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Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. I wonder if they got the idea here on the forums from the member that did something similar?
  2. DonShockley


    Sorry, that look puts it pretty high on my NOPE! meter
  3. 1. I had the same worry since it looks so low. But in practice I've never hit anything due to being too low. Trim under front bumper clears concrete parking stops. I don't creep over speed bumps, just slow enough I don't bounce off the ceiling. And I've used it for work on occasion over rutted dirt and gravel roads. Bottomed the hitch out once driving off a curb that looked like an exit, but never bottomed out the TC itself. Did run over one of those paper towel multipacks that fell out of a pickup on the highway and had no issues. The shields on the underside seem to have the important bits well protected if you do encounter something. 2. It's not a racer but plenty of power for merging onto the highway and climbing hills. At least for me running most of the time with just driver and lightly loaded. Lots of passengers or cargo might be different. But I only do that rarely so not enough experience to say for sure even though I've never had it be bad enough to be noticable. 3. Not an issue on my 2015 XLT, but comparing that photo of the Titanium to a similar photo of my XLT, I have a small gap between mirror and trim above. Sunroof may require extra space and cause trim to be a bit lower. My mirror and the huge rear window make it like looking out with no rear hatch. But my rear seats have been removed so I'm not looking over their backs. 4. I worried too. I even stuck a piece of PVC in the dirt and drove until I hit it both front and rear. I kept getting another foot or two past where I thought I would hit before I actually did. In reality there's not much sticking very far out, that slope looks worse than it is. Half the engine is essentially under that big expanse of glass and dash so there's just not much past the end of the glass. And the rounded off corners let you get surprising close to adjacent cars when turning into parking spots. 5. No kids but my neice's family visited and I put the seats back in and our group of 6 did all our sightseeing in the TC. 4 adults and 2 kids and I'm over 300# so the TC was full, but only 1 carseat. I specifically asked my neice's husband how the third row was for him after a longish trip and he had said it was fine, close but not cramped and able to move his legs around enough for comfort. My second row is the 60/40 and folding the 40 back gave easy access to the third row. We never did try 3 across on row two. But my neice said it seemed doable with her and 2 kids if the carseat was out.
  4. I think these are the Ford OEM part numbers: Front DT1Z16A550A, Rear DT1Z16A550B I got mine at PartsCheap.com but they appear to no longer carry them. Here's a link to the Ford Accessories order page: https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/accessories/exterior I dug out the instructions for my set. Here's the photos.
  5. DonShockley

    Water on passenger footwell

    I seem to recall somebody having similar symptoms and it ended up being a fitting being pulled out of a hose that is used to drain condensation from the inside of the AC ducting. I think there was a photo. I'll try to find it and post a link later.
  6. I did the front and rear mud flaps on my 2015 LWB and it wasn't too much fuss. It's been 3 1/2 years so I don't recall all the details. IIRC, just a little bit of frustration to keep the edges aligned as you press home the clips that attach the flap to the existing trim. I don't remember if it was just an issue of not enough hands for the job or just how precisely everything needed to be aligned to get the pieces to interlock. But I did have to loosen the fasteners back up a couple times before I got everything to fall into place correctly. But the instructions lay out the process so it's not one of those installs that requires special tools or knowledge.
  7. I've used these style of nuts with springs (intended for use in channel struts) in other applications where I need a nut in a spot where I can't get a wrench on it. You might find them usable in the slots circled in the photo above depending on width. The nuts are usually available in the electrical supply area of big box hardware stores since the channel strut is often used to mount electrical conduit. https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-GIDDS-461512-ZA1003-8EG-10/dp/B000BPHMQE/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1543976744&sr=8-15&keywords=strut+channel+nut
  8. DonShockley

    Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect

    Thule keys also appear to be availale on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Car-Rack-Replacement-Key/dp/B00T12TYW8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539159015&sr=8-4&keywords=thule+key&dpID=41NC5I1xGrL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
  9. DonShockley

    Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect

    And here's an order page for keys: https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/thule-support/spare-parts-keys When I entered the number shown on my lock body it came up with a valid part to order. So you may be able to get replacement keys for $2.75 each if the number is readable on your lock cylinder.
  10. DonShockley

    Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect

    BTW, here's the Ford Accessories link for these crossbars. https://accessories.ford.com/catalog/product/view/id/10799/s/kit-lugg-crossbar-univ-lockable/category/3020/ And I can't be sure, but I think these are the Thule lock cylinders that could be used to replace broken ones if you choose to force the locks and break them. They look the same, but I'm not sure how universal the fit may be. https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/roof-rack/roof-rack-components-and-accessories/thule-4-pack-lock-cylinder-544-_-1037
  11. DonShockley


