DonShockley

There is a seperate control for the rear HVAC and an auxillary heater that is supposed to kick in to help with the rear. I can't speak to it's effect since I never have passengers in mine so my rear controls are always off.

Here's what the floor looks like in a 2015 LWB XLT after you remove the 2nd row bench seats. As you can see, the 60/40 split leaves a wider gap on the drivers side. I'm assuming your 2nd row buckets have equal mounts on either side. But you may be able to see if the bolt holes from the 2015 bench are still present. The front bolts for the seats all atttach to that single crossmember just behind the rubber mat in the photo. And you would also need those black brackets at the rear under the carpeting in the photo. They are just bolted into the flat floor, but they are the latch points for the folding seat.

I did it with my 2015, and no the floor is not flat under the seats.

I had it happen to me when I bought my wagon in July 2015. I have all my personal banking with BofA and they turned down the loan due to being a "Commercial" vehicle. But since I had already almost walked out once, the Wells Fargo financing the dealer finalized the deal with was almost the same as the advertised Ford 1.9 % offer, just 1.99% so close enough for me.

...... Pet Rocks, and digital wrist watches with red LED segmented numerals that you had to cup your hand over to see in daylight.

When I purchased my Wagon I was surprised when Bank of America (the same place I have all my other accounts) rejected the loan because it was for a commercial vehicle. Fortunately, the dealer's supposed lender of last resort gave the same rate on their loan. I was seriously concerned for a while until I got the letter with the reason because I haven't had credit concerns in decades. I was worried there might have been identity theft or something else I didn't know about. You would think that for a non-credit reason like commercial classification they could state that immediately when they issue the refusal. If my current plan holds and I replace my TC with another one, or similar potential "commercial vehicle", I'll be having words with Bank of America before I go car shopping.

I got a more positive reaction yesterday when I went to drop off donations at Goodwill and my TC's twin pulled up at the same time. As the other driver got out, she was looking quizically over at my TC. As soon as I got out and said "LOOK! Twins" she laughed and said it had caught her attention but she wasn't sure why until I said something. She immediately followed up with "Don't you just love these things!" as she came over to shake my hand. Had to snap a photo.

And yet we're still relying on clunky old power adapters that plug into cigarette lighter sockets. It would cost pennies to put in a convenient terminal strip with screw down terminals to hard wire your accessories. And why do we need suction cup and sticky tape mounts to hold our gadgets. How about a standardized rail shape or threaded holes strategically placed in the dash trim. Designed in solutions will generally be better than aftermarket add ons.

Got any photos?

The oval holes make more sense if you think about the difference between the aftermarket rack designs and the factory roof rails. Most aftermarked designs are a pair of side to side cross bars, one fore and one aft. But the factory rails which are permanently installed are longer rails running front to back, one on each side. The oval holes make sense for these long rails if you take into account differential heating and cooling. The roof panels and the rails will expand and contract at different rates if they are different materials.So the rails will effectively be getting longer or shorter in relation to the roof panel they are mounted to. If you don't allow for that slight movement with oval mounting holes, the metal roof will buckle or stretch, or the rails will. You see the oval hole fix used a lot in woodworking where moisture and grain differences produce relative movement that would split the wood. It's less of a risk with the side to side aftermarket rails since the bow of the roof provides plenty of room to flex. It's the extra length and stiffness where the factory rails mount just above the strong door frames that would likely cause a problem. Of course, this is all just a guess on my part.

I didn't even know the TC existed until one drove past me in a Lowes parking lot. The large hospital complex in our town had just started using them. It looked to be exactly what I had been looking for, small enough to be a daily driver but lots of cargo area when I need it. I actually turned around, found where they had parked, and looked to see what make and model it was. That was around 2011-12 and the Gen1 was still a little lacking when I did the research. But I kept my eye on the TC and switched vehicles earlier than I normally do because the Gen2 seemed like a big improvement.

Here's a prior thread on the factory hitch install. It includes some info on the factory trailer wiring add-on, including a lot of photos from the dealer install in my vehicle. The link to the instructions in that thread is dead so here's another link to the copy I made of the pdf. Factory hitch install thread Factory Wiring Installation Instructions pdf (Note: The instructions cover several vehicles, the Transit Connect is in the middle)

A couple lengths of PVC did the trick for me.

