jrm223

That won't work, others here have already tried. The light is controlled by the BCM via CANBUS and doesn't have "traditional" hot & ground wires.

I wouldn't be surprised if the fuse location for it is in the fuse block behind the glovebox.

I can't speak to the KTM, but both of my cheap Chinese street-legal dual sports fit into my 2015 TC LWB - with the mirrors taken off them, lol. The main issue is at the rear door D-pillar, since that doorway hangs down a bit lower than the inside of the ceiling/roof. 2014 Bashan Storm 250 & 2020 Tao TBR7, if you'd like to compare specs against the KTM. tbrown, you are comparing US-spec generations of TC. Andyh is in the EU, where what we call the first-gen TC came in like 2 different wheelbases and 3 roof heights, where the US only got the LWB "high-roof" version of that model, as I recall.

Yes, Forscan. They finally released an updated version back around fall 2020 that allows a lot more circumference selections for the tire size. That was the only setting I changed related to tires and the speedometer/odometer reads correctly now. There is a "tire size" setting, but I couldn't figure out how/where to input the "Customer tire size" as it was called in Forscan, so I left it at the old tire size and haven't messed with it since.

I can say that the black van is mine, lol. I'm not sure on the white one with black false floor, I remember the pics but not the user.

Yes, the Euro-spec ones have it above the instrument cluster, not above the radio. Maybe Yonkk confused/thought it was the center since the one pictured is actually RHD, where our US passenger obviously sits on this side of the big pond. Edit: Wait, looking at the first post again, I realize Yonkk removed his own center cover. But, still the wrong spot for the Euro-spec cubby hole.

You could do what I did - take out the bulbs! Lol

My van does not have that fuse box ('15 XL LWB cargo), but the sliding door locks DO work perfectly fine (I bought it brand new in '15). There are programming options in the BCM for which doors unlock via the different remote buttons and even the physical lock/unlock switches on the front doors. Being a used vehicle, you likely don't know it's history and especially what custom programming was requested by the original purchaser. Hook up to the ECU via OBDII using Forscan and you can see how the options are set and change them as needed. There may also be a way to do it in the owners manual using a sequence type programming procedure (think back to video games 20 years ago, up-up-down-left-up-right, etc, but instead in the van) - just like you can turn off the belt reminder on both seats (individually) using a certain simple procedure. Some fleet cargo van buyers order them with partitions and have the door switches programmed to NOT unlock the rear doors, because a thief could then smash a front window and reach in to unlock the secured cargo doors. Universal unlock at the door switch would defeat the security measures of even having the partition to secure the cargo/materials/tools.

I once ended up running my '15 TC XL cargo van dry (hey, it was 2am out here in rural Texas, lol) and it had shown me "0 Miles to Empty" for about 35-40 miles, driving at 70-75MPH and my van averages 24.5 MPG overall, FWIW. That was a few years ago now, so I don't recall how much it took to actually fill up - on top of the half-gallon or so that I had dumped in after walking two blocks home for my Jerry can, of course. Specs online show 15.8 gallon tank, though. But, add your "11 miles remaining" on top of my 40 miles past "0 miles remaining", gives us 51 miles and with my vans MPG that would be about 2.08 gallons remaining. Each vehicle/driver is different, though, so MPG and miles traveled will be different for everyone. Safe assumption that there's around 2 gallons remaining when it's telling you 0 miles left, not that you should dip into it, of course.

Since Fifty150 started the post (notice that I had said "especially since he started this post and said he has LED H11 bulbs..."), that would mean post #1 on page #1. As quoted here, note the author name & post date/time:

When I drill rivets, I always use a drill bit that's roughly halfway in-between the shank size & overall head size - because it will "cut" the head right off the shank for you. I've never damaged the riveted piece by doing so, either.

sKiZo, I thought that you were actually saying that; but about halfway through, I recognized it as a "Toaster-ism", hahaha.

"will eliminate the massive amount of brake dust we're getting on the front rotors" I don't understand how he's getting so much brake dust on the front. Mine still look like nearly brand new, even though the van has 130K miles on it now - I bought the van brand new in 2015, so I know they're original. Whatever, though, he's their problem now! Haha Wait, I just got to user Kenton now being labeled a ... FOE!! Hahahaha

Replying to a 9.5 year old post and saying the cargo vans aren't "physically configured to attach passenger seats"? All the required bolt holes are in the floor & walls for the factory OEM passenger seating and seatbelts.

Fifty150 clearly also does have LED headlight bulbs in the OEM housings, especially since he started this post and said he has LED H11 bulbs...