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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Don Ridley

    Footwell Lighting?

    I added multi-color LED footwell lights to my 2016 TC. Amazon has dozens of these lights for $30-40. I chose a set that has a simple controller and (4) 9” tubes. I only used 2 tubes and modified the cigarette lighter power cord to connect to the interior light circuit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I04Z7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I mounted one tube on the bottom of the glove box. Remove the glove box by carefully removing the pins on the bottom (you can see in my photos I was not so careful). I trimmed some of the plastic on the glove box to mount the tube flush. I verified the tube was not visible from the driver or passenger seat. I mounted the other tube under the steering wheel. This one simply zip-ties to the metal frame. Wiring: Cut off and insulate the wires for the unused light tubes. I added extension wire for the driver’s side LEDs (there are 4 wires). This made fishing the wire across the bottom of the dashboard easier. I installed the controller in the glove box. The controller is in the glove box and wire feeds over the back of the box. Power will come from the interior light circuit on the Body Control Module behind the glove box. Access is easy with the glove box removed. Connector C2280F (marked on the BCM) has 20 wires. Pin 12 is a brown and green striped wire. This is the power for the interior lights. Find the BRN/GRN wirefootwell.docxfootwell.docx coming off the connector. Use a POSI-TAP connector to splice into the BRN/GRN wire. The TC wiring is 18 or 22 awg. The red and grey 20-22 awg connectors work well unless your extension wires are larger. https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Dynamics-Posi-Tap-Wire-Connector/dp/B009TG686Q/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=positap&qid=1560916105&s=automotive&sr=1-21 Check if you have connected to the the right wire by measuring the voltage on the POSI-TAP with the interior lights on, then off. The GND connection can be any metal on the dashboard frame. I drilled a new hole and used a sheet metal screw. The controller has a lot of modes but I selected the dark blue color and never change it. The LEDs change color by applying voltage to different wires. If you ONLY want one color (e.g. green) you can omit the controller and connect power to the wire that gives you the desired color. Some colors require multiple wires to be powered (white=all wires powered). Don’t worry, the LEDs won’t be damaged if you connect power backwards. This is a simple upgrade and using the POSI-TAP connectors saves a lot of hassle. A nice feature of the connector is it won’t cut the wire being tapped. If you tap the wrong wire, just wrap electrical tape around the tiny hole it made. The LEDs will flicker at the end of the dimming function on the interior lights. footwell.docx
  2. 1 point
    Don Ridley


    Here was the response from Forscan: Hello, FORScan recognizes vehicle by PCM strategy number. If you want FORScan work correctly with your new BCM, you need to remove vehicle profile after the replacement. More info: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9196 As for new options availability, please provide more details. If" PCM" is not a typo, maybe this is the problem. The PCM strategy may not be as up to date as the BCM. You don't need to update the vehicle profile if you connected to Forscan for the first time after the BCM update. Bottom line is we can't get dark mode to work on some vehicles. You guys can try contacting Forscan if you want to troubleshoot this. They would need specifics on your configuration, logs etc.. contact@forscan.org
  3. 1 point
    Don Ridley


    One explanation why Forscan isn't working may be that Forscan determines which options and functions are available based on the VIN or model year. Updating a module won't turn on the new functions in Forscan. I have sent Forscan an email. Let's see if they respond. My TC has the BCM calibration that doesn't support dark mode so I can't test anything.
  4. 1 point

    Ventvisors or Deflectors

    Oh, you got the nicer ones, haha. I bought the AVS stick-on ones that go all the way down to the front edge of the door. I have it in the back of my mind that if these ever get broken, I'll replace them with the ones you have. I can't help much on the four-door part, since mine is a windowless cargo van.
  5. 1 point
    Double Nickels


    For the battery, you will need to remove the air filter box, the power supply fuse box, battery tray cover, and disconnect the ground from the body.
  6. 1 point
    Don Ridley


    The WRITE button is used to make changes to hex data in that register. I have not used the RESTORE function. I don't know why the as built data does not exactly match the Forscan data. You can change individual hex bits in the IPC, ACM but not the BCM. All BCM changes will be done using the menu selections. There are configurations in the central configuration that we can't see and can only be changed by the functions built into the menus. Save a copy of every module. A mistake in one may propogate into others. There are many tutorials. This one is for the F-150 and explains how to change individual hex bits. FORScan Tutorial.pdf
  7. 1 point


