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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/28/2021 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Nokay

    New FTC/Van owner

    Greetings! This is my first post being new to the forum (technically 2nd as I posted this in the Brakes/Suspension category) and van ownership but have been scouring the forum since I purchased it a few weeks ago. A few weeks ago I bought a 2018 Transit Connect Cargo LWB 2.5L with 16,5xxx miles and I can't believe it took so long to get myself a van! I live in California and regularly ride mountain bikes and surf and it is so convenient to not have to take my gear out of the van all the time or be worried about my gear if I grab food or go into the store for something. I will eventually build it out for trips/camping but I need the storage for a bit so for now I have: Added hitch and bike rack Added drapes Put sound damping material everywhere except the floor and above the headliner (for now) have 2 more boxes to add A few cargo nets for simple storage New speakers/tweeters (thanks Donridley for speaker post/how remove door panels) Cop center cap conversion haha Added keyless entry pad (crucial for riding or surfing to not have to bring my keys) - For my 2018 I used P/N - KB3Z-14A626-A - took awhile to figure out how to program but worth the 30 minutes it took Coming soon: Remove false floor, add 2nd row single seat from 60/40 split and rebuild false floor with hatch to access storage on the side where there isn't a seat (1st saw Mikechell and Donshockley's posts - thanks guys!) Adding a sub under drivers seat and bringing seats up 2" (thanks to Kevinrollin for adding bolt length and spacer post) - I've been super busy so my friend helped me (plus he's an actual machinist) and made 2" x 2" delrin spacers and got the right bolts Larger A/T tires for clearance and in hopes to not get stuck This leads me to my question regarding the rear shocks - does anyone know the eye to eye length and mounting hardware width and bolt diameter?? It seems the MK1 and MK2 rear shocks are different as MYK has MK1 and MK2 specific rears - is this correct? My coworker made some rears for his MK1 so I have a dyno curve to match and I've searched but can't find any info..I want to make some shocks and don't want to have to pull my shocks and then make some. Thanks for any insight into this and thank you all for your all your various posts and information as it has been invaluable!
  2. 2 points
    Nokay

    New FTC/Van owner

    With this post and the one I posted in brakes/suspension not getting responses I will just post updates to my build here. Feel free to move mods. Raised the front seats with 2” delrin spacers that my friend helped make since he’s significantly better at machining than I am and I’ve been crazy busy, sub under drivers seat, added the 2nd row single seat, A/T tires (215/65/16 Falken - Wildpeaks) and rebuilt the false floor with an access hatch (same friend helped chop the legs and make the adjustable feet). I wanted to reclaim the space under the false floor and it needed to be strong enough to put motos in. We used the stock L bracket that the original floor was bolted to and dropped it down so that the new floor is flush to the rear and also bolts into said L bracket. Using pocket screws I attached a front piece so things don’t go in or out the front of the floor area. I didn’t put it under as there is more than enough support using the extrusion and it gave me a little more space. I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks. Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune. Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads. I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit. I did a few other small things but I’ll stop boring myself. Here’s some pics.
  3. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Differential or transmission

    What are you going to do about the hole? You can simply replace the broken part. The broken part is the transmission. Get a new transmission.
  4. 1 point
    G B L

    Differential or transmission

    That is part of the differential the side gears. The trans is done.
  5. 1 point
    mrtn

    Differential or transmission

    This part is definitely from inside the transmission and it's probably a goner.
  6. 1 point
    mrtn

    Help needed - Shipping from UK to USA

    perhaps ask in the facebook group, there are over ten thousand UK people there, some may be well versed in shipping stuff.
  7. 1 point
    My 2016 TC (XLT, second owner, 107K miles) suddenly stopped shifting today. Luckily, I was at my mailbox at the end of the driveway, so I was able to coast home. When I called the Ford Dealership for a shift cable bushing for a 2016 TC, they told me it wasn't sold separately, and tried to sell me the entire cable for $76USD. Thanks to your post, I called back and got the bushing for the Focus, DG9Z-7K340-A, and the cover for about $6. I don't understand why the TC isn't covered in the recall. I reported it the NHTSA, here is a link if you also want to report your bushing failure. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
  8. 1 point
    ecir51

    MOUNTING WINCH INSIDE TC / HELP

    This and add doors to access the winch with additional storage. Will investigate same since am thinking something similar but haven't pulled my mat up yet since just purchasing van last week. If anything some glove boxes there would be great.
  9. 1 point
    jrm223

