jrm223

A lot of them have first-channel "priority" when there's only two channels. Pop it into reverse when it's wired to the backup lights, and it'll override the 2nd channel camera; take it out of reverse to cut power and 2nd channel will display, again. You may be able to change that in the settings menu, though. You could also test it by disconnecting & reconnecting the primary always-on camera while having a second one plugged in temporarily, just to verify the priority option.

On my 2015 XL cargo, there's a traction control button on the center dash right in front of the base of the shifter, slightly to the right. Tap it once to turn off traction control and then again when you want to turn traction control back on. As G B L mentioned, it resets when you shut off the engine, so it will automatically be back on again next time you start the van.

Wow, with all the CANBUS and "universal parts bin" (or nearly universal), I would have expected the steering wheels to actually be the same. That full-size Transit one looks identical externally to the Transit Connect steering wheel I put in my van, but I guess the module inside it must be different & causing drey's issue. Time for him to return that one and get a TC steering wheel. The programming is already done, so just swapping on the right part will finally get him going.

Alright, mirrors have been picked up by UPS and are on their way! I have a pretty good idea of what you're planning to do & how the mini-stalks "could" look when done, so I'll be keeping an eye out to see how things turn out with your project, lol.

I need to start selling off and getting rid of stuff I really don't need, so the timing just worked out perfectly, haha. I even know exactly where I have the box because I was moving it around the other day to rinse-off/"wash" one of my project trucks that the box is sitting on.

I wouldn't think so, but I honestly don't know. There's so many stupid nanny controls on vehicles nowadays that it really wouldn't surprise me! Y'know, something like "Oh, one of your tires is low on air, so we're not going to let you use cruise control until that's corrected." Haha. You need to fill them all up to spec anyway, so start your troubleshooting there and proceed onward. This next one shouldn't be required, but you could run the "PCM Relearn Procedure" (might be worded differently, it's the first one in the menu where you went to change the BCM specs) to see if that resolves it. And look through the DTC's next time, maybe one or more pointed to an issue that would help resolve the CC; I know most of them will just be generic ones about "lost communication with [xxx] module" from the rewrite, though.

I have the pair of factory 'small' mirrors from my '15 XL sitting in a box, I upgraded to the factory 'large' mirrors. The passenger-side glass has some hairline fractures towards the outer edge, but you have to actually look specifically for them to really even notice when they're on the van, lol. But they'd be great cores for your camera project, though. I see how much mirrors are going for on Ebay, but I'd let them go for like $100 shipped for the pair since I think that's a pretty cool project. Hell, almost makes me want to put cameras back on my project list, but I've got way too many projects (TC & others) as it is!

That's the same unit that I have. Sometimes the write fails, but Forscan will say that it failed, then I just make my changes again. If you connect and do a read of the BCM again, you can verify whether the changes were written.

drey, were you going over 25 MPH when trying to turn on & use the cruise control? I remember reading something awhile back that it doesn't work under 25 or so, so I've never tried personally. The only non-functional problem I had with mine was with only the CC option enabled, once I enabled ASL (which you've already done), mine works fine. When you click the "LIM On/Off" button to turn on CC, does the "Miles to Empty" on the dash change to "SET MPH"? LIM On/Off turns the cruise on & off when you need it or don't need it.

2085mm would be brand new tires. Remember that the diameter & circumference gets smaller as the tires wear, which is why my calculations show 2060mm since my tires have around 58K miles on them now. But when it's time for a new set, I'll kick it back up to 2085.

I should have taken actual written notes that first night of quick 2140/2145mm testing, lol. They're actually both way too large for my 58K mile tires. 1955mm (OEM Gen 2 spec) x 1.054 correction factor = 2060.57mm, 2145mm x 0.96 correction factor = 2059.2mm. I changed my BCM to 2060mm last night, but haven't driven anywhere yet to verify correct speed. The 0.96 correction factor came from my drive home from my project house on Monday using the 2145mm setting, 84 miles known-distance and the tripmeter showed 87.5 miles for the drive home. I only changed the circumference since I couldn't find anywhere in the 'tire size' setting to input the "Customer Tire Size" option (word-for-word, customer not custom) in Forscan 2.3.35 beta. I see 2.3.36 is now available, so I'll update it, again and try playing with that setting some time because I'm getting a P0422 error, "Invalid data sent to PCM" - I'm guessing the circumference being too large for the factory tire size. But, the speedometer does still use the circumference that I set to affect the speedometer/odometer, despite the error.

Well, the two closest options for my 215/65R16 GG AT2's were 2140mm and 2145mm. Doing some brief testing the other night, 70 on the dash with 2140mm showed 72MPH on GPS and 2145mm showed 68MPH on GPS. I ended up going with 2140mm so I can match the dash to posted speed limit and actually be doing roughly 2MPH over. Before changing it, 70 on the dash was 74MPH on the GPS because of the larger tires. "Dash" refers to both the actual speedometer gauge and the MPH setting on my ScanGauge II. My tires do have 58K miles now, so a fresh set of tires will have a little more circumference on them and would probably get closer to an accurate reading with 2145mm setting, I bet.

