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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2011 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Just got this information from the Service Manager where I purchased my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van: --------------------------------- SSM 46321 - 2014-2017 Transit Connect - Battery Drain Due to Frequent Door Openings and Approach Light Strategy Some 2014-2017 Transit Connect vehicles may exhibit a condition that causes the battery to discharge. If normal battery drain diagnosis leads to no issues, it may be caused by the approach lights illuminating every time the body control module (BCM) receives a lock/unlock signal or opening any door. If the door remains open, the lights will remain illuminated for up to 10 minutes. If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. Use causal part 14A068 and applicable labor operations in section 10 of the SLTS manual. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2014 - 2017 CAR: HC V408 (EU) --------------------------------- The fix was done at no cost, under my warranty. Hope this helps!
  2. 6 points
    bahavw

    Mods so far...

    I have a 2015 TC ecoboost SWB wagon. I started modifying as soon as I got home. This lit will help me remember it all. And maybe Ford will listen too. Of course there are those damn US regulations. 1. Removed the cross bars for gas milage. 2. Pulled the rear bench seat to storage > 100# lost 3. Installed removable rubber floor mats in the cargo area for dirt and sound deadening 4. Removed the intake muffler in front of the radiator, it makes it quiet but restricts airflow. With it gone I have a factory cold air intake. Probably standard in Europe...And this thing has a nice air filter box w/360 degree filter. 5. Stuffed 4" foam into all the rear quarter interior panels for sound deadening. Right thru the access panels. 6. Replaced all interior lights with LED's, 4 in all, I camp a lot and I don't like dead batteries. Pisses me off that the exterior lights stay on when the door is open. Maybe I can reprogram that, or more LEDs At this point I was ready to get adventurous... 7. Removed the rear interior door panels to find they were designed with 3/4" space for sound deadening but there was nothing there. I guess you have to get the Titanium for that. Mine is an XLT so I just stuffed 1" of fiberfill in there and closed it up. Wow what a difference! 8. Ok, now I know, I proceeded to remove the front door panels and rear hatch and stuff them full of foam or something...and now I drive a Titanium. I was thinking about getting the rear badge and sticking it on... 9. Got sticky rubber stair treads and installed them on the rear bumper for accessing the roof. Cut several pieces to fit perfectly, it looks factory. Where did that go Ford? 10. Tinted the front windows to 30% and put a tinted windshield visor down to the AS line that's Lemo black. The AC works much better now. 11. Where the rear seats mount there are two little 1/4" holes near the doors that actually go thru to the outside. I plugged them with sealant. It's quieter and it'll float longer now. 12. Got a cargo carrier for the receiver hitch, I can carry another box of gear without a loss of aerodynamics. Results: 1. You have to close the doors with a little more effort since the air seal is so tight, or crack a window. 2. She is quiet and comfortable at 100 MPH! 3. I have never gotten less than 26 MPG on a tank. I've gotten as high as 30 on a full tank. My miles to empty is up to 427 on a full tank. I have gotten 34.9 for 45 miles in tight fast moving traffic. I can reliably get 32 MPG if I drive 65 and baby it. Next Mods: 1. LED exterior lights 2. Remove a muffler...there is a resonator and a muffler. I hear removing the resonator doesn't make much difference, so maybe I'll remove the muffler and make it load!! I will get 35 MPG before I'm done. 3. Maybe a computer tuner, they have settings for MPG. And maybe I can reprogram those stupid lights... This van is everything I expected and It will only get better. I'll keep you posted..
  3. 5 points
    I went to my local dealer today with the intent of making sure they can perform this SSM under my 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty and to give them a heads up if they want prepare with any downloads they need to perform to minimize the amount of time they will need my van in service. I gave the service advisor the attached doc below, he read it, and said they will do this under warranty if I'm having a battery issue. He gave me back the piece of paper, said this type of service is done by their 'electrical tech' and they will need the van for a few days, so make an appointment when I'm ready. Two days? Attitude aside, I'm glad they are willing to make this fix under warranty, I hope. Chapter two to follow. Stand by. SSM 46321 Dark mode.pdf
  4. 5 points
    buckethead

