DonShockley

Here's the sections from my 2015 diagram and the connectors look to fit that same module. BTW: That taped in diagram on the last photo is a diagram I created by reading the Ford instructions for tha accessory add-in trailer wiring kit and noting where the wires are tapped into the existing circuits. If you look at the top right of that diagram, the S405 connection that I whited out to make room for my sketch is the same S405 connection on page 95-1 of the middle photo and provides the stop signal from the BCM to the module.

I had a similar thing happen with my 2015 shortly after I bought it, although not with the symbols showing up. I had it checked for a broken mount or other failure at the next service and was told nothing was wrong, and it hasn't changed since. I think it might have been an issue with the parts seating during assembly. I'm just guessing here, but it seems like the camera may have been slightly misaligned during assembly and then settled in after a little bit of driving due to road vibration or a couple slam shuts of the liftgate. Then again, the dealer may have just blown me off and never checked it. But it doesn't seem to be shifting any more, so it may be normal.

When I was researching this topic while considering doing a special order before I got my 2015 I was similarly stumped for info. I did find a few references and apparently it's just a small section coming off the existing wiring harness and left tucked away out of sight. But I never could find any specifics or photos. No idea if it's just bare wires or has a connector that can be easily added on to. But apparently it doesn't include the switches and such like the similar option on the full size connects (which I found plenty of info on). I remember thinking that I would need to make sure the dealer showed me it's location upon delivery if I did do a special order, which I didn't end up doing. I suggest you make sure to press the location issue when you get yours. Better to have them popping off panels, digging around, or trying to get the factory to answer the "Where the hell is that thing?" question. And please post photos and any other info you can once you get your vehicle. As far as I recall seeing, you'll be the first user here with any first hand experience with this option.

Here's another excerpt from an article on Popular Mechanics: But here's the simple math for the gas-pumping consumer: The E10 many of us pump (which is 10 percent ethanol) has about 30,500 calories per gallon, while E85 has just 22,900 calories per gallon. And even though E85 contains 25 percent less energy per gallon, it's generally only about 10 percent less expensive. Indeed, owners of flex-fuel vehicles report losing about a quarter of their gas mileage when running on E85, so I think it doesn't make sense to fill up my own car with the stuff at current prices. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/hybrid-electric/a7263/the-one-time-it-makes-clear-sense-to-buy-e85/

According to the Alternative Fuels Data Center of the US Energy department: "1 gallon of E85 has 73% to 83% of the energy of one gallon of gasoline...." https://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf So although it costs 12% more, you are getting 17-27% more energy in your E10 - regular gas. More energy per gallon is almost guaranteed to give you better milage. Higher alcohol content is also more corrosive and absorbs more moisture and the potential damaging effects are why vehicles have to be specifically designed to be able to use E85. Even though they may be designed to be safe for E85, my personal opinion is that I think it would still be less wear/damage to use lower alcohol blends.

Here's the 4 pages from the headlight section of my 2015 wiring manual

The grease is needed. The minimal wear caused by trapped dirt will be nothing compared to the wear without lubrication. When I bought my 2015 the I asked about the preventive lubing of the slide rails and it was suggested I use white lithium spray grease. The nice thing is that it dries to a thin white film that doesn't seem to build up or attract dirt, at least that I can see. I leave the can in the door pocket of the drivers side slider as a reminder to use it. I try to give the rails a spray every couple months on the drivers side and about twice a year on the passenger side since I rarely use that one.

I laid the crossbar in position (not tightened down) for this photo. Ruler still bottomed out in recessed area for rail.

Here's a photo from my 2015 with factory rails. The ruler is bottomed out in the channel for this photo. I didn't have the cross bars between the rails installed, but measuring them seperately adds about 2-1/2" above the rail.

It should just pop off. I accidentally popped it partway off when trying to add some protective loom to the power wire for the trailer module. I just gave it a tap and it reseated. But I didn't ever take it all the way off so I can't speak to what type of connection is underneath.

That's the one I was thinking of getting to replace my existing ratchet crimpers. I have way too many tools. Somebody once asked if there was any tool I didn't have and my reply was "Only the first time." Assorted sources, HF / Craftsman, etc. I tend to go HF on infrequent or one time use items, expecially if they are special purpose ones. It's the only affordable solution for lots of jobs. But quality tools can really make a difference in ease, efficiency, and longevity of repairs.

A second advantage to ratchet crimpers is that the dies used in the ratchet crimpers often do multiple crimps at once. The bare wire connection needs one size/style of crimp and the insulated area of the wire needs a different size/style crimp. For example, the Weather Pack connector has that B shaped crimp on the wire and an O shaped crimp around the weather seal. The cheap scissor style crimper has two holes for doing these crimps in two steps and getting the tool place in the right spot on the terminal makes a big difference. The tool width also has to be sized for the thinnest depth of any of the multiple openings. The die on the more expensive ratchet tool does both crimps at the same time with each being the appropriate type, width, and spacing needed. So you can have deeper crimp areas on larger wires to hold them better, and smaller crimp areas on smaller wires and terminals.

