jrm223

A front hitch would be a 100% custom or DIY affair, nobody makes them for TC's. It would need to be made like the Ford Super Duty style front hitches, where it comes out through a factory hole in the bumper (TC's would need the hole cut where the plastic grill is, though). That's one of those projects that has been on the back of my mind, but I've never pulled off the front end of my '15 TC to see if it's actually even viable.

I've always heard good things about the Mishimoto projectors for converting standard-type headlight housings.

Yes, those are the rear pads. The fronts looked like brand new, even with 105K+, so I didn't do anything with them.

I'm coming up on 128K miles with my '15 TC, still on OEM front pads. Last I had looked (I should check again soon), they still appeared nearly brand-new. I changed out the rear pads somewhere around 105K miles solely because of uneven wear from side-to-side. I generally coast down as much as possible instead of being hard on the brake pedal, plus I've lived out in rural Texas since the van had about 45-50K miles, so no more stop & go city/suburb type driving for me. These days is more akin to highway-only driving with a little around-town, so YMMV. The pads on the left are just about the same wear (outers, I think?), but the other ones/inners were noticeably uneven compared to each other.

With a gravel/sand driveway, the vinyl floor is better than the carpet, IMO. So much easier to clean the rocks & dirt off the vinyl, lol. And if those bicycles are being used off-pavement, than all the more reason for vinyl floors for easy cleaning. Most people with carpet end up spending more money to get things like WeatherTech floor covers, made of vinyl/rubber!

It's a Ford, so yes they stay on without the ignition. I've accidentally left my add-on satellite radio turned on in my 2015 TC XL cargo overnight several times before before (sits down in the cupholder) and it was still on the next morning. Same with my GPS occasionally randomly turning itself on for God-knows-why, although that hasn't happened in awhile now. I know there's supposed to be a low-battery safety that will kill power if the battery gets too low, but I haven't ever seen it happen, yet. My accessories are plugged into one of those little 4-port splitters and it's own cord has a small green LED in the plug that goes into the vehicle 12V port, and that's always on.

Oh, wow, good to know! So much for that option, then. Yes, CANBUS is an integrated computerized system for controlling basically everything in the vehicle. A buddy of mine is a school bus mechanic and he said he can rewire a switch onto any wire and the computer will still know what the switch controls, because each switch has it's own specific resistance that the computer system detects. Makes factory type stuff easy (for example, I added cruise control to my own van by just buying a CC steering wheel and then enabling CC & ASC in the computer), but aftermarket add-ons aren't always so easy.

Still with this assumption? Not all are equipped with the aux fuse panel or even wiring for one. I've shared this pic of my van (2015 XL, dealer-optioned with power locks/windows only) before, lol. Having one certainly would make my life a lot easier with wiring accessories, but oh well.

In that case, the cargo light would suffice - it turns on & off with the doors. Since it's only acting as a 12V+ signal, and not supplying amperage, you wouldn't need to mess with relays or anything. I don't know of any other source to use, but I've never researched that since I have no need for it. IMO, cargo light would be the simplest to tap into, at least assuming that the doors aren't being left continuously open longer than the light will stay on.

These new vehicles use digital CANBUS and door modules to figure out when doors are open & closed, so there's no door ajar switches to tap into like on older vehicles. I suppose you might could use the cargo light to energize a relay and then the relay powers whatever accessory you're needing to add, but the limitation there is that the cargo light only stays on for 10 or 15 minutes. Are y'all looking to add more interior lighting or something else?

No diagram, but I can do you one better with pictures of all three, lol. First one is at the B-pillar, second one is just slightly ahead of the C-pillar and third is at the D-pillar. Sorry the rear pic ended up kinda blurry, but it's still easy enough to see. For what it's worth, my van is a LWB, so I don't know if the positioning overall is the same for SWB. You'll need to take out your headliner to make your cut, then probably put it back in temporarily so you can mark the top side of it (through the new hole) to figure out where to cut the headliner hole so things line-up perfectly. The gap between the headliner & steel roof is at least a couple inches wide, so I personally wouldn't try to cut them at the same time.

I do not miss the perimeter lights, at all! Glad I got them disabled, lol. My van is a 2015, so I had to have Ford update the BCM programming in order to get them disabled; I tried to do it myself first but was unsuccessful because of the original programming version.