    Removed the Floor Extension Today

    Today I pulled out all the interior pieces in the cargo area of my 2015 Transit Connect cargo van including the floor extension. It was surprisingly easy. There is a lot of room under there. It has me rethinking some things.
  5. 5 points
    Torton

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!
  6. 5 points
    Engine off, key in pocket, any rear door open: Push the turn signal switch forward then back. Hear one chirp. This tuns off the outside lights until the next time the car has been locked. The dome lights will still stay on for ten minutes after each time a front door has been closed and opened.
  7. 5 points
    MarcusBrody

    TC Wagon camper

    Middle seats back up and front platform packed. We'll use the space inside the flatform (it's framed with 1x4s, so there's a bit of space in there). The platform is rigid, so I'm contemplating adding a set of longer folding legs and letting it double as a pull out table. The folded platform section can be stowed on top of either the front or back half of the rear plaform, so you can access either of the folding sections. One last shot to show that having the plaform in the van has no affect on the functionality of the center row of seats.
  8. 4 points
    As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts. The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20. You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one .https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300 Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle. It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs. Remove the small panel behind the door latch Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal. The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look. ***see diagram below*** Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection. The switch is wired to the door module. Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted. Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire. Another view of the cut wiring I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future). These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape. https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light). You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.
  9. 4 points
    Don Ridley

    Upgraded 2016 speakers

    As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.
  10. 4 points
    mrtn

    Van wrapping fails, again

    Some of it are already well known bloopers, updated: https://www.sadanduseless.com/2018/01/car-ad-failures/ (this here is Finnish, clearly meant to be "REKKAPESU" (truck wash).
  11. 4 points
    Fifty150

    Winter Tire Thread

    They don't make earthquake tire.
  12. 4 points
    I complained about the entry illumination to my dealer, and expressed my concern that it would drain the battery on my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van, since it is being converted to a weekend camper. The service tech hooked up their Integrated Diagnostic System computer to the vehicle's On-board Diagnostic port and scrolled through the Body Control Module menus, but couldn't find any way to shorten or turn off the unwelcome 10-minute "Welcome Lighting." So, I spoke with the dealership's service director, who went online and looked through Ford's technical bulletins for customer complaints about battery drain caused by the long open-door lighting delay. Sure enough, Ford had come out with a firmware update for the TC's Body Control Module. Once my vehicle's module had been updated with the new firmware, the tech was able to access the menu to turn off the lighting. The software update and programming change was covered under my warranty. Now that I am finally in "Dark Mode" I am a happy camper. Moral of the story: Keep complaining until you get results. Let us know how you fare with your dealer.
  13. 4 points
    G B L

    Transmission fluid change

    Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!
  14. 4 points
    CAGE B8

    MK2 TC (2014 up) COILOVERS completed !

