jrm223

Rockauto sells the empty Motorcraft knuckles, $160/ea. Probably worth the expense to sit inside to assemble, though. Then you'll also have your OE knuckle as a core for next time you need to do a wheel bearing on the same side. I'm with you on the preloaded/preassembled stuff, though. My right-front strut blew at like 55-60K miles and I replaced both front struts together with the Monroe preassembled struts from Rockauto because I don't own nor want to screw around with spring compressors, especially working outside in Texas summer. And with all the crap that has to come out to replace the strut, I figured I may as well just do both at once and be done with it for awhile. But, I've always been the type that replaces pairs of "wear items" together, especially the little crap like light bulbs.

I didn't even know they're still in business, haha. There are so many clear vinyl paint protection kits these days, so I can't understand using an ugly LeBra, but to each their own! Oh hey, another Texas TC. I'm in north-central region, Jack County.

I just looked up the Gen 1 specs online and the cargo floor behind the seats is only 6ft long, compared to 7' 3.3" for a Gen 2 LWB, so you're losing basically 15" of length with a Gen 1, but you do gain 9-10" of ceiling height in a Gen 1 because they're taller. 2010 TC G1 brochure and 2015 TC G2 brochure, if you want to compare any measurements between the two generations for yourself. The 12ft handrails I had carried were only 1.25" diameter handrail poles, so they're super skinny even though they're long. And that was going from rear driverside corner to front passenger corner, just a few inches from the windshield - and well strapped so they couldn't slide forward! I've already replaced the windshield once a couple years ago for $400 using Safelite, first one in my life and I was 34 at the time lol, so I'd like to make sure that I don't damage it. Turns out, insurance here in Texas doesn't cover windshields unless you opt for it as an add-on premium, oh well.

I wonder if a previous owner installed that as part of an alarm? A thief wouldn't stick around long with that thing blaring inside as they're trying to steal stuff, lol. I don't know if it's just the picture, but it looks like the wall has been modified/cut, too? To me, it looks like a section was cut out and the cut edge has some surface rust, right below the horn. Ain't no telling what modifications some people will do to their vehicle to fit their purposes, haha.

The ceiling length for all Gen 1 (2013 and older) vans will be the same in the US, although I don't know that measurement - I can say definitively say it's too short, though. Gen 2 US vans come in SWB and LWB and I have fit 12ft long lumber (actually two 12ft stair hand rails) inside my van, but that went to within inches of the windshield base (no passenger because seat was folded down). I just went out and measured my cargo van and one thing to keep in mind with my measurement is that I have no front headliner or plastic shelf currently in my van (I'll get around to putting up insulation one of these days so I can reinstall those, lol) - that said, from the top of the windshield, above the passenger seat to the lower back edge of the rear passenger barn door at floor level is around 118"-ish. Kind of hard to accurately measure using a typical tape measure & being alone, but the surfboard might fit that way. But you'll probably want both ends up at the ceiling, and the surfboard is just too long for that. Even going from front-passenger corner to rear-driver corner at the ceiling is only around 9ft or so and that's not accounting for width & shape of the surfboard - I have a 10ft hammock hung exactly that way in mine, but I really need a 9ft one because of the short distance. Basically, you either need a shorter surfboard, or put it on top of the van (luggage/ladder rack) or step up to a full-size van like a Transit 150/250/350. Even the shortest-length Transit has 126" at floor level behind the two front seats, and 116" at the beltline. From an overall size perspective, you're looking at 190" TC LWB G2 (2014+) vs 220" T150/250/350 overall length (that's the 130" RB), width 72.2" vs 81.3", 40ft versus 42.9ft curb-to-curb turning radius, etc. So, 2.5 feet longer, 9 inches wider and you get to keep your board inside - choose ceiling, or maybe even on the side wall, etc? Depends on what all your priorities boil down to and which priorities are more important than others.

Go to a website that sells round keys like that (Google is your friend here) and get one that matches the keycode on there, looks like 0278? It looks to me like secure storage, like a micro-sized safe for keys or even a GPS tracking device.

There's essentially zero performance market for a Transit Connect and, understandably, manufacturers only go where the money is. So don't hold your breath for a Transit Connect tuner, lol. Our vans are technically modified Focus chassis, I wonder if anyone has ever tried a Focus tuner on a TC?

It's up to you to thoroughly research statutes & regulations for NY in regards to adding seating to a vehicle, as well as discussing it with your insurance company; you are responsible for yourself & your actions. In an accident with "too many" people in the vehicle (officially it's only 2 in a US-spec cargo model), insurance may drop you after paying out a claim for a DIY-conversion and then turn around to sue you for re-compensation. The "most legal" route to take for adding seating is an automotive upfitter, they'll have the state licensing and insurance covering the conversion, like in case of a mounting/structural failure in an accident - but, of course, that's also the most expensive route up-front. As for finding a cargo van that's already upfitted, I'm betting you're mainly looking at private-use type websites like AutoTrader? Instead, try Truck Paper and Commercial Truck Trader (basically the commercial side of "AutoTrader" website). You won't find some 'upfitted checkbox' like you're talking about, but those sites will give you the highest amount of commercially-fitted/used Transit Connects. If a second passenger (third body) or more is a high priority, your best bet may be getting a LWB wagon and then fitting it out exactly the way you want it for storage. I'd think you could mount some fork holders on the folded-down second row seat to hold the mountain bike(s), assuming front wheel off. One guy here made an internal ceiling rack to carry long-ish thin stuff, including putting up PVC tubes to carry his hang-gliding equipment. So you can get some pretty cool ideas from the forum.

