MLB

Uh oh, facts. That could be a problem here.

Hmmm, I think the jack pushing UP on the bolts WITH the hitch as opposed to tongue weight pulling DOWN on the hitch and bolts would be the significant difference.

From my reading you just need a wire windshield cutter that they conveniently sell for $20, Does say it's a PITA but doable with the wire cutter.

They're very light (hollow tubing) and would work just fine. Very strong, we put 500+lbs all the time. But 24" is not very wide to sleep on. Seems like you could be creative and do things other than the standard bed/couch if you got 2 - 24" x 36" Could put them together to make the bed up as needed, if you didnt' want a bed/couch space hog all the time.

Thank you!

Had my interior panels off for running wires for tow hitch install and decided to try the sound deadener peel and stick panels talked about here and everywhere. Got the back and roof done but I can't figure out how to get the front door panels off. ?????

They sell everything you need including a wire cutting tool to cut the old adhesive on the panel. You still have to cut out the inner part of the steel where the window goes. The glass will cover the whole area but some will be over remaining metal on the door all around. That's where the adhesive goes. My tools and supplies from Van direct arrive today, but no window. 😞

LOL< well you do what you do and i'll do what i do.

Many LED headlights are no improvement. Some are worse than stockers in my experience. Most arent' really worth the trouble, if there is a slight big more light it's usually a slight bit less light somewhere else.. Most don't aim properly and so throw too much light too high or too low. (LED bulbs without a proper (not oem generally) reflector aren't good. Do ANY after market LED bulbs have the federally mandated cut off so yoiu dont' blind oncoming traffic. In my town most seem to not LED headlights are designed specifically for that bulb design. Just general info not tc specific. so sorry if contradicted by other posts that are tc specific. didnt' read whole thread one other sometimes significant factor is sometimes you don't' much if any light low and out to the side. Leaves the side of the road very dark. Stock lights are supposed to light up very specifc areas to a minimum federal standard. LED have no such standards (maybe stockers?) and typically under light one or more of those areas. But certainly new and better stuff coming out all the time and I haven't touched anything new in a year.

test

My 16 rear defroster never worked. my 16 xlt has no mirror heaters but no defrost icons so i would guess you do. I'm thinking I read it was tied to the rear switch. Could be a blown fuse too since it heats it's a decent draw.

you see them around. They look horrrible. iT's harder than it looks and getting all the air bubbles out takes practice. I guess I should clarify, it's not that hard a job, but if you've never done it before it's hard to make it look like the shops do. I paid $69 for tinting the 2 larger front windows. Sun doens't come through the smaller ones, don't need them. They wanted another $60 to do those!

https://www.vanwindowsdirect.com/collections/ford-transit-connect-14-18/products/ama-passenger-side-sliding-door-solid-glass-window-ford-transit-connect-van-lwb-2014-2020 A bit tempted by the 1/2 opening option. But I'm not sure I want or need an opening window there. Mostly a work van for me. ALso $150 more and back ordered. So easy decision. Got the trim and urethane and cutting wire from them. Pick up a suction clamp thingee from Harbor Freight to hold the window for install. ($10) Watched a few vids, pretty straight forward. Just taking the time to do it right. "cut once....." - Yikes! LOL

You definitely need the spring properly seated.

worth a shot. How much of it did you use?