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I’m trying to remove my factory installed hitch... I’ve removed all bolts, see no spot welds... it’s as if it’s stuck on with super glue or something.  What am I missing ???  Class II hitch on a LWB Titaniam model.  Do I have to remove the rear bumper ?  I don’t see anything connecting the hitch and bumper.  Appreciate any feedback    thx, Tom

Well, I just got the front LED turn bulbs like 10 minutes ago, ordered on Nov 2nd. I ended up putting the driver side in first and it was no problem, then the passenger side was being a PITA just like when I originally tried to put in the barrel LED bulbs that I commented about yesterday. Turns out that I had the holder clocked about 90* out-of-phase and just had to turn it to the right position, lol. That said, maybe the amber barrel LED's actually would fit just fine, but they're at home now & I kinda destroyed the one I tried to put in last time, anyway... When I had tried to put it in, the holder is what was getting hung-up, not the bulb itself - because I was trying to put it in the same position as today, oops.   Here's the pics, since they're worth 1000 words, etc etc. Oh yea, the base of the LED bulb has a small notch that lines up with a tab inside the holder, so you can't really put these ones in backwards. They also have a set-screw so that you can turn the LED half if it's not aiming at 3/9-o'clock positions when you install in the housing, but mine were already perfect when I just put them in.   

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I already have hyper-flash from the rear turn signals, haven't got around to buying resistors for them. Since it's impossible to use in-line resistors on the front, I'm thinking I should eventually order a pair for the back that is enough to fix front & rear together. I can't imagine that the front bulbs use all that much amperage, so it shouldn't take a whole lot of resistance on the back to 'balance' the load to above hyper-flash levels.   For the low beams, I'm running these white & yellow switchback bulbs and love them. When I first turn on the lights, they're white - I can shut them off for a second and turn back on, they switch to yellow. Then repeat to switchback to white, again. Most people would just run yellow in the fog lights, but I have an XL without fogs and I prefer running yellow headlights when needed. So when I found these bulbs, I was like "hell yeah, best of both worlds!!" haha. Here's a video of them operating from another purchaser on Amazon   I still need to switch the high beam bulbs to LED, but I'll probably just go with straight white bulbs for that. 

Got it. Very slick design. Can't wait to see it all setup. Does your helper work by the hour, job or in trade for room and board? You're a cool dad for letting him work (play) with you. Keep up the good work.   BTW - that's a sharp looking van color.

You got that van for a steal! Even with the travel expenses factored in. Good find for sure. I like the dimpled look. Gives the van some street cred.

Did you go from New York to Connecticut, which is only about 100 miles?  Or New York to Colorado, which is a little over 1800 miles?       Tully,   My ex used to get all of these coupons, go shopping, then come home to tell me how she got a dress, top, shoes, bags........and saved 25%.  I stayed home, didn't buy a dress, top, shoes, bags......and saved 100%   5150

LED drop in lamp technology has changed by leaps & bounds.  Even within the last few years.  When I bought the Transit Connect in 2016, the latest technology was to use LED on 4 sides to mimic the 360 degree lighting of the OEM halogen.  In theory, you will have an equal amount of useable lighting, bouncing off every part of the reflector.  As we speak 2 years down the road, that seller is no longer in the business of selling LED lamps.     Look for some kind of warranty.  Just be aware that the warranty is useless when the company is out of business.   In today's market, what you want to look for is an adjustable beam.  See the fastener near the red gasket?  You can loosen it, and turn the chips to aim them, then tighten the screw once the are in the correct position.  Ideally, the LED chips are facing sideways, in the 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock positions.  Notice that the photo also shows a cooling fan at the base, and an inline LED driver.  You want both of those features.  Some do not have a cooling fan.  The driver, like a ballast, is essential to regulate the amount of electricity so that you do not have a fire!  Some models have no such safety device.  I do not have this brand, do not know if it is good, and am not endorsing the product.  This was just the first image that I found with all of the desired features.     There are only a handful of factories in Shenzhen, China which produce LED lighting.  From those factories, come hundreds of brands sold in stores, and online.  Some claim to be US companies, and they probably are.  But look carefully.  It will be a US based company, with manufacturing overseas.  I know of a local company which claims Made In U.S.A.  They get all components manufactured in China, shipped to U.S.A.  for final assembly.  Some "companies" are just a handful of people in an office in U.S.A., with drop shipping from the factory in China.  It could even be 1 person, living the U.S.A. and working out of their home, with fulfillment by Amazon......which I have seen locally.         What kind of adhesive did you use for mounting off road lights?  I am curious as to how well the adhesive holds up to dissimilar substrate,  heat, road conditions, et cetera.   Start a new post to show off your camera installation.