    MOUNTING WINCH INSIDE TC / HELP

    You seem to have misread what I wrote. I was talking about the winch being completely below the false floor where it's out of the way & mounted strong to the unibody, with only the cable/line going up through the floor & fairlead. The only thing on top of the false floor would be the roller or Hawse fairlead (generally depending on steel wire or synthetic rope). I would want the winch low - watch some oilfield skid-loading videos on YouTube, they are ALL mounted at & pulling from floor height on the truck or trailer. Even race car trailers have the winch mounted low at/near floor height and the hook-up point is also kept low on the chassis. What you're wanting is just a micro-size recreation of winch trucks that have been in use for many decades, so the precedent and concept is already well-designed and proven. You're trying to pull the cart up into the van, not flip it over from having the winch points way too high; if the cart wheels bind on something and you're pulling high, it could flip before you realize what's going on.
  10. 1 point
    sKiZo

    MOUNTING WINCH INSIDE TC / HELP

    Just out of curiousity, anybody ever cut those welds and lift the panel to peek inside? I've found any boxed in area like that is a magnet for rust and rot. Also, seems to me, if it doesn't provide any structural strength, be a great place to store tools or whatever (gun locker maybe?) if you add some clips or hinges to make it removable.
  11. 1 point
    G B L

    New Connect owner

    Or you could have 2 vans , 2 pickups and several trailers if you can't make up your mind.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks. I really couldn’t understand why Ford was so adamant about this. Of course they don’t want me to install in the first place. They don’t want anyone to do anything to the vehicle. Typical I guess. I’ve had good life out of batteries on my motorhome, motorcycles, and front end loader keeping them on smart chargers.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks so much for all of the info on the topic!!!! Mine just let go in the driveway. It is about 8 degrees out and I had been driving for about an hr already. I was going into work late to bring my daughter to school. My wife usually brings her. Picked up a coffee on the way back for my wife after drop off and when I got back in the car, I was stuck in park. The shifter would just slide back and forth and would not go into gear. Came super close to calling a tow to bring to the garage and decided to look it up in this great forum instead... Booiom.... there it was. Thanks for the part numbers and pics on how to make it happen. Definitely getting a spare... My glove box is running out of space due to spare parts🤷🏻‍♂️. I’ve got a 2016 transit connect with 96,000 by the way.
  14. 1 point
    Every once in awhile, I still keep my eyes open for this kind of stuff.
  15. 1 point
    Fifty150

    USB & 12v in front center console

    Technology has changed. The 5V 1A & 5V 2.1A are not enough to power modern electronics. I replaced the original unit with a USB 3.0.
  16. 1 point
    I cannot thank you enough for this post. I just had the bushing fail my 2016 XLT, just passed 60k miles. my wife was backing out of our driveway when it failed. Luckily our neighbor is having the driveway worked on and the workers pushed her back up. I ordered 2 of the OEM bushing and cover in case my 2014 Titanium has the bushing fails on my 2014 Titanium.
  17. 1 point
    This just had this happen to me sitting at a gas station 50 miles from home. The bushing held together long enough to get home after I found the linkage and popped it back on. To reiterate OriginalJud's point, it is located right under the airbox hose on the driver's side on top of the engine. The design may suck but at least it isn't impossible to get to. That being said, I am glad this happened when I was driving and I can fix it for a couple of bucks. I had my family with me and it could have resulted in several hundred dollars of cost to me if I had to have it towed, had to take a cab home, and have it repaired at the dealer. To be in Reverse when Drive is indicated by the shifter (not the dash) is a safety concern that may lead to an accident resulting in property damage or harm. I do not think the driver is properly warned of this failure even though I think it is detectable. I think the design should have a retainer that prevents the failure in case the bushing comes apart and allows the driver to feel the sloppiness of the linkage as a result. The interlink of Park and key meant I could not take the key out of the ignition.
  18. 1 point
    I stumbled upon this thread and became concerned that I ought to replace this bushing on my 2016 TC. So I went to the Ford dealer and bought the bushing and cover and attempted to replace it. But I can't figure out how to detach the shift cable from the trans. I got my hand on the cable end and pushed and tugged every which way but nothing gives. Is there some secret to detaching the cable? The bushing certainly doesn't appear ready to detach on it's own and leave me stranded. Then I realized the existing bushing is orange, same as the new one I bought ... not black and nasty like the failed one shown in the pictures posted by Kruss77. So maybe when my TC was built they used a newer improved bushing and I can just forget about this issue? Thoughts? BTW ... I am a recent forum member with 2016 TC Titanium purchased three years ago with 5k miles on it, now with 55k mostly trouble free miles.
  19. 1 point
    So I have the same car as you ford transit connect xlt 2015 this happened to me thank gd we figured it out with your post we reinforced it with the new bushing and cover costing $20. We also put a zip tie so it won’t pop out. why is there no recall on this for our transits? I was reversing into my Driveway and all do a sudden put the car in park and it just get going it was stuck in reverse.
  20. 1 point
    Fifty150

