Van engine light and limp mode happens until you get to 70 degrees roughly and turn the key on and off and it will run perfect. Wait until the next day when it's cold again and then the problem re-appears. Live data has been compared to another van and it is all similar. It's a very strange fault considering the turbo and sensors are completely new, turbo pressure converter and all vaccum pipes have been checked for leaks. EGR valve has been replaced also
Really not hard at all. Panel pops off easily, be gentle as the clips holding it on do break easily. But they’re cheap to replace. Then there’s a layer of vinyl with foam backing to peel off. I used a heat gun set very low and aimed from a distance to just barely melt the adhesive in one spot, then the rest of the edge peeled off fine. You’ll then have to remove a block of sound dampening foam glued to the inside. Once that’s gone, pull the manual locking knob out, remove 3 screws holding in the lock assembly, and it comes completely free. The rest is pretty straightforward. And putting everything back is easy as well. I used a hot glue gun for replacing the foam block and parts of the vinyl cover.
This is an old thread, but I noticed when I was exploring the same issue I was having, that it had dead ended.
My driver side sliding door was locking fine, but when hitting the power unlock, it rarely unlocked. And I would have to reach back and turn the mechanical knob to unlock. Whenever it did unlock itself, it was completely by luck.
I’ve been going back and forth the past week to a ‘12 TC sitting in a local Pick n Pull. Suddenly remembered, oh yeah, I should do something about my door’s power lock issue. Went to the yard today and just pulled the entire locking assembly. Opened up the panel to my van’s door, plugged it in, and it worked flawlessly. So I made the switch later today and I have a functioning power door lock again.
Here were my findings. Everything seems to hinge on the actuator physically tripping the mechanical lock (where the manual knob inserts) in order to unlock. If that mechanical knob is not completely flush to the wall, turning to completion, THEN the lock automatically returns and resets to the locked position.
Looks like the “3 eared retainer” holding the manual/mechanical lock to the wall of the assembly’s housing had broken off, so it sunk in, got catty whampas, and just wasn’t able to achieve full range of motion to actuate the door lock to the unlock position completely. So in reality, I could have just bought this piece, disassembled and replaced the part. But I looked at half a dozen exploded diagrams and could not find a part number or description that matched it. In the end, just doing the whole assembly was the quickest and less time consuming solution. Also, what a horrible retainer design for a part that rotates!