DonShockley

I've noticed that on the wiring diagrams for a lot of the TC controls, much of the switching is done in the modules and the switching is done by completing a circuit to ground. Normally I am used to seeing switching done on the power supply side of a circuit and a short to ground does tend to trip the circuit protection. With this switching on the ground side of the circuit, I can see where a bad wire or other component intermittently shorting to ground could be interpreted by the modules as intentional control switch operation. And if the normal switch to ground doesn't trip the protection, then neither would a short to ground in the same area of the circuit.

One issue may be the difference between the key fob security for operating the locks which I believe is just a coded radio signal, and the security key itself which I believe relies on a special chip inside the metal key itself. An aftermarket key may not have the chip in the metal key that will allow it to start the car due to the anti-theft not being satisfied, even if the signal from the plastic fob can unlock the door. There is a seperate programming procedure for getting the Passive Anti-Theft system to recognize the security keys themselves that is seperate from just programming the fob to operate the doors. The following procedure is from my 2015 manual, starting on page 59. "Programming a Spare Integrated Keyhead Transmitter You can program your own integrated keyhead transmitter or standard SecuriLock coded keys to your vehicle. This procedure will program both the engine immobilizer keycode and the remote entry portion of the remote control to your vehicle. Only use integrated keyhead transmitters or standard SecuriLock keys. You must have two previously programmed correctly coded keys and the new unprogrammed key readily accessible. See an authorized dealer to have the spare key programmed if two previously programmed correctly coded keys are not available. Read and understand the entire procedure before you begin. 1. Insert the first previously programmed correctly coded key into the ignition. 2. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 3. Switch the ignition off and remove the first correctly coded key from the ignition. 4. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of switching the ignition off, insert the second previously correctly coded key into the ignition. 5. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds. 6. Switch the ignition off and remove the second previously programmed correctly coded key from the ignition. 7. After three seconds but within 10 seconds of switching the ignition off and removing the previously programmed correctly coded key, insert the new unprogrammed key into the ignition. 8. Switch the ignition from off to on. Keep the ignition on for at least six seconds. 9. Remove the newly programmed correctly coded key from the ignition. If the key has been successfully programmed it will start the engine and operate the remote entry system (if the new key is an integrated keyhead transmitter). If the key was not successfully programmed, wait 10 seconds and repeat Steps 1 through 8. If you are still unsuccessful, take your vehicle to an authorized dealer. Note: You can program a maximum of eight coded keys to your vehicle. All eight can be integrated keyhead transmitters."

Here's the link for the entire pdf for the trailer wiring install instructions if you need it. This covers multiple vehicles, the Transit Connect section starts on page 20 of 50. It shows you where and how to remove various trim pieces also. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/Trailer_Harness_1_28_15v2.pdf

There is a pass through from the engine bay at the base of the A pillar. You can access it by removing the A pillar trim and/or the outside black triangular trim piece in front of the mirrors. Here's a screenshot of the wiring instructions from the trailer tow wiring kit that shows the Ford suggested routing of the power wire from the battery back towards the tow module mounted in the rear. Here is also a photo of where this wiring is coming through on my 2015 TC Wagon when I added some split loom tubing to the power wire for extra protection.

Since I've been running my TC Wagon with the seats removed or down almost continuously since purchase, I've noticed you can actually feel this thermodynamic effect in action. I often work nights so frequently am starting my commute in an oven that's been sitting in the Texas sun all day and cranking the AC. With the huge unobstructed interior volume, I've noticed you can actually feel the cold air from the rear "roll" to the front as you come to a stop after a while travelling at fairly constant speed. It's not often and seems to need just the right set of conditions to be felt, but when it happens it's a very definite slug of heavier cold air being carried forward by momentum as the vehicle slows. When it happens at one particular turn that is about a 120 degree sharp turn to the left, you can even feel it being stronger towards the passenger side as the slug of air moves to the outside radius of the turn..

I've still got a NIB armrest from my 2012 Toyata RAV4. I had planned to take it to an upholstery shop and get it padded out higher since it was a bit too low for my tastes. Never got around to it and traded in the RAV4 for the TC. 3 years later and I also haven't gotten around to listing it on eBay either.

