jrm223

Not entirely accurate. My '15 XL has power windows, but only the driver window has a "one-touch" power window switch, so I can't use global windows at all - I've tried, lol. When I checked on the forum here, I found out that both windows need the "one-touch" window switches in order to use global open/close. That was in some thread a year or two back.

Even better is custom-order. Roof rails are a $195 option on the build ticket (or $335 with the cross bars), but then you have to wait for your special-order to be built and delivered, lol. Get to tick all the options wanted, though. As you've probably seen from the forum, ordering just the rails from Ford after-the-fact is $1000 not counting install!

Sounds like you ought to buy yourself a Lotto ticket, while you're on a lucky streak! Haha

I'm thinking the only difference for 2010 is the lack of a rear headliner reducing the ceiling height and also that 4'11" measurement is probably to the ceiling skin instead of the ribs that hang down - Ford measurements on the full-size T150/250/350 is to the roof skin instead of ribs, as well, assuming no headliner present. Check out these Autotrader links for a 2010 Ford TC versus a 2011 Ford TC - the bodies look 100% identical in every respect externally, aside from configuration differences like optional windows. Maybe find one of each for sale near you and bring your tape measure to verify the ceiling heights before you waste time dedicating yourself to only a 2010 model. The rear headliner will reduce ceiling height by at least 4-6" with dead airspace above and the Ford measurement may be to the lowest point of the headliner, which is that molded-in cargo light that's hanging down a bit in the 2011 TC ad above. So, same steel bodies, but rear headliner vs no rear headliner - and they're easy to remove to regain extra height.

The US-spec bodies are 2013-down Gen 1 and 2014+ Gen 2. I know 2020 has a bunch of changes, especially in suspension, but I think the body overall is mostly the same as '14-19, lol. So I don't think there's a Gen 3, yet.

The OE camera runs through the CANBUS like everything else, it's not like the universal ones that have easy separate power & video feeds. What you want to do will require a camera & screen kit. As far as I've ever noticed, only the vans with NO windows in the back doors have no mirror on the windshield (mine is one of 'em, zero windows behind the driver), because it wouldn't do anything except show the cargo inside. All the rear-window vans I've seen have the inside mirror, so are you saying you have back door windows and no inside mirror? I get by just fine with only the side mirrors and have for many years & vehicles (even window vehicles with inside mirrors - I don't use it); no cameras, gadgets, sensors or doodads, lol. Last summer, I did finally upgrade to the 'large' OEM mirrors since mine came with the 'small' mirrors. Gives a little better view, IMO. Only place I need to be careful is backing out of spots in public parking lots like Walmart because people are morons stuck to their phone screens instead of paying attention to their surroundings - they don't even notice (or maybe just don't care) my strobe lights flashing in their face at near-eye-level, just above the taillight assemblies. A lot of people just keep on walking right by, although some do pay attention and stop so they don't get run over, haha. Here's a comparison shot of the mirrors, in case you want to consider the upgrade. The one thing I don't like is that the wide-angle mirror on the large one is not adjustable and it's clearly turned in just a bit too much, but I suppose that works perfect for shorter drivers close to the steering wheel. My phone/camera is positioned as close to where my left eye sits while driving as I could get it, too. So it's as apples-to-apples as I could manage to shoot freehand.

Rockauto sells the empty Motorcraft knuckles, $160/ea. Probably worth the expense to sit inside to assemble, though. Then you'll also have your OE knuckle as a core for next time you need to do a wheel bearing on the same side. I'm with you on the preloaded/preassembled stuff, though. My right-front strut blew at like 55-60K miles and I replaced both front struts together with the Monroe preassembled struts from Rockauto because I don't own nor want to screw around with spring compressors, especially working outside in Texas summer. And with all the crap that has to come out to replace the strut, I figured I may as well just do both at once and be done with it for awhile. But, I've always been the type that replaces pairs of "wear items" together, especially the little crap like light bulbs.

I didn't even know they're still in business, haha. There are so many clear vinyl paint protection kits these days, so I can't understand using an ugly LeBra, but to each their own! Oh hey, another Texas TC. I'm in north-central region, Jack County.

I just looked up the Gen 1 specs online and the cargo floor behind the seats is only 6ft long, compared to 7' 3.3" for a Gen 2 LWB, so you're losing basically 15" of length with a Gen 1, but you do gain 9-10" of ceiling height in a Gen 1 because they're taller. 2010 TC G1 brochure and 2015 TC G2 brochure, if you want to compare any measurements between the two generations for yourself. The 12ft handrails I had carried were only 1.25" diameter handrail poles, so they're super skinny even though they're long. And that was going from rear driverside corner to front passenger corner, just a few inches from the windshield - and well strapped so they couldn't slide forward! I've already replaced the windshield once a couple years ago for $400 using Safelite, first one in my life and I was 34 at the time lol, so I'd like to make sure that I don't damage it. Turns out, insurance here in Texas doesn't cover windshields unless you opt for it as an add-on premium, oh well.

