DonShockley

Lots of good projects shown in the Photo Gallery(link available at top of page). If something looks interesting, there's usually a longer post with details by the same member.

I got this grey dashtex one from Dash Cover Connection on eBay

I ended up in the same boat. Bought all 3 rows from GT covers at $200+ per row. When I removed the second and third rows to install the covers I liked the extra space so much they never got reinstalled. So I've got 2 week old seats with $400 in seat covers that have never been sat on just sitting in the shed waiting on my next trade in.

There are DIY ways to tap into circuits, they are just not as bulletproof as the Ford approved method. Although using simple tap connectors can have their own risks, some of the newer style connectors seem designed to minimize the risks while still being usable for DIY work. Since the taps needed for the Ford wiring kit install are all internal and both accessible and protected behind the trim panels, waterproofing and damage resistance of the DIY taps may be sufficient if done carefully and properly. Personally, I try to avoid permanent taps and am very good at soldering if it's needed. But sometimes tight quarters or short wires can actually make it more of a hatchet job to do solder & recover job instead of just the careful use of a tap connecter. I don't know as I would have paid for dealer install of my hitch if it hadn't been part of the purchase deal on my 2015. After seeing the relative ease of installation, I would have tackled the job myself if the alternative was a couple hundred for a dealer install.

The Ford Accessory Wiring Kit I had installed in my 2015 Wagon doesn't use the factory trailer fuse location even though I do have the rear cargo fuse box. The Ford kit connects at the High Current Junction Box that's on the front side of the battery box under the hoood. The wiring instructions were hard to find and the original source I used no longer has the file available. And my copy of the file is to big to upload directly on the forum, so here's a link to the file in my Google Drive account: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2no1NZQbXg0b19VUXNGSUMxdVU The instructions cover multiple vehicles and the Transit Connect section is about in the middle of the file. And here's some pix of the wiring controller and power supply attachment in my 2015.

Here's how I use mine

It looks like the previously uploaded pdf files may have disappeared during the forum changes a few weeks back. I reloaded the files back into the previous posts. They seem to be working now, at least when I tried. Let me know if there are still problems and I can email them if you need.

GT Covers in silver waterproof Endura

I installed a plywood deck and rubber matting with storage bins where the second row folds down. Here's the thread where i detailed the process, complete with photos and a pattern for cutting the plywood to fit.

It fits, but not as smoothly as with the seats installed. I bought the full WT set for my 2015 LWB wagon and tried using the cargo mat after I removed the seats. If all you care about is does it reach the edge and protect the carpet, then it works fine. But the trim is a bit narrower in the area normally occupied by the folded seats. So the mat is slightly too wide once you remove the seats. The edges will curl up a bit more along the sides. Then there's the mounting plates for the seats. They'll create a hump in the mat. Here's a photo of the WT mat in place before I did my conversion. And here's how I did the conversion. BTW: I still have my 2015 cargo mat rolled up in the box since I didn't end up using it once I did my conversion. If you haven't bought one for your 2016 yet, I'll sell mine for half price plus shipping. And here's another photo I found that shows the lumps and bends a little better.

I had done this before when the the recall was first mentioned a while back and did the VIN entry method again when this issue posted and both times the NHTSA site said no recalls. But when I read manufacture dates in the recall notice posted above, my 2015 TC seems to require a fix. Not sure why the NHTSA isn't showing one, just another government colution that doesn't actually work as promised. I guess I'll need to keep a closer eye out here and manually check my vehicle against the recall notices instead of relying on the NHTSA VIN checker.

I have a 2015 Wagon and it was possible to ge an almost perfectly flat floor with the seats folded properly. Sometimes the seat latch doesn't quite hit cross bar to lock in the folded position and that could cause the seat to stick up slightly. But lifting it back up and pushing slightly forward or back as you push it back down will get the latch to hit and lock. And 250# should be no problem in most instances. The only real weak spot was the "flip over" section that spans the gap between the second and third row seats when folded. Too much of a point load in this area could damage the relatively unsupported panel. The rest of the panels are fastened to the seat frames and seem much stronger. Although in the end I ended up removing the seats entirely, I do think the TC has one of best implementations of a flat cargo area for a vehicle that still has rear seating. The operating sequence could use some simplifying but is still very quick to switch between passengers and cargo. And if you ever need to remove the seats entirely, it's just undo 4 bolts per seat base and lift out. I did it in under an hour and most of that time was spent trying to manhandle the second row out by myself. With a second set of hands, easily under 30 minutes.

