DonShockley

There is a 70 amp fuse at the High Current Battery Junction Box that feeds back to the Auxiliary Junction Box in the rear. So that would be the absolute maximum. 2KW / 12V = 167A so it would not work. With my work, I made sure to stick within the amp limits of existing but unused circuits. For example: I connected the 30A constant power wire to the 40A circuit at F27 and I connected the 3A trigger power wire to the 10A circuit at F38. And the fuses I used in my work were for the lower values, so there should be no risk of overloading the OEM wiring since I am below what the box was designed to handle.

The manual on my 2015 calls for 100 ft-lbs

I look forward to somebody posting the ordering guide .PDF file each year. It's so much more useful than the website Build & Pride feature. You can see at a glance which models include the features you want. The website makes you start with the model, which might make sense if appearance is your first priority, and you never even see some features that may only be available on other models. I was started down the custom order path for a van model when I came across the 2015 order guide and found that I could get most of what I wanted by buying a wagon model. The Ford website needs to show the full grid of model vs. feature info included in the order guide to help shoppers reach a decision. Or at the very least, provide a download link for the .PDF file. It gives more info in one spot than hours spent custom configuring multiple models on the website.

I think they mean what I'm used to calling reading lights. The connector diagram in the book shows the location to be in the middle of the overhead console.

When I was comparing models prior to my purchase, the one advantage I saw on the SWB was the flip up second row seating. For me the extra length and flat floor with both 2nd and 3rd rows down was more attractive. But for somebody else I could see where the SWB easier flip up mechanism and additional vertical space gained would be an advantage over the extra horizontal length on the LWB.

I ordered mine from PartsCheap.com and it was the one listed for the Escape. It fit my 2015 TC LWB XLT Wagon just fine. https://www.partscheap.com/2013-2016-Ford-Escape-Recovery-Hook-p/6m2z-17a954-a.htm

The bolts in my 2015 Wagon were standard M10 x 1.50 bolts. Although the big box DIY stores didn't carry them, the local Bolt & Hardware specialty store had them in stock. The 2010 may be a different size, but is still probably metric. This type of thing is where local purchase can beat internet, most specialty store clerks can help you find the right thing by measuring the mounting hole or just trial and error with an assortment of bolts. When I needed special counter sunk heads to mount a plywood floor in my TC, it still only cost $10 and 3 days wait to special order a 5 pack of the bolts I needed. Fastenal is a good industrial hardware supplier and they have a store in Santa Cruz, CA https://www.fastenal.com/home

My 2015 LWB TC Wagon was easily long enough and flat enough with the seats folded to allow sleeping. But I wanted to maximize cargo space so I removed them entirely. With the front row fully to the rear and all 2nd and 3rd row seats removed, you'll have 7ft in length at floor level tapering to 6ft3in at headrest level. Narrowest point on width at floor level is 45", and height to headliner is 45" too. If you leave the seats in, you'll loose about 6in of height. Here's a photo of my 2015 LWB XLT with seats out and plywood/rubber floor added to cover the seat gap.

I hate having to redo jobs. My goal was to do it once so I never have to think about the trim getting pulled off at the car wash, etc. Hopefully I'll never have to do it again before I trade the TC in on my next vehicle. And right now, loose trim is a bit of a pet peeve due to my job. Every year just before the state inspection (which was just done yesterday) we have to inspect/replace gaskets on some tank hatches because we keep using cheap door seal weatherstripping from the local hardware store that installs with sticky tape. Spending just a bit more for proper gasket material and adhesive would make it last more than 1-2 years and probably save money in the long run, but I never seem to win that argument.

With the pointy nose, strong slope on the windshield, straight roof on the cargo area behind, and flat chop off at the rear... it's always reminded me of the Space Shuttle without wings.

