jrm223

Warning from their instructions: So, you better not fire up the ole CB to talk to truckers while your Rostra CC is active, because CB is 27MHz range and might kill your car?! That sucks. As for adding cruise control, why not add the factory CC? You swap the steering wheel (get one from a wreck at the junkyard?) and then there's like 2 or 3 spots in the computers that need to be 'enabled' and then you have factory CC. As I recall reading, the settings are in PCM, ABS and maybe one other spot (TCM?). You may need to have a Ford dealer use their computer to enable the settings, although I've read about people doing it on the Ford Focus cars (which our vans are based on) with Forscan or maybe Focccus and an ELM327 adapter. $20 for a steering wheel puller if you don't already have one, maybe like $75-150 for a steering wheel and I think I paid around $25-30 for my own ELM327 off Amazon. Not having to cut & solder wires under the dash - priceless.

I have a 2015 XL cargo van in the US and my van unfortunately doesn't have any power block in the right-rear corner, either. That crooked rectangular indentation area just in front of the back door on the right side of pic is where the secondary power/fuse block is located on vehicles that actually have the fuse block. If you pulled off your plastic panel and there's no fuse block there, you'll have to run your own wiring.

Wait, since the trailer kind of looks like it could be a space-pod, how about an astronaut, instead? That would really mess with other drivers!

Maybe get some black vinyl to make a "window" on the driver-side of the trailer and then use Celebrity decals for your rear-most "driver", haha!

So-called "all season" tires tend to be mediocre across all uses & situations. Whereas dedicated summer tires are great in late-spring/summer/early-fall and snow tires are great from late-fall to early-spring. It's a little extra hassle & expense, but it goes along the "use the right tool for the job" saying.

To answer your question, yes the handle is removable. There's a thumbscrew that holds it in place, just loosen it & pull the handle out. The handle is two pieces that have a set-screw holding them together, so you'd need tools if you wanted to completely break it down. The jack fits great under the false floor in my 2015 cargo van, no need to disassemble the handle itself since it's only like a few feet long.

Unfortunately, our members here really don't have experience with the full-size Transit 150/250/350. This forum is about the wee little Transit Connect... That said, with the gas tank being beneath the fourth bolt, is there enough room that you could use a nutsert in the floor? So you're not trying to get a regular nut between the tank & floor. Also, the full-size Transit comes in cargo & passenger versions just like our Transit Connects - so what about getting a middle seat from a passenger version and putting it in your van? The bolt holes might already be there, or you may need to put nutserts in for that seat, too, I don't know...

I think my cables came from Ebay, if I remember right. I've had them for at least 5 years, I'd guess. The $200 or so included a 3ft pigtail, 5ft pigtail and 25ft jumper cables, all 2awg. The extra pigtail was intended for a removable winch on a hitch-mount plate that I never got around to wiring (I had a 2003 F350 4x4 diesel back then). I had one of those bigger jump-packs that my grandpa gave me, but eventually the battery in it died completely.

I stay in the driver seat, it reclines nearly flat in my van - but both seats lay back equally in my van. I just went out and took a quick pic for ya to show how far back it lays down. Nevermind the removed headrest - it doesn't like to share space with a cowboy hat, lol. This shows why it seems odd to me that your seat doesn't touch the partition at max recline... I'd think something is hitting before it's truly at "max recline"... Also shown is my beast of an inverter, 3000W/6000W pure sine wave - bought it cheap not working and I haven't figured out what's wrong (I'm a computer tech by day) so I'll have to find someone/place that specializes in these. Mike, good video on the nutserts. I have some for the roof to install E-track since my van didn't come with roof rails. I was going to use the nut & wrench method, but a washer & small wrench that's just barely bigger than the bolt would probably be easier.

We talked about that when I did this same thing with my van a couple years ago. Your van has carpet in the front, thus carpet in the cavity. Myself & Mike Chell have base XL's with vinyl in the front, thus vinyl in the cavity. Mike, you're working a lot faster than me! I've had that subfloor in & out many times, depending on what I need to use my van for at any given time. Right this moment, I have the support beam and "rear" floor panel in with maybe half-dozen of the bolts, but not the smaller piece right behind the seats. I got rid of the vinyl floor cover long ago and plan to do bedliner, instead. One of my plans is finding a chest toolbox (used, for cheap) that will fit "just right" in there so that I can have additional locked storage for my tools and things. The main reason I want to find a cheap one is that I'll probably end up cutting the bottom of the box to fit lower into the floor - I recline my seat to take rest breaks on road trips to visit family & friends in northern Illinois and I'm in Texas. You're doing great work, I look forward to seeing more!

Now that's what I call a "mobile home" lol. Too bad our USA cabovers aren't as nice & streamlined as the Euro cabovers. The Freightliner Argosy was the most streamlined and also the last class 8 cabover in the states. I'd love to have a Scania, though. A Longline cab would be great for my use as a "motorhome" pulling a camping trailer.

Mine didn't have that extra trim piece on it, but I have a base model. I just had to squeeze in the two sides on my lens (by hand) and it popped right out. Yours looks like the LED version whereas I had regular incandescent bulb. I'm guessing you tried putting like a putty knife or something under the bottom side where that notch is? I'd think push straight up at that spot to release the lock.

Is this the right spot to check for current BCM version? I also see a History tab, which shows nothing. Acronym Description Assembly Part No. Software Part No. Last Checked BCM Body Control Module (BCM) DV6T-14A073-UM DV6T-14C094-BH 08-12-14 21:51

I got the extended license for Forscan (it's free, but you have to renew every 2 months) and tried to turn the approach lights off, but it didn't work for me. From what I'm seeing, I need to get the BCM updated and then it *should* work correctly. Windguy, when you read the BCM and other modules, save the file and keep it as a master copy. You can reload it to the BCM if you do mess something up, lol.

Well, that sucks! I do have power windows, but only the driver is one-touch. Mine is a window-less cargo van, so no rear windows to worry about.