As somebody who faced a similar dilemma when purchasing my 2015 TC, I think you made the right decision sticking with the van. I researched for weeks and had initially planned on special ordering a Van with the options I wanted. But I did prefer the looks of the wagon interior trim and thought the extra insulation and panels over the bare metal would be a real help with the Texas summer heat. In the end, the instant availability of a Wagon found locally with a decent discount and the features I wanted swung me around to that purchase instead of waiting 6 months or more for a customized Van. And I figured it would be easier to downgrade a Wagon than to upgrade a Van. Looking back, I would make the opposite decision if I had it to do over again. The downgrade is not as practical as I thought it might be due to too much wiring, etc. running in the trim areas. Although I totally removed the seats and installed a flat load floor almost immediately, and rarely actually use ALL that nice cargo volume in the back, I do defitely miss the extra room taken up by all that nice looking trim on occasion. It's a lot bigger than it really needs to be and reduces several of the interior clearances to just under 4 feet, while the Van has clearances just over 4 feet. Although infrequent, that inch or two of missing space can be annoying when trying to bring home handyman supplies. There's really no way to get even a sheet or two of 4x8 drywall or plywood to fit. And even cutting to half sheets is an awkward fit. Even though I have the roof rails and cross bars if I ever was forced to keep 4x8 full sheets, for the normal little projects it's not worth the hassle of the cross bar install and tie down worries. Easier to just do the cut down. But it's times like that where I regret the Wagon decision. If nothing changes in my personal situation or the vehicles available, I'll likely make the next purchase a custom optioned TC Van to replace my current Wagon. I'm not sure if the Wagon will be a plus or a minus on the trade in value at that time. The vans are more widely in demand so a low mileage used one would be an easier sell. But the wagons are rarer so the right buyer would likely offer a premium price for one with totally unused rear upholstery and carpeting. I guess I'll find out in a few years.

There are some pins with an extra rubber grommet at the base that may help with the squeaks: Fort Part #W713297-S300 https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C I used some to replace pins I damaged when popping panels on and off during work on my 2015 TC

That's why I have two, normal front facing and also one on the rear liftgate window. If I am at fault, like a few months ago when I got my first ticket in 25 years by missing the reduced speed sign at the start of a new construction zone along my daily commute, at least I know for sure and don't feel bad about paying the appropriate penalty. But if it turns out that I am not at fault, there's at least some evidence that may help. Of course, some people turn a blind eye to what they don't want to admit. Unfortunately, this can also include insurance companies and the legal system. So it's no guarantee.

I wasn't clear on if you were referencing the Reese hitch in the previous post or the Ford hitch in the thread title. But here's the dealer installation instructions for the Ford hitch kit wiring: (of course the Ford sites didn't provide them, but an online parts supplier did) http://www.partscheap.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/instructions/ford/escape/2015_escape_Trailer_Wiring_SKFT1J_15A416_AC.pdf It covers a couple different vehicles so scroll down to the middle of the pdf for the Transit Connect specifics.

Same here. All these extra features say (If Equipped) and except for the ones that are paid options listed on the window sticker there's no documentation on which are or are not installed/enabled. The up feature also requires a bounce-back feature, presumably for safety to prevent closing against an obstruction like a person's hand or head. Instructions are on page 74 for overriding and resetting this feature. I haven't bothered to try it on mine since except for trying it once when I read it in the manual, I don't use these features.