Hold on to em. Might change my mind later and go back stock. And if they-re not at Gen 3 when I get my next TC I can always ftransfer the reflectors if they fit.

Next cheapest found were $115 per side IIRC, from British and US suppliers. Might have found them a little cheaper and with quicker shipping with a lot more searching. And of course salvage yards would be even cheaper. But last time I tried searching the salvage sites I've seen mentioned on the forum, back when this swap was first suggested, I had no luck. Not surprising since Titanium Wagons are probably the smallest section of TC sales so spares from wrecks would be few and far between. Once I found some at a price I was willing to risk, I hit the buy button.

Thanks for those part numbers. I decided I'll go ahead and be the forum guinea pig on these. With the Valeo info I found both for $131 total on eBay so it won't kill me if it doesn't work. It may take a while for shipping from Latvia (eBay estimates a month), but I'll post results once I get them and try to do the swap on my 2015 XLT Wagon.

Went back and looked at my paperwork on the extras I wanted included in the purchase deal. The dumb key was actually $27, the $10 was for the standard lug nuts to replace the locking ones.

I have an extra dumb key for my 2015 in my wallet. But due to the special nature of the TC keys, it had to be bought and cut at the dealership. I know the first gen used a different style, but it's likely available those too. Just ask for a non-transponder key and they should be able to get one. Mine was around $10 IIRC and I made sure to include it in the purchase deal even though my TC included the two extra fob keys.

I keep a dumb key in my wallet. It won't start the car if I loose my regular set, but it will get the door open just in case I accidentally leave the key in the ignition as I get out. I've only ever had to use it once.

It took me a bunch of tries to get the timing right and get it to work, and yes you have to do the full sequence. I don't know why they made the last two steps seperate paragraphs instead of step numbers 6 (a&b) and 7. And if I recall correctly, somewhere in there I thought maybe there was a typo and maybe I was supposed to be pushing the unlock button instead of the lock button for the unlock procedure. I thought that might be why it wasn't working, so I tried it that way too. I forget when it actually worked. But my neighbors must have thought I was nuts constantly pulling in and out of my parking area and driving up and down the street in short bursts to test the operation each time I thought I had it disabled.

For me it's a maintenance issue. Assuming you keep your vehicle locked at all times between trips, adding an extra lock/unlock cycle in the middle of each trip will at least double the total number of cycles on the lock mechanism. If you keep your vehicle in a garage and keep it unlocked at home, it will be even more than double the number of cycles. Any mechanical device is going to be more prone to failure with additional cycles, although sometimes too infrequent use can also be bad. If you minimize the number of cycles, it's likely you are also minimizing the chances of failure during your period of ownership.

Here's the instructions from my 2015 TC owners manual: Enabling or Disabling Auto lock and Auto unlock To enable or disable these features, do the following: 1. Switch the ignition on. 2. Press the power door unlock button three times. 3. Switch the ignition off. 4. Press the power door unlock button three times. 5. Switch the ignition on. The horn will chirp indicating your vehicle is in programming mode. Auto lock: Press the power door lock button for less than one second and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. Auto unlock: Press the power door lock button for longer than two seconds and release. The horn will chirp once if disabled or twice (one short and one long chirp) if enabled. After programming the feature, switch the ignition off. The horn will chirp once indicating programming is complete. Note: You will have 30 seconds to complete the procedure. Note: You can enable or disable the auto unlock feature independently of the auto lock feature.

Mike, The power port fits nicely and easily in the filler piece above the lights on the shelf. I added both USB power ports and 12v outlet there when I modified my overhead shelf. And for my dashcam I was able to skip the adapter and use just a USB cable for power.

If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.

The manual for my 2015 Wagon has this caution on page 243.... "Do not raise the spare wheel carrier without the wheel attached. Damage can occur to the winch mechanism if lowered without a wheel attached."

