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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/27/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    REA43

    Aux Fuel Feed for Webasto Gasoline Heater

    I would install a diesel heater instead of gasoline, it is a lot safer. I installed a Chinese knockoff diesel heater in my boat and it works very well and the cost was 1/10 that of a Webasto.
  2. 1 point
    billet_@bellsouth.net

    Simple bed

    Here's mine. I bought this chair that unfolds into a 6" thick full size bed on Amazon. I didn't want a raised platform due to the low roof height so I installed two 12" x 12" x 30" cabinets on both walls for some inside storage. Also insulated all walls and ceiling with 3M Thinsulate and paneled them using Coroplast with trunk lining carpet. Did the floor with vinyl planks.
  3. 1 point
    I "had" been doing the same thing with my Astro, as I am the ONLY Master Tech here. Fortunate for these folks I have seven Master certs in different areas, so that van had to cover them all. This one just won't quite make it room wise, so the wife has let me re-populate the spare room with tools and equipment (she's Puerto Rican, so was against that before - LOL). Max speed on the island is 45 in only a couple of places, so the rack is only affecting my 20.2 MPG average down to 20.0 since putting it together. That whole thing, like you said, cost me less than $60. I now have BF Goodrich Advantage T/A Sport radials, 215-60R-16. Every tire on the main island of 215-65R-16 did not have aggressive "enough" tread. These are not mud and snow like yours (for some reason they say AT2 is not for "severe snow" - and read where someone hated them for that), but are good enough for where I'd have clearance to go. They are Rally racing tires. Mine are 95V, but I've seen they come in 98T. Preferred the 95 in hopes they'd "squish" a little and give me better traction on odd surfaces, but at 35 PSI they're still tall and hard. "Firm", as one of the reviews put it. Now I realize, even at 98H, the Conti's were "cushy". Went from a CAR to a TRUCK - LOL... My hill climb problem solved, they now go up with ease, where I slid down "with ease" (LOL). Tried them in really driving rain there, as we have a tropical storm on one side and a new one forming on the other side of us, so here is the same as any tropical storm, but lasting much longer. LOVE these tires. Not as noisy as yours would be, so a tiny benefit. The slight shift in height has my front bumper no longer scraping the street backing into my driveway, which I can't believe it took such a small change to correct. Have yet to re-program for size, but may not as average driving is 35 mph here, and I don't have to worry about Texas State Troopers! LOL... Ignore my red hub cap stripes... LOL... Very dark roads here at night; blind driveways and drunks. Those stripes are reflective, and from a motorcycle striping kit.
  4. 1 point
    Willygee

    Mgp

    I would make sure plug is in place to minimize any exhaust intrusion.
  5. 1 point
    jrm223

