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Everything posted by jrm223

  1. jrm223

    Fifty150's Truck

    Nah, there's too much sidewall on those tires, haha. Here's a good example of a Chevy bro truck. My van has more mud on it right now than this Chevy will ever see in it's life, lol.
  2. Those are both amber/white split and they're wired directly to the reverse lights, so they come on when backing up. They're cheap Chinese ones and the passenger side light doesn't have a 'memory', so it changes flashes patterns every time I go into reverse, haha. The driver side one does have working memory, so it's the same pattern each time. Not a big enough issue for me to worry about, especially since they're screwed & siliconed 100% to the filler panel. After 3-ish years, the lenses have yellowed some, so I may eventually replace them with better ones at some point.
  3. Is that a taxi window or something? Aftermarket? I haven't seen any TC windows like that before, lol.
  4. I'm running General Grabber AT2's in 215/65R16 and haven't had any rubbing or traction issues with them. I've gotten through mud that the original Conti's couldn't dream of getting through - I've even got stuck in my own yard several times with the OEM Conti's! There's no rub that I've noticed, but it is getting fairly tight at this size. And yes, I have spike lug nuts, haha. I need to get some better looking wheels to go with them, though. The second picture shows the clearance with the wheels turned, not straight ahead.
  5. jrm223


    I have the RhinoRamps 12K from Walmart. I've used them on the back of the van to install my hitch, but I can't remember if I've used them on the front at all. But I can say that the 12K has no problem with my 7.3L Powerstroke F350 4x2 trucks on concrete or gravel. Even left one of the trucks on the ramps in gravel for a couple days last fall.
  6. I've got a 10ft hammock hung 100% inside my van, but I pulled out the front headliner (cargo van, so no rear headliner); hangs passenger front corner to driver rear corner. A 9ft would be a lot better, but I wasn't about to buy a 4th hammock just to use in the van, lol. I use rubber straps to hold up the front part of it while driving, since I don't have headliners in the way.
  7. jrm223

    Changing seats.

    Changing seats will require moving the airbags & sensors over from your current seats. Otherwise, as far as I understand it, the entire airbag system will be disabled. That even applies to removing the passenger seat if you wanted extra space over there. Although, some people have fooled the computer into thinking the passenger seat is still there by using specific resistors. Our second gen TC's also have a sensor that tells the computer how close the seat is to the dash and I haven't heard of a way to fool/simulate that part of it.
  8. jrm223

    Fifty150's Truck

    Some of the requirements for a bro truck is 8+ inch lift kit with small 33-35" tires on large 20-22" diameter rims that are 14" wide. Lift kit isn't really an option on a TC, nor are 33" tires or wide wheels. Maybe some 15x12" wheels with the shortest & widest tires you can find would make a Bro TC that could turn around in 40 acres? But it would look more like the stance crowd than bro truck, IMO.
  9. jrm223


    Looks like a Cali plate on that gold one, so we shouldn't be too surprised that he (or she) is bonkers, lol.
  10. jrm223

    Tire size settings in Forscan

    I just took mental note of the main speed differences, lol. Like 66 MPH on the dash is actually 70 MPH road speed (posted speed limit between my house & work is 70MPH). Since it's a percent change, you can't really say "Oh, it's off by 4 MPH" - at 66/70, yes. But at 40 MPH indicated, I'm doing like 42-43 MPH road speed. One thing I did early on was drive a designated route where my GPS said how long the trip was and then I compared that to the trip odometer to figure out the difference in ratio. Online calculators show something close to 7% difference in tire size, but my actual test trip showed my speedometer to be off by 5.9%, so 100 miles on the trip odometer is really 105.9 miles.
  11. jrm223


    I haven't done any live data with it, but I do have a ScanGauge II hooked up in my van. My four current parameters are MPH (because my built-in digital display does NOT show MPH like some other members say theirs does), I think RPM maybe, voltage & coolant temperature. I have my SG2 in the little cubby hole above the radio since mine is an XL.
  12. So, my van is at a tire shop right now getting an upgrade to General Grabber AT2 all-terrains. Stock tires have 70K on them and are pretty well worn-down, one pair is at the wear bars and the other pair has a little bit left before the wear bars. I ordered 215/65R16 so I can gain 1/2" extra ground clearance because I scrape too often - but, of course, WalMart wouldn't put them on since they aren't stock-size. I ordered online since they weren't in-stock at my local store. Their worker told me "The tires are 6.67% bigger (I know that, I want more ground clearance) and your van is spec'd for extra-load capacity tires and the tires you bought are standard-load." I looked up the tire specs and Ford's axle specs (GAWR) - my van has 2716lb GAWR for each axle and the tires are rated 1653/ea thus 3306/pair?! 590lbs more capacity then the axle is rated for, but they're not high enough load capacity, that's hilarious! Anywho, pics later after I get the van back. I'll have to schedule a service visit with Ford to reprogram computer for the new tire size and I also still need to get the door latch recall done. Hopefully these tires will help me not get stuck in my own yard like the stock ones did in spring of 2016... Had to get pulled out of my own yard, lol.
  13. jrm223

    Hello from Florida!

