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Showing results for tags 'fuse'.
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I'm trying to check if I've blown a fuse in my 2019 Transit Connect. However, the fuse boxes look like nothing I've ever seen before. This is what my owner's manual says the engine fuse box will look like. I found the the cover with the fuse icon and removed it But when I look inside, I get this black box with only 2 giant plugs sticking out of it. What exactly am I looking at? Is this a new generation of fuse boxes? Is it safe to take out these plugs? How can I check if I've blown a fuse? I get the same thing with the passenger compartment fuse box. This is the view from underneath the glove box: It's a Black box with 3 big plugs coming out of it. Is this just another layer I need to remove before accessing the traditional fuses we're all accustomed to?
Yourfriendholly posted a topic in GasolineHello ! My Ford Transit Connect is having what I think are electrical issues. Sometimes I go to start the van and it will act as if the battery is completely dead. No clicks of the engine trying to start and I can’t turn on my inside lights. The battery is brand new replaced earlier this year. I definitely am not leaving my lights on or draining the battery. Today I got in to start it after being in a gas station for 5 mins and nothing would come on, even the inside lights. I randomly decided go open my door and then the lights inside turned on . SO WEIRD because using the switch inside didn’t do anything. So I tried to start it and all of a sudden it started (a few clicks almost like it didn’t want to?) . This happened a month ago I thought I left my lights on , went back the next day to jump the battery and it just started . Anyone else had weird issues like this before ??? Every so often a random fuse blows and I can’t get my van to go out of park until I change the fuse. (This happened before the not starting). Thanks for any tips !!!
When I purchased my 2015 Transit Connect Wagon, the dealer said it would be no problem to add a couple extra circuits for accessories at one of the fuse boxes. After working my way through several sales and service staff members, the “wiring specialist” finally determined that what I wanted was not possible since the spare fuse slots have no connections on the load side (see F43 at top left in photo below) and Ford won’t supply the parts to add them. So in the end I had to come up with my own solution. And knowing wiring but not cars, my first purchase was the wiring diagram book. I may not know how everything shown in it works, but I can make sure I only tie into something I can see documented and feel confident I understand. Initially I tried the basic auto store inline fuse holders with converted fuse legs as power taps. Although the connections were pretty good quality, strong silver solder and multiple layers of heat shrink, I didn’t like the holders just hanging loose and there were too many potential failure points. So after some searching I found some parts that make for a nice clean, almost bulletproof, wiring harness for accessories. I’ll apologize in advance for the length of this post up and I'll try to break it up into readable sections with a few photos each. I know I have a tendency to overdo the story telling, but I wanted to share what I learned along the way and why I chose to do it that way in the hopes it helps others with similar projects.
Hi folks, I'm currently converting an 08 LWB Connect into a stealth camper and looking at lighting solutions for the cargo space where I will be cooking and sleeping. I have a 5m coil of 12V 5050 LEDs which will work off the existing connection but will be much brighter than the existing bulbs and hopefully use less battery power (depending on how long I keep the coil obviously) Currently the switch in the cab for the reading light controls both this and the cargo area light simultaneously and they can be set to OFF/DOORS/ON. Obviously I'd like to be able to switch the cargo space lights on independently of the cab light from the back of the van. Is this a simple case of bypassing the cab switch and installing a switch (and in line fuse?) in the rear? If so, what is the best way of bypassing the front switch? I've included a picture of the switch in the cab with the white cable to the right supplying the cargo area light and the fixing for the light in the cargo area. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks K