DonShockley

I've noticed that several times the people offering the seats were from shops that do wheelchair mods on the TC, you may want to see if there are any of those type shops near you and inquire there.

That's the boat!

If these look like what you mean, and the post size is about right, I can hook you up with a couple free. I have leftovers from when I did my project. But I did have to find the right size existing holes in the bodywork to use. IIRC I got them on eBay because I'm not seeing them in my Amazon history.

r1alvin I know it would be a bit of a drive from Allen down to Belton, but I just reinstalled the seats in mine so I won't need the deck I made. If you want it free it's yours for the taking. Rubber mat, mounting bolts, and installation wrench included. Just let me know if you want it.

(FYI: the guy in the white shorts is the Captain of the sub)

If you mean the seatbelts for the third row, I don't see any way they can be related to the airbags. As you can see in this photo from the work I did in my 2015, the belt mechanism has no electrical connections to it which could provide any kind of signal to the airbags. Just bolted in place. You can also see a bit of the second row belt mechanism in the corner of the photo. Although none of my photos catch it clearly, there don't seem to be wires going to that one either.

E6 Boomer ET here (nuke reactor operator) out of Holy Lock & Kings Bay

You should be able to slide the clips on those plastic tabs with holes shown in the first photo in the second group. You would have to select clip nuts with wider openings, some are very thin and meant to grab sheet metal. Turn the hole into a nut and the broken pin into a bolt and you've got a workable alternative to the original attachment method.

My Gen2 has two main styles of clips. The first kind just has ribs along the length of the fastener and I use the following tool to remove those. It lets you pull the fastener straight out which causes minimal distortion of the ribs and generally allows them to be reused. http://www.harborfreight.com/panel-clip-pliers-67399.html The other style is basically a removable plastic rivet that works like those small plastic wall anchors that splay out as you insert the screw / pin in the middle. I find this tool handy, although gently prying out the pin with a screwdriver works fine. http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pin-pliers-67400.html But the special tools aren't required, they just make it much easier and less likely to damage the fastener. You can see how some of fasteners are built in the photo of my spare parts kit below.

You could always use some of these clip nuts to snap onto the receiving hole underneath. They provide for a fair amount of movement while still not spinning freely which should help with aligning the bolt between the non-parallel hole and trim surfaces. https://www.amazon.com/Clip-On-Nuts/b?ie=UTF8&node=6826021011 Couple that with some oversize button head bolts and it should be a much simpler installation. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Oversize+Button+Head+bolts These are just examples, I've seen small packs of each at the local auto parts stores in the past.

There are areas of the fuse box that are switched power and areas that are constant power. The change could be as simple as getting an inline fuse holder and using it as a jumper wire from a switched supply side unused fuse slot to the existing load side fuse slot for the 12v outlets. It would be a non-permanent install and simple, as long as you put fuse leg ends on the wires. It's possible to tear apart a fuse and solder them on, but I really like the purpose built taps I bought for my add-on accessory circuits. There would be a more permanent way that would look better but would take much more work. It would require popping the wire out of the fuse box spot (pulling it out the back) next to the constant-on buss bars and moving it next to the switched buss bar. There's just a small lock tab that needs to be released but you have to take a lot apart to reach it.

Actually just a case of the same thing twice in short succession. Went 2 years with no need, then had out of state family visit for the first time in years and needed the extra seats. Decided to stay with the cargo option after that visit. Now just a few months later, another out of state family visit (first time meeting the 4yo) needs the seats again. Since I really hadn't needed the extra height or strength gained by my modification, decided to go back to the stock option. It really is a great solution for both purposes. Of course, now that I'm doing it I probably won't have any other passengers for another 2 years.

I ended up needing my seats more and cargo hauling less than I anticipated when I Converted my Wagon into a Van. So I decided to permanently reinstall the seats. As a result, the custom fit flat floor I created is no longer needed. If anybody wants it free and can do local pickup in Belton, TX it's yours. It's the plywood floor, rubber mat, bolts, and even the allen wrench to install/remove it. Drop me a message if you want it.

Back in 2015 when adding extra wiring to my TC, I damaged a couple clips and when I couldn't find matches at the auto parts store I decided to build my own little kit. I got everything from Amazon and eBay. Obviously the eBay items changed but I got them all from the same seller with a good low cost selection. The two most common ones I do have Ford part numbers for. The black ones with the ribs are Part #N801925-S. The white ones with the black rubber ring and spring plastic wings is Part #W713297-S300. Here's the Amazon and eBay links: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098VYUG2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y0O51B0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008427D88/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N477FS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=productcollect&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xpanel+clip.TRS0&_nkw=panel+clip&_sacat=0

My 2015 needed it's regular maintenance recently so when I made the appointment I also asked about the recall since I got the "contact dealer for installation" letter a week before. I was told, no problem we have the parts. But when I went in for my appointment on the 13th, I was told they don't have the parts. Now the story is what I fully expected the first time I asked, demand is high and getting parts for the recall is difficult. At least now (supposedly) "parts are on order for your VIN" and they'll call me once they come in.

This will be slightly different since it's from my 2015 TC wiring book instead of the 2016 provided by Don Ridley earlier. But here is a diagram of the equivalent connector in my 2015. Also, if you look closely at the connector, there is usually some numerical marking of the pins so you may be able to match the earlier schematic that way.

I bought one with that part number for my 2015 LWB XLT and it fit fine.

Well, after goofing off for a year I finally decided to put together some parts kits for sale. These are the parts I used to tap into the existing fuse box to Add My Own Accessory Fuse Box on my 2015 LWB TC Wagon. Although I used these parts to tap into the rear fuse box on my LWB Wagon, the connectors utilize standard mini fuse legs and 1/4" spade connectors so should be nearly universal fit. Each kit provides all the connectors and parts to add 3 fuse protected circuits tapped into existing fuse boxes without the need for permanent modifications. Two taps utilize mini fuse legs to tap into the power side of unused fuse spaces in the fuse box. The third tap uses the protruding 1/4" tab for the larger unused circuit fuses. Since individual projects will dictate the sizing, no wires or fuses are included. However there is an assortment of different size terminals and seals to fit a large range of wires. See the photo below for what will be included in each kit. (Covers are a mix of black and clear, all other parts are identical in each kit) Pricing: First kit is $10 plus $5 to cover (US only) shipping costs, with $1 discount on each additional kit purchased at same time. One kit $15 / Two kits $24 / Three kits $32 / Four kits $39 / Five kits $45 / Six kits $50 https://www.paypal.me/DonaldShockley 15 kits available now, 7 with clear covers, 8 with black covers, I will honor color preference until that color is gone If you lack the tools to crimp your own terminals, I can provide pre-assembled kits with short wires sized and fused for 10A, 15A, and 20A and a screw down terminal strip at the end for easy wire connection. See the photos below for the preassembled kit and how I used a similar installation in my vehicle. Due to the added parts and labor, assembly will add a $15 charge on each kit (i.e. $30 for one kit)

Here's the general Body Builder's site: https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/bodybuild.html And here's the file for the 2011 Transit Connect https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/2011_Transit_Connect_v1.3.pdf

When my new 2015 TC came with wheel locks, part of the written deal was for them to be removed and replaced with standard lug nuts. Years ago I came across a guy stranded on the road because even though he had the key, it was slipping on the locking nut and so no way to fix a simple flat tire. From that day on I swore I would never use them. Part of the reason I wanted it to be part of the deal was that way if there was a problem removing the lock, it was the dealer's responsibility to fix it. Especially when I saw how tiny the little lugs were on the key, I am surprised they don't strip out the first time you try to use it.

Yep!

On my 2015 LWB XLT the microphone is in the overhead shelf. You can see the mic in this photo I took of the removed shelf when installing USB power outlets up there.