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Everything posted by jrm223

  1. There are clear ceramic products (can't really call it "tint") available that will block 70% of heat trying to come through the windshield. As mentioned, it's pretty expensive, but worth it. You can also get ceramic tint in different levels that will block more heat than any cheap non-ceramic tint, but at a cost. Check out this video, they use a heat lamp & meter to show the difference between cheap junk tint and ceramic. YouTube Texas Tint Masters video
  2. jrm223

    Front seat swivel/reverse/flip for Gen2 FTC?

    If you look close at that center console, it looks like they cut out a huge section of it along the passenger seat; you can see a big notch cut out by the corner of the seat. I bet it has enough material cut away to allow the seat to swing around.
  3. I had Safelite come to me to do my windshield because their nearest location is about an hour away from me. Paid them right around $400 or so, probably closer to $425 with tax and such, back in Nov 2017 I think it was. Mine is the base model XL cargo, no inside mirror even. Local glass shop had quoted me higher than Safelite, but I'm also in rural Texas halfway between Fort Worth, Abilene & Wichita Falls (middle of the triangle, lol).
  4. If you are satisfied with only partially charging that LiFePO4 battery (about 70% max), then go ahead and use the direct-connection charger methods talked about above. But, I assume you want it fully charged, so you'll need the proper MPPT DC-DC charger that is designed for lithium batteries. Lithium-based batteries charge very differently than old school SLA/AGM style batteries - which vehicle alternators are designed for. It's not as simple as "give it power to charge and it's good" when it comes to those batteries. As the saying goes "Anything worth doing, is worth doing right." https://www.progressivedyn.com/frequently-asked-questions-on-converting-to-lithium-charging/
  5. jrm223

    2019 connect horn in the rear jack compartment?

    Could that be hooked up to the alarm system, perhaps? Someone breaks in and that annoying bastard is going off in the back, but it's difficult to find & cut, lol. Stand outside the van and hit the horn on the steering wheel to make sure it does not sound off, that would be real annoying while driving.
  6. GBL beat me to it; windshields are laminated already, but the composite is in the middle of two layers of glass. So, you still get some tiny shards when a windshield gets shattered. Tint or clear ceramic would hold those tiny shards, at least. Plus, ceramic tint (or even clear) is the best thing you can get for reducing heat inside the vehicle and it makes a much bigger difference than exterior paint color.
  7. Yep, that's about how mine look, too. When I rotate tires, I just give them a quick glance and think "Just what I expected, no noticeable wear, moving on..."
  8. I only made the point about bbfly since there are so many cheap adapters claiming to be "elm327 compatible" and causing lots of issues, but I haven't looked at the Forscan list recently to see what models are on it. Just the name of it sounds like one of those cheap Chinese knock-offs, at least to me. Before buying mine, I had found it on a Forscan discussion on a Focus or Mustang forum and several users had recommended it, so I knew it would work properly, lol. As for your questions - I used Forscan since I don't have IDS. The ASC was in the same module that CC was in, but it was down towards the bottom of the list - I can't remember which module because it's been awhile. The setting was called either Adaptive Speed Control or Adjustable Speed Control.
  9. When you're only putting in like half-dozen or so rivnuts, there's no reason to buy any special tools for it. All you need is a properly sized screw, washer, nut & a couple wrenches. Why make things expensive with dedicated tools for only 6 or so rivnuts? lol. Whenever I get around to installing my L-track rails, I'll be using rivnuts with the below procedure and drilling holes in the van body that match the factory holes on the L-track itself. Now I just need to quit procrastinating and get it done - I've had the rails DIY bent to match the roof profile for at least 3 years now...
  10. jrm223

    Installing hammock in van

    This probably won't really help you a whole lot since I have my headliner pulled out completely (cargo van, so only had front headliner). But, here's where I have my hammock hooked onto in the van, it goes front-passenger to rear-driver because my hammocks are all 10ft long - a 9ft one would fit a lot better, but I wasn't about to buy one specifically for the van. There's a few things that I have planned that needed the headliner out, so I figure I'll just leave it out and the hammock hanging until I get around to these projects (like custom rails on the roof, insulation inside, etc).
  11. Yea, I've seen talk about the "advanced" braking system somewhere in the forum, applying the rear brakes first. I coast down as much as possible and I'd say I'm generally pretty light on the brakes, when I'm able. Just goofy how we always used to change front brakes only (well, maybe 2:1 or 3:1) and now I'm changing rear brakes only, haha.
  12. That's an interesting observation. I reset mine at every gas fill-up, even though I no longer keep a log book of my fuel mileage, so it's never gone past a few hundred miles for me. You did a pretty awesome build, though!
  13. Tint goes on the inside, so I don't know why that would help with preventing rock chips. I've heard of a special coating that can be applied to the outside of windshields that fills in all the micro surface imperfections on glass and thus prevents small rocks and such from causing damage. The professional treatment runs a few hundred dollars, so I haven't looked up anyone to do it. But, doing some Google searching, I see there are DIY kits available, too. Something like this one - I may have to try this out soon, it would probably help make bug removal easier, too. I have to clean my windshield weekly because it gets too hard to see through the dead bug guts, lol.
  14. I had my 2015 into the original dealership for some service back in beginning of June at 102K and they told me my rear brakes had "2 mm left" and wanted like $330 or something for the rear brake job, I told them no. Bought the pads & rotors from Rock Auto ($50) and finally got around to changing them a few weeks ago at around 108.5K. The rotors had no discernible wear on them (no lip), so I didn't bother swapping them out. But, I did swap the pads - with far more than 2mm left on them - due to the uneven wear pattern. In this pic, the close pair is passenger side and the far pair of course is driver side. The three thick ones were roughly 60% of the material thickness on the new pads. My front brakes still look brand new, though, and they're also OEM original. I put plenty of grease on the slide pins, so hopefully it won't have this uneven wear, again. I've seen people talking about doing rear brakes at like 5K to 35K miles on TC's, so I guess I can't complain too much. Good job on the 200K! I've had one windshield done also (out of pocket, $400) and prefer not to do that again, haha. My insurance policy doesn't cover windshields, unfortunately.
  15. jrm223