    Mgp

    I've had that rubber plug out for several years (lost it, even) and I've never noticed any signs of water or mud getting in from driving, FWIW.
  6. 1 point
    Been slammed busy so had no time to get on here and see all the great info added... jrm223 I WANT YOUR TIRES! But, so far no joy here. Shortly I am making a run to the main island of Puerto Rico (I live on a small island called Vieques) to go on an over-night adventure (if needed) to find some. Seriously doubt there will be any, but have to look. Being "over seas", we don't get vendors who want to ship things like racks and tires down here! But I NEED tires better than these jokes of Conti's on there now! These things are a serious safety threat for me. Twice now I have slid down what are normal residential hills (paved streets) simply due to the fact there was a puddle with "brown water" in it. Not a mud bog, just dirty water! The last time almost cost me the van! I went through the puddle and started up the hill. Tried to be a little more agressive than a previous attempt (I admit I was trying to "tractor" it up slowly that time). The slight running start did let me get about 30% higher, but then this time when the wheels started to spin, the van went backwards before I had a chance to back off the throttle. I lightly applied brakes to stop but it kept going. More brake pressure and no change. Full brake pressure and no change. This time it was all four wheels not holding, and I was able to get the car behind me to back down in a hurry before we hit and bounced me over the side! The time before, I just could not climb at all after about 50 feet up the incline, so I wasn;t sliding all the way down the hill! The hill is moderately steep. Nothing a regular car can't go up with regular tires. My Suzuki (non-4x4) goes up it all of the time! ANd I have been on much steeper in San Francisco. The tires... with front wheel drive, a "cargo load" in the rear, a hill, and water, and you're in danger! WHAT THE HECK WAS FORD THINKING HERE???? I am used to the concept of "take offs" when you buy a new vehicle, but in this case YOU CAN'T TAKE THEM OFF! There is no other choice for the "recommended" size tire than what comes on the van, thus we're all going after these 215-65r-16 tires. This was clearly "a deal" between Ford and Conti! A joke for us. Wish me luck on the tires... At least I know buying the Promaster City would have been the same issue... same sized tire, front wheel drive, and "choked" fender wells. So, at least I can still be happy with the rest of my little van, and not wish I had bought the Fiat. I finally did put up a rack on top, but had to fabricate my own kit. I live on a small island apart from Puerto Rico, so NONE of the vendors anywhere would ship a rack kit down here. I tried every source I could find over about a week searching. Finally gave up. MY new rack is a simple construction but worked out to be a lot tougher than I was going for. When I carry solar panels, to avoid damage (they like to slide around a lot if stacked), I carry them on the edges, which means they go inside. My Astro is now designated for panel transport and is otherwise empty at this point, when I need to do a warehouse run. It has been modified to one-ton, and can fit 30 panels inside. When I get the panels on this island (from PR) the Transit moves no more than 6 at a time, so I don't need to unload most of my tool boxes, plus the space with the passenger seat folded forward is about all I have to play with at a floor length of about 74 inches. 60 cell panels fit completely inside. 72 cell panels stick out the right door; left door closes fine. I have two vertical columns inside that the panels strap to in order to keep them secured upright. Being here, I travel no more than four miles in any direction, so it does not matter about multiple trips at six at a time. My rack is just two cross bars for my Gorilla ladder. It is one of those convertible A-frame types that unfold and become an extension ladder. Six foot a-frame can become a 26 foot tall single span. The rack is two 5 foot pieces of stainless unistrut (used for electrical conduit) we took from a dump site after tearing down power conduit on a cell tower that was destroyed by Hurricane Maria. Never thought they'd end up in this kind of use. To go along with the trim of the van, I went ahead and painted all but the very tops (where ladder meets their metal) with black paint. As the van in pre-drilled, this made it easy to just stack three pieces of 1" square aluminum tube I had laying around on top of one another to make the corner supports for the rails. There is a single Grade 8 bolt going through the stack, and tightened pretty good. I layered the stack in a pyramid configuration to keep the whole thing from trying to lean forward or back. The compression of the bolt and slight angle the stack sits has made and side to side movement a non-issue. I think at this point I'd do serious damage to the roof pan before anything will be loose or move on the rack. The ladder weighs all of 50 pounds, so I'm nicely over built for what I need. The only other thing that goes up there are the solar panel mounting rails, and they are just aluminum.
  7. 1 point
    DonShockley

    Mgp

    Here's a pix of the rubber seal on the pass through on my 2015 wagon. Obviously I was trying to get the connector but you can see the seal behind it. It's just a thin push in grommet that just pops out if needed. Easy enough to remove and plenty of room to secure some screening over the hole to keep out bugs. Not sure how much road splash you might get from the rear wheel.
  8. 1 point
    billet_@bellsouth.net