Unvented propane heaters are a great way to ruin your camper build & possessions with moisture/mold/mildew. They put out a pound of moisture for every pound of LPG used. Either use a vented RV furnace if going propane or the CDH (Chinese diesel heater) like thousands of other campers/RV'ers already have - myself included, in my roughly 40ft long fifth-wheel camper. A 2kw unit will be very overkill for a TC, so don't even try a 5kw or the so-called 8kw (really just a 5kw with an 8kw sticker). For fuel use, the 10L tank (roughly 2.6 gallons) that came with my 5kw unit that I use in my camper needs to be filled every other day when I leave it running 24x7 in winter. A 2kw heater will be more fuel-efficient due to the smaller fuel pulse, plus you won't be running it non-stop in a TC, anyway.

Did the Gen 1 ever have a 3rd-row seat? If not, there's the front seats and the rear seat, or 2nd row. Looking over the pics again, particularly in your first pic from Nov 3rd, I do see the pressed shape and bottom threaded hole that matches that diagram above, located above the plastic cover for the door slide. So that other bracket must be for some other option, I reckon. I don't know that there's much point in trying to remove it, though, since you still have the slide pocket above it getting in the way of cabinets or whatever.

Must be a market thing or recent change; I've had an Enterprise-owned TC XLT wagon as a rental through the Ford dealer I bought my van at, when mine was in getting some work. That was up in northwest suburbs of Chicago around 2015-2016, though.

My tape measure was directly on the TC floor alongside the side wall, but measured to the rubber weatherstripping for the backdoor. I pulled out that plastic trim piece a long time ago, lol.

The one with the two round holes is where the 2nd row seatbelt retractors/reels bolt onto.

I commented on the other thread already, but I'll reply here, too. There are SWB and LWB variants, so that needs to be accounted for. My LWB is 60" from that metal edge to the rubber weatherstripping for the back doors. I don't have that plastic trim piece in my van anymore, but I can probably dig it out tomorrow and measure to the leading edge of it, if someone else doesn't get you a measurement before I can.

G B L's idea is good. Another source is Enterprise, they rent out TC wagons. But wagons and vans are the same body (at least when comparing SWB or LWB to the same), so the front seat area is the same across the board for Gen 2.

That measurement is going to be different for SWB and LWB. I have a LWB and I'm seeing 60" for that spot, measured along the side wall. I have a BedSlide in my van, so measuring the center is more difficult, lol. You may need a small notch where the driver-side barn door latches at the bottom; I don't recall what the hatchback door bottom latch looks like, if that's what your van has or will have. Just something to remember to plan for, especially if you're hoping to put any slide-out drawers at the back door(s).

I'm familiar with those reflective striping kits; not even two feet away from me right now, I still have a leftover roll of 1/4" straight tape from a motorcycle I had before moving to Texas, haha. That's a smart thing to have in a lot of areas! I don't ever use A/C, so my windows are basically always open. So I hardly even notice "extra road & wind noise" like most people would complain about with the tires & rack, lol. That said, I did take the rack off the other day and put nutserts in the roof, so now it's a one-tool (-ish, M8 front & M10 back, I should have just drilled the fronts larger for M10 also) affair to put them back on when needed. Also filled up yesterday so I can get a new MPG baseline since I also recently corrected the speedo error with the larger tires, thus how I verified the 21.45 MPG with tires & rack on. I think I was getting around 23 before the rack, but we'll see. Tape sort of gives a Tron-esque appearance at night, haha. Flash was used to 'light it up' in this old pic.

You do know the exhaust is on the driver-side of the van, not the passenger-side where the plug is/was? Then again, I don't use A/C ever, so my windows are basically always open, anyway.

I've had that rubber plug out for several years (lost it, even) and I've never noticed any signs of water or mud getting in from driving, FWIW.

You'll need a OBD-II adapter and Forscan software to permanently disable the "perimeter lights" or "approach lights", I believe is what Ford calls them. Or bring it back to your dealer and ask them to disable the approach lights. But, if you're okay with disabling them as-needed, you can actually use the turn signal stalk to turn the lights off. It's been a few years since I had to do it (mine are permanently disabled now), but I think it was pull back on the turn/highbeam stalk once and then push it forward once and it will shut them off. Locking & unlocking the van will automatically reset the approach lights, so you'll want to keep that in mind, too - that doesn't include the auto-lock while driving, just parked & locked.

Sometimes you have to MacGyver it, work with what you've got! At least that rack has worked out well for you and probably cost next to nothing, to boot. I'm tired of the MPG hit from mine now (21.45MPG with the larger tires & ladder rack, I think it was 23-ish without the rack - I'm in rural Texas, 70-75MPH speed limits in my area), so I'll be replacing the standard bolt & nut setup with nutserts this week, maybe today, so I can install & remove the rack as needed with just one tool to make things easy on myself. My van is sort of a Swiss Army knife for me; I need it to do lots of different things, so it has to be somewhat modular & adaptable, haha.