    14+ battery longevity

    Yours has already outlasted my OEM battery, haha. I had to get mine replaced back at beginning of June with 102K miles on the van, also a 2015 model.
  16. When I added cruise control to my van, I found that I had to enable BOTH the cruise control and ASC in order for the CC to work on my 2015. I don't recall having any DTC's from enabling only the CC, like you're seeing, but the CC didn't work until the ASC was also enabled. I also don't have (nor have even heard of) the bbfly adapter you're using, so that could be a culprit? I've heard of lots of cheap knockoff adapters causing issues or not working properly and I think Forscan lists all known good adapters that work properly. Here's the Amazon link for the one I have - I've had zero problems with mine, FWIW.
  17. jrm223

    2015 Transit Connect XLT Cargo

    My 2011 Ranger 2.3L 5M was averaging 28-30MPG with me driving in northern IL including Chicago suburb traffic, before it got wrecked in Nov 2012... My '15 TC was getting 27-28 MPG in Illinois, but only 24 MPG here in rural Texas with higher speed limits and I also put 215/65R16 all-terrain tires on it, lol. Getting stuck fairly constantly with the Conti's this spring was a PITA, so the AT's are worth it for me. My warm-up is definitely quick here most of the year. Some days, the coolant temp is already above 100*F before I even start the van, haha.
  18. As far as I know, the gen 1 USA is all the same body. The difference in heights you're seeing is most likely ceiling height versus door opening height - there's unibody framework above the door opening that hangs down several inches for both generations. I have a gen 2 and the ceiling height (cargo model, no headliner in cargo area) is easily 6-7" above the lowest point of the rear door opening. So, the G1's probably have a ceiling height of 59.1" but a rear door opening height of 53.7".
  19. jrm223

    Eliminating 4.2" screen on a 2015

    The antenna doesn't come apart, so you'd need a sort of large hole to pass-through the connector that goes to the radio. I just have the wire going out through the driver side sliding door (tacky, but whatever); never noticed any leaking but the wire is also only like 24awg or something. Eventually, I'd like to get an antenna that uses NMO base - which does require drilling a hole, but it's sealed up when the antenna is put on. Here's a pic for those unsure of what NMO mounts look like. I've heard of people sticking the satellite antenna on their dash in the windshield, but I don't know about all that. Mine on the driver-side roof loses signal when drive-thru's have that little overhang above me, even if it only covers half the van. So I don't understand how the dash can keep a reliable signal, but who knows. When I do the NMO, I'll probably end up putting it on the passenger side, instead.
  20. jrm223

    Eliminating 4.2" screen on a 2015

    I added a Curt hitch, myself. Took about 20 minutes alone, including getting the car on the ramps in back, lol. My van didn't have cruise control, base XL, so I added factory cruise control for about $125 for the steering wheel and 5 minutes of my time on the laptop enabling CC feature. No aftermarket kits or wire splicing required. My 2015 XL van with AM/FM/Aux base stereo has (obviously) an Aux port, down in the center console below my elbow. I "bought" a free Sirius XM radio kit during a Christmas sale in 2015, plugged it in & been good ever since. No extra parts or real work needed since the radio sits in the cupholder, aside from running the antenna wire up the B-pillar and onto the roof.
  21. I bet its structural. Why chop up your van when you can use a $5 ratchet strap to compress the fork for the little bit of extra room that you need? Those dirt bikes have tons of travel that you can use to your advantage.
  22. jrm223

    Cruise Control Add

    We all have the baby brother Transit Connect here, but the steering wheel in the big Transit's looks the same as ours, so I bet it should be do-able.
  23. It should probably be positioned towards 2 o'clock so that the wiper blade starts spreading the fluid out sooner. At 12 noon position, your wiper goes through half the window before finally getting to the fluid.
  24. jrm223

    Locking lugnuts....

    After reading this thread, I'm glad my 2015 XL didn't come with factory locking lug nuts. People tend to ask a lot of questions about my lug nuts, haha. Technically, you could even call them "locking" because you need a 4" deep socket to remove them. Now I just need some better looking wheels to go with them.
  25. jrm223

    2014 Transit Connect Front Wipers not working

    Gen 2 definitely does use individual wiper motors - and they have to be pulled out when you need to do front struts, so look forward to that one 😉 Guess how I know, lol. Anyway, when I put mine back in, I had a bunch of trial & error to get the arms lined back up on the motors & functioning properly. When you start the van, the BCM does a brief wiper self-test which verifies the down position, you could put the wiper arms into the up/vertical position on the windshield (make sure to offset them so the passenger side comes down first), then turn on the key to see if the self-test brings them to the down position like it's supposed to. I'm guessing y'all already checked every fuse just to make sure nothing is blown, yea?