I wonder if a previous owner installed that as part of an alarm? A thief wouldn't stick around long with that thing blaring inside as they're trying to steal stuff, lol. I don't know if it's just the picture, but it looks like the wall has been modified/cut, too? To me, it looks like a section was cut out and the cut edge has some surface rust, right below the horn. Ain't no telling what modifications some people will do to their vehicle to fit their purposes, haha.

The ceiling length for all Gen 1 (2013 and older) vans will be the same in the US, although I don't know that measurement - I can say definitively say it's too short, though. Gen 2 US vans come in SWB and LWB and I have fit 12ft long lumber (actually two 12ft stair hand rails) inside my van, but that went to within inches of the windshield base (no passenger because seat was folded down). I just went out and measured my cargo van and one thing to keep in mind with my measurement is that I have no front headliner or plastic shelf currently in my van (I'll get around to putting up insulation one of these days so I can reinstall those, lol) - that said, from the top of the windshield, above the passenger seat to the lower back edge of the rear passenger barn door at floor level is around 118"-ish. Kind of hard to accurately measure using a typical tape measure & being alone, but the surfboard might fit that way. But you'll probably want both ends up at the ceiling, and the surfboard is just too long for that. Even going from front-passenger corner to rear-driver corner at the ceiling is only around 9ft or so and that's not accounting for width & shape of the surfboard - I have a 10ft hammock hung exactly that way in mine, but I really need a 9ft one because of the short distance. Basically, you either need a shorter surfboard, or put it on top of the van (luggage/ladder rack) or step up to a full-size van like a Transit 150/250/350. Even the shortest-length Transit has 126" at floor level behind the two front seats, and 116" at the beltline. From an overall size perspective, you're looking at 190" TC LWB G2 (2014+) vs 220" T150/250/350 overall length (that's the 130" RB), width 72.2" vs 81.3", 40ft versus 42.9ft curb-to-curb turning radius, etc. So, 2.5 feet longer, 9 inches wider and you get to keep your board inside - choose ceiling, or maybe even on the side wall, etc? Depends on what all your priorities boil down to and which priorities are more important than others.

Go to a website that sells round keys like that (Google is your friend here) and get one that matches the keycode on there, looks like 0278? It looks to me like secure storage, like a micro-sized safe for keys or even a GPS tracking device.

There's essentially zero performance market for a Transit Connect and, understandably, manufacturers only go where the money is. So don't hold your breath for a Transit Connect tuner, lol. Our vans are technically modified Focus chassis, I wonder if anyone has ever tried a Focus tuner on a TC?

It's up to you to thoroughly research statutes & regulations for NY in regards to adding seating to a vehicle, as well as discussing it with your insurance company; you are responsible for yourself & your actions. In an accident with "too many" people in the vehicle (officially it's only 2 in a US-spec cargo model), insurance may drop you after paying out a claim for a DIY-conversion and then turn around to sue you for re-compensation. The "most legal" route to take for adding seating is an automotive upfitter, they'll have the state licensing and insurance covering the conversion, like in case of a mounting/structural failure in an accident - but, of course, that's also the most expensive route up-front. As for finding a cargo van that's already upfitted, I'm betting you're mainly looking at private-use type websites like AutoTrader? Instead, try Truck Paper and Commercial Truck Trader (basically the commercial side of "AutoTrader" website). You won't find some 'upfitted checkbox' like you're talking about, but those sites will give you the highest amount of commercially-fitted/used Transit Connects. If a second passenger (third body) or more is a high priority, your best bet may be getting a LWB wagon and then fitting it out exactly the way you want it for storage. I'd think you could mount some fork holders on the folded-down second row seat to hold the mountain bike(s), assuming front wheel off. One guy here made an internal ceiling rack to carry long-ish thin stuff, including putting up PVC tubes to carry his hang-gliding equipment. So you can get some pretty cool ideas from the forum.

I lock my '15 G2 running fairly often, no problems. One key/fob still in the ignition, the other in my pocket & hit the lock button on the second one. Since yours is all-manual without any remote control buttons, I can't fathom how it would cause any problems. If there's no power actuator in your locks, the van computer cannot unlock the van - or lock it, for that matter. Easiest way to test it out is open the driver window all the way, leave it running, lock the door and close it, then try to unlock with your other key - it should work perfectly fine. If not, reach in through the open window to unlock it; either way, you'll have your answer.