DonShockley

Been pulled from my 2015 LWB since about week 2 of buying new. Only put back in for about a month while family was visiting a couple years back. I was planning a van custom order for my next purchase but the whole "classified as commercial" means extra loan and insurance hassles I haven't felt like messing with. Plan was to put the seats back in once I had both and just switch vehicles as appropriate.

Meanwhile, in a shed in Texas ...........

How is that any type of a van / wagon? Just another hatchback car. I know our TCs are based on a car's power train, but the practicality is all in the body style and resulting roomy interior. That thing looks even smaller than my old RAV4 when it comes to usable space. If that's the direction Ford is going with the TC, I might have to start looking more seriously at the alternatives.

Here's a copy/paste from the manual for my 2015 XLT. Note: if I remember correctly I think I had to do something slightly different when I disabled it on mine. I think I had to use the lock and unlock buttons respectively instead of using lock button only for different lengths of time as the procedure says. It's been several years so I don't recall exactly other than it took several tries and a trying slightly different buttons once I was in the programming mode (after step 5) before I finally got it to work. Auto lock and Auto unlock Feature (pages 56-57) Auto lock The Auto lock feature will lock the doors and liftgate when all of the following conditions have been met: • All doors are closed. • The ignition is on. • Your vehicle is moving at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than two seconds. Auto unlock The auto unlock feature will unlock all the doors when all of the following conditions have been met: • The ignition is on, all doors are closed, and your vehicle is moving at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than two seconds. • Your vehicle has come to a stop and you switch the ignition off or to the accessory position. • The driver door is opened within 10 minutes of you switching the ignition off or to the accessory position. Note: The doors will not auto unlock if your vehicle has been electronically locked after the ignition is turned off and before the driver door is opened. Enabling or Disabling Auto lock and Auto unlock Note: An authorized dealer or you can carry out this procedure. To enable or disable these features, do the following: 1. Switch the ignition on. 2. Press the power door unlock button three times. 3. Switch the ignition off. 4. Press the power door unlock button three times. 5. Switch the ignition on. The horn will chirp indicating your vehicle is in programming mode. Auto lock: Press the power door lock button for less than one second and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. Auto unlock: Press the power door lock button for longer than two seconds and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. After programming the feature, switch the ignition off. The horn will chirp once indicating programming is complete. Note: You will have 30 seconds to complete the procedure. Note: You can enable or disable the auto unlock feature independently of the auto lock feature.

I always thought this one looked neat if I ever had the need for one. I keep it bookmarked on Amazon $290 https://trucktentcenter.com/rightline-gear-110907-review/

My first attempt just used legs cut off spare fuses and parts from the auto parts store. But then I found the parts to make the much nicer and more permanent setup shown above. Here's the old one I took out that went all the way to the front along with the new one I made to serve the rear. I think I may still have the old bundle laying around somewhere. If I can find it, it's yours if you want it.

I just used some taps to tie in to unused fuse spots in the auxiliary junction box in the rear of my 2015 LWB. I used these instead of tapping in to closer wires just to minimize the chances of damaging any existing circuits, modules, etc. I figure the existing design is already made to supply power at these spots so if I keep my add-ons under the same limits as the "missing" factory options then there is almost no chance of damage. I did end up using an extra wiring panel at the front for convenience since I added several small circuits, but direct wiring one or two would would work just as well. That's what I did for my rear camera.

I seem to recall a post from somebody a year or so ago with a heating issue and it turned out that a piece of ducting leading to the rear was missing. It was letting the air blow out under the front instead of making it all the way to the rear discharge vents. I seem to recall some photos or diagrams of the ducting being shown. It's possible a duct section got knocked loose during your earlier work and the heat is collecting under the center console instead of blowing into the cab. I'll try to find the post and I will add a link if I do. Edit: Found it, here's the photo and the link:

I've carried a spare house and car key in my wallet for years. I make a credit card sized sandwich with plastic and 3M VHB tape. Here's a photo of my current carry with kydex. But in the past I just used simple thick clear plastic cut from some clamshell packaging.

You may have the QuickClear option on the front windshield. I don't have it on mine, but I have seen others describe it as a fine grid of wires that becomes visible under some conditions. It's a heater to clear the windshield just like rear windows have had for years. But it's a larger quantity of smaller wires for better visibility. Seems like some people don't really notice it and other people can't help but see it.

No guarantees but it looks like it may be Part #: 6125040 https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/doors/bumper-side-door-stop-6453361-1

That Amazon listing makes it difficult to tell since it looks like only the first photo is specific to the TC. But zooming in on that photo looks like it has a bar that comes up from the bottom to tighten. The TC rails are a little misleading at first appearance on where they actually tighten. The groove in the outside edge seems like that's where it's anchoring. But in reality it's real strength comes from a small lip that's sort of undercut on the inside face. The Ford OEM rails do a double action as they are tightened. The pinch the rails between the inside and outside pieces, but the main anchor force comes from the 90 angle piece moving under the lip on the inside of the rail and then being pulled up to tighten. Here's a photo of the ends on the Ford OEM rails.

Welcome! Looks like your first post turned out fine.