That's just the install per the instructions. If you want to deviate, you can always just tap on of the unused circuits on the rear aux junction box. That's what I did to supply power to my accessory box. Even though it was closer to the battery, it was easier to run wires from the rear. IIRC the fuse for the tow box was only 15A so it's not like you're going to overload the rear fuse box. If I were going to do it myself instead of letting the dealer do all the work, I would tap the power at the rear. Here's the taps and fuse holder I installed. If you want to duplicate this setup, I can hook you up with a set of the parts fro $20 shipped.

Here's some more pix: The arrow points to the supply tap at the engine junction box. And there's some better pix of the towing module.

I had the dealer include the Ford hitch add on as part of my purchase deal. I saw the work they did when I was adding my own accessory fuse box. The only tough part is getting to the recommended tie in point at the high current junction box in the engine compartment. It's a simple bolt on addition but access is very limited and likely involved removing the air cleaner box at a minimum. The instructions were pretty clear and just a couple taps into the rear tailight wiring. Here's the dealer installation instructions: (of course the Ford sites didn't provide them, but an online parts supplier did) http://www.partscheap.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/instructions/ford/escape/2015_escape_Trailer_Wiring_SKFT1J_15A416_AC.pdf It covers a couple different vehicles so scroll down to the middle of the pdf for the Transit Connect specifics. You can see the tow wire box in this photo from my thread about the work I did. UPDATE: Noticed that earlier link was dead, here's a copy of it that I saved and uploaded. Factory Trailer Wiring Kit - Installation Instructions

It's called Global Opening and Closing. It's on page 75 of my 2015 manual. To open all the windows: 1. Press and release the remote control unlock button. 2. Press and hold the remote control unlock button for at least three seconds. Press the lock or unlock button to stop the opening function. To close all the windows: 1. Press and hold the remote control lock button for at least three seconds. Press the lock or unlock button to stop the closing function.

I just ran out and tried it on mine. Never done it before. Surprise, it turned on. So an intermittent fault is still a possibility. That's why the old stuff was so much easier to troubleshoot, things did or did not operate based on wire connections and components that were easy to check. Now it's all about the programming, which is never fully documented for the layman that's actually trying to use the things.

I did find a reference to the door position switch in the door lock section of the wiring manual. There's a couple different drawings for various options and I don't understand all the abbreviations used so there's now way of knowing if this drawing matches your vehicle, or mine for that matter. But it is probably representative of where the door open/close trigger is coming from. One troubleshooting technique you can try is if the radio doesn't go off when you open the door, try cycling the latch a couple times using a screwdriver. If that turns the radio off sometimes but not others, the switch likely has an intermittent fault. If the door itself has to be slammed shut multiple times before it shuts off, it's likely a loose or faulty connector that has to be moved a bit by the slam before it works. UPDATE: After rereading your post, I noticed the mention of the radio being able to operate at all times. This suggests a continuous issue, not intermittent. That'll be harder to check since you'll need to get inside the door to do some measurements. Disconnect that C525 connector going to the door latch with the door open and check continuity between pins 4 and 6 (on the switch side of the connector). Since the contact should be open with the door open, if you have continuity with the door open then the switch is bad. If that's not the source, the most likely cause is a short in the wiring or a bad Driver Door Module. Of course, with the way these new cars use networking to send signals between the different modules, it could also be a problem with any other module along the way to your radio. But if the only issue you are having is with the radio shutoff, the door switch and module are the most likely culprits. But this only makes sense if my guesswork about how the system works is correct. And that's just based on watching how my radio operates daily. I'm not a car guy and just have general troubleshooting experience from other tech work. Here's some photos to help.

Based on how my radio operates it sounds like your vehicle is not sensing that you have opened the door. My radio keeps playing until the door is opened. If your radio keeps going, it seems as though the system still thinks the door is shut. I took a quick look in my wiring diagram book and didn't see a direct input from the doors to the audio system. So it's probably getting the signal via one of the numerous module communication signals. Maybe a sticky switch or a poor connection somewhere along the line if the problem is intermittent.

I'm new to doing wiring extras on my vehicle so I'm definitely no expert, but frame grounding does seem to be how most auto stuff I've seen so far is done.