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Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. DonShockley

    Locking lugnuts....

    My 2015 had it in the glove compartment at delivery. Now it's in the compartment under the passenger's seat, along with all the lock nuts since I had the dealer order replacements as part of the sales deal and they took them off shortly after delivery. It also doesn't really look much like a key. Here's photos of mine so you can see what you're looking for. (Assuming your 2019 is same as my 2015). I knew right away that I didn't trust thos little tiny ridges not to strip when I really needed them.
  2. DonShockley

    Now I can see

    That's even better than my wagon since it doesn't have the fixed/roll down split in the middle. I'm definitely adding the 2nd row window options when I do my custom order on a TC van in the next couple years. A few weeks back a coworker was riding in my TC for the first time as we went to lunch. A little ways down the road he suddenly starts looking all around then comments on how great the visibility was and it's like there's nothing but windows. Personally, I really like the huge rear window in the liftgate. When using the rear view mirror it's like there's nothing there at all since I've removed the 2nd and 3rd row seats so absolutely no obstructions in the way.
  3. DonShockley

    Broken red rear seat strap

    Not a lawyer, but here's a link to the Washington State lemon law section: https://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=19.118.041 (1) Looks like they get 40 days once you send a letter to MANUFACTURER requesting they replace or repurchase (2) Looks like they get 2 tries for a serious safety defect, 4 tries for a "nonconformity", or it's been out of service for 30 days or more. (3) Talks about coverage for motor homes (4) Manufacturer is liable, not the dealer Again, that's just my reading as a layman. I have absolutely no real legal knowledge.
  4. I*'m just guessing here, but lots of the optional items and even routine things like door locks and window switches rely on individual modules scattered around the car to accomplish those tasks. You would think they would just have a master wiring harness and you could just attach the needed modules, sensors, etc. to get the features you want. But it appears that's not how they build them. If it's not a factory feature on your individual vehicle, they leave all the wires and interconnections out entirely. They probably save a whole $50 in parts cost doing it that way. Replacing sensors if all the underlying hardware and connections are in place is easy. Adding all the extra wiring, connectors, and modules on a fully built vehicle can be nearly impossible. Here's the section from the wiring manual on my 2015 where you can see all the stuff that's needed in between the bumper sensors and the speaker to make it all work. Plus there's ususally some software changes needed to control it all too.
  5. DonShockley

    Need help with my transit

    The thing that's really frustrating about these types of searches is how absolutely useless all the info the manufacturer puts on the part really is when you want to find one. I run into the same problem at work all the time. You would think the very specific info printed right into the plastic "Kabelschlepp 53226" would be loads of help. But that got me only as far as a mention on the apparent US division of the supplier, but without the part number. And even that was only reachable through Google search. A search on the company's site by name or number comes up totally empty, even though the page exists. https://www.ustsubaki.com/cable-hose-carriers.html
  6. DonShockley

    Need help with my transit

    I think I found it, you would need to double check to see if part number is different depending on which side is damaged. But it looks like the cable trak (which seems to be the more generic term and spellling) probably is the same and just flips over. The end connectors are likely side dependent looking at the ones on my 2015 TC. BTW: I found it by scrolling through different areas, but it looks like the search term needed was "Shield" since that's the title on the part landing page. Here's the info I got: Ford Part #14A099B Cover - Wiring https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/other-electrical-related-parts/shield-6592745-1
  7. DonShockley

    fueling auto stop going off prematurely

    That was my first thought too. The little double door setup for the capless fuel filler can sometimes be a bit of a pain if the nozzle has a bend too close to the end. Occassionally a straight-in insertion through the first door causes the end of the nozzle to only partially open the second little flapper because the curve of the nozzle wants to force the end of the nozzle to move towards the edge of the opening and it catches instead of moving smoothly through the second opening. When this happens, the auto shutoof seems to trip almost immediately when trying to start fuelling. But a slight tipping of the nozzle to clear it from catching the edge of the second opening and it usually goes in just a bit more and now that the second flapper is fully open it fuels fine and shuts off normally once the tank nears full.
  8. DonShockley

    Again, remove 3rd row

    You could always just get a generic kit for Weather Pack connectors and replace both ends instead of trying to match one side of the existing OEM connector. I didn't get this particular kit but built something similar piecemeal over time as I was doing other projects by ordering a couple extras each time. https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Pack-Connector-WP-405-Special/dp/B005BH1HT0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=auto+wp+connector+kit&qid=1559082360&s=industrial&sr=1-2-catcorr For just a quick single job with just 2-pole connectors, you can get a pack of 10 sets with terminals and seals for $10 https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Terminals/dp/B01FP1HXHQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/136-8593096-5025566?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FP1HXHQ&pd_rd_r=a1f54031-8197-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=lGcae&pd_rd_wg=DIufg&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH&psc=1&refRID=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH
  9. DonShockley

