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jrm223

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Everything posted by jrm223

  1. jrm223

    CARGO VAN JUMP SEAT

    I haven't seen what the base of the second row seats really looks like, but I'm wondering if these points (red box) might be for seat mounting? Possibly where they latch onto in the upright position, since I know they can fold "flat". I have a toolbox/chest in my "foot" well now because I took out the false floor, so I can't go out to get fresh pics for mounting points inside there.
  2. jrm223

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    They're pretty decent, and of course in mud, too. I've gotten the van stuck in my own damned yard many times because it gets swampy at times and the General's are a lot better at self-extraction than the OEM Conti's ever were.
  3. jrm223

    Gen 2 Steelies

    Well, I don't even have the caps anymore, I put them on an '89 Bronco II that I ended up getting rid of a couple months back haha. Ranger/B2 is the same bolt pattern as Crown Vic, though.
  4. jrm223

    Gen 2 Steelies

    I went a little different route, myself... Haha! I had previously tried using the 2002 Ford Ranger style center caps, but for the life of me, I couldn't find the shouldered lug nuts that fit our thread pattern. The shouldered (or some may call it a 'lip'?) lug nuts were needed for the center caps to stay on. That looks pretty slick, though.
  5. That'd be even easier for those of us with cargo vans, lol. I don't have the factory vinyl floor in it anymore, so I'd have to make a nicer access door or cover if I were ever to go in through the top. But right now, I still have extended warranty coverage, so I wouldn't have to worry about it anyway. Which reminds me, I still need to bring the van in for the blown front right strut, haha. When I had the door latch recall & perimeter lights disable, they had my van for 4 days and no loaner - a waiting list! So I was having to catch rides all over... Gotta check with a buddy about borrowing his spare Exploder when I schedule the van to go in, just in case.
  6. jrm223

    ForScan

    I have Forscan and Focccus already, both are free. I'll have to look into those FF2 and ELMconfig programs to see what other features they might offer. I still need to find a way to change tire size to correct for my 215/65's and I don't think any programmers are made for our vans like more popular vehicles. The two programs I have only have a few options for tire size, which are various factory options. My cheap ELM327 device has the MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch like that last one, I was surprised to not see a switch on yours (Fifty150). Maybe the unit you have has firmware programming that automatically switches between the two CAN-bus types, if not you'll be limited on what parts of the computer you can access.
  7. $78 at Rockauto for Motorcraft, not exactly astronomically priced. Of course, if the pump went out with a full tank, that'd be a PITA to drop it. And as I said for myself, it certainly wasn't on purpose - although it's at least good information to know. Don't have to get super stressed out about immediately finding a gas station if the display manages to get down to 1 or even 0 miles. But I usually fill up by 1/8th or sometimes even 1/4 tank.
  8. On my 2015, I ended up running it out once last spring coming home from the bar, not on purpose. The display read 0 miles for at least 40 miles and I was doing 70-75 MPH (this is rural Texas, haha). It was 1am and towns are fairly far apart around here. I ended up running out just two blocks from home, so I walked to get my gas can which only had about half-gallon left and then I filled up first thing in the morning before going anywhere else. For reference, my fuel light usually turns on at 38 miles, but sometimes as high as 42-43 miles left. I've never seen it come on at 50, though.
  9. jrm223

    ForScan

    I can tell you personally that Forscan can turn on (activate) cruise control in a TC2 that was not equipped with it from the factory. I swapped my steering wheel, used Forscan to enable "Cruise Control" AND "Adaptive Speed Control" - I found out the ASC the hard way when CC wouldn't work when I hit the buttons, lol. I've also tried enabling global open/close on the windows, but it didn't work for me... I'd love to correct my tire size, but the 5 or 6 options in the computer are all too small for the size tires that I'm running (215/65R16 General Grabber AT2). Lenovo ThinkPad with Windows 10, and I used this OBDII wired USB converter from Amazon - I'm a computer tech and I prefer wired instead of wireless, whenever possible, except for keyboard/mouse lol. I've used my laptop & converter for my 2015 TC2 and my e-1999 & 2000 F350's with 7.3L ZF6.
  10. The whole "import as a wagon and strip it to a van" ended with the 1st gen TC, the 2nd gen was imported as a van from the get-go because of Ford getting themselves in trouble over the strip-a-wagon method. Automotive News article "Ford Gets a Scolding On Chicken Tax Maneuver" from 2013.
  11. jrm223

    2014 TC on 215/65R16 BFG AllTerrain KO2

    For reference, General Grabber AT2 are the exact same tread pattern for a cheaper $$. Mine have over 20K miles now and no real noticeable wear to speak of, although I don't havea tread depth gauge. Unlike that white TC1, I didn't do any trimming on my 2015 TC2 because I didn't see anything that looks close to rubbing. My thread about switching to GG AT2 tires
  12. jrm223

    3 front seats

    The pedals in RHD are still from left to right: Clutch (for manual) - Brake - Accelerator, just like in the US. So it'd be the right foot, but on the clutch or footrest if an auto.
  13. I transported 10 or 11 sheets of 1/2" R-Max insulation a few weeks ago, looks like I didn't take any pics, though. I used a strap at each end to hold it up against the roof and I had about a finger-thickness of space above my head - but, I lean way back compared to most people (back/spine pain). Luckily, I only had to bring them like 5 miles because doing the whole 85 mile drive home wouldn't have been fun. The rest of the trip was on a trailer, instead. Straps are your friend, even in a van! Especially in a van, because that cargo will fly forward in an accident and you don't have much of anything protecting you from the cargo...
  14. jrm223

