DonShockley

Bright yellow adjuster right on top. One of the best designs for ease of adjustment I've come across. And the knob takes hex keys or has screwdriver slots in the bottom of the hex recess. Here's a photo of it on my 2015 TC

The biggest reason I didn't go that route was to minimize the risk of damage to the existing systems. This newer wiring / control system uses a lot of distributed modules and low power signals that are more susceptible to overloading damage. Running power from an unused high power fuse tap ensured that risk of damaging the main CPU or any of the aux modules was minimal. BTW, I did go back and add a power port too. Haven't needed it yet, but at least it's there now.

Yes, you will need to run seperate power up there. Personally, I added an accessory source behind the glove box that I tapped for power. But there is a convenient pass through to the engine compartment to run a wire directly to the battery. It's at the base of the A-pillar, behind the foam you can see in the second post / third photo of the write up I did for this project a couple years ago. I have both a 12V outlet and a USB power source for dashcam, etc. up there.

Personally, I see a couple drawbacks the the Yeti. Primarily the proprietary battery packs and questionable ability to get replacements in the future. BTW: the 10-12 months mentioned earlier seems to be talking about the standby time without self discharge of the li-ion batteries, not the life of the pack itself. Although I don't have need of portable power, I did see something that might work better. Of course each solution has it's own advantages and disadvantages and which is best will depend upon your particular needs and use scenario. You could get the same power capacity for only $1300 with the Dewalt Power Station and eight replacable DCB609 Batteries (9Ah @ 20v = 180 Wh). The same $2000 would give you 50% more run time with 4 more batteries. The overall max capacity is acually larger at 1800W, and runtime limited only by number of easily replacable batteries you have charged. And there is a DC powered charger for the batteries that would work with the solar panel. The manual available online doesn't show a way to power the whole station directly from the solar panel, but it will charge 4 batteries at a time (3 hrs to full) when connected to AC power. So it would only take 6 hrs to charge the two sets of 4 batteries as opposed to 25 hrs on the Yeti. And since the dewalt batteries are the standard ones used for all their power tools, they are sure to be available in the future if one goes bad after a few hundred recharge cycles. And it would be much cheaper to replace just one instead of the whole pack. Another couple comparison issues to consider: One potential issue is new engineering. The Yeti battery pack looks like new engineering with relatively untested design and longevity. The Dewalt batteries are already several years old with millions being tested daily for reliability. Second, since the Dewalt system uses tool batteries they could be used for that purpose if you have/puchase the tools needed. And there are a lot of varied tools using these batteries, some of which might also be useful when camping. Here's a demonstration video for the Dewalt Power Station

On the SWB, the second row seats flip forward against the back of the front row. On the LWB, the second row seats partially fold into a recess in the floor. The third row fold flat against the floor and has panels that flip to cover the gap between the first and second rows so the end result is a totally flat surface about 6 inches above the actual floor with both rows folded. On the wagon, there are trim panels covering the wheel wells, the AC ducts, and the wiring along both walls. On my 2015, the distance between the panels is about 47 inches and the distance from the second row at the headrest to the liftgate is about 45 inches. Here's the most recent Body Builder's Layout Book which has diagrams that you can see the seats and floor layouts with lots of dimensions: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf

A simple but more permanent and drastic solution, AND NOT ONE I WOULD RECOMMEND, would be to cut and cap the power wire to the sensors. I only mention it because I know some people are more willing to go the quick, simple, but harder to repair route than I am comfortable doing. Here's the wiring diagram for my 2015. The power wire for my 2015 is the Blue-White one on pin 5 of the connector.

There is a connector for the sensors behind the passenger side rear wheel that you could try disconnecting. That may work to silence the alarm but may give a failure warning. Just guessing here, not an expert. If you do disconnect it, make sure to protect the ends against moisture since you won't have the water seal anymore. Here's some photos of my 2015 showing the connector. The live end of the connector could probably be moved back to the interior of the vehicle through that grommet you see the flat trailer wire coming out of in the photo. You could also remove the sensors from the bumper entirely to protect them, but that would leave holes. Or you cold do a halfway solution and disconnect the wiring only at the individual sensors being triggered if it's just the hitch step in the middle triggering the center sensors and not the entire bumper length triggering them all. You can see the sensor connectors and how they are just held in by plastic tabs in the photos.

Grounding in the headliner should work fine.

Probably since they are the same generation / design. But I can't say so from personal experience.They do make some changes year to year but probably nothing big enough to change the floor physical layout.

Here's how I did it. Rather than trying to change my sockets to switched, and since I was needing the power in the overhead shelf area instead of down low on the console, I added extra connections to the overhead shelf and tapped the power from spare switched fuse locations. For convenience, I added a small accessory fuse box behind the glove box. Then used that for all my future add-ons. The link below is for when I added USB outlets, but at the end added an additional 12V sockets. That topic has links to the other stages of the build.

Found it! IIRC, the large grey one was for the microphone. The smaller black single and double connectors were the ones for the light, similar to the earlier center light photo I posted with them connected. The black loom is the power wires I added.

