DonShockley

Most likely, since it works when cord is moved, it is the internal contacts in the jack that are not making contact properly. They are just little bent pieces of thin metal. If they get pushed too far out of position they don't spring back enough to make contact. Sometimes they can just be bent back. Here's a generic jack internal photo with the contact points indicated.

The dealer did the work. Here's the pdf of the trailer wiring instructions that show the tie in and the routing of the power cable. (The instructions cover several models, the Transit Connect stuff starts about 10 pages in, roughly 1/3 of the way down on the page slider) http://www.fordservicecontent.com/ford_content/catalog/accessory_files/Trailer_Harness_1_28_15v2.pdf These photos aren't the best, but the tie in was attaching th inline fuse holder to one of the bolts on the bottom of one of the large fuse holders on the big metal plate at the front of the battery box, The first photo is looking under the air filter box side, you can just barely see the orange power wire between the white tag and going into the back of the inline fuse holder. The second photo is looking down between the air filter and battery boxes pointing out the nut that it is connected to.

Here's a photo I took of that area on my 2015 TC. I was adding some protection (the corrugated loom going through the hole) to the dealer installed power supply wire for the trailer hitch wiring kit. Routing through that hole was part of the Ford instructions for the OEM accessory kit. I also used the path up the A pillar for adding my own USB and 12v power points to the overhead shelf (the corrugated loom running next to the hole).

When I was looking at maybe adding some tracks to the 3/4" plywood floor in my 2015 TC, this was the place that seemed to have a good variety. In the end I never did add any and just used the few stock tie downs. But the L track seemed well suited to the light duty needs of the TC as opposed to the heavier duty E track fittings used in full size cargo vans. And the extra strength of the track itself and the screw holes spaced every 4" means the load is spread over numerous fasteners in thin material like was mentioned. https://www.uscargocontrol.com/Trucking-Transportation-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware

I had the door fail on my 2015 AFTER the recall was supposedly installed. Eventually found out that no parts were replaced during recall. Got no response from Ford or NHTSA back in 2018 when I reported dealer had not installed recall properly even though I provided photos, videos, and audio recording showing dealer staff admitting that's exactly what happened. Fast forward to June 2020 and the day I am trading in my 2015 in to buy a 2020 TC and I get a SECOND recall notice. Turns out this was done at lots of dealers so the second recall is to verify if the first recall was done properly. Second recall is number 20S30. Links: https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2020/06/10/ford-motor-company-issues-two-safety-recalls-in-north-america.html https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCMN-20V331-1020.pdf

Here you go.... Transit Connect Floor Dimensioned.pdf Transit Connect Floor Alternate Ideas.pdf

I had the Ford ones on my 2015 and they worked great. I've got another set waiting on me to get off the couch and install them on my 2020.

I bought them for my 2015. When I traded it in on a 2020 in June, I just pulled the reflectors off the 2015 and snapped them right on the 2020. Fit just fine.

I weighed them back in 2015 when I took the 2nd and 3rd row out of my wagon. I didn't write them down anywhere but the number that seems to be stuck in my head is 120#/70# for the 60/40 bench and 50# each for the 3rd row. But it's been 5 years so my memory could be complete fiction at this point.

I got mine from the eBay listings. Turned out fine, just a bit of a wait. But it's not like it's a critical repair, just dress up so not a big deal.

There was a second recall notice issued back in June. Turns out some dealers weren't properly performing the first recall latch repair and so a second recall is being issued to check the installation of the first recall. I got caught by a shady dealer on the first latch recall who didn't install the needed new parts. I don't think they've released actual repair instructions under the second recall yet. Here's a copy/paste from the second recall notice: "Jun 08,2020 Manufacturer Recall Number20S30 NHTSA Recall NumberAWAITING# Recall StatusRecall Incomplete, remedy not yet available Summary VEHICLES MAY NOT HAVE HAD ALL OF THEIR DOOR LATCHES REPLACED OR REPLACED CORRECTLY WHEN PREVIOUSLY REPAIRED BY DEALERSHIPS UNDER SAFETY RECALL 15S16 OR 16S30. SAFETY RECALLS 15S16 AND 16S30 WERE ISSUED TO REPLACE DOOR LATCHES WITH A LATCH PAWL SPRING TAB THAT WAS SUSCEPTIBLE TO CRACKING AND FAILURE IN AREAS WITH HIGH THERMAL LOADS. Safety Risk A DOOR LATCH WITH A FRACTURED PAWL SPRING TAB TYPICALLY RESULTS IN A DOOR WILL NOT CLOSE CONDITION. IF THE CUSTOMER IS ABLE TO LATCH THE DOOR AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO SHUT THE DOOR, THERE IS A POTENTIAL THE DOOR MAY UNLATCH WHILE DRIVING, INCREASING THE RISK OF INJURY."