This is the most useful tool for removing panels I've bought. Gives much better control over how much force you are applying and exactly where you are applying it. Gets stubborn fasteners loose with much less risk of damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/panel-clip-pliers-67399.html

On this side of the pond their TC competitor is the Mercedes Metris

When I was looking at doing a custom order before I got my 2015, both door styles were available on both body styles. Yes, the starting configuration was barn on the van and lift on the wagon, but barn doors was an available option on the wagon.

I purchased the wagon with the seats and removed them almost immediately. But I decided against trying to sell them because the money gained would be relatively minor and I figured I might lose even more than the sale price when it comes time to sell the wagon on to the next owner.

Harbor Freight has some almost identical tools. Not as extensive a set but only about 1/4 the price. I've used them a lot. http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trim-moulding.html

Once of the stories I saw on this issue when researching my TC purchase mentioned that they just shred the soft goods and recycle the steel on these seats. Seems a waste since they could likely sell them for more than the recycle value.

For me, the deciding factor on the barn door / lift gate decision was the rear window visibility. Backup cameras are great but when you learned to pull out of parking spots by looking out the back window, that small camera screen is hard to rely on. And a test drive on a van with that big double pillar dead center in the rear view limited visibility too much for my tastes. After the fact I've also come to appreciate the shield when you come out of the grocery store to find it raining. It'll cover both you and your cart so you can take your time loading.

I put a backup cam hanging from the trim above the window. I ran a power cord from the rear fuse box to the camera. Side wall trim and top trim on the liftgate all just pulled off. The only tricky part was during reinstallation. There is a little hook tab that links the side piece under the window to the side peice behind the window and it's difficult to keep the hook engaged as both pieces are clicked into place. BTW, removing the weather seal strip makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the panels. And make sure to leave a bit of extra wire between the side wall and lift gate panels since the gap widens as it is opened. Similarly, don't try to put the jump between panels too close to the corner or the small dangling loop that is formed and the gap narrows will catch in the side weather seal as it is closed.

I got lucky on where the laziness manifested on mine. I had 3 different types of screws on the four used to attach the front and rear tags. Fortunately, the correct two were used on the rear and I found the remnant bag in the glove compartment after delivery. I wish I had saved the bag, it may have had a size or part number on it. But the front screws into the plastic were 2 different types with the head on one so small that had the plate not been hanging from the screw so the edge was caught as it was tightened it would have gone right through the slot in the plate. And one was slotted and one was phillips. How are you so lazy to not find matching screws but yet still make the job harder by needing multiple different tools? Since the stock bolts also required a metric socket to remove and I couldn't find matching sized heads on screws to install for the front, I replaced all 4 with stainless steel phillips head fasteners so that you just need one screwdriver instead of a whole tool box just to swap the license plates. It's little design touches like non-matching fasteners that make some jobs a real pain. While chekcing the fastener size I noticed my custom prined plate frames were fading badly so I decided to remove them. While doing the swap I also added a label under the plate next to the screw holes so if I or the next owner lose one the info will be readily available. Hopefully it will also serve as a caution for clueless service techs in the future. Of course it's no guarantee, I've seen people ignore even larger warning signs that were impossible to miss or misread. FYI regarding the earlier mention of taking the car to the dealer for installation: Every new car I've bought here in Texas, the DMV sends the plates to the dealer and they call you a week or so later once they arrive. Alhtough I suppose you could have them remailed to your home, it's usually easier to just go pick them up and the dealers have always offered to install them when I go to pick them up.

M5 x 0.80

Mine doesn't. But The salvage fuse box may have. I'll have to look back at the photos I took before I started tearing into it. I may be able to trace out the wiring differences. I'm working this weekend but my vacation starts mid week so I'll have time to dig deeper then. If I can find the correct area of the box, I may be able to supply you some parts to get started trying the modification.

I did the the USB & Power Point addition to the overhead liner also. The writeup for that project details the routing I used. USB and Power Point in Overhead Shelf