Looks like there's a ground on that 9040 connector. And here's the drawing for the front area lights. I'm still trying to locate a photo from my earlier build showing the connecter I had to pull apart to remove the shelf.

OOPS, looks like I misunderstood your original post. I thought you were looking for one to fit the optional shelf behind the front seats. I realised my mistake when you mentioned the visors. I had the entire shelf removed in mine when I added USB and power ports to the overhead shelf. The connector the the light there was right inside the recess behind the raised portion i the center. It's possible yours doesn't have it due to the moonroof / suroof controls mentioned in the description for that C9040 connector in the same area. It might be hard to tap those wires for the right signal. It looks like the manual switch uses a ground wire and a door switched wire to activate. While the C903/908/932 just have power and dimmer circuit connections.

Looks like all 3 connectors for the roof open wiring are a connector with a single row of 6 terminals, at each light.

AHHH! Give me a minute and I'll post some pics of the pages for the wiring pages for cars with the roof opening....

I don't know if any of this will be of any help since it's from my 2015 XLT and wiring book. Although not an exact match, it looks like the closest similar connector is the one labeled C936 in the 2015 diagrams. In the 2015 it's a 6 pin connector (2 rows of 3) instead of the single row 5 pin connector in the photo above. But if that's it and it's in a similar location as the 2015, it should be in the headliner above the passenger seat headrest. My XLT has two headliner panels joined in this area.

I used to buy component LEDs from them back around 2008 or so when the only way to get a really bright LED flashlight was to build one. Never had a problem back then and the LEDs were good quality.

I would think carefully about where you use spray foam, assuming you mean the DIY stuff in the single can. It doesn't work well if sprayed into sealed areas like metal or plastic cavities. I learned the hard way that the foam needs tobe able to "off gas" freely or the pressure builds up and the foam collapses and reliquifies. If sprayed into enclosed areas through small access points, the foam sets first at the openings which prevents the gas escaping the foam underneath so the pressure builds back up. The end result is either a hard solid mass of collapsed foam settled in the low spots, or if the seal is very good the foam liquid can spill out later and refoam if you cut into the sealed area. I had this happen on a project where I initially used the foam outside and then brought it inside to finish. The foam spilled all over the floor when the sealed pocket was drilled into. If you need to fill large voids with the DIY foam, make sure there is plenty of expansion room for the foam, let set for at least a day, then trim back and seal the surface with wood, drywall, etc. If you need to fill a sealed area, you need to try to find a kit that generates the foam by mixing two different chemicals. Those foams shouldn't suffer from the pressure buildup and foam collapse problem since it's a chemical reaction that creates / sets the foam.

The pins may have been on the third row seats instead of the second. Thinking back 2 years ago I just recall initially thinking I had missed some bolts when it seemed stuck as I initially tried to lift it out. But it was because I was pulling at a bit of an angle and the pins were jamming in place. Once I lifted straight up to get the pins clear, it came right out.

I have mine on the floor just in front ot the drivers seat. I have the seat positioned all the way to the rear and rarely need to adjust it so there's room right in front of the slide adjustment handle. The extinguicher was bought at an auto parts store so the supplied bracket included coarse velro intended to grab the carpeting. It works well at holding it in place yet can be easily removed if I do need to move the seat.

My 2015 LWB TC is dead flat with both second and third row folded. And I just have the weathertech mat now, although for the first 2 years I had the seats fully removed and a more solid plywood and rubber floor installed. One potential cause of the seats staying 2" high may be not being fully latched in the lowered position. You should need to give it a little push down at the end to get it to latch, And there's a bit too much play in the mechanism as it is lowered so sometimes you need to move it slightly to get the latch to line up correctly. If you can lift the seat back up without pulling the handle, your seat latch didn't engage. If you want to see the results with the seats removed you can check out the thread where I documented my project. It will get you an extra 6" of cargo height. If you have someone to help swap seats and plywood floor, it takes less than 30 minutes to do the swap and just takes 4 bolts per seat. It's a bit harder for me alone, but still doable. Wrangling a 4x7 foot sheet of plywood in and out is a bit of a challenge for one person.

Not quite what you are looking for, but about the only similar thing I've found for the TC. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2016/2016_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf

This is the source I was looking at when I considered adding similar rails to my 2015 TC http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-Straps-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware

You need both of these Ford Accessories for the full tow hookup. Hitch and wiring kit are seperate. I had it done on my 2015 as part of the purchase deal. https://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/transit-connect/2017/exterior/trailer-towing.html One note: the hitch replaces the stock rear bumper support. So if you think you'll ever remove the hitch, make sure to get the removed bumper support returned to you after the install. I didn't find out that part until several weeks after the job, so my bumper support was long gone. I don't plan to remove the hitch, but it would be nice to have the parts if needed.

I took both second and third row seats out of my 2015 TC. Just four T50 bolts per seat. Third row has one bolt at each corner. Second row has two bolts at the front of each seat side rail. No tricks on the third row other than sliding the seat forward and back to access the bolts at each end. Second row just remove bolts with seat unfolded, then fold down and latch seat before trying to remove. There is a locating pin on the bottom of each rail, so pull straight up until that pin is out.