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DonShockley

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Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. DonShockley

    Hello everyone from a new member

    These were some photos posted in 2016 on the forum that I copied for my own future reference if needed. Unfortunately, I didn't think to make notes on the photos of who the original poster was or a link to the post itself. Nor did I make a note of the model year. I tried to search and find the original source post but I was unable to find it. So with all due apologies to the original forum poster, here are copies of his photos of the area that show the area under the van floor extensions.
  2. DonShockley

    Cross Bars - Recommendations?

    Here's a post with some info
  3. I had to do some exploring on my 2015 after my driver's side rear door latch failed even after the recall was "completed". Turned out the parts for the recall were never replaced so I did a lot of photos documenting the fact back in 2018 just in case I had to prove the earlier work was never done. I thought to get detailed removal photos on the front door panels but not the back. So I went out and refreshed my memory and took a couple new pix for the fastener locations that I remembered. But be advised I may have forgotten something. There are two T20 screws in holes on the edge of the trim. One at the front bottom corner and the other at the middle of the rear edge near the child safety locks, The rest of the fasteners are just white push-in plastic pins. A firm steady pull gets them out of their holes. They have a flat head that goes into slots in the plastic trim panel and angled sides press fit into holes in the metal of the door itself. As you pull, sometimes they come off the metal hole side (intended) and sometimes out of the plastic panel side (not intended). Don't worry, they can be put back in the slot after you get it out of the door. The red arrows are what I recall for the pin locations. There is a simple lever to (I forget, push down I think but might need to lift slightly) to get the electric connector off the window switch. It's the red and black one hanging in the photo. There is a photo of the front door panel with all the white push pins attached, I don't have a photo of the rear door panel with pins attached. But you can see how they fit on. And finally, there's a photo showing the rubber mentioned earlier around the edge of the foam seal panel.
  4. DonShockley

    Wireless phone charger

    Also, most Qi wireless chargers have a "sweet spot" for device placement. Since the charging coil in each phone is located in a different spot, it will only work when the charge supply coil in the car pad is lined up with the charge receive coil in the phone. Depending on the combination of phone and charger, sometimes the sweet spot is very small. Sometimes phones and chargers have markings to show where the coil is located, sometimes they don't. Try moving it around to find a working spot. Generally the pad coil is in the middle, but phones tend to be wherever they could squeeze the coil in.
  5. DonShockley

    Wireless phone charger

    This video from Ford mentions that although the iPhone 8 and above support wireless charging some early models may need a special charging sleeve. Not personally an iPhone user so not sure on the details.
  6. Here's a shot of how I tapped into the rear fuse box for my needs. The red and yellow are constant and switched power to the front. Blue and green are both switched for use at the rear. I have an accessory box at the front to make it easier to add extra circuits and pick switched or unswitched as needed just by moving where the fuse is plugged in. Front is supply for a phone charger, 12v outlet in overhead shelf, and USB connector in shelf for dashcam. The rear has so far just been used for a dashcam.
  7. DonShockley

    Shelter In Place

    I work at a drinking water treatment plant. The only people who are getting to stay home during the "shelter in place" for our county is the management staff. All the operators are still working but social distancing means all overlap between shifts have been cut out so you have to do all the work alone. Normal for me since I work the midnight shift, but the day and evening shifts are used to working together on multi-person jobs during the afternoon overlap. Overall, a few less hours per week but much busier.
  8. Been pulled from my 2015 LWB since about week 2 of buying new. Only put back in for about a month while family was visiting a couple years back. I was planning a van custom order for my next purchase but the whole "classified as commercial" means extra loan and insurance hassles I haven't felt like messing with. Plan was to put the seats back in once I had both and just switch vehicles as appropriate.
  9. How is that any type of a van / wagon? Just another hatchback car. I know our TCs are based on a car's power train, but the practicality is all in the body style and resulting roomy interior. That thing looks even smaller than my old RAV4 when it comes to usable space. If that's the direction Ford is going with the TC, I might have to start looking more seriously at the alternatives.
  10. Here's a copy/paste from the manual for my 2015 XLT. Note: if I remember correctly I think I had to do something slightly different when I disabled it on mine. I think I had to use the lock and unlock buttons respectively instead of using lock button only for different lengths of time as the procedure says. It's been several years so I don't recall exactly other than it took several tries and a trying slightly different buttons once I was in the programming mode (after step 5) before I finally got it to work. Auto lock and Auto unlock Feature (pages 56-57) Auto lock The Auto lock feature will lock the doors and liftgate when all of the following conditions have been met: • All doors are closed. • The ignition is on. • Your vehicle is moving at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than two seconds. Auto unlock The auto unlock feature will unlock all the doors when all of the following conditions have been met: • The ignition is on, all doors are closed, and your vehicle is moving at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than two seconds. • Your vehicle has come to a stop and you switch the ignition off or to the accessory position. • The driver door is opened within 10 minutes of you switching the ignition off or to the accessory position. Note: The doors will not auto unlock if your vehicle has been electronically locked after the ignition is turned off and before the driver door is opened. Enabling or Disabling Auto lock and Auto unlock Note: An authorized dealer or you can carry out this procedure. To enable or disable these features, do the following: 1. Switch the ignition on. 2. Press the power door unlock button three times. 3. Switch the ignition off. 4. Press the power door unlock button three times. 5. Switch the ignition on. The horn will chirp indicating your vehicle is in programming mode. Auto lock: Press the power door lock button for less than one second and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. Auto unlock: Press the power door lock button for longer than two seconds and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. After programming the feature, switch the ignition off. The horn will chirp once indicating programming is complete. Note: You will have 30 seconds to complete the procedure. Note: You can enable or disable the auto unlock feature independently of the auto lock feature.
  11. DonShockley

