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The easy part would be to swap the unit. In older cars, it was fairly easy to buy a new control module and install it. Unplug, unbolt, bot, and plug back in. But if you have to load firmware and/or software, or program, that is not so easy. I haven't tried it myself. But I suspect it's not as easy as saving your vehicle profile with FORScan, then reloading it. This does not sound like such an easy DIY job. But there are independent shops who can do it. The only reason that most shops can't is because they have not invested into the computer hardware, software, and training. Just about anything a dealership tech can do, a small shop should be able to do. Or you can order the IDS system yourself, and try to do it at home. -
I guess you will have to fabricate that yourself. I haven't seen a radio delete kit with a dashboard cubby hole.
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By Don Ridley · Posted
There are several main computer modules. The Body Control Module BCM and Power Control Module are the main ones. You must load any module with firmware and a configuration file specific to your VIN. Your only hope to avoid the dealer is to find a used module from a vehicle that is virtually identical. But there is a possibility this may not work either. -
By bocephus205 · Posted
yea no Issues, it was a really tight fit after the modifications -
By OLDSCHOOLFOOL · Posted
"and would much rather have some cubby storage instead." Quite possibly a better use of the space. -
By OLDSCHOOLFOOL · Posted
Wish my 2016 did. Radio these days absolutely sucks. Who the hell listens to AM radio anyway? I was trying to imagine what sort of person that was. I ran an MP3 player through the aux connection but it kept breaking. -
By OLDSCHOOLFOOL · Posted
Yes, I get what you did. I was a little confused at first, thinking you were placing them between the wheel and hub, which did not make too much sense to me. With the rim of the cap flared out.....have they all stayed in place? -
The same thing happened to my 2014 Transit Connect. Everything went to zero, worked fine until I tried to turn it on. It’s cheaper for me to throw a new ECU in then to take it to the dealer. Are the ECU’s coded to the key fob and ignition cylinder? Or can I throw in another ECU and not have to do any coding.
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