jrm223

Door open = unlatched door latch mechanism = closed contact (or open contact, depending on how Ford designed it - although I can't imagine an open contact for open door would be it, since that would then use power when the doors are shut). Shoot, I just spoiled the treasure hunt. This is a CAN-BUS system, so I don't think we'll ever come up with some redneck, hillbilly or ghetto "workaround" to disable the P.L., it just has to be done right. "Anything worth doing, is worth doing right." - Hunter S. Thompson CAN-BUS is also the very thing that allows us to add factory accessories so easily that didn't come with the vehicle originally, no splicing or rewiring required. Every switch has a specific resistance and the computer knows what to control via the ohms of the switch. At the same time, that will also drive us insane, eventually. A buddy of mine is a school bus mechanic and was troubleshooting a non-op marker light. Checked the wire with a multimeter, found the ohms was different than expected, but it wasn't open, so he continued troubleshooting elsewhere. Eventually, he found out that the ohms of even the wire matters, and it had a partial break internally, which caused the odd ohm reading. Fixed up the wire to spec and now the marker light works, again. Keep that in your gray matter for the future when y'all have some crazy & hair-pulling problem, lol.

Come to think of it, I remember seeing programming options for exactly which doors the normal unlock button on remote will actually unlock. Sounds like maybe Skizo's van is programmed to not unlock the barn doors from the regular unlock button, must be something to do with how the original purchaser spec'd the van. Considering that I bought mine new off the lot and it's always unlocked all doors from a double-press of the unlock button on the key-remote. @sKiZo, I bet your van had a partition/bulkhead when you bought it, yea?

Indeed. Good luck taping or gluing a switch when it's built-in to the door latch and then runs through a computer module. Let's play "find the door switch that isn't there"?

@nuke, that's because they want you to keep buying from a dealer, so they give it an oddball label that only exists in FoMoCo system.

First I've heard for that one, but I also have a gen 2, 2015. My doors only auto-lock after about 10-20 feet of driving, but that's all of 'em, or if I accidentally bump the unlock button on the remote and then don't open a door, it will auto-relock after 60 seconds or so. When I park, shut off & get out, whatever doors were unlocked before I started driving will be unlocked after I stop driving; conversely, whatever doors were still locked before I started driving (ex. pushing the unlock button on remote only once for driver door instead of twice for all doors) will still be locked after I stop driving, park it & take the key out. On my remote, the regular unlock button will unlock ALL doors when pushed twice (I also have barn doors, like you), or I can use the cargo unlock button to only unlock the barn doors, I think - I've never tested to see if the sliders will unlock with the cargo unlock button, mainly because I don't lock the damn thing, anyway! As for a separate dash switch button?? Does the door lock/unlock button on the front doors not work for your barn doors, also? That sounds like a problem with your specific van, in that case. All of my doors will lock or unlock using the buttons on the doors or clicking the 'normal' unlock button twice on my key-remote. That said, I do remember seeing some various auto-lock/unlock options in Forscan, but I didn't really play with them. @desert_connect, when I still had active perimeter lights, I found that the turn-stalk method would work for me until I manually locked the doors (auto-lock when driving did not seem to affect things, AFAIK). I could open and close doors for days or weeks on end, but once I manually hit lock sometime, I would then have to tap the stalk twice, again. Obviously, most people won't leave their vehicles unlocked for long periods (like glass is really going to stop a determined thief in the first place?? But, I digress), but when camping & awake by the van, there's not really any reason to lock it up, IMHO. So, you should be able to open & close to your hearts content, until you lock the doors for bedtime.

I think I may have asked you before, but whereabouts are you? If it was you that I asked before, instead of someone else here, then I think it's Kansas? Or I'm thinking of a different member completely, lol. In any case, maybe another member is close by to help look at it, hopefully one that has been successful already? I'm in north-central rural Texas, myself, about halfway between Fort Worth & Abilene and I'd help out a relatively close member within a couple hours drive. Also, do you happen to know the build date on your van? I recall seeing a date in the forum saying around 12/18/2016 or something like that for the BCM update requirement (meaning all vehicles built before that date would require BCM update in order to disable the perimeter lights).