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    As I already said, I upsized to 235/65R16 General AT2 tires - they're all-terrain truck style tires & 1" diameter taller than stock, which means they're slightly more difficult to spin than smaller stock tires. And they still break traction, even on dry pavement, with me driving like an old man. So it sounds like you'll need "sticky" high-performance sports car tires for your wife to drive the van, Mustang GT-esque tires on a cargo van, haha.
  15. jrm223

    3 front seats

    That's not a mod, it's a factory seat (maybe an option?) in Europe. Fifty150, click on the link right above the pic I posted, there's a bunch of pictures showing how the seats operate, with a small storage spot under the middle seat. Here's a compilation of a few of the pics.
  16. jrm223

    3 front seats

    Here's a picture I found of a 2014 online with the three-seater, but it's RHD instead of LHD. You'd need to find & import a 2-passenger seat from a LHD in Europe. Here's a link for more pictures, but the price shown is just the RHD seat covers only, lol. See here for more pics, lift-up seats, storage, etc.
  17. jrm223

    tc Gen differences

    Windguy got the pics up already, so I won't put more here. But, if you go to my profile and then Albums, there's pics from when I took out my floor the first time & some of the pics have a measuring tape showing depths and such. I will say that if you don't care about having the plastic steps by the sliding doors, you can just squeak a 60" wide chest toolbox on top of those brackets in Windguy's first pic (the silver brackets at bottom of pic, the plastic steps normally mount to them). Right now I have a 48" chest in that spot and it's too narrow, but I have a 60" that I'm still cleaning grease and crud out of because the guy I bought both boxes from is a diesel mechanic. When the 60" is ready, the 48" may go by the back barn doors, instead. I'll have to get a pic of the setup soon, supposed to be decent temps here in a couple days so I can get the extra junk out of the van.
  18. jrm223

    tc Gen differences

    On the 2nd gen, AC is standard, but power locks/windows are "Optional", but pretty much every dealer around specs their lot orders with power L/W since everyone expects them these days. Like Fifty150 said, you'll want the LWB for the extra length to work with, but the lower roof is not-so-great on G2, so there's tradeoffs. You'll have the footwell behind the front seats to work with, though - you might be short enough to stand fairly comfortably there even with the lower roof. I'm 6ft tall, so I still have to hunch over when standing in that well. If you get a cargo van, take out the false floor to be able to use the deeper well; reports are that some/most 2014's are welded in, but all 2015+ are just bolted in. The length of floor in LWB behind the front seats is right around 7ft or so, near floor level.
  19. That looks to only affect the passenger wagons in Europe, not the cargo vans. Ford is doing essentially the same thing here in the states, stopping car production by 2022 except for Mustang & the new Focus Active (I think that was the name of it, some crossover thing that just recently came out & looks similar to Subaru Outback). All we'll have here is 'Stang, trucks, SUV's and CUV/crossovers because passenger car sales are abysmal.
  20. jrm223

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    This is the first I've heard of terrible wear on the Conti tires. I swapped mine out at 73K miles and they were still somewhere around 1/16+" above the wear bars at that point. I'll have to look again when I get home from work tonight. Since they still have a glimmer of life, those tires are still sitting in my garage at home, because the tire shop gave them back to me for "just in case" spares when I had the General Grabbers put on.
  21. jrm223

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    OEM tires are Continentals, at least on my 2015. My van wheelspins easily ever since new, completely empty (no heavy load), flat dry pavement or wet and still even with the 215/65R16 General Grabber AT2's that I had put on about 10-15K miles ago. These just have a lot of torque off a stop, so you need to keep real light on the skinny pedal, haha.
  22. I was trying to figure out how to get that off, but didn't want to break it. I reckon that will probably require the panel trim tools to safely remove it, yea? For right now, the wire comes out just ahead of that triangle, goes around the outside and then back into the door opening - ghetto as all get out, but I didn't want to chance breaking that piece of triangle plastic. But at least my van and the wire are both black (who knows why Curt would send black for the positive power, although it uses a white ground - which is house wiring color scheme, white neutral).
  23. There's nothing back there except fuel inertia cut-off and taillight wiring, as shown here. Fifty150, the taillight converter has a ground ring terminal attached for a screw-to-body ground, so I temporarily put that on one of the hinge support bolts - in the pic above, they're on the right side D-pillar, but of course I used a driver-side bolt where the converter is. I ran a temporary power wire off the underhood fuse box on Saturday because I was expecting to be bringing a trailer home yesterday, but the tires on it ended up being real bad so first I need to get some tires this week, lol. The lights do work fine, though, I towed the trailer 3-4 miles to another buddies house. I did buy another ball hitch and set it up in the raised position and I can use that other drop ball on my F350 when I get it on the road.
  24. Well, I see you did finally get the hitch off. But, I'll still post this pic from the other thread that someone mentioned (where a guy added the Ford hitch to his non-equipped TC wagon), just in case anybody else needs to remove the factory hitch for any reason in the future. Underneath the van, directly ahead of the rear bolts, will be one of these on each side. This is the same hole that the Curt and other aftermarket hitches use to fish-wire bolts for the forward mount points (the empty hole in pic). For those who mentioned running the Ford & aftermarket hitch to strengthen a hitch platform, the Ford one would need to be removed so the aftermarket can be installed, then put the Ford one back into place.
  25. For what it's worth, I can provide these pictures of my 2015 TC LWB cargo model. As you can clearly see, there's no fuse panel and no extra harnesses that would plug into a trailer module. I'm not really sure what the module is on the passenger side by the sliding door, probably an inertia fuel cut-off in case of serious accident? I never have paid much attention to it.
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