    Ford ETIS never showed any change for my BCM after I had Ford update it & turn off the approach lights, so I don't think that will be a reliable way to verify the BCM update. My approach lights are definitely off, so the BCM was updated, lol. As for the battery issue, I had to get mine replaced a few weeks ago, even before the 4 years anniversary of me buying the van; but, it had 102K miles at time of replacement and the battery was going bad for a few weeks, problems started at about 98-99K miles or so for me. I can probably hook up my laptop tonight to read my BCM parameters, after I reinstall Forscan since I had to blow-out/reset my whole laptop due to various issues.
  8. 1 point


    Thanks Don - appreciate the quick reply and info. Your confirmation gave me the confidence to continue exploring but with the battery charger connected going forward. I had a better session today and saved the BCM and IPC as-built configurations as a starting point before I make any changes. Also took a screen shot so I could save it in readable text format. I've got a question regarding what Forscan shows in the as-built config versus what Motorcraft was showing for the IPC Module. Below is screenshot of both. In comparison, Forscan doesn't show all the registers but does show a few extra ones in the upper range (720-24-01 and 720-25-01) that didn't show up on the Motorcraft site. Wonder why? Also, what are the Restore and Write boxes to the right of several of the registers? I'm assuming those are the only ones that Forscan will allow you to change. Thanks!
  9. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    No AC after Carwash

    From the service manual on a 2016:
  10. 1 point
    Don Ridley


    Your experience is normal. 1. Your battery is near the end of its lifetime. My 2016 shows 30% life left in the battery monitoring system (a feature on the 1.6l Ecoboost). 2. The DRLs and "run" position when using Forscan puts a big load on the battery. 3. Now I ALWAYS use a battery charger when making changes using Forscan. When the vehicle was new I got away without using one. 4. Reading data and DTCs don't require any battery backup/protection.
  11. 1 point
    G B L

    Citroën Berlingo

    It sounds like a good plan, I would have enjoyed real pictures of the rig with the doors.
  12. 1 point
    Double Nickels


    The connector is on sale right now, on Amazon. I just ordered.
  13. 1 point

    Range left when low fuel light comes on

    My 2010's light comes on and the display says there's 50 miles left. When I put fuel in it at close to zero miles left, it takes about 13 gallons or a little more than that. Considering the fuel economy it gets, that's somewhere from 40 to more than 50 more miles before it runs dry.
  14. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Footwell Lighting?

    BCM connector layout and pin-out
  15. 1 point

    MK2 Lowering Springs

    OK everyone, let's talk lowering springs for the MK2 (2014-2018). I've found three (four) different products: Mod Your Connect- UK based, comes out to $250 including shipping. Cheapest option. https://www.modyourconnect.co.uk/product/myc-connect-mk2-fr-lowering-springs/ AST Lowering Springs- $350, no reviews anywhere. Fairly known brand https://www.carid.com/ast-suspension/25mm-40mm-front-and-rear-lowering-springs-mpn-astls-17-045.html?singleid=688519468 Eibach Lowering Springs- $400, well known brand, also no reviews https://www.vividracing.com/eibach-prokit-performance-springs-set-springs-p-152634625.html The full coilover kit by Vmaxx-$754 includes shipping https://www.modyourconnect.co.uk/product/v-maxx-mk2-transit-connect-coilover-kit/ Opinions? Anyone have the AST or Eibach kit can vouch for them? I probably won't opt the full kit due to cost. Thanks in advance.
  16. 1 point


    I then slapped the mat back down and cut out the rubber around the hatch cutout. Dropped in the hatch, popped in the step trim, and screwed down my cargo tie downs. Finished product, thanks for looking at my creation, feel free to ask about anything I might have left out!
  17. 1 point


    Surfing ? People at our age don't surf , very grateful that i can still walk .
  18. 1 point


    @bone - great job on your installation. Thanks for sharing your work. I too captured this storage space in my 2015 cargo with a different approach. I couldn't stand the vinyl cargo mat so used carpeting on plywood instead. I separated the foam from the vinyl mat and used that as filler under the plywood, which is very good sound proofing material. It's great to have the extra storage space making use of this dead space. Time for you to finish those bare door panels next! I used black paint on mine. Gives the van a nice finished detail.
  19. 1 point
    Hi Folks, just joined the forum, heres my 2007 camper conversion. Looking at lifting the front and putting on some AT tires, 18" rims are from the previous owner and look nice, but not much use off road here in Sweden.
  20. 1 point


