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KevinRollin

T.C. Member
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KevinRollin last won the day on February 11

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About KevinRollin

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    New Member

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  • Region
    U.S. Northeast
  • My. T.C.'s Year
    2018

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  1. Vintage Technologies sells many different clamp rings. They can help you calculate the right one based on your insulation. I just went with one that would accommodate the plastic panel, because I don’t envision insulating the upper doors.
  2. KevinRollin

    Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

    Glad it worked out for you! My seat doesn’t adjust up/down at all, so 2” worked for me. If I had the height-adjustable version, 1.25” might be the way to go, but you’re right about the adjustable seats coming forward as they go up - I saw that in other trims that I test drove.
  3. There were 5 crudely-done holes in the left-rear cargo area, installed by the original owner to hold down some mystery piece of equipment. Basically looks like they drilled tiny pilot holes through the rubber mat and the metal floor, then anchored the device with four big lag screws. I don't need any of the holes, and while I considered installing threaded plus it’s, my bigger concern was rust and water intrusion. I peeled back the mat and dug all the metal shard from the drilling out of the foam. Then ground down the bent metal with a Dremel and sanding drum. A little black paint & primer, then some of the caulk leftover from the window project.
  4. Reflectix for Windows and nothing else in a vehicle! jrm223 explains why Im going to do a single layer of the black Noico on all exposed roof skin inside the van. It will be sound dampening, insulation, and ceiling in one; so worth the weight penalty. Remaining bits of Noico will get slapped on the inside of the exposed body panels, and those readily accessible behind the interior plastic and particleboard.
  5. Hi, Troy, I removed my driver seat so I could raise it up, and surveyed the passenger seat as well. It looks fairly easily removable. Four T50 Torx bolts in the seat rails, and the airbag and seatbelt warning wires (be gentle with the plugs for those). My 2018 Cargo has a fold-down front passenger seat. Is that no longer a feature in the 2020 models?
  6. Thanks! I hope some other forum users enjoy it and find it useful. Mine is definitely a metal tent! I did tons of research into van builds, including insulation. It’s a small space, and windows take up a lot of that. I now have a window in every panel, which makes it tough to insulate those portions. Below belt level, there is a lot of plastic trim, which provides some insulating value. I did order 36sq ft of Noico black butyl noise dampening that is going to go first in the ceiling in the back. Right now it’s bare steel. Leftovers from that will go on panels around the windows. I also have four panels of plastic-encased denim that I got free, and I’ll put those behind the plastic panels in the cargo area. If it starts to absorb moisture, I’ll toss it. I have some more photos that I’ll post soon.
  7. KevinRollin

    Camper system for sale

    Would love to see photos of the setup when you have access to it again. Maybe a post detailing how you designed & built it. Good luck with the sale!
  8. Realized that if I didn’t offset the top, I could make it reversible in case I wanted to swap it to the passenger side. Got all all of my Kreg Jig holes drilled, holes for the tiedown bolts, corners quarter-rounded, and the ends installed on the bottom plywood. Later this week I’ll finish installing the screws.
  9. Finally got around to working on a sleeping platform. I’m doing a half-width bed, with about 12” of space underneath. Should hold four milk crates and three folding totes, or some combination of those. 75” long, but offset to allow for as much bed as possible behind the fully-rearward driver seat, but still use the forward tiedown bolt as an anchor. (Rear of van) (Front of van)
  10. Haha, make them work for it!
  11. Anyone do this? Something similar to the existing hatches to the rear of the wheel wells, but forward of the rear wheels. Seems like there is wasted space in there. Maybe for something like a small tool bag, tiedowns, etc. maybe paint one one of these self-adhesive access panels:
  12. KevinRollin

    Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

    1.25”: These bolts should leave the same thread engagement as OEM with a 1.25” spacer.
  13. KevinRollin

    Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

    I can see your point about 2” being too much. There’s a 1.25” option using similar hardware and spacers. I’ll post it later.
  14. KevinRollin

    Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

    Which bolt? The seat bolts? About an inch. A little over an inch. Threaded portion IIRC was slightly less than an inch. I could measure tomorrow maybe. Do you have something in mind for the stock bolts?
  15. KevinRollin

    Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

    Imade the mistake of trying to use a pair each of 2” diameter and 3” diameter blocks. I was thinking more surface area would be more structurally sound, but they don’t really fit. Don’t do that! A 3” block fits in the rear outboard position, but the floor underneath that one isn’t really contacting much more than 2” of it anyway. The front brackets need to be notched out for 3” to fit, and then they don’t sit flush on the body metal because of the vinyl flooring. 2” all around fit easily.
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