You come up with the most ridiculous situations - are you related to ToasterVan? But you probably won't know him - other 'oldtimers' here will remember, lol. Again, the headlights, as in the 55W low headlight bulbs and separate 55W highbeam headlight bulbs, DO NOT come on with the doors, period. Even if you wanted to, you could not manually turn them on with the engine off! Go try it - parking lights don't count, we're talking headlights. "Commercial drivers have their doors open more." As desert_connect already said, the perimeter lights don't turn on with the engine running, so there goes another failed imaginary circumstance - and they certainly DON'T leave their doors open while away from the vehicle. As for my own van, I actually took it into Ford, had them do the BCM update in SM46321 and turn off the perimeter lights for me - instead of coming up with asinine garbage on a forum, in threads where the fix has already been posted several times. Rather than complaining, I took action to get it resolved - after a resolution was finally available. Since I bought my van new in June 2015, I first tried to disable it myself via Forscan (as many others here had also unsuccessfully tried - until after the BCM update), but ultimately I had to wait a couple years for them to even come up with the update required to disable the perimeter lights, and still I didn't moan & groan like a child. Here you are, long after the update is available for public, but refuse to do what's required; instead posting garbage incessantly. You're a millennial, aren't you? If you have such a problem with the perimeter lights, but refuse to get it fixed, as has been provided for you many times now, then get LED bulbs to replace all the halogen/incandescent bulbs. Here's even a bulb guide, for that. Copied straight out of the 2015 TC owners manual. I have my van swapped to about 80-90% LED, just need to do high beam headlights and the tiny city lights, still.

Regular tint instead of ceramic - no, just no. That's like saying a Yugo is better than a Lambo; cheaper for sure, but not at all better. Video comparing the two types of film with real testing of UV rays The euro console had actually fit right on top of the US console, after the guy (I can't think of his username offhand) cut-off his armrest from the seat. LizaJane, the side curtain airbags aren't something to mess with, so I'd recommend leaving the overhead shelf as-is. I mean, you can decorate or paint it (Krylon Fusion, BTW, since it sticks well to plastic) if you'd like, but extending it without leaving enough clearance for the air bags can cause issues in an accident when you need them the most. As windguy said, come up with a solution for accessing the hidden well behind the front seats for your additional small storage needs. I have mine completely open by removing the vinyl floor and all the metal that was used to cover the well, but those hatches like in the link he provided would be much nicer looking overall. I included a pic of what you'll see (except obviously yours is white, instead of black like mine) when you open that area up - note that this pic is with all the pieces removed, except the vinyl floor cover that you can see the foam bottom-side in the pic and I cut that off after the pic. My van is really a Swiss Army knife functionally, so I can't build a dedicated camper out of it. But if I was, I'd use the storage well for a couple batteries on one side (I'd put batteries on driver side, because you can pop out the rubber drain plugs in the floor for ventilation) and the electronics on the passenger side (fuse panels, inverter, solar charge controller, etc; this side doesn't have any OEM drain plugs that I can remember).

Nuke, did you bother removing the spacer that is in the battery box, before trying to put the group 48 in? Like Beta Don said, read the forum and you would know to remove that spacer to fit a slightly taller battery like the group 48. There's at least a few people in here that have already done it, so are they all wrong?? As far as Sams Club is concerned, they aren't the only place selling Duralast batteries, although prices will likely vary. I bet that you have an Autozone around, yea? Duracell Group 48/H6

Safety (FoMoCo reason for perimeter lights) is "an overlook", that's hilarious. Far more people drive these vans in city & commercial use than for camping. Ford's target market was/is not "people that want a DIY mini-camper" or "amateur astronomers driving out to the countryside". Most of their TC purchasers are commercial use or family haulers, carting either cargo or kids around town/city, etc. The rest of us are a specialized niche group.

