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jrm223

T.C. Member
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jrm223 last won the day on October 14

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About jrm223

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  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • My. T.C.'s Year
    2015

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  1. There are clear ceramic products (can't really call it "tint") available that will block 70% of heat trying to come through the windshield. As mentioned, it's pretty expensive, but worth it. You can also get ceramic tint in different levels that will block more heat than any cheap non-ceramic tint, but at a cost. Check out this video, they use a heat lamp & meter to show the difference between cheap junk tint and ceramic. YouTube Texas Tint Masters video
  2. jrm223

    Front seat swivel/reverse/flip for Gen2 FTC?

    If you look close at that center console, it looks like they cut out a huge section of it along the passenger seat; you can see a big notch cut out by the corner of the seat. I bet it has enough material cut away to allow the seat to swing around.
  3. I had Safelite come to me to do my windshield because their nearest location is about an hour away from me. Paid them right around $400 or so, probably closer to $425 with tax and such, back in Nov 2017 I think it was. Mine is the base model XL cargo, no inside mirror even. Local glass shop had quoted me higher than Safelite, but I'm also in rural Texas halfway between Fort Worth, Abilene & Wichita Falls (middle of the triangle, lol).
  4. If you are satisfied with only partially charging that LiFePO4 battery (about 70% max), then go ahead and use the direct-connection charger methods talked about above. But, I assume you want it fully charged, so you'll need the proper MPPT DC-DC charger that is designed for lithium batteries. Lithium-based batteries charge very differently than old school SLA/AGM style batteries - which vehicle alternators are designed for. It's not as simple as "give it power to charge and it's good" when it comes to those batteries. As the saying goes "Anything worth doing, is worth doing right." https://www.progressivedyn.com/frequently-asked-questions-on-converting-to-lithium-charging/
  5. jrm223

    2019 connect horn in the rear jack compartment?

    Could that be hooked up to the alarm system, perhaps? Someone breaks in and that annoying bastard is going off in the back, but it's difficult to find & cut, lol. Stand outside the van and hit the horn on the steering wheel to make sure it does not sound off, that would be real annoying while driving.
  6. GBL beat me to it; windshields are laminated already, but the composite is in the middle of two layers of glass. So, you still get some tiny shards when a windshield gets shattered. Tint or clear ceramic would hold those tiny shards, at least. Plus, ceramic tint (or even clear) is the best thing you can get for reducing heat inside the vehicle and it makes a much bigger difference than exterior paint color.
  7. Yep, that's about how mine look, too. When I rotate tires, I just give them a quick glance and think "Just what I expected, no noticeable wear, moving on..."
  8. I only made the point about bbfly since there are so many cheap adapters claiming to be "elm327 compatible" and causing lots of issues, but I haven't looked at the Forscan list recently to see what models are on it. Just the name of it sounds like one of those cheap Chinese knock-offs, at least to me. Before buying mine, I had found it on a Forscan discussion on a Focus or Mustang forum and several users had recommended it, so I knew it would work properly, lol. As for your questions - I used Forscan since I don't have IDS. The ASC was in the same module that CC was in, but it was down towards the bottom of the list - I can't remember which module because it's been awhile. The setting was called either Adaptive Speed Control or Adjustable Speed Control.
  9. When you're only putting in like half-dozen or so rivnuts, there's no reason to buy any special tools for it. All you need is a properly sized screw, washer, nut & a couple wrenches. Why make things expensive with dedicated tools for only 6 or so rivnuts? lol. Whenever I get around to installing my L-track rails, I'll be using rivnuts with the below procedure and drilling holes in the van body that match the factory holes on the L-track itself. Now I just need to quit procrastinating and get it done - I've had the rails DIY bent to match the roof profile for at least 3 years now...
  10. jrm223

    Installing hammock in van

    This probably won't really help you a whole lot since I have my headliner pulled out completely (cargo van, so only had front headliner). But, here's where I have my hammock hooked onto in the van, it goes front-passenger to rear-driver because my hammocks are all 10ft long - a 9ft one would fit a lot better, but I wasn't about to buy one specifically for the van. There's a few things that I have planned that needed the headliner out, so I figure I'll just leave it out and the hammock hanging until I get around to these projects (like custom rails on the roof, insulation inside, etc).
  11. Yea, I've seen talk about the "advanced" braking system somewhere in the forum, applying the rear brakes first. I coast down as much as possible and I'd say I'm generally pretty light on the brakes, when I'm able. Just goofy how we always used to change front brakes only (well, maybe 2:1 or 3:1) and now I'm changing rear brakes only, haha.
  12. That's an interesting observation. I reset mine at every gas fill-up, even though I no longer keep a log book of my fuel mileage, so it's never gone past a few hundred miles for me. You did a pretty awesome build, though!
  13. Tint goes on the inside, so I don't know why that would help with preventing rock chips. I've heard of a special coating that can be applied to the outside of windshields that fills in all the micro surface imperfections on glass and thus prevents small rocks and such from causing damage. The professional treatment runs a few hundred dollars, so I haven't looked up anyone to do it. But, doing some Google searching, I see there are DIY kits available, too. Something like this one - I may have to try this out soon, it would probably help make bug removal easier, too. I have to clean my windshield weekly because it gets too hard to see through the dead bug guts, lol.
  14. I had my 2015 into the original dealership for some service back in beginning of June at 102K and they told me my rear brakes had "2 mm left" and wanted like $330 or something for the rear brake job, I told them no. Bought the pads & rotors from Rock Auto ($50) and finally got around to changing them a few weeks ago at around 108.5K. The rotors had no discernible wear on them (no lip), so I didn't bother swapping them out. But, I did swap the pads - with far more than 2mm left on them - due to the uneven wear pattern. In this pic, the close pair is passenger side and the far pair of course is driver side. The three thick ones were roughly 60% of the material thickness on the new pads. My front brakes still look brand new, though, and they're also OEM original. I put plenty of grease on the slide pins, so hopefully it won't have this uneven wear, again. I've seen people talking about doing rear brakes at like 5K to 35K miles on TC's, so I guess I can't complain too much. Good job on the 200K! I've had one windshield done also (out of pocket, $400) and prefer not to do that again, haha. My insurance policy doesn't cover windshields, unfortunately.
  15. jrm223

    14+ battery longevity

    Yours has already outlasted my OEM battery, haha. I had to get mine replaced back at beginning of June with 102K miles on the van, also a 2015 model.
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