    Although this video is for a full size Transit van and not a Connect, it's still one of my favorite car show segments. If I win the lottery I want to do something similar with an old beat up Connect. The ultimate sleeper.
  12. DonShockley

    Key missing for cargo rack Transit Connect

    Your photo looks like the Ford Accessory bars I got for my TC when I bought it. IIRC, the locks were an optional part of the install and I had to pop out some covers on the end pieces to install them. So the good news is that even if you choose to force the locks, the actual part that tightens the racks in place would remain intact. The tightening is actually done by a bolt in the foot area and the end piece with the lock is basically nothing more than the T-handled end of a long square key that slides through the middle of the bolt shaft to tighten it. The lock is a simple quarter turn pot metal cam that keeps the end cap from pulling out. Once you get the lock turned, with a key or by breaking it, the end cap slides out slightly (or all the way if you want) and you can then spin the square shaft to tighten or loosen the foot. Worst case scenario you could even hacksaw off the entire end piece and still use a wrench on the remaining piece of square stock to operate the tighening mechanism. Now if you're really lucky, your lock has the numbers N165 on it which matches my key set and I can make you some copies and send them to you. But that's a long shot. Here's some photos of my cross bar end showing the mechanism on the end. If you need more detail or pix of how the bar fits the foot bolt just let me know and I can take more. But this should give some idea of what's inside that you need to get around.
  13. DonShockley

    Repair manual. Lemme try

    I can't speak for how well these work, how good the coverage is, or it it'll fit your needs. But here's a link I bookmarked after somebody else posted it that supposedly offers the factory repair manual for just $60 as a download. https://www.factory-manuals.com/ford-transit/-connect&28&164
  14. I was looking a my TC again to try to help a guy on FB having problems with his door sticking in the latched open position. That middle piece is definitely the hold open latch. There is a wheel and a couple torx screw heads visible up inside the middle track that match that part very well. So the hex screw must be used to adjust the tension on the roller. Glad I found this info because as you can see I've not gotten much lube there when spraying the tracks. This will be another spot to hit with the better red lube spray I just started using.
  15. DonShockley

    Overhead center console - what's it for?

    Opps, lost ability to edit while adding photos. Here's the comparison of the light module in the shelf to the possibly matching cutout in the headliner underneath the shelf.
  16. DonShockley

    Overhead center console - what's it for?

    Here's another photo of the side showing the holes in the headliner that will be left from the shelf mounting points. And I don't know for sure, but it may be possible to remove the light fixture from the shelf and install it in the cutout in the headliner. They look to be about the same size and shape.
  17. That's what's causing it in my screen. Thanks for the help, it's the first time I've noticed this effect from how I have my monitors set up. I use a dual screen setup with two 24" monitors, one in portrait mode and one in landscape mode. Most of my web browsing is reading so I tend to do that on the narrower portrait screen for less scrolling while reading. This is the first time I've seen this cause a picture distortion on a web page. You would think the software doing the compression to make it fit assorted resolutions would be smart enough to maintain the ratios to prevent such distortion.
  18. That camera distortion in the first bunch of clips makes it look worse than it appears in the later photos. That side to side narrowing makes the whole vehicle look weirdly tall and narrow. Even in the later pix without the distortion there's very little noticable change with the add-ons.
  19. DonShockley

    Overhead center console - what's it for?

    I put a 12v power port and a USB power port in mine which is why I had it apart to take the photos. And I keep emergency supplies under the cover for the non-existent sunglass holder.
  20. DonShockley

    Overhead center console - what's it for?