I knew the TC was the perfect fit for my needs as soon as I saw one. A first gen model was turning into Lowes as I was leaving and I said to myself "That's what I've been looking for!" then turned around and found where they parked so I could see the make and model. The first gen was a bit too commercial with not enough daily driver comfort features so I waited until the second gen came out with those extras and got a 2015 LWB Wagon. Took the 2nd and 3rd row seats out since it's just me. I'm so satisfied that I'm starting to look at getting a second one now that the wagon is paid off. I'm starting to do the research on special ordering a van so I can get the wagon features I like (liftgate, tow package, etc.) since dealer stock vans typically are still stripped down commercial models. And I plan to keep the wagon and put the seats back in, unless they offer way too much as a trade in. That way, I've got a backup and I can just leave the seats in and switch back and forth as needed. Unless something drastically changes in either my life situation or in future vehicle offerings, I see myself sticking with Transit Connects from here on out.

Just pull it out and it will do just that. That's what I did to flush the line before I reinserted the cleaned out nozzle. Of course you would to leave the cover flipped open or drill a hole in it for it to actually work. Make it better by adding some bright yellow dye to to your washer fluid.

To me the lever always seemed backwards. I know the reason it works the way it does is so that it matches other cars with front washers only. But personally it seems more logical to move the wash lever towards the front to wash the front window and move it towards the back to wash the back window.

I didn't think to make note of what direction mine was pointing before I removed it. I just assumed pointed towards the center was the correct alignment for now. I'll probably do some testing on my days off later in the week to try to figure out the best positioning. And I don't know if I may have distorted the spray pattern when clearing the clog since I had to push pretty hard and dig a low with the needle.

It's the washer nozzle for the rear window wiper on my 2015's liftgate. It stopped working a couple years back but I didn't need it that often and tended to forget about it once the weather improved. And I was avoiding what I assumed would be a major disassembly issue just to get the nozzle loose so I could dip the tip in something to dissolve the buildup causing the clog. If I had only known how simple the job was, I would have done it in the rain !!! First just pull on the end of the cover to flip it open for access. Then just grip the end and pull. Then it was easy to take it into the house for cleaning. A needle, some vinegar, and a couple dips in the HF ultrasonic cleaner did the job. Also flushed out the line by triggering the spray with the nozzle removed just in case there was some debris inside. When you put it back in, point it straight up, it doesn't rotate with the wiper arm. The just push the cover closed. Simple once you know and actually a pretty good design. Of course, I couldn't find any mention of such a simple cleaning procedure in my owner's manual when I looked at the time i first noticed the problem. I feel stupid for postponing it so long, now.

I had a small but annoying problem, all caused by this little part. Recognize it? But I hadn't tackled the fix because I figured, given how little thought manufacturers usually put into DIY maintenance, that disassembly to fix would be a major pain.

Here's the diagram from the wiring manual for my 2015 TC.Looks like it should be right behind or below the center screen.

Year ago I had a problem with F150 where it would just randomly stop running as I was traveling down the road. Towed it to the dealer, no problem found, pick it up, less than a mile down the road dies again. Eventually figured out it was "loose" bolt holding the engine ground to the frame that the dealer tightened. A few weeks later, dies again. At least now I knew how to get it running again so I could get home. Checked more thoroughly and found it was to a painted frame with the only connection via the bolt threads and they were stripping out. Dremeled the paint off so there would be a direct cable to frame path and also replaced the self tapper bolt with a stainless bolt, nut, and lock washer and never had a problem again. I might have to do a little proactive Dremel work again based on this post. Maybe use a little of that protective battery terminal spray too.

My 2015 had it in the glove compartment at delivery. Now it's in the compartment under the passenger's seat, along with all the lock nuts since I had the dealer order replacements as part of the sales deal and they took them off shortly after delivery. It also doesn't really look much like a key. Here's photos of mine so you can see what you're looking for. (Assuming your 2019 is same as my 2015). I knew right away that I didn't trust thos little tiny ridges not to strip when I really needed them.

That's even better than my wagon since it doesn't have the fixed/roll down split in the middle. I'm definitely adding the 2nd row window options when I do my custom order on a TC van in the next couple years. A few weeks back a coworker was riding in my TC for the first time as we went to lunch. A little ways down the road he suddenly starts looking all around then comments on how great the visibility was and it's like there's nothing but windows. Personally, I really like the huge rear window in the liftgate. When using the rear view mirror it's like there's nothing there at all since I've removed the 2nd and 3rd row seats so absolutely no obstructions in the way.

Not a lawyer, but here's a link to the Washington State lemon law section: https://app.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=19.118.041 (1) Looks like they get 40 days once you send a letter to MANUFACTURER requesting they replace or repurchase (2) Looks like they get 2 tries for a serious safety defect, 4 tries for a "nonconformity", or it's been out of service for 30 days or more. (3) Talks about coverage for motor homes (4) Manufacturer is liable, not the dealer Again, that's just my reading as a layman. I have absolutely no real legal knowledge.

I*'m just guessing here, but lots of the optional items and even routine things like door locks and window switches rely on individual modules scattered around the car to accomplish those tasks. You would think they would just have a master wiring harness and you could just attach the needed modules, sensors, etc. to get the features you want. But it appears that's not how they build them. If it's not a factory feature on your individual vehicle, they leave all the wires and interconnections out entirely. They probably save a whole $50 in parts cost doing it that way. Replacing sensors if all the underlying hardware and connections are in place is easy. Adding all the extra wiring, connectors, and modules on a fully built vehicle can be nearly impossible. Here's the section from the wiring manual on my 2015 where you can see all the stuff that's needed in between the bumper sensors and the speaker to make it all work. Plus there's ususally some software changes needed to control it all too.