The sliding door recall was for the door latches themselves, not the plastic panels. The latch stopped working and the door would actually open. Happened to my 2015. There's also been a more recent issue with the panoramic roof panels on the titanium versions coming loose. If the problem you are having is the subject of a recall, Ford does the repair at no cost even if the vehicle is out of warranty. So the milage is not an issue when it comes to recalls. You can do a search by VIN and see what recalls apply for your specific vehicle. https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2016/FORD/TRANSIT%2520CONNECT/VAN/FWD

Here's a mockup I made by combining the drawings for my 2015 wiring manual with the wiring instructions for the Ford OEM trailer wiring accessory kit. Also a couple other pages from the trailer wiring and connectors section of the manual. These photos were from 2017 when somebody else was looking at installing a trailer connector. IIRC, the FORD OEM kit was pretty straight forward in the connection instructions but did require tapping into existing wiring by stripping and soldering in wires in a couple spots. I did find the instructions online somewhere but can't find the link now.

No. Service department was busy so they ended up doing the tire work over at the Quick Lane and they weren't allowed to touch things outside their normal "routine" service areas.

Here's the NHTSA page for this recall. The pdf links there have all the details. Thankfully one of the details is that prior repairs should be reimbursed so I printed that out take with me to the dealer. https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=20V331

Current vehicles are basically miniature computer networks so it's nearly impossible to do any old school repairs or upgrades. How on earth do you build a vehicle where the ONLY latch release is controlled by an electrical module with no physical handle with mechanical linkage for backup. That's happened to a couple forum members with the rear liftgate failures. But I do see some reasoning behind that fuse box design, at least from a reliability standpoint. That double cover setup and the fact that they result in the fuses hanging upside down when installed would not allow water to collect in the fuse area even if the covers were left off or got cracked. Any penetrating water would drip out instead of collecting at the connections and causing corrosion. A secondary benefit would be that by disconnecting the plugs before gaining access you minimize the chance of damage during fuse replacement by shorting something else out while replacing fuses. Of course now you have an extra connector and it's powered fittings but if designed to handle clumsy people that can still be pretty reliable. But I'm just guessing based on the photos.

As I posted here back in 2018, I had the door latches on my 2015 XLT fail AFTER having the recall repair done. Turns out the parts were never installed on the first "repair" under the recall. Lots of fighting over several months to get the dealer to fix the problem and refund the money I paid for the repair. But complaints to NHTSA and trying to get local news channels or news papers to inform others, who might also be driving around in cars that were still unrepaired after having the recall done, all got me zero responses. But this morning I got an email that a second recall is being issued because first recall may not have been done properly. Here's a copy/paste: Jun 08,2020 Manufacturer Recall Number20S30 NHTSA Recall NumberAWAITING# Recall StatusRecall Incomplete, remedy not yet available SummaryVEHICLES MAY NOT HAVE HAD ALL OF THEIR DOOR LATCHES REPLACED OR REPLACED CORRECTLY WHEN PREVIOUSLY REPAIRED BY DEALERSHIPS UNDER SAFETY RECALL 15S16 OR 16S30. SAFETY RECALLS 15S16 AND 16S30 WERE ISSUED TO REPLACE DOOR LATCHES WITH A LATCH PAWL SPRING TAB THAT WAS SUSCEPTIBLE TO CRACKING AND FAILURE IN AREAS WITH HIGH THERMAL LOADS. Safety RiskA DOOR LATCH WITH A FRACTURED PAWL SPRING TAB TYPICALLY RESULTS IN A DOOR WILL NOT CLOSE CONDITION. IF THE CUSTOMER IS ABLE TO LATCH THE DOOR AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO SHUT THE DOOR, THERE IS A POTENTIAL THE DOOR MAY UNLATCH WHILE DRIVING, INCREASING THE RISK OF INJURY. And in just a few hours I am going to be turning in my 2015 and picking up my new 2020. And it's from the same dealer I took the 2015 to in order to have a double check on the second installation of the recall parts. I am going to try to see if I can get the service fee refunded not that a second recall is being issued. It was a pain and took too long, but at least now I have peace of mind that other people in the same situation will be protected. I kept imagining some poor family driving around in a "recall repaired" van with kiddies jumping around in the back and the doors flying open and kids falling out on the road. And all because the parts were never installed like happened with mine. Now that's finally being corrected. The good guys win for a change.