First I've heard about the hemorrhoids part, but I wonder if people are actually comparing different trim packages and not even knowing or understanding that. As in, it's not "van vs wagon", it's more like "XL vs XLT vs Titanium". Fleet vehicles are typically XL's with minimal, if any, options/upgrades and would have the seats that slide forward/back, recline up/down & have an armrest, that's it (known as 2-way adjustable, same as my personal cargo XL, lol). I would think that XLT's probably have seats that add power to those movements, plus probably have adjustable lumbar support, then Titanium's would likely have "leather" (ha!) and probably some more power movements, like adjustable incline of the seat base, etc. Seats available, as far as I recall, are 2-way adjustable, 4-way, 6-way & 8-way adjustable, depending on trim level and options. I have just a foam pad that I've had for many years, probably from Walmart or something like that. Perfect size to fit on the seat bottom and gives me some extra cushion, lol. Used to not use a cushion, but after my first 1000 mile drive (2K round-trip) in the van, I looked through my bins of stuff after returning home to find it and it's been in there ever since!

That would be far too easy for him; same for repainting any other Titanium wagon, lol. Much better to undergo a national search for a near-unicorn and pay twice as much overall for it.

Then enjoy your lights coming on, because that is the only way to fix it, period. How to fix it, again - "Turn off or shorten duration lights are on" thread from FTCF, read the quote in my post on Monday 1/13/2020 at 8:08AM CST For a temporary "fix", you can push/pull the turn signal stalk back or forth twice (or once each way, I don't care) to turn off the perimeter lights, temporarily. But next time you lock the doors, perimeter lights reactivate.

My whole van is rarely clean, who do I need to talk to for a new replacement van? 🤣 Yet some people think I'm crazy or weird for not wanting all these ridiculous doodads and whatzits on/in my vehicles! More computers and superfluous junk, more problems!! As shown by this very thread, lol. If my "parking sensor" is broken, that means I need a new mirror! I'll stick to my 2015 XL, the only dealer-ordered options it got was power locks & windows. I added the large mirrors (no power to run them, though) & cruise control myself (I will say that computers did make that stupid easy, took 15 minutes and no splicing wires, damn near plug & play), that's all the extras that I needed. Oh yea, and a Sirius XM add-on radio using the AUX port because 2000 mile roadtrips 3-4 times a year get annoying if you have to find a new FM station every fifty or so miles - and can usually only find garbage, anyway. Good luck to y'all 2019+ owners, hopefully they actually get it fixed this week.

Looking at pics of the 2019/2020, I can spot a few cosmetic differences compared to 2014-18, mainly on the front bumper/grill. But the overall body structure still looks exactly the same for 19+, there may be some differences underneath because of the new rear suspension design (did they also redesign the front suspension? I don't recall now), and that certainly won't affect roof rails, anyhow. Maybe keep an eye out in parking lots for a slightly older TC Gen 2 so y'all can park next to it and see if anything looks different? I don't believe you'll find anything different up top, though. I'm in rural podunk Texas and I know of at least 4 TC2's when I go "into town" not counting mine (roughly 8K population makes it the "big town" with a Walmart, haha), so y'all should have no trouble finding one to park next to wherever y'all live. Offhand, I can tell you that my rails are spaced something like 48-50" apart on-center and they're 1.25-1.5" wide (I measured 3+ years ago, so memory is foggy). I just looked through the BBLB (Body Builders Layout Book, aka "Upfitters Guide" to most), but it doesn't show the hole spacing in the roof for the factory rails - just limit 220lbs van, 165lbs wagon & 132lbs panoramic roof. If you have a LWB instead of the SWB, I can take the tape measure to mine, if you need numbers to compare to. If you did get the SWB, there's a couple of them in here, although I don't recall usernames.