I guess I get to be the first to try this repair so I thought I would share my experience and lessons learned. I got some of the 847 adhesive from Amazon. I had been worried about being able to get it into the small slot the trim fits into, but the tube has a nice narrow nozzle that fits easily. All work was done with both doors fully open and working from the rear bumper area. First I removed the rubber seals. They pulled out easily and I was able to see why they are so loose. It looks like just a single strip of double sided adhesive was used on only one side to attach it. And it was on the plastic trim side, so when the door closes and seal is pushed away from the metal side of the door, it can easily "roll" in the slot and come almost entirely out. Adhesive on both sides is needed to hold the rubber in the slot. Or a thicker tab strip that is actually compressed in the slot. Once removed, I covered the area in protective masking tape since I would likely get adhesive slopping around a bit as I inserted the rubber strips. I just covered the entire area then cut out the slot. FIRST ERROR: The masking at the bottom needs to separately cover the metal of the door and the plastic window trim. I used a single piece to cover the both areas. The adhesive was much more runny than I was expecting and I did overdo it a bit. It oozed out under the single protective masking I had put on and filled up the gap under the tape. Better to let the extra ooze out from under the plastic trim and run on top of the metal for easier cleanup. When applying the adhesive, I put a thin bead on both sides of the rubber tab strip that goes into the slot and spread it with a disposable paint brush. Then I ran two beads inside the slot, one on the metal door side and one on the plastic trim side. I did not allow it to dry as some installation methods suggested for a contact cement type of fit. I figured a wet-to-wet insertion would allow me to move the rubber strip as needed and provide more of a caulking effect for the fairly loose fitting strip. The amount of adhesive was pure guesswork and unfortunately I can't suggest any other way to do it. Once the adhesive was applied, I quickly reinserted the rubber trim in the slot, being sure to bottom it out. Being able to move it did come in handy as I was about 1/4" too low once I got to the other end of the strip, but I was able to just slide it up a bit because the adhesive was still fluid. When installing the strip, the natural tendency is to position the exposed portion of the strip running parallel to the door surface like you are used to seeing it when the doors are closed. But this will cause the tab portion of the strip to roll out of the slot. Let the exposed portion rest at about a 60 degree angle to the door surface and keep pushing the tab portion into the slot until the adhesive firms up enough to hold it in position. SECOND ERROR: I removed the masking too early. My initial thinking was to that pulling off the masking while the excess adhesive was still fairly fluid would prevent it getting spread around. That is slightly true, but it made cleanup much harder. Leave the masking on until all the excess adhesive is cleaned off. I used Acetone as recommended on the 3M data sheet. I did some tests in hidden areas of paint and plastic before cleaning the larger visible area. It had no effect on the paint or rubber, but did affect the plastic trim that I had uncovered by removing the masking too early. My test spot showed some black on the rag when using the acetone on the plastic so I did multiple small passes when cleaning the adhesive off the unprotected plastic. It ended up leaving the area a bit smoother and shinier than the original area, but not enough that it attracts your attention. Hopefully as the plastic weathers over time, the appearance will even out. But if you leave the masking on, that should be enough to protect the plastic surface during cleanup. It took about 20 minutes for the adhesive to get totally set up to where I felt confident in not disturbing the placement of the reinstalled rubber strip. Leave the doors open for this entire period or it will roll the strip back out of the slot if the adhesive is not fully set up. If you have left the masking on the plastic, the acetone will quickly clean up any excess adhesive from the surrounding areas. But use care around the plastic as it can be affected by the acetone if it gets past the masking. Here's some photos I snapped along the way:

That article is about the full size Transit van, not the smaller Transit Connect. You can see the size difference in the photo of both versions in white under the Body Styles And Roof Heights section. The name confusion between Transit and Transit Connect is one of the things that makes it hard to find stories, parts, etc. for the Transit Connect. I often get started on something that looks interesting at first glance and then it turns out it's for the Transit instead of the Transit Connect that I own.

It's available as an option if you do a custom order. Either passenger side only or both sides. But almost all dealer stock I've seen is no windows. It's part of the reason I was headed down the custom route before I ended up getting a dealer stock wagon and removing the seats.

Installing and removing the seats is a very simple process. There are just four bolts holding each one in. You only need a T50 Torx wrench to remove them. The second row seats have two sets of two bolts at the front corners under some black cover pieces that just snap off for easy access. The third row seats have one at each corner of the seats. You need to move the seat all the way forward to access the rear bolts and then slide it back to access the front ones. Once the bolts are removed, just a little wiggle to break the mounts loose then lift straight up to remove them. There are short locating pins on the bottoms of the mounts that are fairly tight fits into holes in the floor. Putting them back in is as simple as dropping them in, making sure to move them into position so the locating pins hit their holes and the base drops all the way down into position, and installing the bolts. Here's a thread I made documenting how I removed the seats on my 2015 LWB wagon to make it into a van. Unfortunately, I didn't think to start taking photos until after I had the seats out. But there are several photos in there that show the openings in the floor mat where the bolts were installed. It's the places where you can see the silver metal through the black floor mat. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4109-converted-2015-lwb-wagon-into-a-van/?p=11644

It looks like there's a couple modules in the steering column also.

I took a look at my 2015 Wagon that still has both intact. It appears to be mostly cosmetic. There is a separate weather seal around the entire door opening. Although it may serve to keep rain and debris off the middle support arm for the door in the closed position. Mine are already starting to loosen at the bottoms. I may need to get some extra adhesive on them before they disappear. Can you post a photo of how it looks with the trim removed? The untrimmed gap at the front doesn't look too bad. If the missing trim isn't noticable it might be better just to remove it if it gets too loose, before it falls off and gets lost. At least that way I could put it back on before I try to resell it.