    Transit Connect Tailgate Tents

    I always thought this one looked neat if I ever had the need for one. I keep it bookmarked on Amazon $290 https://trucktentcenter.com/rightline-gear-110907-review/
  12. DonShockley

    Dash Cam Install

    My first attempt just used legs cut off spare fuses and parts from the auto parts store. But then I found the parts to make the much nicer and more permanent setup shown above. Here's the old one I took out that went all the way to the front along with the new one I made to serve the rear. I think I may still have the old bundle laying around somewhere. If I can find it, it's yours if you want it.
  13. DonShockley

    Dash Cam Install

    I just used some taps to tie in to unused fuse spots in the auxiliary junction box in the rear of my 2015 LWB. I used these instead of tapping in to closer wires just to minimize the chances of damaging any existing circuits, modules, etc. I figure the existing design is already made to supply power at these spots so if I keep my add-ons under the same limits as the "missing" factory options then there is almost no chance of damage. I did end up using an extra wiring panel at the front for convenience since I added several small circuits, but direct wiring one or two would would work just as well. That's what I did for my rear camera.
  14. DonShockley

    Center console very hot when heat is on.

    I seem to recall a post from somebody a year or so ago with a heating issue and it turned out that a piece of ducting leading to the rear was missing. It was letting the air blow out under the front instead of making it all the way to the rear discharge vents. I seem to recall some photos or diagrams of the ducting being shown. It's possible a duct section got knocked loose during your earlier work and the heat is collecting under the center console instead of blowing into the cab. I'll try to find the post and I will add a link if I do. Edit: Found it, here's the photo and the link:
  15. I've carried a spare house and car key in my wallet for years. I make a credit card sized sandwich with plastic and 3M VHB tape. Here's a photo of my current carry with kydex. But in the past I just used simple thick clear plastic cut from some clamshell packaging.
  16. You may have the QuickClear option on the front windshield. I don't have it on mine, but I have seen others describe it as a fine grid of wires that becomes visible under some conditions. It's a heater to clear the windshield just like rear windows have had for years. But it's a larger quantity of smaller wires for better visibility. Seems like some people don't really notice it and other people can't help but see it.
  17. DonShockley

    Driver and Passenger Doors Stuck Open

    No guarantees but it looks like it may be Part #: 6125040 https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/doors/bumper-side-door-stop-6453361-1
  18. That Amazon listing makes it difficult to tell since it looks like only the first photo is specific to the TC. But zooming in on that photo looks like it has a bar that comes up from the bottom to tighten. The TC rails are a little misleading at first appearance on where they actually tighten. The groove in the outside edge seems like that's where it's anchoring. But in reality it's real strength comes from a small lip that's sort of undercut on the inside face. The Ford OEM rails do a double action as they are tightened. The pinch the rails between the inside and outside pieces, but the main anchor force comes from the 90 angle piece moving under the lip on the inside of the rail and then being pulled up to tighten. Here's a photo of the ends on the Ford OEM rails.
  19. DonShockley

    Introducing myself..

    Welcome! Looks like your first post turned out fine.
  20. I knew the TC was the perfect fit for my needs as soon as I saw one. A first gen model was turning into Lowes as I was leaving and I said to myself "That's what I've been looking for!" then turned around and found where they parked so I could see the make and model. The first gen was a bit too commercial with not enough daily driver comfort features so I waited until the second gen came out with those extras and got a 2015 LWB Wagon. Took the 2nd and 3rd row seats out since it's just me. I'm so satisfied that I'm starting to look at getting a second one now that the wagon is paid off. I'm starting to do the research on special ordering a van so I can get the wagon features I like (liftgate, tow package, etc.) since dealer stock vans typically are still stripped down commercial models. And I plan to keep the wagon and put the seats back in, unless they offer way too much as a trade in. That way, I've got a backup and I can just leave the seats in and switch back and forth as needed. Unless something drastically changes in either my life situation or in future vehicle offerings, I see myself sticking with Transit Connects from here on out.
  21. I had a small but annoying problem, all caused by this little part. Recognize it? But I hadn't tackled the fix because I figured, given how little thought manufacturers usually put into DIY maintenance, that disassembly to fix would be a major pain.
  22. Just pull it out and it will do just that. That's what I did to flush the line before I reinserted the cleaned out nozzle. Of course you would to leave the cover flipped open or drill a hole in it for it to actually work. Make it better by adding some bright yellow dye to to your washer fluid.
  23. To me the lever always seemed backwards. I know the reason it works the way it does is so that it matches other cars with front washers only. But personally it seems more logical to move the wash lever towards the front to wash the front window and move it towards the back to wash the back window.
  24. I didn't think to make note of what direction mine was pointing before I removed it. I just assumed pointed towards the center was the correct alignment for now. I'll probably do some testing on my days off later in the week to try to figure out the best positioning. And I don't know if I may have distorted the spray pattern when clearing the clog since I had to push pretty hard and dig a low with the needle.
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