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DonShockley last won the day on December 20 2018

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About DonShockley

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  1. If using a puller or pliers you may want to reinstall the nut loosely while you're first trying to get it broken loose. It'll give you a larger surface to pry against and it will protect the threads. And if you do happen to damage the surface with the plier teeth or something, it's a lot easier to replace a nut than a threaded wiper motor shaft.
  2. DonShockley

    Is AC tied to external temp reading?

    Here's the sensor location shown in the wiring book for my 2015. C132 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor
  3. DonShockley

    Floor liner ideas 2012 TC

    I used 1/4" thick x 4ft wide rubber mat sold by the foot at my local Tractor Supply store. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rb-rubber-multi-mat-rolled-rubber-1-4-in-thick-sold-by-the-foot?cm_vc=-10005
  4. DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    FYI: One of the better sources for assorted dimensions and other misc. info is the Body Builders Layout Book It is available from the Ford TC Body Builder Advisory Service Amd here is the link for several years and also lots of other documents (look for your year and BBLB) https://fordbbas.com/vehicleModel/TransitConnect
  5. DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    Still here almost daily, but I only chime in if I think somebody needs info I can provide. Just did a quick measurement at the rear liftgate at the low point of the headliner stiffener. Center point is slightly higher at 44-1/4" and at edges just before rounded corners was lower at 42-3/4", both measured from the top of the plywood/rubber mat combo I added. So add about another 1" to the stock floor. IIRC, leaving seats in costs very close to 6" in lost height.
  6. Don't know if it'll help with your Gen1, but here's the Gen2 install insructions for the factory tow hitch wiring kit that includes recommended routing for the power supply wire through an opening at the base of the A pillar. Note: Transit Connect starts on page 20 since the instructions cover multiple vehicles. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2no1NZQbXg0b19VUXNGSUMxdVU/view
  7. I wonder if they got the idea here on the forums from the member that did something similar?
  8. DonShockley


    Sorry, that look puts it pretty high on my NOPE! meter
  9. 1. I had the same worry since it looks so low. But in practice I've never hit anything due to being too low. Trim under front bumper clears concrete parking stops. I don't creep over speed bumps, just slow enough I don't bounce off the ceiling. And I've used it for work on occasion over rutted dirt and gravel roads. Bottomed the hitch out once driving off a curb that looked like an exit, but never bottomed out the TC itself. Did run over one of those paper towel multipacks that fell out of a pickup on the highway and had no issues. The shields on the underside seem to have the important bits well protected if you do encounter something. 2. It's not a racer but plenty of power for merging onto the highway and climbing hills. At least for me running most of the time with just driver and lightly loaded. Lots of passengers or cargo might be different. But I only do that rarely so not enough experience to say for sure even though I've never had it be bad enough to be noticable. 3. Not an issue on my 2015 XLT, but comparing that photo of the Titanium to a similar photo of my XLT, I have a small gap between mirror and trim above. Sunroof may require extra space and cause trim to be a bit lower. My mirror and the huge rear window make it like looking out with no rear hatch. But my rear seats have been removed so I'm not looking over their backs. 4. I worried too. I even stuck a piece of PVC in the dirt and drove until I hit it both front and rear. I kept getting another foot or two past where I thought I would hit before I actually did. In reality there's not much sticking very far out, that slope looks worse than it is. Half the engine is essentially under that big expanse of glass and dash so there's just not much past the end of the glass. And the rounded off corners let you get surprising close to adjacent cars when turning into parking spots. 5. No kids but my neice's family visited and I put the seats back in and our group of 6 did all our sightseeing in the TC. 4 adults and 2 kids and I'm over 300# so the TC was full, but only 1 carseat. I specifically asked my neice's husband how the third row was for him after a longish trip and he had said it was fine, close but not cramped and able to move his legs around enough for comfort. My second row is the 60/40 and folding the 40 back gave easy access to the third row. We never did try 3 across on row two. But my neice said it seemed doable with her and 2 kids if the carseat was out.
  10. I think these are the Ford OEM part numbers: Front DT1Z16A550A, Rear DT1Z16A550B I got mine at PartsCheap.com but they appear to no longer carry them. Here's a link to the Ford Accessories order page: https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/accessories/exterior I dug out the instructions for my set. Here's the photos.
  11. DonShockley

    Water on passenger footwell

    I seem to recall somebody having similar symptoms and it ended up being a fitting being pulled out of a hose that is used to drain condensation from the inside of the AC ducting. I think there was a photo. I'll try to find it and post a link later.
  12. I did the front and rear mud flaps on my 2015 LWB and it wasn't too much fuss. It's been 3 1/2 years so I don't recall all the details. IIRC, just a little bit of frustration to keep the edges aligned as you press home the clips that attach the flap to the existing trim. I don't remember if it was just an issue of not enough hands for the job or just how precisely everything needed to be aligned to get the pieces to interlock. But I did have to loosen the fasteners back up a couple times before I got everything to fall into place correctly. But the instructions lay out the process so it's not one of those installs that requires special tools or knowledge.
  13. I've used these style of nuts with springs (intended for use in channel struts) in other applications where I need a nut in a spot where I can't get a wrench on it. You might find them usable in the slots circled in the photo above depending on width. The nuts are usually available in the electrical supply area of big box hardware stores since the channel strut is often used to mount electrical conduit. https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-GIDDS-461512-ZA1003-8EG-10/dp/B000BPHMQE/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1543976744&sr=8-15&keywords=strut+channel+nut
  14. DonShockley

    Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect

    Thule keys also appear to be availale on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Car-Rack-Replacement-Key/dp/B00T12TYW8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539159015&sr=8-4&keywords=thule+key&dpID=41NC5I1xGrL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
  15. DonShockley

    Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect

    And here's an order page for keys: https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/thule-support/spare-parts-keys When I entered the number shown on my lock body it came up with a valid part to order. So you may be able to get replacement keys for $2.75 each if the number is readable on your lock cylinder.