Thanks for that info. I am trading in my 2015 right now and am picking up my 2020 tomorrow. I saw your earlier post and was plannning to make sure they showed me during the pickup process.

These were some photos posted in 2016 on the forum that I copied for my own future reference if needed. Unfortunately, I didn't think to make notes on the photos of who the original poster was or a link to the post itself. Nor did I make a note of the model year. I tried to search and find the original source post but I was unable to find it. So with all due apologies to the original forum poster, here are copies of his photos of the area that show the area under the van floor extensions.

Here's a post with some info

I had to do some exploring on my 2015 after my driver's side rear door latch failed even after the recall was "completed". Turned out the parts for the recall were never replaced so I did a lot of photos documenting the fact back in 2018 just in case I had to prove the earlier work was never done. I thought to get detailed removal photos on the front door panels but not the back. So I went out and refreshed my memory and took a couple new pix for the fastener locations that I remembered. But be advised I may have forgotten something. There are two T20 screws in holes on the edge of the trim. One at the front bottom corner and the other at the middle of the rear edge near the child safety locks, The rest of the fasteners are just white push-in plastic pins. A firm steady pull gets them out of their holes. They have a flat head that goes into slots in the plastic trim panel and angled sides press fit into holes in the metal of the door itself. As you pull, sometimes they come off the metal hole side (intended) and sometimes out of the plastic panel side (not intended). Don't worry, they can be put back in the slot after you get it out of the door. The red arrows are what I recall for the pin locations. There is a simple lever to (I forget, push down I think but might need to lift slightly) to get the electric connector off the window switch. It's the red and black one hanging in the photo. There is a photo of the front door panel with all the white push pins attached, I don't have a photo of the rear door panel with pins attached. But you can see how they fit on. And finally, there's a photo showing the rubber mentioned earlier around the edge of the foam seal panel.

Also, most Qi wireless chargers have a "sweet spot" for device placement. Since the charging coil in each phone is located in a different spot, it will only work when the charge supply coil in the car pad is lined up with the charge receive coil in the phone. Depending on the combination of phone and charger, sometimes the sweet spot is very small. Sometimes phones and chargers have markings to show where the coil is located, sometimes they don't. Try moving it around to find a working spot. Generally the pad coil is in the middle, but phones tend to be wherever they could squeeze the coil in.

This video from Ford mentions that although the iPhone 8 and above support wireless charging some early models may need a special charging sleeve. Not personally an iPhone user so not sure on the details.

Here's a shot of how I tapped into the rear fuse box for my needs. The red and yellow are constant and switched power to the front. Blue and green are both switched for use at the rear. I have an accessory box at the front to make it easier to add extra circuits and pick switched or unswitched as needed just by moving where the fuse is plugged in. Front is supply for a phone charger, 12v outlet in overhead shelf, and USB connector in shelf for dashcam. The rear has so far just been used for a dashcam.

I work at a drinking water treatment plant. The only people who are getting to stay home during the "shelter in place" for our county is the management staff. All the operators are still working but social distancing means all overlap between shifts have been cut out so you have to do all the work alone. Normal for me since I work the midnight shift, but the day and evening shifts are used to working together on multi-person jobs during the afternoon overlap. Overall, a few less hours per week but much busier.