I doubt they would be very crash worthy. And they are some fairly large bolts, M10-1.5 (about 3/8"). I took a quick look under my wagon to see if the area where the bolts come through was accessible from underneath and I could see no signs of the bolts. So it looks like adding some reinforcing plates and nuts underneath would be a fairly involved job. There are some framing members in about the right spots so I am guessing the bolts come through the deck on the inside of the U shaped beam. You might be able to move the seats slightly and rig up something to tie into the existing cargo tie down points for the strength needed. I know the stories on the 1st Gen TC talked about them all starting out as wagons and most getting converted to vans. It looks like these 2nd Gen ones are getting the conversion started much earlier in the construction process. I would have thought the bolt holes were part of the floor pan construction. And since there is an extra plate needed to convert to the van configuration, assumed the wagon floor pan was the starting point for both. I wish Ford would put out more documentation on the Transit Connects. Their configuration and flexibility is just begging for DIY modifications to fit each owner.

Here's another source for seats, or maybe the same source but different members since both are in northern California. This member doesn't seem to have been active in the last year so you'll likely need to contact them directly at the phone number provided. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/3155-2014-2015-third-row-seats-from-lwb-transit-connects-100shippingpair/

Make sure to take some pictures while you have the mat out. Especially the area around the floor extension. I seem to recall somebody mentioning that Ford was switching from welding them in to bolting them in. There are already pictures on the forum for a 2014 that shows them welded in for that year.

If you mean the floor extension, it only covers the recessed area that the second row drops down into. The area where the third row bolts in is totally flat and common to both the van and the wagon. So the threaded bolt holes should be underneath the rubber mat installed in the cargo area. You can see their location in this photo I took when removing the seats from my 2015 LWB wagon.

A set of third row seats should just bolt in once you expose the bolt holes under the cargo mat. Another member just posted earlier today having leftover rows available at his job doing modifications on the TC. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4538-transit-connect-third-row-seats/

I already stripped a bunch of connectors out right after I got it. I had hoped they would fit the Aux fuse box in the rear that I tapped into, but once I saw them it was obvious they were different. Getting them out is a real pain, but popping them in should be a cinch as long as I can snap the back cover off. The hardest part of getting them off is getting the white cover piece off. Each one has multiple tabs holding them on and you have to get them all to release. There's so little play in the covers that each tab tends to reattach itself as you work on the next one. Once the cover is off, you can stick a probe down to release the catch holding the terminal in. But putting them in just involves inserting them in the back of the empty spot until the catch clicks in place.

Nice job. I especially like where you went directly to the bolt at the other end of the battery cable for constant power. I didn't realize there was a bolted connection under that cover. I had thought the taped connection to the battery cable was the only one in that area. Is the connection one piece with the bolt just holding it in place? Or is the metal for the high current junction box and the metal end on the cable two separate pieces held together at the bolt you used? What size ring terminal did you end up using for the connection? And did you have to modify the cover to allow room for the wires to exit or was the existing clearance sufficient? I think I am going to have to modify my previous work once the weather improves this spring. Use another triple fuse connector with all 3 tied to that same bolt; one for my accessory fuse box, move the dealer installed hitch power to the second, and the third for future use. I also like where you picked up switched power. I may be able to add one of the wires I stripped from the salvage fuse box I bought to add the other side of the fuse leg to the empty spot in the box and have the fuse installed there. But that will be wholly dependent on how easy it is to lift the fuse box up enough to remove the lower cover. If it's not accessible with relative ease, I'll use the tap like you did.

Here's a thread on battery access including a video http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/3982-engine-compartment-battery-access/

I tried that feature when I was looking for my TC and found it to be useless. The results looked like it didn't go beyond anything basic model info like van/wagon and SWB/LWB. When I looked at the actual vehicles in the search results, none of the other features on the vehicles bore any relation to my search query. I finally just gave up and looked at individual window stickers of all the TCs at dealers within a reasonable distance. Not too bad given the low number of TCs at each dealer, but it would be too cumbersome once inventory quantities get better. The Ford website design is horrendous for trying to find a vehicle with the features you want, even when it comes to picking a model. You have to select the model first, then see what features it has. It was only once I found a 2016 new build order sheet on this forum that I was able to see a list of features and which models contained each one. The manufacturers need to have a "which model is right for you" type feature where you can discover a model you may never have heard of before that will do what you want. If I hadn't seen a TC in a Lowe's parking lot and turned around to see what it was, I would have had no idea to even look at it to see how perfect it was for my needs.