I often wonder how effective some of these safety extras, like DRL or center mount brake lights, are in the long run. I know they draw extra attention when they first come out since drivers aren't used to seeing them. But once they start appearing on a significant portion of the cars on the road, they lose their novelty. And I suspect that once the novelty wears off, most drivers likely become road blind to them and most of the safety benefit probably disapppears. The benefit of always on lights during dusk or light fog would make you more visible to other drivers if you haven't thought to turn on your headlights. But for that purpose, I personally prefer the Auto Headlight sensors. I assume the expert research and programming into when they are and are not needed is better than my decision making. And it's both convenient to use and easy to over ride the sensors to turn the lights both on and off if you decide to. The build option for DRL is not the only time you should be able to choose, they should also make it possible to relatively easily turn the option on or off after purchase.

Although I ended up going a different route when I added extra accessories to my 2015 Wagon, I had considered tapping into the same wiring. One of the neater products I came across in my research was a product called Posi Tap which would seem to make for a much nicer and more reliable connection than most of the typical tap connectors. I never ended up using them so I can't speak from personal experience, but if I have the need in the future, it's what I'll be trying unless I come across something better. https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525137506&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap&dpID=51T5CZNu9-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch And if you need a higher power circuit to tap, that white/red wire in the photo at the bottom of the trailer tow module should be the 12v supply from a 40A fuse. At least that's what my 2015 wiring diagram book shows.

Just guessing here based on apparent location from the photos and looking at the same area of my 2015 Wagon. But it looks like it's right at the back where the exterior track for the door meets the corner light assembly. It might be an adjuster to align one or the other to the body lines of the adjacent metal panel. Hard to tell from the photo without seeing how far back the black area goes. But if the metal screw moves in/out directly it could adjust the mounting for the track cover. If the screw is operating some mechanism under the humped part, and connects just a bit further to the rear, it could pull the corner trim.

Narrower clearance between the rear wheel wells is the primary reason. Also, the third row is flat mounted while the second row mounts to the recessed area with the rear edge supported on the higher portion where the 3rd row seats mount. Even if the 2nd row fit between the wheel wells, the brackets on the second row wouldn't have any support right where all the weight is when in the raised position.

This guide may help some: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2011_Transit_Connect_v1.3.pdf Looks like the black portion is a drop in cover for the seat recess so should be clear underneath. (page 7)

I use a similar inflator except mine has an analog gage. What I like is not having to hold everything in place. The chuck locks on and you can stand up fairly straight, just squeeze to inflate, pause and check the pressure, add more or deflate as needed. And only once the pressure is correct, disconnect and move to the next tire.

There's an SW911 seatbelt cutter and a safety whistle in there. I started putting them in all my vehicles after an incident I saw in the news when I was younger. An elderly lady got ran off the road by another driver and her car ended up in a large group of bushes just off the road. Police were searching her travel path for a week or so with no luck finding her. Eventually an officer noticed a discolored section of bushes, as the broken branches from the crash started to die off, and investigated. The woman was found, severely dehydrated but alive. She had heard the searchers calling for her just yards away during the earlier searches but they couldn't hear her calling out weakly. The news story mentioned how a whistle and seatbelt cutter would have let her signal for help. In the past I have used the whistle lanyard to attach both to the base of the seatbelt latch. That way they aren't likely to fly too far away in a crash and can be retrieved while still in the driver's seat. When I was working on my TC and saw the unused chamber (for sunglass storage option not included on my TC), I figured it was a good use of this space. The fixed cover was a bit hard to get off, and might be again in a crash, but is doable with just your fingernails. I've debated about adding a pull tab of other aid but have left it alone so far. The label was primarily for passengers but also a reminder for myself. I've been known to accidentally hide things from myself when I put them someplace that makes sense at the time but don't do that same thought process when I go looling for them. I only remember why I put it there after I find it. And since these tools will hopefully never get touched, out of sight out of mind is a real risk. I like the SW911 because it's a versatile prying and cutting tool but the design, blunt tip and rounded serrations, shows it is not intended to be used as a weapon. In the event of a traffic stop or other police involvement I want it as obvious as possible that this is a safety tool and not a weapon. That's part of the reason I hesitate to add a tab to make access easier. The more difficult access, and the label, hopefully demonstrates that it is not intended to be a hidden weapon. https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Wesson-SW911-Response-Rescue/dp/B0002AWQWS https://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B000A20X32?th=1