    Here's a photo of what's on the back side. This is from my 2015 with Sync so it has the microphone in that area.
  21. Well, don't you know my 3 year / 36000 mile warranty period ended just 4 days ago. And what did I find when I started to head out for lunch earlier today, my side sliding door on the drivers side was sitting ajar and would not latch when I tried to close it again. So it looks like my vehicle has fallen prey to the failure that they issued a recall for, #16V643000 back on Sep 6, 2016. Now normally with a recall, I wouldn't be worrying about warranty time frames. But there's one problem, supposedly my vehicle had the recall repair installed on Jun 16, 2017 so in theory what has broken is the newly installed recall repair kit. However, when I was investigating the problem, it looks like the plastic on the latches is much more worn than I would expect for parts just a year old. And it doesn't look like the torx screws have any scrattches suggesting they had been removed with a tool, but maybe I am expecting visible signs where there are none. Maybe pros don't let tools slip and leave scratches like I am used to seeing when I work on things. Does anybody have any experience or knowledge on this recall or recalls in general? I am wondering exactly what was replaced, if the work was indeed done and not just radio'd off on the paperwork. And is the dealer done with their obligation just by performing the recall repair once or does repeat of the same failure reported in the recall require them to address the issue even though the warranty period is over? Obviously, it is the weekend so I won't be able to actually contact the dealer and get any info until Monday morning so I have no idea how they'll respond. I just wanted to get a little feedback if possible since this is the first issue like this I have had with any of my vehicles. All other repairs were normal age related failures where you know they aren't covered. Here's some pictures of both the drivers and passengers side latches (drivers side is the failed one). I rarely use the passengers side door which is why the normal wear and tear is so different between the two. But even the passenger side plastic latch shows an awful lot of wear for just 13 months after recall replacement.
  22. That's the direction I'm pushing. I'm starting to suspect some of what's going on is the service department trying to keep the issue contained so I'm not sure how much is making it up the chain. Tomorrow I'm going in to get my prepaid service contract cancelled. At the same time, I plan to check what's making it over to the management side. And this is another area where I've got a bit of extra leg up in addition to all the recorded evidence I've collected. Although it's not a close relationship, I do have a non-business link to the general manager of the dealership. My mother has been a friend of his since he was a lowly salesman and she was the one who directed me to him for my initial vehicle purchase. Although IIRC he was just an assistant manager in sales at that time and I mostly worked with a different salesman. I'm not somebody to try to throw names around to try for special treatment so I've been trying to get the service guys to handle it right without mentioning him. But I plan to insist on speaking to him tomorrow and I'll be interested to see if he's heard of the problem. And either way, his reaction will tell me how severe of a dealer problem it may be and serve as a guide to how much further I need to go.
  23. I think this particular issue is almost exclusively the dealer and not Ford. I actually plan on following up with Ford, and NHTSA, regarding the failure to actually install any parts during the earlier recall repair. This stopped being about money the second it became apparent that's what actually happened and not a simple mistake of installing on the wrong doors. I've still got to pull the front door panels myself and get photo evidence of my own to prove that issue since right now I am just relying on the dealer's photos at the time. Continued dealer actions will also guide what I do going forward. If they seem to understand the implications of a tech not installing a safety recall part and respond accordingly, I'll tend to do less. If they seem to be concealing or minimizing the error, I'll take it further outside their system. So far I've got a ton of hard evidence, except for the old parts in hand. I just wish I had thought to pull all the door panels before it went into the shop to be able to show all seals intact after the supposed recall install. But all phone calls were recorded and saved, and I did get most of the last in person interaction recorded. All this with the dashcam videos and paperwork would probably make a strong court case if it ever came to that.
  24. DonShockley

    Mike Chell's Soapbox

    It's especially heinous when it's all based on a ficticious statistic made up by a 9-year-old almost a decade ago. https://www.npr.org/2018/07/22/631254978/one-childs-outsized-influence-on-the-debate-over-plastic-waste I like how in this article the number is important when justifying the need to take action, but as soon as it's pointed out that there is no basis in fact for that statistic suddenly the number doesn't matter and we still need to take the same action. From the story: "Right from the get-go, it seemed like a reasonable number because that's 1.5 straws per person per day, which may not seem like a lot but it really adds up," And in the very next paragraph: "Pretty much, no matter what the number is," says Cress, "as long as we're throwing away straws when we don't need to, that number is too high." I can excuse childish thinking from a child. but not from adults using faulty information to make punishing laws.
  25. Just got back from the dealers. Finally the dealer took my initial suspicion seriously and did some actual investigation. Although the part numbers are different for front and slider, once they actually compared them they were virtually identical externally and slider latches would be possible to install in the front. Next step was to pull the door panels in the front to check if slider latches were actually installed. Turns out this was NOT what happened and the original latches were still in place complete with factory witness marks undisturbed. But they were prepared to replace the front latches had they found slider latches in the wrong location. They did end up installing the passenger slider latch since it was obvious the recall had never actually been installed in that door. There's still some more hoops the dealer is having to do on their end to straighten out all the paperwork since their system won't let them do a direct credit card refund on a customer delivered part without a corresponding return of a part into their inventory. They weren't sure they could get it fixed and refunded today even if I waited, so I took delivery of my vehicle now with both slider latches freshly replaced. But they will be issuing a full refund of what I paid, including the Ford Warranty Deductible. Although it may have to be as a refund check instead of a credit card refund. I do have to give the service manager credit, once he realized that I might be right and the paperwork was wrong he immediatly offered a pretty genuine apology. And he immediately got somebody to drop everything else and get all four door latches checked to make sure the correct parts were installed and do the one remaining replacement ASAP. I am sure there will likely be some repercussions for the staff guy for never actually installing the recall a year ago, but that's the dealers issue. The recent fiasco seems due to young techs without a lick of common sense. Not realizing that a prior recall repair should have meant signs of prior work, and if the door they were working on didn't show that prior work then likely the other side wasn't done either and needed to be fixed also.