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i86hotdogs last won the day on August 13 2020

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About i86hotdogs

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  1. Sheesh that's a load of cash!
  2. i86hotdogs

    VanGuard Bull Bar Installation

    I took the splash shields off a while ago, along with the shield between the bumper and the subframe. I'm sure you can reinstall the splash shield with some modifications to it.
  3. i86hotdogs

    Automatic -> manual.. Has anyone considered it?

    It seems very doable. The TC could have been optioned with the same ecoboost engine as the Fiesta ST. So swapping that manual transmission seems feasible. It's on my "if I ever fall in to a pit of money" list. I even have bigger dreams of swapping the Focus RS powertrain in to the van as well. I have very expensive aspirations.
  4. For those familiar, I installed a very inexpensive bumper mount to install a set of KC halogen lights I had purchased. The mount fastens to the bumper leading to excessive vibration while driving. When the KC lights were on, it was definitely noticeable. So I decided to get something a little more robust. Shopped around for a bull bar in my price range, and came across this: $228 and comes with two LED pod lights and wiring kit. Not bad. https://www.autoanything.com/bumpers/vanguard-offroad-bull-bars Installation was not as bad as expected. Utilizing brackets, you basically clamp the bar to the subframe. Final product looks great! It definitely cuts in to ground clearance in the front. So far, I've been clear of obstruction with the exception of one obnoxiously large speed bump in a parking lot. I plan on installing the LED pods it came with at a later date. I'll probably just wire them in to the KC harness and put in a bigger relay to handle both sets. If ground clearance becomes an issue in the future, I will look in to fabricating the brackets to raise the bar up a few inches. There is some room between the radiator and the bar to do so. I don't mind cutting in to the bumper if I have to. It's my race vehicle anyways
  5. Updating you folks: I decided to upgrade to a more robust bracket. Bought a bull bar that mounts to the frame underneath. This bar comes with LED pods, so I'll have double the lighting!
  6. It's not a direct shot through the a-pillar. It took me some luck and a mangled coat hanger. Once through, it's easy peezy. And there is plenty of room under the dash to run wire to whatever you need to connect to. I have a power wire from the battery going through the passenger a-pillar for my stereo unit, and another going through the driver side a-pillar for my rally lights switch. I'll check on the condition of both wires occasionally for any wear or issues. Haven't found any yet.
  7. Another method I use is running the wire up to the upper corner of the engine bay. There is a small enclosure behind the plastic triangle that is in front of the side mirror. Pop that off, and you can see some through holes. They are not direct in to the interior, so some luck and finagling will have to do. They come through to where the a-pillar tweeters are (for me, there's no tweeters in my version). The a-pillar trim pops off, careful not to damage the curtain airbag.
  8. Agreed. Trying to find a way to secure the back of that portion of the bumper to the subframe directly behind it without posing any dangers in case a frontal collision occurs.
  9. Thanks for the tips. I think the issue is that the bumper itself all plastic, and is simply attached to the body with plastic fasteners. So regardless how secure the lights and bar are on, that bumper has too much flexibility for it to remain solid. I wish it was a manual conversion. It's in my "to-do list if I ever come across a bunch of money". The auto in the "Sport" mode is plenty good for the course. There are a few times where it wants to stay in a high gear after a corner, but that's the compromise I made racing a cargo van. The low center of gravity, and empty rear cargo area make it very easy to rotate the vehicle with a small tap of the brakes.
  10. For those that don't know, I take my van racing at SCCA rallycross events. Some of those events run into dusk, and even into the night. I shopped around for some extra lighting to supplement the headlights on those dark runs. I researched the pros and cons of halogen vs LED vs HID, compared prices, looked up reviews, specs, and warranties. I narrowed it down to either Hella LED or KC Hilites Apollo Pro halogens. Both the same cost, similar warranties, similar light output, but one is LED while the other is halogen. I decided to go with the KC halogens. In the end, I liked the look of the grill guards over the LED with plastic covers. Installation was not too difficult. The kit comes with all the connectors and harnesses you need to simply connect, mount, and flip the switch. But before I did that, I first needed to find a place to mount them. There are a few bull bars for the TC out there, but I could not justify dropping several hundred dollars on what I would consider a mounting bracket. I found an inexpensive bracket on Amazon that mounts where your front plate goes. $20 and some easy drilling led me to this. The only thing I dislike about this bracket is the lack of rigidness since it's mounted on the plastic bumper. But it will do for the application. The bracket came with pre-drilled slots and holes to make mounting lights, or whatever else you want to add a breeze. The most difficult part of wiring the lights was getting the wires from the engine compartment to the cabin. Luckily, there is a route in the back corners of the engine bay that runs into the cabin. There is a hole behind the plastic triangle in front of the side mirrors that feeds you right in to the a-pillar. Only issue is feeding all of that wiring through. KC gave me a lot of length, so there is about two extra feet of wiring tucked underneath the dash. I drilled a hole right above the headlight knob, and installed the switch for the lights. I had an option to wire the lights either directly to 12v power, or through an accessory source. One means the lights will stay on even when the engine is off, the other will shut the lights off when the engine is off. Final product looks great in my opinion! Took some time to adjust the beam position, tightened everything down. Like mentioned with the bracket, there is a lot of jiggle when driving. Currently figuring out a way to keep that front end a little more solid. Metal or plastic bracing between the back of the bumper and the subframe is what comes to mind. Now it's a RallyVan!
  11. i86hotdogs

    Tuning the TC

    My RallyCross class trophies tell a different story
  12. Wow, this looks like a well built piece. I wish I was a little closer to take this off your hands. Currently, when we sleep in the back, we just throw a twin mattress back there, and hang some blackout curtains behind the front seats. Does the job.
  13. i86hotdogs

    Tuning the TC

  14. i86hotdogs

    2.5 Litre Reliabilty

    Did someone say Sparco wheels?
  15. i86hotdogs

    2.5 Litre Reliabilty

    I'll be honest with you I don't know who that is, therefore not my inspiration for the number. It was my jersey number in college; also a nice number overall.