I lock my '15 G2 running fairly often, no problems. One key/fob still in the ignition, the other in my pocket & hit the lock button on the second one. Since yours is all-manual without any remote control buttons, I can't fathom how it would cause any problems. If there's no power actuator in your locks, the van computer cannot unlock the van - or lock it, for that matter. Easiest way to test it out is open the driver window all the way, leave it running, lock the door and close it, then try to unlock with your other key - it should work perfectly fine. If not, reach in through the open window to unlock it; either way, you'll have your answer.

I took a couple pics yesterday of the XL-size screen. You'll see that I pull the outside down as much as I can, still leaves about an inch gap along the bottom outside, though - and that's with the mirrors folded in. It ends up with a big gap on the inside (that black band in the pic), but I figure having the smallest gap possible outside is better, instead of two equal sized gaps, lol. Y'all should have a much better experience with the XXXL, instead.

For the front doors, get the XXXL as his post shows and gives a link to. They were out-of-stock several weeks back when I ordered, so I just went with XL size since the measurements looked okay and they ended up a bit too small; they leave a sizable gap along the bottom inside & outside. The mirrors are what get in the way, so the XXXL keeps things closed up better to keep bugs out. The screens won't fit over the sliding doors because the slider hardware is in the way. Standard window screen and some Velcro could take care of those windows on a wagon pretty easily, though. When mounted inside, you wouldn't even need to take them off unless you actually wanted to.

The usable floor length of LWB behind the front seats is right about 7ft. Y'all might consider something like this homemade 'front seat cot' for one of the kids? Pics are from Google Images search, so I don't know the kid or parents, lol. But I've seen several different versions of the cot before, DIY or modifying one from the store. Just something to give you ideas, lol. The vans in these pics look to be full-size, so they're wider than our Transit Connects, but I'd bet y'all could probably still get a couple years of the 2yo sleeping in a TC-sized front cot, at least.

It was a bad high-beam/turnsignal switch/stalk, he already replaced it and is A-OK now, lol.

The covers are way easier to remove from inside the van instead of above. There's a couple of little squeeze tabs that will release the cover from the body quick & easy. I used a screwdriver to push the tabs in enough to release, it was easier than getting my fingers onto the tabs.

This is them, but now it's saying unavailable - they were $112.99 when I had bought them a couple months ago. 2-bar ladder rack on Amazon

Amazon sells security film that goes on just like tint, but is clear and built to prevent entry through glass. Security film on Amazon

The bulbs are running through the computer/CANBUS system, so I don't think y'all will be able to get an upgraded harness like older vehicles could do. Y'all might consider switching to LED high beam bulbs, instead. Less wattage = less draw = cooler wiring. I'm guessing front take-downs are either not present at all or don't put out enough usable light down the road while driving?

I'm betting there is no stipulation on that side of the pond requiring them to be actually centered. Most of the EU-spec vehicle pics I've seen all have them on a door or hatch, mounted near the centerline if mounted in barn doors like that. Our bureaucrats crafting the CHMSL statute back in the mid-to-late-1980's decided they were going to require US-spec vehicles to have them only on the centerline of the vehicle. Very few of our vehicles have rear fog lights here, either - from what I understand, they're nearly a standard feature on your side of the pond. The statutes & regulations are very different and what's over there has no real effect on how things are done here, so it's still irrelevant at the end of the day.

And they're federally illegal in the US. Over here, a "third brake light" or CHMSL - Center High-Mount Stop Lamps - is required to be on the centerline of the vehicle. That's the reason why Ford switched the North America-spec vans to the rooftop brake light, we can't have offset. Now, whether Jessica could get away with it or not depends on her local state/area and police, specifically whether they are knowledgeable about the centerline requirement. As collinjx recommended, I'd go with some sort of spacer to lift the fan up slightly. All big box stores (HD, Lowes, etc) sell sheets of plastic, y'all could buy a piece and cut it into a spacer that matches the base? I don't know if anyplace sells pre-cut spacers, but the DIY option can be done right away today or this weekend.

Your passenger wagon (assuming non-panoramic roof) is only rated by Ford to carry 165lbs regardless of what rails are on it (OEM vs aftermarket). Since I don't have OEM rails, I bought a pair of 'universal' ladder racks that are manufacturer-rated for 500lbs, but I'm still limited to 220lbs (including the rack itself) since I have a cargo van.

Not that I can afford it anyway, but I'd like to know about the pop-top on the van in those pics, lol. Looks pretty decent when closed, anyway.

If it's anything like my 2015 gen 2 TC, it's just a plastic panel.

Looking through the owners manual fuse locations, I don't even see any labeled rear stop lamps or tail lamps, odd. One to check would be underhood fuse box, F21, 5A, Stop Lamp Switch since you say your brake lights aren't working.

We seem to be a rare bird in the TC community. You're the first other person I've seen that doesn't have the rear fuse box - I also don't have it in my 2015 XL cargo. I haven't had to mess with the fuses for the rear lights, so I'll try to check it out to figure out where the fuse is.

I had to replace the front struts on mine (2015 TC cargo) last summer. Right-front was also the one blown, but it went at like 70K miles or so and I finally got around to replacing it at roughly 105K. Since I knew everything was going to be apart anyway, I did both sides at the same time. I've always been the type to replace things in matched pairs, even light bulbs. Unfortunately, RF corner is back to making noise shortly after, although the strut seems to be fine since I can't really bounce that corner of the van with body weight like I did with the old blown strut. CV boots look fine and the wheel bearing was replaced @ 102K when I thought my old noise was the wheel bearing and it was actually the bad strut, so I need to get in there more to figure out this other noise sometime. I used the 'preloaded' struts from RockAuto that already have new springs on them, since I don't have a way to swap springs over and this is my only driveable vehicle.