30 years ago I had a tough time justifying the extra cost stepping up from the $5-10 scissor style wire crimpers to the $25 ratchet crimpers. But after being exposed to ratchet crimpers in the Navy (multi-$100 nuke grade ones) I tried the civilian version once I found a pair I could afford as a poorly paid E-4. I wasn't sure if the civ version would perform as well, but it was almost as good as the mil ones. I've been a fan of ratchet crimpers and dedicated dies ever since. Similarly, when I started with the Weather Pack connectors I bought the scissor style crimper for them. But as you mentioned earlier, it didn't do 12 AWG and the two step crimp and poorer fit of the tool made the job harder than it needed to be. Some of my other crimpers were able to get the job done on the larger wires. Once I decided the Weather Pack connectors were something I would like to continue using in the future, I started looking for an appropriate ratchet crimper. I went with the kit since it let me store the assortment of small parts along with the crimper. I actually removed the body parts to another organizer to let me store more terminals in the crimper box. The biggest advantage to the ratchet crimpers is repeatability and reliability. It's easy to over or under crimp when using the scissor style crimpers and it's usually a multi-step crimp. It takes some experience and skill to get consistently dependable crimps. Ratchet crimpers do a better job with a lower skill requirement. Match the wire size / terminal connector / crimper die and you're almost guaranteed to get a good strong reliable connection. My only regret is that I didn't come across those Astro crimpers years ago. All my other ratchet crimpers require removing screws to change dies. These Astro versions just slide into place. I'm giving serious consideration to buying an entire Astro set just for the added convenience, although the metric markings are a drawback. I also became a fan of the die style wire strippers for similar reasons. The full insulation cut without damaging the conductors, along with grip and pull action of the tool, makes that job much easier also. If you only have a small stub of wire accessible in a repair situation, it lets you do the job one handed in tight spots. I've seen the more universal size auto grip strippers but never really used them since I was already hooked on the die style. https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-20010-Precision-Stripper/dp/B01018CVM0/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1503544026&sr=1-12&keywords=wire+stripper

Just found this tool-only set that is cheaper than the full set with terminal parts that I bought. In a way it's better because the case includes an instructional diagram plus both metric and AWG sizes on the spaces where the dies are stored. https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Connector-Terminal-Ratcheting-Crimping/dp/B06XCRS3XY/ref=pd_sim_469_78?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XCRS3XY&pd_rd_r=JFWKEB9NYR3AA27M597D&pd_rd_w=Ojppj&pd_rd_wg=Xxqe0&psc=1&refRID=JFWKEB9NYR3AA27M597D

This is the crimper I eventually ended up getting specifically for the Metri-pack connectors. Although the dies are marked in mm instead of AWG, it will do 12 AWG. https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-9478-Interchangeable/dp/B01CN99TCA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503537765&sr=8-4&keywords=astro+crimper

Here's my 2015:

Fifty150: Nothing needs to be disconnected from the bottom side of the shelf shown in your first photo. I've marked the tabs on the top center piece on top of the shelf in your second photo. If you click on the very first thumbnail at the top of this thread, it will pop up a larger version that shows the center piece unclipped and flipped over so you can see how both sides of the tab clips are constructed.

I used M10-1.50 x 70mm bolts. The fit but were longer than needed. M10-1.50 x 60mm would probably be closer to matching the stock bolts protrusion under the floor. I had to go to the local fastener supply store, not big box DIY store, and special order them. I got ones with countersunk heads that used an allen key for a smoother floor.

It wasn't very difficult to line up the holes to use the existing threaded holes. There are dimensions listed in the pdf drawings in the earlier post. With the larger cutouts in the existing flooring there is room to move the end of the bolt around if there is a slight misalignment of the holes.

The only reference I found in the wiring book for my 2015 TC XLT is direct Video +,-,shield wiring to Sync Module. So it looks like #2 is the setup, not #1.

Nothing with the ECU, but I do notice that radio programming gets confused a lot. I use the Aux input frequently and it seems to mix up the Line In and USB with random effects. Listening on Line in and display shows USB, or just switches from Line In to USB by itself. Last night was a new one, told me Line In couldn't be used while USB was in use. Not sure of the cause and no apparent commonality of occurence. But using button controls to switch to radio and then Sync voice command to get back to Line In or USB has worked each time so far. With new cars being esentially small computer networks on wheels with seperate modules for each function, I'm sure we'll see more and more of these random glitch type of failures. Hopefully, car makers will take a page out of the computer makers playbook and add some kind of protected program image. Rather than be stranded like you were and having a week long repair, at least you could attempt a "Restore and Reboot" when a major program fault is detected.

Here's a salvage yard in Asheville, NC http://www.johnsonncusa.com/

3/4 inch

Here you go:

My 2015 has the 60/40 bench but I pulled the 2nd and 3rd row and put a wood platform covering everything from liftgate right up to the front seats. I found some flat bins at Walmart that could slide in from the sides with the doors open. And the 60/40 seems to have less smooth space than what your photo seems to show so it should work even better there. I had to make some strange shape foam fillers to get everything flat enough to support the bins sliding in and out smoothly. I did a writeup on my mods if you need more details or photos.