    I don't have the exact figures of the spring ratings (im sure I will in the next few days), but it rides like pretty much every application specific coil over equipped car I have ridden in that wasn't bottomed all the way out. The way I went about parts cross referencing as well, the application I chose to shop shared the SAMe EXACT part number for Coil springs in the Ford Parts catalog as the Transit Connect LWB Van. I can't delve too far into what application just yet, considering the following: I posted the above pic to the MEGAN FB page and got a response inquiring about the application I used, and I expressed my concerns about improvements/changes that could be made to the rear to basically seal the deal on this being a TRUE "suitable for retail" application to be added to their catalog. For that I want to hold off for a few days on letting out the info. I actually tried contacting the folks at Fortune Auto considering they aren't but a 20 min drive from me, but the person on the other end of the message box either had no clue what I was talking about (doubt it) or didn't want to help me with info thinking I was up to no good,after free stuff, or either assumed I was a "BS'er". I really just wanted to be able to "put hands and eyes on" to measure/eyeball the items before I purchased. I even COMMITTED to buying whatever worked while I was there. Isuppose they didn't want some dude with a VAN coming around to help add to their product line up. I have noticed a lot of folks looking to "lift" ..... I can assure you that this particular set of coil overs in the FRONT will give AT LEAST 2" lift over stock considering how much of the threaded adjustment is left on the shock body when it was set close to "stock" ride height (approx 3.5/4". Not to mention, the pre-threaded aluminum perches leave just over an inch of stud left sticking out of the top of the shock tower. I'm sure that would be good to run a solid strut spacer without an sort of worry about failure. As for the bumper - I did have them painted (came as black), and they actually match perfectly. The reason they look a different shade is that the entire van received a decent wax before adding the painted parts. Tripping to PA/NY/FL over the past 4 months without bathing it has retained dirt better on the non-waxed parts. The van actually spends more sitting in between long runs than anything. it only has 10k on the odo in right at a year of use, but its been to West NC 4 times, FL once, PA twice , NY once, and a few other... really no where that wasn't over an 1:30 one way. I need to clean it lol Here's a few I grabbed today in the rain. Excuse the rake, I raised it up a bit to load a motorcycle and deliver across town, this was on my way out of the drop off.
  15. 4 points
    DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    Here's a couple extras! The first is a drawing with all the measurements for the single piece plywood deck I built. And these measurements were corrected to fix the errors I described earlier. Naturally these were for my vehicle so there's no guarantee they'll match yours if you want to try this build. But it should be close if you have a LWB Wagon. The second is a quick diagram and explanation I had for some alternate ways of doing the job that occurred to me during the build. My initial thought was for a smooth, strong and flat floor from a single continuous sheet. But you can get a bit more coverage, 57" wide at the doors instead of 48" wide, if you are willing to have a cut joint in the middle of your floor. It was also starting to become a pain every time I had to install and remove the single panel for the numerous trials and modifications. A narrower folding floor, 26" wide when folded with hinges, can be made in 3 pieces to make frequent installation and removal much easier. Unfortunately, it will also require a second (half) sheet of plywood. I tried and just couldn't seem to get all 3 pieces to pattern onto a single 4x8 sheet if you want the full 57" width at the doors. They are in PDF format for most universal viewing. That's part of the reason for the delay in posting this thread. It took a week to try to learn the DraftSight program well enough to produce a useful drawing. Transit Connect Floor Alternate Ideas.pdf Transit Connect Floor Dimensioned.pdf But if you want the CAD drawings I generated for these, PM me an email address to send them to. I tried to upload the .dwg files but the forum wouldn't allow it. Update: Found an error in the files orignally posted. Fixed the error and posted new corrected files.
  16. 3 points
    chong

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    Had the day off Friday so I decided it was time to add heated seats to my Van. This isn't my first rodeo with adding heated seats to a car that didn't come with them from the factory. The first step was to yank the seats: Having an elevated work area makes things go a bit faster: Disassemble, add the heating element, reassemble: We pulled the center console and mounted up the switches: Wired everything up to switched power and we're off to the races: No more cold butts!
  17. 3 points
    I added some nice LED lights to the cargo area of my SWB 2016 wagon. The lights have an OEM look and provide just enough light to illuminate the cargo area. The lights are mfg by Brand Motion http://www.brandmotion.com/oem-integration/led-lighting/loftlite-led-interior-lighting-kit.html The total lumens from the 4 lights is probably around 90-100. I tapped into the wiring for the side mounted cargo lights. The lights turn on and off with the doors. They dim as the interior lights turn off like the stock incandescent lamps. Each light has a function where separate power can be wired to the light to turn it on by pushing the center of the lamp. Unfortunately this won't work in the TC because the TC dims the lights and turns them off by raising the negative supply to the lamps from 0 volts to +12 volts. So when the lights are off both leads are at +12V. The "push-on" function won't work because when the lamps are off there is no negative supply to the lamp. This is not a problem for me because I would never be in a position to turn the lights on while I am driving. If you wanted them to be reading lights for passengers it would not work. The installation is relatively easy. You have to carefully pull down the headliner just enough to access the back side and cut 4 holes. The insulation on the headliner has to be shaved away so the bezel can snap onto the lamp (use an xacto knife and cut at a 45 deg angle from the bottom of the hole). You will also need to temporarily wedge something between the front lamp housing and the roof so you can push the bezel on. I cut a short piece of PVC pipe and stuck it on a long rod. You remove the wedge once the unit is snapped into place.
  18. 3 points
    tcconvert