    spark plug suggestions

    I looked into my toy bag. I'm hoping that I have the right combination of extensions and spark plug sockets to do the job. That big piece is a deep well spark plug socket, for engines like Transit Connect with deep wells & coil over plug. I've got a couple of different swivel spark plug sockets in different styles. A few extensions, a swivel, and a finger spinner. I've got a couple of spark plug sockets without the swivel, in 3/8" & 1/2" drives. 1/2" in case I need the torque to break it free. Not so crazy. Some people do that. Some people clean the spark plugs also.
  21. 1 point
    OEM plugs are .50 gap. Your new plugs are .52. Rule that out. As I was looking, I see that Autolite plugs are $4, and there is a $3 rebate. I found this online: Low Fuel Pressure– If there isn’t enough fuel getting to the engine, this will cause combustion to be less than optimal. Diagnosing low fuel pressure can be tricky. Typically, if you do have low fuel pressure, the vehicle will act fine when it doesn’t need a lot of fuel. But, it’ll sputter and act like it’s going to die at speed or under heavy acceleration. Here’s some information on how to tell if you have a bad fuel filter. Vacuum leak– If your Focus has a vacuum leak, it can be very difficult for it to get the right air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to misfire and it’ll throw the P0300. Also, since a vacuum leak almost always affects each cylinder the same, you’ll typically get P0300 with it and not any cylinder specific misfire codes. Here’s a great article from Popular Mechanics on how to detect a vacuum leak. It’s easy (and kind of fun) to chase one down. Popular Mechanics: How to find a vacuum leak. EGR Problems– If the EGR system is not able to recycle the engine gasses right, it’ll throw P0300. Ignition Problems– Bad plug wires (if equipped), bad coil packs, and spark plugs can cause misfires to occur. This isn’t higher on the list because typically you’ll get a misfire in one cylinder specifically, and not a P0300 only. If you got a P302 or something similar with the P0300, it may be a good idea to check and see if there is any damage or failure from your ignition components. Here’s how to test a coil pack, how to tell if a spark plug is bad (video), and how to test plug wires (video). Cam or Crank Sensors– This one is very unlikely, but it does happen. If the ECU is not getting the right signal from these sensors, the vehicles timing is not going to sync up and it’ll misfire. Low Compression– If you have a leaking head gasket, bent valve, cracked head, etc.. that would cause compression to not be as high as it should, you’re going to get P0300. You should also feel the vehicle is down on power as well. Most Common P0300 Fixes A lot of the time, P0300 is going to be fixed by something obvious, such as an EGR leak. When it’s not glaringly obvious what is wrong, a tune up is a great place to start.
  22. 1 point
    Fifty150

    spark plug suggestions

    My ex liked to reuse paper towels. Wipe your clean hands, the paper is still clean. You just washed them. Spread it back out by a window. It dries. Reuse it. I have hand towels. Wash and reuse.
  23. 1 point
    If I pull plugs, new plugs go in. Same way I am not draining transmission fluid to send in a few ounces for used oil analysis, pour it through a coffee filter in the funnel, back into the transmission. Same thought process for changing the oil filter with the oil. Bizarre that some people will change the filter, not the oil, and just top off because the bottle of oil claims XX,XXX miles. Or changing the oil, but not changing the filter, because filter advertisement claims XX,XXX miles. Some people drain radiator fluid, then pour it back in through a funnel with a screen. Not just reading it online. I have seen all this in real life.
  24. 1 point
    Hello again, I’ve promised to make a post about Ford Transit Connect blueprints here. So that's it. We at Outlines are focused on vehicle blueprints producing. These blueprints are acceptable for wrap, signwriting, vinyl graphics; for 3D modelling and maybe also for t-shirt design^^. Each template is scalable vector file (PDF, AI etc) with editable separate parts and layers. I hope it could be useful for you, mates. That what I have at the moment: Ford Transit Connect Blueprints and Drawings If you need to request any other versions or vehicles please use Request page on the website. We could produce any blueprint in one or few days. Feel free to ask me any questions. Thank you. Best wishes, Eli Afan
  25. 0 points
    MLB

    Sliding door glass add-on

    Safelite wanted $500+ installed. Bought one to do myself.
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