Jump to content

B0NE

T.C. Member
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

B0NE last won the day on August 7

B0NE had the most liked content!

About B0NE

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • My. T.C.'s Year
    2018

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. @windguy Nice work! What kind of deadening/insulation is that?
  2. At first when I was getting ready to cut the supports, I just visualized what needed to stay and what didn't. I wanted to use as much of the existing hardware as possible and not take away the structural support. It was a little nerve wracking to be cutting things out of a new vehicle lol. Once I was sure, I used chalk to mark my lines and used a sawzall with a metal cutting blade. Once all the metal was cut, I put it back in place and put cardboard over top and carefully marked and cut it to shape. Folded it half and traced the other side which gave me a perfect match on both sides. I put the cardboard back on top, poked holes for where I wanted the bolts to go through and hand tightened them down to make sure it was a perfect template. Took it all apart and traced it onto 3/4 inch ply. I used a circular saw and jigsaw with the capability of angling the blade on a 45 to cut it out. I wanted to take the edge off the ply to make it a smoother transition from foam to wood once I placed the mat back down over top. Cutting the foam from under the mat was a pain, I used some black craft paint on the wood and pressed the mat with foam down on top. That gave me a rough idea of where to cut the foam. Slowly but surely, I kept taking bits of foam away until it fit smoothly over top. Measure twice, cut once. I can say now, that it was so worth the extra effort and money. I went on an extended roadtrip this summer and I was able to hide all kinds of stuff in there. It's amazing how much space is wasted in that area. I should mention that there is even more space to be had under the front seats. There's styrofoam inserts under there about 3 inches thick (once you pull the extension floor out, you can see what I mean). I decided to leave them in there for two reasons. One, insulation and road noise. Two, if you pull them out, the mats won't sit down in that space correctly without cutting them, so I let it be.
  3. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NA9UDC This is the hatch I used, a bit pricey, but it has held up well so far. Many different sizes to choose from.
  4. I then slapped the mat back down and cut out the rubber around the hatch cutout. Dropped in the hatch, popped in the step trim, and screwed down my cargo tie downs. Finished product, thanks for looking at my creation, feel free to ask about anything I might have left out!
  5. I crafted this out of 3/4 inch plywood which is the support for the hatch and ties everything together. I then bolted everything down and to make up for the 3/4 inch plywood height above the existing floor, I cut out the foam under the mat which just so happens to be 3/4 inch thick to exactly match this piece.
  6. I finally decided to tackle this project after taking some time to research and think about how I was going to go about it. Just like a lot of other people, I REALLY wanted access to that extra space below that floor and I can tell you now, it was totally worth the effort and money. I can fit all kinds of stuff in there and the hatch is concealed to any would be robbers under my mattress. I've been outfitting my van geared towards a roadtripper style with simplicity and low weight in mind. No built in platforms, kitchens, or other comforts, as I like space in the back when I am relaxing on the road, so this extra room created without taking away space, was invaluable. Here are the photos I took as the project went along. Starting with the floor and front support already removed. The concept here was to be able to use some existing bolts and threads to tie everything together. I cut the center support out but left the posts. Sawzall with a metal cutting blade worked well. I cut and shaped the sides of the cargo floor out to form the bridge to the posts. Also cut and shaped the front support, then reinstalled as shown.
  7. B0NE

    Euro Upper Rear Lights?

    The part numbers of the reflectors DARKV8DR is looking for are DT1Z-13404-A (Right Upper) & DT1Z-13405-A (Left Upper).
×