    Citro├źn Berlingo

    I don't like it at all!
  9. 1 point
    I ended up sourcing the cameras and monitors from Aliexpress. Starting with the cameras, I chose these swivel-adjustable cameras so I won't have to try and get the 3D-printed camera housing orientation perfect or design some kind of adjustments for camera positioning. As a bonus, this type of camera housing will also be very easy to mount in a matching diameter which will also keep the additive plug design simple which is nice. As for resolution, while a higher resolution like 1080P would be ideal, the AHD camera options are somewhat limited as with the monitors in the size and form factor I think will work best. This camera supposedly has a wide 170 degree viewing angle and feeds a 720P resolution image so that'll have to be good enough. Cab Monitors: Initially I was thinking 7 inch screens, but the size ended up being larger than I wanted. I used cardboard to gauge where the monitors would sit and how obtrusive they would be with the deep dashboard and the 5 inch form factor seemed to strike the best compromise between visibility and obtrusion. Pic taken at my eye-level showing box with same dimensions as 5 inch monitor in location. It'll likely sit up a little higher when mounted, but I think this'll be pretty good for not obstructing in front of the windshield. Here's the 5 inch monitor I chose. It is not great that the screen resolution does not match the 720P-capable cameras, but at 1024 X 600, it's not bad and will probably be just fine. Camper Monitor: I have a bit more room to place this secondary screen as a security measure since the cargo van does not have any windows in the back so I went with a 7 inch monitor here. From the sale page. Since I want to put it on a small swivel arm, this slot arrangement on the back of the monitor looks like it will be a good interface to adapt to. Next steps: design 3D printed plugs. I probably won't finalize plug designs until I have the parts in hand sometime in December. Also, I expect routing the wires, especially through the door jams, to be the most troublesome part of this project. That part might not happen until this next Summer so just an FYI if this thread goes without updates for a long while.
  10. 1 point
    So I've wanted to attempt this modification for years on another car before I got the Connect. It has never made a lick of sense to me to continue to sell new cars with these relatively large and non-aerodynamic mirrors when cheap digital cameras and monitors are readily available and have been for a long, long time. This write-up will document my attempt to rectify this somewhat annoying deficiency. Question: do these modifications violate current NHTSA vehicle regulations requiring at least one side mirror and subsequent rear distance visibility? Yes. Will that stop me? No. Moving on. My goals for this modification: 1. Improve driving safety by eliminating blind spots 2. Improve vehicle aerodynamics and reduce accompanying wind noise 3. Improve exterior aesthetics 4. Gain visibility for security purposes in cargo/living area with 3rd monitor and secondary camera activation with VGA selector switch as well as a separate power switch. Shoutout to jrm223 for selling his extra pair of manual side mirrors so I could make this attempt. Let's begin: Disassembly took a bit of finagling as you can see by the assortment of tools, with one down though I can walk us through the next. Step 1: Carefully remove foam. Try and use both hands or supplement with plastic wedge to reduce bending the foam when lifting it around plastic clips and mounting holes. Cast aluminum core exposed with foam removed. Small torx screws can be removed at a later step as removing them now will not aid disassembly process yet. Step 2: Pop out the mirror directly away from assembly/mirror holder. Note: can use wedges to aid process (not shown). Next, unscrew torx screw in middle of mirror holder assembly shown. Step 3: Three tabs around mirror holder ring assembly hold it in place. Take flat-bladed screw driver and press down 2 of the tabs to remove mirror ring assembly (will fall away after 2 are depressed). Step 4: Unscrew 3 torx screws and remove small center assembly, Step 5: Remove rear cover by working wedge or flat bladed screw driver around perimeter and pulling the rear cover away from the assembly. Note: aesthetic damage to these parts doesn't matter. . Step 6: Push on tab pictured and simultaneously pull cover assembly to the right (oriented as pictured). Forward cover assembly removed. Now the tricky part. The hole with 4 indentations affixes the structurally rigid plastic rotable assembly to the cast aluminum mirror core trapping a steel spring buried between them. It's possible that a special tool that interfaces with 4 indents which may allow you to push down, rotate, and unlock the retaining indent ring. In any case, I didn't have anything on hand that would work so I went the destructive route.. Step 7: Destruction. I used a hand saw to saw all the full length of the retaining tube along each of the 4 indents/tabs. Result. Needed a little bit more massaging with a hammer and flat blade to fully separate the retaining tube halves. Step 8: Pry the hell out of the plastic pieces until they fully break away. Now the rigid rotable plastic assembly and spring can be lifted away from the mirror assembly base. Step 9: Remove small base cover by pushing on tab shown and pulling cover forward/away. Step 10: Remove aluminum mirror core by unscrewing 3 torx screws if you haven't already done this step. Aluminum core can be pulled out now. These are the parts I've kept for this project. Since the modifications/additions will be extremely light by comparison, most of the aluminum structure is no longer necessary excepting the base with mounting threads. Later on, I will truncate the aluminum assemblies with an angle grinder & cutoff disk which will make room for the 3D-printed inserts that will house the cameras. Next Step: ordering cameras and monitors.
  11. 1 point
    Received - well packed too, thanks! Went ahead and completed the disassembly today. I'll start the write-up thread in the Glass, Lenses, Lights..etc. section.
  12. 1 point
    nice upgrades. the always on rear view camera is my favorite addition. does your monitor have 2 channels? if so you can add a second camera to cover the right side blind spot.
  13. 1 point
    Made a new antenna Installed LED DRL's and machined my company logo to replace the Ford emblem
  14. 1 point
    Gideon

    Dunnage rack as sleeping platform?

    http://www.camper-van-fun.com/mini-camper.html Great site for camper ideas. Its european but has some north american content too.
  15. 1 point
    jdub3 Yes,I believe so.(no label but measurements seem to match)
  16. 1 point
    G B L

    How do I turn off traction control?