    Interior panels added

    I have added interior panels over the ugly window cutouts. 3mm Alupanel was used and the cavity behind the panel is stuffed with 12 oz. of Polyfil for sound deadening and insulation. The plastic layer in the sheeting also serves as a barrier. The process was somewhat involved and required several steps. Heavy paper patterns were developed first. Next the patterns were transferred to cardboard. Cardboard was cut out and holes were punched, the targets being the three 3/8" threaded holes in the frame. After some further adjustments and a test attach of the template using the actual bolts, the carboard pattern was used to mark out the shape on the Alupanel material. The shape was cut out and the edges filed and sanded smooth. Getting the panels attached to the van walls requires some force. The material must be forced inwards to allow the 1 1/4" bolts to get started in the threaded holes in the walls. This is due to the slight curvature of the van's side walls. Large rubber washers cushion the panels on both the front and back. Before snugging down all bolts 12 oz. of Polyfil were stuffed between the panel and the wall. A long stick was used to push the Polyfil and adjust it into place. A test fit of the panels without the Polyfil revealed that the material does actually deaden sound.
  19. 3 points
    dotmaster206

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Got a sweet update today - the ST motor is in the van. It bolted right up with no complications. The clutch lines are hooked up as well, but that's all for now. Big milestone!
  20. 3 points
    Got the Laminate Planks in,,,the silver colored oak was a special order item,,,fawn looked good enough, plus it will match the beagles fur when they shed LOL. stuff is super easy to work with,,,I used my trusty knockout set to punch the access holes to the floor bolts. The Tie downs hold the entire floor securely in place, so no tape, glue or velcro needed! I hope this floor lasts a while,,,if not, it will come back out!
  21. 3 points
    I just got these tires today and some 16 inch steel wheels. BFG K02 215/65r 16 Tirerack.com has the wheels on close out for $40 right now. The front tires rub slightly at full lock when turning but it's no big deal to me. I trimmed a very small portion of the rear felt on the wells cause they rubbed on bumps. Like a very small 1 inch trim.
  22. 3 points
    DonShockley

    Remove rear seats from the wagon

    When I was researching my 2015 TC purchase I saw mention of removable seats in the online manual. After I ended up buying a LWB wagon, I was surprised when I saw no way to just pop out the seats. It turns out only the short wheel base 5 passenger version has the removable 2nd row seats. However, I decided to remove the seats in my wagon anyway to install the seat covers. Each seat is held in with four T50 bolts and only takes a few minutes to remove. The 3rd row seats have the bolts at each corner of the seat frame and you do need to slide the seat forward and back to access each set of two. The second row seats have pairs of bolts at the front end of each seat rail. These are easy to access with the seat unfolded. Once the bolts are removed it does take a little lifting and wiggling to break the seats loose because there are also locating posts on the bottom of the rails that fit into holes in the floor. But once these are popped out, the seats just lift out. With just myself, the wider part of the 2nd row was a bit heavy but the others were no problem. It is easier to lift out the 2nd row if you fold them flat after unbolting. In the end, I liked the extra space available with the seats out so decided to leave it that way since I rarely have more than one passenger. I've been slowly working on modifications over the last couple weeks making a flat load floor for the area and using the extra space for storage. I probably need to do a write up with photos to share the info.
  23. 3 points
    mustang

    OEM Trailer Hitch - Gen 2 TC

    the factory hitch is a class II and is 2 inch receiver and when ordered from the factory comes with electronic anti sway control .
  24. 3 points
    Hello carlb28. I checked the wiring diagram I posted on another topic. Not that you need confirmation, but the rear cabin lighting is on a independent circuit from the front cabin and yes, the taxi package has a switch from the drivers position to control the rear cabin lighting.
  25. 3 points
    As Azdamay said, it is usually possible to display various information in the instrument cluster. Here is how it is done on my 2010 Transit Connect. Press and hold the trip odometer reset button (the one on the left of the LCD readout) and turn the ignition switch to the start position. Release the reset button when the LCD readout says tESt (takes about 5 seconds). The first display is gAgE (it tests all the gauges). Then press the reset button 23 times to get to the average fuel economy (display will read rAFEand your mileage).Mine reads 28 which is what I get when I figure it out myself. There are 26 different displays,a few are, trouble codes(press 8 times), engine temp (press 19 times), battery voltage (press 21 times). To exit the display mode, just turn off the ignition. I have not found a way to keep any of the displays working when the Transit Connect is running.
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