Jump to content
   

DonShockley

T.C. Member
  • Content Count

    418
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    44

Everything posted by DonShockley

  1. DonShockley

    Need help with my transit

    The thing that's really frustrating about these types of searches is how absolutely useless all the info the manufacturer puts on the part really is when you want to find one. I run into the same problem at work all the time. You would think the very specific info printed right into the plastic "Kabelschlepp 53226" would be loads of help. But that got me only as far as a mention on the apparent US division of the supplier, but without the part number. And even that was only reachable through Google search. A search on the company's site by name or number comes up totally empty, even though the page exists. https://www.ustsubaki.com/cable-hose-carriers.html
  2. DonShockley

    Need help with my transit

    I think I found it, you would need to double check to see if part number is different depending on which side is damaged. But it looks like the cable trak (which seems to be the more generic term and spellling) probably is the same and just flips over. The end connectors are likely side dependent looking at the ones on my 2015 TC. BTW: I found it by scrolling through different areas, but it looks like the search term needed was "Shield" since that's the title on the part landing page. Here's the info I got: Ford Part #14A099B Cover - Wiring https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/other-electrical-related-parts/shield-6592745-1
  3. DonShockley

    fueling auto stop going off prematurely

    That was my first thought too. The little double door setup for the capless fuel filler can sometimes be a bit of a pain if the nozzle has a bend too close to the end. Occassionally a straight-in insertion through the first door causes the end of the nozzle to only partially open the second little flapper because the curve of the nozzle wants to force the end of the nozzle to move towards the edge of the opening and it catches instead of moving smoothly through the second opening. When this happens, the auto shutoof seems to trip almost immediately when trying to start fuelling. But a slight tipping of the nozzle to clear it from catching the edge of the second opening and it usually goes in just a bit more and now that the second flapper is fully open it fuels fine and shuts off normally once the tank nears full.
  4. DonShockley

    Again, remove 3rd row

    You could always just get a generic kit for Weather Pack connectors and replace both ends instead of trying to match one side of the existing OEM connector. I didn't get this particular kit but built something similar piecemeal over time as I was doing other projects by ordering a couple extras each time. https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Pack-Connector-WP-405-Special/dp/B005BH1HT0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=auto+wp+connector+kit&qid=1559082360&s=industrial&sr=1-2-catcorr For just a quick single job with just 2-pole connectors, you can get a pack of 10 sets with terminals and seals for $10 https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Terminals/dp/B01FP1HXHQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/136-8593096-5025566?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FP1HXHQ&pd_rd_r=a1f54031-8197-11e9-b4c5-ef907af3647f&pd_rd_w=lGcae&pd_rd_wg=DIufg&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH&psc=1&refRID=6DZD3CJS1DKAN8M5ZBJH
  5. DonShockley

    voice command not "hearing" me

    Looks like it's a very cheap dealer installed alarm system. Seems to be for salesman convenience. https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/08/never-buy-car-alarm-dealership/ If I ever see a piece of junk that poorly installed on a new vehicle from a dealer I'm pitching a fit. I may choose to do something like that after it's mine, but I'm an amateur working on my own stuff. A supposed expert dealer doing it so poorly to every brand new vehicle like the article mentions would make me run as fast as I could to a different dealer. Reading how they are used I would be wondering if it's still set up with the equivalvent of a master key. After all, if the dealer didn't remember to explain what it was then did he remember to change it from the master dealer module to the individual customer module.
  6. As for support, obviously my large plywood sheet is anchored and supported at the rear 2/3 by the existing floor and reuses the existing seat mount bolting locations. The front 1/3 is supported with a 2x4 across the front and some extra legs that sit nicely on the little flat areas at the base of the B pillars behind the front seats. There is also a little support in the middle, between the two bins, that sits loose on the floor and is extra insurance if a really heavy load gets set in the area.
  7. As for the underfloor storage, I just found some bins at Walmart that worked for me. They just slide in from the side and let me use almost all the volume. It's also a great spot to store the crossbars for the factory roof rails since I never use them.
  8. Here's how I converted my wagon to a van layout. Removed second and third rows, removed center bracket for second row, added plywood to span from back of first row all the way to the tailgate, and topped it with rubber matting so things don't slide as much. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4109-converted-2015-lwb-wagon-into-a-van/ Most of the photo thumbnails aren't showing now, likely due to the forum changes over the years. But if you click on the markers they still take you to the photos. If you scroll down about halfway through page 1, you'll find download links to some pdf files with dimensions of the cutouts in the plywood for an exact fit. If you just want to skim through the photos, here's the link to the album. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/gallery/album/160-2015-tc-lwb-wagon-modifications/
  9. I swore I put links in earlier? Maybe they went dead once the eBay listing got old enough and were removed. The Valeo aftermarket part numbers are: Left #45254 Right #45255 Here's the current listings from the same seller, Start245: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Tail-Light-Rear-Lamp-VALEO-Fits-Left-FORD-Tourneo-Transit-Wagon-2013-/173527049394?hash=item286704a4b2 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-Tail-Light-Rear-Lamp-VALEO-Fits-Right-FORD-Tourneo-Transit-Wagon-2013-/153174924030?hash=item23a9efdafe
  10. DonShockley

    remove interior wheel well covers

    Actually it's the other way around. The chicken tax does not apply to passenger vehicles but does apply to work vehicles. So they all start as wagons and get converted to vans by removing the seats and windows, not installing them. Here's a good summary of how and why: https://www.chicagotribune.com/business/ct-biz-ford-tariff-chicken-tax-20180709-story.html
  11. DonShockley

    Removing Factory Roof Rails?

    There are bolts that penetrate the roof and have to be removed from the inside.
  12. DonShockley

    Power sliding door and power lift gate?