    If it is a Gen 2 use the steering wheel switch to go into the menu and shut it off , you will have to do this every time you start the car. I shut mine off all the time. It is not so easy on the Gen 1, I think you have to pull the ABS fuse.
  17. 1 point
    connectvanplans

    Mgp

    Also, welcome to the forum :). The Connect makes for a great camper platform.
  18. 1 point
    connectvanplans

    Mgp

    There's a small hole on right rear area, aft of the wheel well, that I know of in the cargo version at least which you could possibly enlarge if you wanted to create an inlet underneath the vehicle. I use that hole for the sink drain though. Besides adding a secondary vent on the roof or adding a window or porthole along the doors or body of the vehicle, you could just use the driver and/or passenger windows with rain guards to mask the opening and keep out rain with the window(s) cracked. This is what I do, and I eventually added a mesh screen that I've taped magnets to along the perimeter which keeps it in place on the passenger side 24/7 to keep out the bugs whenever I crack this window for ventilation.
  19. 1 point
    I've got a replacement piece of mirror glass for the passenger side on a 2015. Mine had a tiny crack that I figured would eventually get bigger so got a replacement ahead of time. Then I ended up trading it in before I ever got around to repacing it. It's just sitting on the shelf taking up space. PM me an address and I'll send it.
  20. 1 point
    Tiny Rick

    vertical screen "Tesla Style"

    I've been looking into his as well and as far as I know do Focus sets NOT fit in Tourneos. That's what the vendor told me. Another thing I was thinking is fit a double facia in it with an Android tablet behind it hard wired but I've not worked out what to do with the original radio. Since you'll need that for the bluetooth connection. Maybe re-run the cables to the glove box and put the radio there.
  21. 1 point
    mrtn

    Maintenance Question

    Mercon LV turns dark right away. It's normal for that fluid. Also, the coolant is good for 6+ years. Today's longlife coolants are really durable.
  22. 1 point
    Double Nickels

    Maintenance Question

    @10,000 miles?
  23. 1 point
    G B L

    Maintenance Question

    If you want to really clean the Trans you need to exchange the fluid 3 times and that will get all the fluid. I have done lots of towing with mine and the cooler on the trans holds the fluid temp fine.
  24. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Pig in a cooler

    I'm not sold on those pellets. I prefer real wood over lump charcoal. I prefer real wood over pellets.
  25. 1 point
    cynar

    turn off or shorten duration lights are on

    You can check the history of your vehicle at http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicle/softwareUpgrades.do -> Summary -> History (registration as an independent operator is mandatory - and free). I see log entries in my vehicle 12-10-17 10:36 xxxxxx G1582102 de DE Finished Ford VCM II Persisted Framework 12-10-17 09:34 xxxxxx G1582102 de DE Starting Ford VCM II Persisted Framework This perfectly matches up with when I had the vehicle serviced. This enables you to at least cross-check the claim that anything happened at all. Unfortunately, I am unable to reliably interpret the information in the "Changes and Upgrades" at the above-mentioned URL. I can only speculate that Ford internally tracks the version information per vehicle (VIN) and thus only displays a link to "Software Updates" only if there are in fact updates to the software. For my vehicle, no updates to the BCM are flagged, but instead I see updates available for other modules, e.g. Software Updates - Audio Front Control Module (ACM) Module Programming This application will update the Audio Control Module software to the latest level. Prior to commencing programming it is important that the vehicle battery is connected to a suitable battery support unit. 20170320-G1820905-6 Perhaps, for your vehicle, this lists an update to the BCM being (still) available? This would at least provide hope that with an updated BCM the dark mode setting could be applied.
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