    Since that other one had the 1.6L Ecoboost, it was a SWB instead of LWB - you would have lost roughly a foot in length (I forget the exact amount now). The 1.6L only came in the SWB versions. Good job on the cleanup of your new van! I'm not a carpet fan, but that looks pretty spiffy now, lol.
  14. jrm223

    Fifty150's Truck

    Paddles and mudders - it's like that Camaro can't decide whether it should play in the sand or the mud, haha.
  15. I've never had any trouble seeing things in my "small" mirrors (same as pictured above), although I would like to upgrade to the "large" ones. No windows at all behind the front seats and mine is an XL, so no cameras, sensors, doodads, thingamajiggers & whatchamacallits, lol. But, I've also previously had F150's & an F350 that had camper shells, so I couldn't really see through the back on those, either. But it's good that you were able to get what you need for relatively cheap, at least! Looks like a clean install, too.
  16. Where in the Southern plains are you? Maybe another member that already has the equipment can help out? I'm in north-central Texas, myself - right in the middle of the Ft Worth/Abilene/Wichita Falls triangle.
  17. You cannot easily do it yourself on a 2014-15 because the BCM needs to be updated by Ford, first. 2016+ does not require a visit to Ford, though. Tempus will have to bring his into Ford and reference the SSM about it.
  18. jrm223


    M-Sport is a European company, we won't see any on this side of the pond, lol. I looked at their decal packages awhile back and seem to recall a price around $500, so obviously I skipped that. They definitely make some sweet looking custom vans.
  19. jrm223

    Lights staying on with doors open

    Gobills, what year is your van? If it's 2016 or newer, you can easily do it with a laptop, Forscan software (free) and an ELM327 adapter to connect the laptop and van together. More info about it is in that link that Don Ridley shared. But, if you have a 2014-15, you'll need to have Ford update the BCM programming first and then they can also disable the "approach lights" (that's the name in the BCM itself). For 2014-15, you'll want to reference SSM 46321.
  20. jrm223

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    I was just reading through the service schedule earlier today and it said 150K miles for ATF under 'normal' driving conditions. But if you have lots of trailer towing, gravel roads, excessive idling or a car-top carrier, then they recommend only 30K miles before changing the ATF. The town I moved to 2 years ago is gravel roads except the two main ones, but I'm only 1.5 blocks from the main road, so going "in between" the 30K & 150K is probably good. I used to do a lot of highway miles before moving to Texas, so my brake pads are original, too. When I checked them last summer (probably 80-85K), they still looked basically new and very thick.
  21. jrm223

    Sofa Bed

    If you're in a cargo van, anchor inside instead of through the doors. I have a 10ft double hung in mine and wish it was a 9ft, lol. But, I pulled the front headliner/storage shelf out, so I'm hooked onto the steel ceiling directly, front & back. At some point, I'll be putting in insulation, so removing the headliner for now is multi-purpose.
  22. jrm223

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    I haven't, no. I need to bring it into Ford for a right-front strut and I figure I may as well have them do the 100K maintenance while it's in there. Normally, I do my own work, but this is still covered under extended warranty, so it should only cost me $100.
  23. jrm223

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    22497?? Are you a church & grocery driver? lol. My 2015 will be 4 years old (for me) in June and it's already going to roll 100K this week or possibly next week. If I was still living in Illinois with my old 100-mile commute, it'd likely be over 160K already. That's awesome that you got the dash changed out & working. I'd like to eventually do that on mine.
  24. jrm223

    TURTLE roof rack from Turkey

    That looks like a pretty slick setup. You piqued my interest with L-track, but it looks like that's a proprietary hex-shaped setup, so you'll need their special connectors instead of standard L-track ones. I custom bent two L-track rails a few years ago now and really need to stop procrastinating on installing them, haha. But, I pulled my front headliner out last weekend, so now I have less excuse for procrastinating - I'll be drilling and putting in nut-serts (rivnuts, whatever) using the bolt pattern that's on the L-track I bought. One problem is that the rails I bought are a little bit shorter than the channels on the roof, so I won't be able to go full front-to-back with them like I want to, oh well. I can always pick up a couple short sections to finish it out at some point.
  25. You should have kept this all in one thread instead of three separate posts. But the end result looks awesome! Good job. You definitely win the "OEM type appearance" compared to my setup, haha. I completely took out all the false floor pieces and have a 48" tool chest in there, shown in the pictures. I've thought of putting this one at the back doors, but now that I have my hammock hanging in the van, I don't think they'll fit together - I'm already rubbing on the tool chest now, lol. I had to put some wood support blocks (I think they're 1x1" or 2x2" by 3ft long or so) under this chest because it wasn't wide enough to sit on the brackets that the plastic steps originally mounted to (second pic). You can kind of see that wood support at the right side of the second pic and they run on an angle front-to-back. But, I have a 60" that I need to fix a strut on so I can swap the 48" out for the 60" - yes, the big one does fit cross-ways in my cargo van (just barely), lol. At least the 60" box will also sit about an inch or so lower than this 48" one is and I'll be able to put some rivnuts in the step brackets and bolt down the 60" box. Unless I change my mind and try to build a more custom setup since I still have some wasted space under the tool chest.