    On my TC key fob that button only triggers the unlock on the liftgate. If the other doors are locked then they stay locked.
  13. DonShockley

    Power sliding door and power lift gate?

    I wonder if there would be a way to make that kit trigger opening when the liftgate unlock button on the existing factory key is used.
  14. DonShockley

    remove interior wheel well covers

    Here's some pix from when I added power to my overhead console. I took the pics to show the routing on the power supply wiring I added, the red/yellow/orange bundle, so the other stuff isn't really shown well but you can see what's under there. My TC is a 2015 wagon. If yours is a van, then it won't have all the AC ductwork or the seatbelt winders. The trailer tow module above and to the left of the fuse box was an after purchase Ford accessory addition. And this is just on the passenger side where the Aux fuse box is located. The drivers side where the jack is located likely has much less wiring in the same areas.
  15. If using a puller or pliers you may want to reinstall the nut loosely while you're first trying to get it broken loose. It'll give you a larger surface to pry against and it will protect the threads. And if you do happen to damage the surface with the plier teeth or something, it's a lot easier to replace a nut than a threaded wiper motor shaft.
  16. DonShockley

    Is AC tied to external temp reading?

    Here's the sensor location shown in the wiring book for my 2015. C132 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor
  17. DonShockley

    Floor liner ideas 2012 TC

    I used 1/4" thick x 4ft wide rubber mat sold by the foot at my local Tractor Supply store. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/rb-rubber-multi-mat-rolled-rubber-1-4-in-thick-sold-by-the-foot?cm_vc=-10005
  18. I decided to convert my 2015 TC LWB Wagon into a Van. I got the Wagon because of the incentives, the 6 month or more delay on a custom Van order, and the Wagon had most of the features I wanted to customize a Van with. But my lifestyle rarely involves a single passenger, and never a need for 7, so the seats were more of a hindrance than a benefit. Although the flat deck provided with both rows folded is the best implementation of cargo duty in a passenger vehicle I’ve seen, I wanted more space and storage. So I set about a slow conversion process, trying things for a few days until the next improvement necessary became apparent. I’ve waited until the process seemed to be pretty final before writing this up to share. I’ll try to hit the highlights in the photos and descriptions below. But here’s the final result.
  19. DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    FYI: One of the better sources for assorted dimensions and other misc. info is the Body Builders Layout Book It is available from the Ford TC Body Builder Advisory Service Amd here is the link for several years and also lots of other documents (look for your year and BBLB) https://fordbbas.com/vehicleModel/TransitConnect
  20. DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    Still here almost daily, but I only chime in if I think somebody needs info I can provide. Just did a quick measurement at the rear liftgate at the low point of the headliner stiffener. Center point is slightly higher at 44-1/4" and at edges just before rounded corners was lower at 42-3/4", both measured from the top of the plywood/rubber mat combo I added. So add about another 1" to the stock floor. IIRC, leaving seats in costs very close to 6" in lost height.
  21. I wonder if they got the idea here on the forums from the member that did something similar?
  22. Don't know if it'll help with your Gen1, but here's the Gen2 install insructions for the factory tow hitch wiring kit that includes recommended routing for the power supply wire through an opening at the base of the A pillar. Note: Transit Connect starts on page 20 since the instructions cover multiple vehicles. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2no1NZQbXg0b19VUXNGSUMxdVU/view
  23. DonShockley

    LIFT!!

    Sorry, that look puts it pretty high on my NOPE! meter
  24. 1. I had the same worry since it looks so low. But in practice I've never hit anything due to being too low. Trim under front bumper clears concrete parking stops. I don't creep over speed bumps, just slow enough I don't bounce off the ceiling. And I've used it for work on occasion over rutted dirt and gravel roads. Bottomed the hitch out once driving off a curb that looked like an exit, but never bottomed out the TC itself. Did run over one of those paper towel multipacks that fell out of a pickup on the highway and had no issues. The shields on the underside seem to have the important bits well protected if you do encounter something. 2. It's not a racer but plenty of power for merging onto the highway and climbing hills. At least for me running most of the time with just driver and lightly loaded. Lots of passengers or cargo might be different. But I only do that rarely so not enough experience to say for sure even though I've never had it be bad enough to be noticable. 3. Not an issue on my 2015 XLT, but comparing that photo of the Titanium to a similar photo of my XLT, I have a small gap between mirror and trim above. Sunroof may require extra space and cause trim to be a bit lower. My mirror and the huge rear window make it like looking out with no rear hatch. But my rear seats have been removed so I'm not looking over their backs. 4. I worried too. I even stuck a piece of PVC in the dirt and drove until I hit it both front and rear. I kept getting another foot or two past where I thought I would hit before I actually did. In reality there's not much sticking very far out, that slope looks worse than it is. Half the engine is essentially under that big expanse of glass and dash so there's just not much past the end of the glass. And the rounded off corners let you get surprising close to adjacent cars when turning into parking spots. 5. No kids but my neice's family visited and I put the seats back in and our group of 6 did all our sightseeing in the TC. 4 adults and 2 kids and I'm over 300# so the TC was full, but only 1 carseat. I specifically asked my neice's husband how the third row was for him after a longish trip and he had said it was fine, close but not cramped and able to move his legs around enough for comfort. My second row is the 60/40 and folding the 40 back gave easy access to the third row. We never did try 3 across on row two. But my neice said it seemed doable with her and 2 kids if the carseat was out.
  25. I think these are the Ford OEM part numbers: Front DT1Z16A550A, Rear DT1Z16A550B I got mine at PartsCheap.com but they appear to no longer carry them. Here's a link to the Ford Accessories order page: https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/accessories/exterior I dug out the instructions for my set. Here's the photos.
×