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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.
  2. 1 point
    I've searched for the past few weeks and can't figure out what these are for, can anyone help? It's in the 2015 ford transit connect wagon... Sorry, I'm noticing my drawing on the photo looks a little obscene... It was not my intention!!!
  3. 1 point
    I called this morning and while setting up the appointment, the service advisor made a strange comment that the recall was for the front doors only, not the sliders. I went back to the original recall notice I received and it specifically mentioned the slider latch breaking, nothing about the front doors at all. So I decided to go take a look at my front door latches. They were not very worn at all and I could see a few very small scratches on the screws. It appears that they may have done the recall on the front doors only and never touched the rear door sliders that the recall was intended for at all. I called back and had them add that info to the ticket. Still not sure how it will play out, but I feel a little more confident that I know why it broke, the recall repair was never fully completed. Hopefully once the dealership sees the same thing they'll have the sense to finish the job under the recall and not try to stick me with out of warranty charges. As a side note, if you ever have this problem with your doors failing to latch, here's a way to strap it so the door is secure and the vehicle is drivable. I initially only had a single strap pulling the door in, but was getting momentary "door ajar" warnings on each right turn. Not trusting a single strap anyway, I added a backup but still got the warning with both straps pulling in towards the center. But then I thought to rig the second strap so it was pulling the door forward against the pins on the door frame. That worked much better and stopped all the door ajar warnings. Since my seats were already out, I used the seat base mount for the pull in strap. For the pull forward strap I looped it around the bottom post for the drivers seat belt attachment. And both straps are attached at the door end by looping around the center slider mechanism mount pivot pin. I didn't think to take a photo of that part.
  4. 1 point
    mrtn

    2012 fuel injector replace

    Leaning hard on two empty bottles of seafoam probably has some humor value.
  5. 1 point
    sKiZo

    Different Cargo Dimensions?

    ** Not seeing anything for the older TCs at the links provided. I had the roof bumped up on a 2011 with good results.The new top adds about a foot, and height was around 54" without. Few other mods so far on what's still a work in progress. I was gonna get fancy with steps and such (notice the step bumper on the rear doors, but decided to go with a portable for the side door. Not much weight, 350 pound capacity, sturdy with no wobble, and just pick it up and toss it inside when not in use. The two stepper is perfect for splitting the height up to the cargo floor. I'll be adding a couple grips once I get the "kitchen" and storage unit installed. Six foot tall, so I still have to hunch over a bit, but I can actually walk into the thing now. Mine came with a two piece cargo wall, so I just removed the section behind the drivers seat so I'll be able to fold that forward for a bit more sleeping room. Left the passenger side cargo wall in place as it's handy for the already mounted inverter and such. Total length from the rear doors to the back of the drivers seat set all the way back is around 70 inches. Width is four feet between the wheel wells, and about 57" wall to wall. Yes, you DO need to get creative when setting it up, but there's a lot of different options, and lots of ideas from other folk who've converted them over the years. My plan is to just use it for a weekend solo camper, so it should work fine, and I figure it'd be good for a couple if you're extremely friendly.
  6. 1 point
    Fifty150

    2012 fuel injector replace

    Ford wants $3 to install a little green tree that smells funny.
  7. 1 point
    Fifty150

    2012 fuel injector replace

    At the local Acura dealership, they charge for that service. Yes! Honda owners will pay the dealership to "install" a little bottle of Techron.
  8. 1 point
    HeRodeCBR

    Hello from Minnesota

    So I am still a novice on how to best use this site for adding text and photos. Not quite sure wether This is all one post or how the heck I got two of the same shots in the first post. I will keep messing with
  9. 1 point
    donuts

    2012 fuel injector replace

    Try running a couple bottles of Chevron Techron concentrate through it before changing injectors. https://www.techronclean.com/ Walmart usually has a decent price. Beware that the boxes of 6 at Costco usually aren't the concentrated version. Plus you probably should go with the big bottle. Maybe you need the one specific for fuel injector cleaning...
  10. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Harbor Freight