My Gen 2 LWB has 2 support ribs in the roof; one right above the driver/passenger heads and the second is about halfway through the cargo area.

I've hauled a few standard-length motorcycles in my 2015 Gen 2 TC LWB, an XS650 and such. The front wheel sits about 3-4" or so into my arm space between the seats, but I lose something like 8-9" of roof height compared to your Gen 1. That's a pretty nifty setup you came up with! Lol

Not so much. There are only a few size options presented, at least in my version of Forscan, and none are as large circumference as the General Grabber AT2's that I put on. I ended up leaving the tire size alone in the computer and calculating the size difference to 5.4%-5.9%, if I remember right. 70 dash indicated is 74 to sometimes 75 on GPS. As a sidenote, my AT2's have about 58K miles on them now and measure out to 6/32", 2x 7/32", and 8/32" - new is 14/32", for reference. I haven't gotten stuck with these like I did a few times with the original Conti's, lol. As far as carrying solar panels, you could add a roof/ladder rack like I also did - though I did it for general long stuff, not solar panels in particular. I think I paid about $130 for the kit on Amazon. Obviously, SP's won't weigh as much as these pallet racks, so you won't have any trouble carrying them. I took these home 12 miles at up to 70MPH, no shifting or weird noises, no bowing/sagging, etc. Good & stout! I spaced them far apart, max distance on factory holes, specifically because I knew I'd be bringing home 12ft long beams, so I didn't want a lot of overhang from having the bars too close together. The green uprights are 10ft tall/long for an idea of spacing on my LWB; 8ft items will still fit and have some overhang at each end. These vans have 5 pairs of holes from the factory, so you could space them how you want or even get a 3-bar kit instead of 2-bar for more versatility. Just some useful ideas!

The only bolt-on lowering suspension is from UK. No real aftermarket support for TC in the US because it's such a small niche market.

ALL roof vents and A/C units are standard 14x14" hole size; Maxxair (two x's) is simply a manufacturer brand name.

I have zero headliner in the van still (plan to insulate at some point, as long as it's out) and the additional wind noise from adding the rack really wasn't very much more compared to just the empty cargo van. A little bit more, but not anything crazy, lol. I also have General Grabber AT2 all-terrain truck tires; but I've had trucks with full mud tires before, talk about road noise! Haha

Personally, I prefer to make things easy on myself, so I just use a Sirius XM add-on radio plugged into the AUX port in my center console (2015 XL cargo). Back when I "bought" this radio, S/XM included the full radio & car kit (Stratus 6, in my case) free with the subscription purchase. I've actually had this radio since about 2012 and transferred it across several vehicles over that time. Looks like their current free model is the Onyx EZR here: S/XM Onyx EZR kit, free with 6-month subscription

My solution for the single cargo light in my 2015 was to remove the light completely. Instead, I use a couple magnet flashlights, so I can move them around and even use them outside the van, as needed.

From the outside, it replaces the whole panel. From the inside, there's the fairly large steel door structure that makes the actual opening quite a bit smaller than it appears from outside, as shown in their pics. Desert_Connect has a great photo showing just that in his thread, this pic here:

With the exception of that wood load, I strap basically everything down in back. The wood would have just been a PITA to strap, a net would have been needed and I don't think I still have one. Funny thing is that I actually came up with a design for a custom camper build-out in back that would utilize a partition with a window crawl-thru to the bed, lol. I even have the partition, but I randomly carry large cargo sometimes, thus precluding a full build-out in the back. I need to build a cargo rack off the back for random large things like mowers or tillers, so I can do a camper conversion.

A few pics from this past weekend. I remember some members had questioned why I put my ladder rack bars at the furthest points from each other - this is why! The plan all along was to get these pallet racks home from work. All told, there was 6x 10ft beams, 4x 12ft beams, 3x 10ft uprights and enough wood to make the 5 shelves with a 3-4" gap between each board when assembled together. This was done in two trips for safety reasons, I didn't want to overload the little van, haha. First load, all the wood & 4 of the 10ft beams. Second load, all the rest! The little van that could. My drive is only 11.5 miles but 70 MPH speed limit and nothing shifted or did anything unusual/unexpected, just rock solid up there.

OP hasn't even been on here since August 17th, the day after creating this post. Rather than waiting hours/days/weeks/months on a reply from them, why not spend 5 minutes doing a search? You're on here, so you clearly have internet access, lol.

Is it really still so difficult for people to do an internet search in 2020, with search engines being available for probably 25 years now? It took me less than a minute to find this TC spoiler on Ebay, same exact style as the one on that van. Just needs to be shipped from UK... US aftermarket doesn't really have much of anything for TC's because they're not popular enough here.