    Hi folks, I've been playing with Forscan on my 2018 TC (specifically to disable approach lights). I wrote up a complete tutorial on my website. I'm just learning Forscan so I'm sure I have some small details wrong, but hopefully that will help others.
  21. 1 point

    TC Towing a Backhoe

    LOL< Cool that looks like fun! I came to see what crazy mf'er was gonna haul a tractor.
  22. 1 point
    The Auxiliary Junction Box (AJB) is located in the access panel in the right rear of the van. The AJB has a lot of spare fuse slots for switched and constant power. The AJB is made by Lear in the UK or EU and finding a US source for the terminals has been a challenge. After much trial and error and with the help of DonShockley, here is a local source for the terminals needed to properly add circuits to the AJB: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-968857-3-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKpfjTZYxfnESgPEJGoSWVDw%3D http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-968859-3/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhqy3aI3kZvUXP11VT0ejBFP6KL61KptWcoM%2bOzVMsngg%3D%3D The 968857-3 terminals are for #14-10AWG wire. The 968859-3 is for #10AWG and larger. You will need a crimping tool but they can be found for around $15. The only problem with this solution is you need to buy 100pcs for most terminal sizes. I have all the terminals I will need but maybe others can share the costs. Adding circuits properly and safely is well worth the cost and effort. No unsightly splices or piggy-back solutions! The AJB is fed by a 70 amp fuse so you can safely add a 20 or 30 amp circuit and numerous smaller ones for Led lights or other low power accessories. The AJB has two types of spare fuse slots: one has single-sided contact with the power buss bar and other has double-sided contact. Use the double sided ones for high amperage circuits. You can see the copper contacts from the front of the AJB. AMP_Lear terminal spec.pdf
  23. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Recovery/tow hook

    Thanks for the replies. I will contact the dealer. I will never need the tow hook, but now I really want one.
  24. 1 point
    CAGE B8

    MK2 TC (2014 up) COILOVERS completed !

    I don't have the exact figures of the spring ratings (im sure I will in the next few days), but it rides like pretty much every application specific coil over equipped car I have ridden in that wasn't bottomed all the way out. The way I went about parts cross referencing as well, the application I chose to shop shared the SAMe EXACT part number for Coil springs in the Ford Parts catalog as the Transit Connect LWB Van. I can't delve too far into what application just yet, considering the following: I posted the above pic to the MEGAN FB page and got a response inquiring about the application I used, and I expressed my concerns about improvements/changes that could be made to the rear to basically seal the deal on this being a TRUE "suitable for retail" application to be added to their catalog. For that I want to hold off for a few days on letting out the info. I actually tried contacting the folks at Fortune Auto considering they aren't but a 20 min drive from me, but the person on the other end of the message box either had no clue what I was talking about (doubt it) or didn't want to help me with info thinking I was up to no good,after free stuff, or either assumed I was a "BS'er". I really just wanted to be able to "put hands and eyes on" to measure/eyeball the items before I purchased. I even COMMITTED to buying whatever worked while I was there. Isuppose they didn't want some dude with a VAN coming around to help add to their product line up. I have noticed a lot of folks looking to "lift" ..... I can assure you that this particular set of coil overs in the FRONT will give AT LEAST 2" lift over stock considering how much of the threaded adjustment is left on the shock body when it was set close to "stock" ride height (approx 3.5/4". Not to mention, the pre-threaded aluminum perches leave just over an inch of stud left sticking out of the top of the shock tower. I'm sure that would be good to run a solid strut spacer without an sort of worry about failure. As for the bumper - I did have them painted (came as black), and they actually match perfectly. The reason they look a different shade is that the entire van received a decent wax before adding the painted parts. Tripping to PA/NY/FL over the past 4 months without bathing it has retained dirt better on the non-waxed parts. The van actually spends more sitting in between long runs than anything. it only has 10k on the odo in right at a year of use, but its been to West NC 4 times, FL once, PA twice , NY once, and a few other... really no where that wasn't over an 1:30 one way. I need to clean it lol Here's a few I grabbed today in the rain. Excuse the rake, I raised it up a bit to load a motorcycle and deliver across town, this was on my way out of the drop off.
  25. 1 point

    Overheating issue

    Ok ActiveIndy, thanks for the update. Glad we could save you a few dollars!