    $200? I don't see spending that much on a Harbor Freight set, just to get one piece. I hate buying open stock tools because I know it's cheaper to buy a set. But then again, I've bought a lot of open stock tools, because I didn't want to spend more on a set, when I only needed 1 piece.
  11. 1 point
    mrtn

    Official Membership Card

    Saw a brand new looking one (with a Finnish plates, not the one on the pic) a couple of weeks ago:
  12. 1 point
    mrtn

    Official Membership Card

    It’s deliberate. They want to separate the Connect and full size Transit. They make more money on professional vans so they need to make sure the Connect is not fully usable for building contractors and such other than to haul tools and compressors around. It may feel too big of a jump in the US market but they actually have the Transit Custom in Europe to fit exactly between the Connect and fullsize.
  13. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Transit wipers gone wild!

    You need a scanner to work on these vehicles. Everything is controlled by micro computers (modules). A scanner will show the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) that have been triggered by the wiper operation. An OBDII reader is not sufficient. Buy an aftermarket scanner or use Forscan and an ELM converter. Attached are the first 6 pages of the wiper troubleshooting from a 2016 service manual. Note the DTCs on the last 2 pages. This is where you need to begin. wiper operation.pdf
  14. 1 point
    Mike Chell

    New-ish Owner

    Welcome to the site. This "oil life" issue seems to be a common discussion point ... and no one seems to be in agreement with the people who ACTUALLY work in the petroleum industry. Since I am an instructor at a school where we teach people how to work on vehicles of all types, I've had the occasion to speak to visiting representatives from that industry. Engine oil will last well over 10,000 miles in a good engine. Even the "cheap stuff" from discount and department stores will last for more than 10,000 in a good engine. It's the definition of "good engine" that determines how often you should change your oil. New vehicle, less than 100,000 miles on it, with oil changes at the required intervals ... is still running within "break-in" tolerances. Modern day engines, unlike the folklore, are NOT designed to fail. They will outlast most other parts of the vehicle, if the lubrication system is maintained. I would say, without reservation, that you can trust the "oil change indicator" on your new vehicles.
  15. 1 point
    Jiquay

    Official Membership Card

    BSUPC: They'll buff it & paint it but it'll still cost you $30g+ to look as good as mine 8-) GK
  16. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Fuelling the Air conditioning

  17. 1 point
    Jiquay

    Official Membership Card

    I dated a woman for 3 months because she knew more than 3 ways to use WD40...
  18. 1 point
    mrtn

    All Season Tires

    As I have always said, it means equally bad in All Seasons.
  19. 1 point
    Mike Chell

    Trailer

    If you really want to tick people off ...
  20. 1 point
    Then you can have unfiltered air going directly into your engine. That does not sound appealing.
  21. 1 point
    Mike Chell

    Sources

    JC Whitney still exists ... online only, I think.
  22. 1 point
    windguy

    Can I get a Valet key for my 2010 XLT?

    @timbo - The keypad is great. I use it all the time because I surf and windsurf in the ocean and don't want to stash my fob or carry it in a waterproof pouch. If I lose my fob for some reason, I always have a way to get inside the van where I have a spare key stashed. As you can see from the pic below, I mounted mine on the rear door because that's what I mostly use for getting gear in/out and the location is most accessible. You first program the keypad like a normal keyfob and then mount it anywhere with adhesive. Don't think it will come off on it's own. Battery is supposed to last 5+ years, I think. There is another thread about setting up the keypad (see link below). Very easy process. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2991-keyless-entry-keypad/?tab=comments#comment-8793
  23. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Upgraded 2016 speakers

    As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.
  24. 1 point
    It really depends on your current factory radio. Does your vehicle have the CD player? If it does, then there are 4 speaker outputs. If you have just the AM / FM radio like I did, it only has 2 channels. Anyway I have included a picture of an aftermarket harness that has the speaker channels labeled. The 4 channels are in the white / gray / green / purple pairs. The negative is towards the top near the mating release tab. White/White with black= left front Gray/Gray with black stripe= right front Green/Green with black stripe= left rear Purple/Purple with black strips= right rear
  25. 0 points
    k9-design

    Cornucopia of problems. I need therapy.