    voice command not "hearing" me

    Looks like it's a very cheap dealer installed alarm system. Seems to be for salesman convenience. https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/08/never-buy-car-alarm-dealership/ If I ever see a piece of junk that poorly installed on a new vehicle from a dealer I'm pitching a fit. I may choose to do something like that after it's mine, but I'm an amateur working on my own stuff. A supposed expert dealer doing it so poorly to every brand new vehicle like the article mentions would make me run as fast as I could to a different dealer. Reading how they are used I would be wondering if it's still set up with the equivalvent of a master key. After all, if the dealer didn't remember to explain what it was then did he remember to change it from the master dealer module to the individual customer module.
  10. As for support, obviously my large plywood sheet is anchored and supported at the rear 2/3 by the existing floor and reuses the existing seat mount bolting locations. The front 1/3 is supported with a 2x4 across the front and some extra legs that sit nicely on the little flat areas at the base of the B pillars behind the front seats. There is also a little support in the middle, between the two bins, that sits loose on the floor and is extra insurance if a really heavy load gets set in the area.
  11. As for the underfloor storage, I just found some bins at Walmart that worked for me. They just slide in from the side and let me use almost all the volume. It's also a great spot to store the crossbars for the factory roof rails since I never use them.
  12. Here's how I converted my wagon to a van layout. Removed second and third rows, removed center bracket for second row, added plywood to span from back of first row all the way to the tailgate, and topped it with rubber matting so things don't slide as much. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4109-converted-2015-lwb-wagon-into-a-van/ Most of the photo thumbnails aren't showing now, likely due to the forum changes over the years. But if you click on the markers they still take you to the photos. If you scroll down about halfway through page 1, you'll find download links to some pdf files with dimensions of the cutouts in the plywood for an exact fit. If you just want to skim through the photos, here's the link to the album. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/gallery/album/160-2015-tc-lwb-wagon-modifications/
  13. I swore I put links in earlier? Maybe they went dead once the eBay listing got old enough and were removed. The Valeo aftermarket part numbers are: Left #45254 Right #45255 Here's the current listings from the same seller, Start245: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Tail-Light-Rear-Lamp-VALEO-Fits-Left-FORD-Tourneo-Transit-Wagon-2013-/173527049394?hash=item286704a4b2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Tail-Light-Rear-Lamp-VALEO-Fits-Right-FORD-Tourneo-Transit-Wagon-2013-/153174924030?hash=item23a9efdafe
  14. DonShockley

    remove interior wheel well covers

    Actually it's the other way around. The chicken tax does not apply to passenger vehicles but does apply to work vehicles. So they all start as wagons and get converted to vans by removing the seats and windows, not installing them. Here's a good summary of how and why: https://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-biz-ford-tariff-chicken-tax-20180709-story.html
  15. DonShockley

    Removing Factory Roof Rails?

    There are bolts that penetrate the roof and have to be removed from the inside.
  16. DonShockley

    Power sliding door and power lift gate?

    On my TC key fob that button only triggers the unlock on the liftgate. If the other doors are locked then they stay locked.
  17. DonShockley

    Power sliding door and power lift gate?

    I wonder if there would be a way to make that kit trigger opening when the liftgate unlock button on the existing factory key is used.
  18. DonShockley

    remove interior wheel well covers

    Here's some pix from when I added power to my overhead console. I took the pics to show the routing on the power supply wiring I added, the red/yellow/orange bundle, so the other stuff isn't really shown well but you can see what's under there. My TC is a 2015 wagon. If yours is a van, then it won't have all the AC ductwork or the seatbelt winders. The trailer tow module above and to the left of the fuse box was an after purchase Ford accessory addition. And this is just on the passenger side where the Aux fuse box is located. The drivers side where the jack is located likely has much less wiring in the same areas.
  19. If using a puller or pliers you may want to reinstall the nut loosely while you're first trying to get it broken loose. It'll give you a larger surface to pry against and it will protect the threads. And if you do happen to damage the surface with the plier teeth or something, it's a lot easier to replace a nut than a threaded wiper motor shaft.
  20. DonShockley

    Is AC tied to external temp reading?

    Here's the sensor location shown in the wiring book for my 2015. C132 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor
  21. DonShockley

    Floor liner ideas 2012 TC

    I used 1/4" thick x 4ft wide rubber mat sold by the foot at my local Tractor Supply store. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rb-rubber-multi-mat-rolled-rubber-1-4-in-thick-sold-by-the-foot?cm_vc=-10005
  22. I decided to convert my 2015 TC LWB Wagon into a Van. I got the Wagon because of the incentives, the 6 month or more delay on a custom Van order, and the Wagon had most of the features I wanted to customize a Van with. But my lifestyle rarely involves a single passenger, and never a need for 7, so the seats were more of a hindrance than a benefit. Although the flat deck provided with both rows folded is the best implementation of cargo duty in a passenger vehicle I’ve seen, I wanted more space and storage. So I set about a slow conversion process, trying things for a few days until the next improvement necessary became apparent. I’ve waited until the process seemed to be pretty final before writing this up to share. I’ll try to hit the highlights in the photos and descriptions below. But here’s the final result.
  23. DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    FYI: One of the better sources for assorted dimensions and other misc. info is the Body Builders Layout Book It is available from the Ford TC Body Builder Advisory Service Amd here is the link for several years and also lots of other documents (look for your year and BBLB) https://fordbbas.com/vehicleModel/TransitConnect
  24. DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    Still here almost daily, but I only chime in if I think somebody needs info I can provide. Just did a quick measurement at the rear liftgate at the low point of the headliner stiffener. Center point is slightly higher at 44-1/4" and at edges just before rounded corners was lower at 42-3/4", both measured from the top of the plywood/rubber mat combo I added. So add about another 1" to the stock floor. IIRC, leaving seats in costs very close to 6" in lost height.
  25. I wonder if they got the idea here on the forums from the member that did something similar?