the end, I liked the extra space available with the seats out so decided to leave it that way since I rarely have more than one passenger. I've been slowly working on modifications over the last couple weeks making a flat load floor for the area and using the extra space for storage. I probably need to do a write up with photos to share the info.
  20. 3 points
    scottythe1nonly

    New Wheels

    couldn't get the Momo Revenge. So I got the WIN 2 instead.
  21. 3 points
    Hello carlb28. I checked the wiring diagram I posted on another topic. Not that you need confirmation, but the rear cabin lighting is on a independent circuit from the front cabin and yes, the taxi package has a switch from the drivers position to control the rear cabin lighting.
  22. 3 points
    2013TransitConnect

    The Gas Mileage Thread

    Yes I did get a good deal on one. That was the reason I got the 13 instead of the 14 but I also like the looks of the 13 better.
  23. 3 points
    zepper

    Volvo Wheels

    We all know volvo as Ford's safety conscious division but it turns out they have an extrodinary selection of wheels for their cars--most of which will fit the transit. The good things about using the OEM wheels are: they are generally high quality, made to stringent safety standards, available CHEAP from Volvo guys that are upgrading. I got mine for $400 SHIPPED with 3,000 mile old tires. The tires are high quality all season Michelins that are rated for the same load and PSI as the transits' OEM tires despite the lower profile. MUCH quieter too. These are 17" X 7" and the center bore was a perfect fit. Plenty of offset to clear the brakes. Watch fleabay and Swedespeed.com --marketplace--classifieds. The swedespeed forum even has an informative post with many pictures of OEM volvo wheels and their sizes/part numbers/names etc.
  24. 3 points
    As Azdamay said, it is usually possible to display various information in the instrument cluster. Here is how it is done on my 2010 Transit Connect. Press and hold the trip odometer reset button (the one on the left of the LCD readout) and turn the ignition switch to the start position. Release the reset button when the LCD readout says tESt (takes about 5 seconds). The first display is gAgE (it tests all the gauges). Then press the reset button 23 times to get to the average fuel economy (display will read rAFEand your mileage).Mine reads 28 which is what I get when I figure it out myself. There are 26 different displays,a few are, trouble codes(press 8 times), engine temp (press 19 times), battery voltage (press 21 times). To exit the display mode, just turn off the ignition. I have not found a way to keep any of the displays working when the Transit Connect is running.
  25. 2 points
    Here are some ideas from the UK Ford Transit Forum web site...... Re: Manually changing the direction of the heat blower??by markspark71 » Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:19 pm if you take off the heater direction blower knob you can put it direct on the side of the heater box and turn the direction from there, set it to what you want then replace the knob back in the dash, this will only work if its the cables that are at fault mine has a problem with the heater box the flaps dont move even whe all is disconnected Re: Manually changing the direction of the heat blower??by markspark71 » Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:47 pm on the side of the heater box (drivers foot well ) you will see 2 blocks a white one and a black one each has 2 cables on it the white one is the one that moves the air direction the black one does the hot - cold setting. The air direction knob can be removed from the dash and placed direct on the heater box, is this dont work remove the white plastic block with the 2 cables going to it its held on with 3 clips now place the know on the side of the heater box and try to move again if that dont work you will have to unscrew the plate on the side of the heater box and find out which of the 2 levers is stuck hope this helps
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