    Hello forum. New here. NOT new to Transits. I have a 2010 Transit Connect. I bought it used in 2012 with 35K miles on it. Last Friday it rolled over 275,000 miles. As you can see, I drive a lot. Its name is Sexy Beast. He and I have been places. There is nothing in my life I depend on more than my Transit, and nothing causes me more aggravation. It has had lots of work done but maybe no more than is to be expected of a car with high mileage. It lives with three persistent dash indicators : check engine light (see below), the traction control light (never figured out why on that one), and the tire pressure light. Can I tell you my current problems? Any input is appreciated. Sexy Beast got the death sentence last fall. It was throwing codes left and right and kept blowing up the spark plug and coil in cylinder 2. The local Ford dealer finally said, you need a new engine. Low compression on #2 . I said, not happening, have kept driving on it. The marvelous thing about the situation, AT IDLE, cylinder #2 takes a vacation. We have literally pulled the whole plug out while it's idling, and nothing happens. It just idles away merrily. When you add some RPMs #2 wakes up and works totally fine. See, it has taught itself to be MORE EFFICIENT! Genius! I am very familiar with what it feels like to drive a car with an inoperable sparkplug, and it does not do this. The only prevailing problem is it idles too low. RPMs are around 750 at idle, they go up to about 1000 if it's in park or neutral, sometimes it dips below 750 and tries to sputter out. When you put it in drive and take your foot off the brake to switch to accelerator, it really goes low and has even died a few times on me. So question numero uno, is there a way to raise the resting idle RPMs? More immediate problem, mainly why I am here to vent. Last week Transit was in the shop for new inner and outer tie rods on both front wheels ($550). The day after I got four new tires ($390). Drove to my parents' for the weekend. AC had gradually gotten warmer over the past few months, so we bought a charging kit from the auto parts store ($50), after doing that, AC back to nice and cold. Most difficult part was finding the low pressure tube...those sneaky devils at Ford... During the AC venture, my dad got to witness first hand how much oil the car was leaking, which has been going on for months. Ford dealer couldn't pinpoint it last week while it was in the shop, and frankly, I was out of money to throw at it. My dad ended up taking it to a shop on Monday, and they replaced the oil sending unit which 100% fixed the leak, so yay, and kudos to dad, who paid for it ($500). So add that up, $1500+ in work last week. After all that, Sexy drove like a superstar. Until today. Just now I go to run some errands. Warm car up like always, turn AC on medium, take off. I get about 2 miles down the road, realize AC is blowing hot then instantly observe that temp gauge is on HIGH. NO BUENO. I pull over and turn the car off. F me!!!!!!!! After about ten minutes I fire it back up, turn off AC, drive home. I let it idle in the driveway with the AC on low. As I'm standing at the front of the car listening for the AC compressor (shoulda popped the hood but you know, key's in the ignition), the car very peacefully dies. F ME!!!!! Let it sit for about 20 minutes. Take it on another test drive. Drove about 3 miles with AC off. All fine. I drive home with AC on low. Fine. As I pull onto my street, I put the AC on medium. As I pull into my driveway, the car peacefully dies again. No change in temp gauge. At this point I call Dad crying, he has me turn the car on and idle, change from park to neutral to drive, it's actually idling at about 1000 so doing OK, turn AC on and off, nothing changes, it's all OK. It's during this time I realize that the coolant in the white reservoir is really low. Minimum line is halfway up the reservoir, there's only about a quarter inch of coolant at the bottom. How did I not notice this before. Dad says let the car cool down completely, like tomorrow morning, add water. So are today's weird problems because I was low on coolant and it was freaking out (and how did myself, my dad, and three different car shops all miss that in the past week), or is my AC all screwed up now after being charged and that is causing the problem? Why does this stuff happen all at once? Why can't I find a big pile of money and just go buy a new car?????? Thanks for listening. And hopefully sympathizing. And hopefully empathizing, so you can give me advice. --Anney in Florida
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