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Thank ya Sir! I found a PAM at the local wrecker for $150 but oddly enough, this issue has not reoccurred since it left me stranded last time. The last time it happened I reset the PAM w FORScan so I’m thinking maybe it just needed to be rebooted, I dunno but it hasn’t happened in a few weeks and this van logs at least 150 mi/day in the same conditions that triggered the first incident.

If I DC the PAM, I get an orange info warning but aside from warning, can operates normally. Agreed, it’s weird there’s no DTCs and that’s why I’m inclined to think it’s a failing PAM.

It is strange that there are no DTCs. What happens if you disconnect the PAM? It may be pulling the network down. You may be able to disable the PAM in Forscan if the disconnected module causes too many problems. I have a 2016 but don't have a PAM so I'm just guessing.

Saw this interesting article in Yahoo Finance this week. Titled "Minivan sales surge 21% in 2025 as millennial dads lead demand for cars offering the 'best bang for your buck'" Honda, Toyota, Kia and Chrysler are leading the pack. Figures that Ford missed this opportunity sheit canning the Transit Connect. Reactive rather than proactive and predicting the market and learning from the European Market. Anyone that owns a minivan understands the utility can't be beat. The heck with the optics that it's a soccer mom vehicle with no swagger. Ford had enough time to find a permanent solution to avoid tariffs (chicken tax). We'll see what their next move will be. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/minivan-sales-surge-21-in-2025-as-millennial-dads-lead-demand-for-cars-offering-the-best-bang-for-your-buck-143022892.html?err=1

lol, tinman taking shots at the community having this issue on 2012 and from researching it is common -sensors dirty < try spraying/cleaning locking mechanisms w wd40 -wiring issues < try using a multimeter to determine which is bad or acting up -replace mechanisms < salvage yard probably best price (test if fail return), eBay more $, but no guarantees -bypass sensor at wiring harness < see wiring guide & online videos (below is one) this might even be better: fix each lock mechanism by replacing internal motor < link to post here on forum

Greetings! Happy to be a part of this forum. I can see the importance of a Transit Connect community. I built out my 2013 xlt as a camper van last winter and hope it lasts for many fulfilling nomadic years.

This is speculative since I don't know if the Maverick Van has been formally confirmed but just wondering will this forum be inclusive of the Maverick Van or is that too separate from the Transit Connect models? Related question -- will Ford Europe continue selling the VW Transit Connect once the Maverick Van is introduced? https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/maverick-van-prototype-shown-to-ford-dealers-for-2025.53201/ https://fordauthority.com/2025/08/ford-maverick-based-van-still-happening-production-set-for-2028/

Amazing. This form factor is all the rage in Europe. Maverick size would be pretty much perfect as it's a bit bigger than the old Connect and not as big as the Transit Custom (which I ordered)

I ran the wires behind the plastic panels on the passenger side. I used the AJB because I has the pins to add circuits.

I considered buying a scan/code reader tool, might still get one later. Instead I ordered a small display device (click for link) that claims it can detect the TPMS sensors and just display the tire pressure and temperature. I'll try to remember to post an update if I can get the thing to work.

My 2021 Connect is ready for new shoes. I love that the original Continentals 215/55 R16 still have some tread life after 73K miles. The van is noisy, and I think the noise comes mostly from the road. I’m wondering if there are tires that are quieter, and long-lasting? I suppose if I replace with the same tires I’d only have to buy 3 while using the original spare as the fourth tire. Regardless, it’s been a few years since previous threads on tire recommendations, so I wanted to ask if anybody has recommendations. Anybody?

Mine is closing in on 170000 . Make sure to keep the transmission fluid changed. The biggest issue I will have is the vehicle rusting due to life on a Vermont roads. The transit will do fine when properly equipped with suitable tires . If you find one with posi-traction so much the better. The 3.7 no turbo is adequate power. the biggest drawback with this engine is the timing chain driven water pump. It is very expensive to replace {1200-2500$}, sometime in 120000-160000 range. If neglected it will ruin the engine, The 3.5 Eco boost has a belt driven pump which is better but the High stress turbo charger setup has its own set of expensive issues. If you are looking keep that in mind. The bigger the box the more fuel it takes to move it around.

Put a ladder rack on your roof and you won't hear the road noise

I added a lot of sound deadening to my '21. I used an app on my phone to quantify noise reduction, but it didn't show a huge improvement. When it rains, that is quieter. Noise from outside the van, it's quieter. I believe most of the noise comes from the road, and even with foam pads and carpet, it's still noisy. The noise is my strongest complaint about the Connect. When traveling, I often have the "belly" filled with gear, and that makes a significant improvement in noise level. I call the footwell of the second row of seats, removed from the cargo versions, the belly. Stock, the cargo version, at least mine, have openings between that hidden space, the belly, and the drivers compartment. So road noise from the belly is piped into the driving area. I've read the passenger versions are significantly quieter, but have never ridden in one to know.

I know this is late, But i got it fixed. Just wanted to update.. There's a box under the dash on passenger side. It is where the USB cable goes. Not sure the name of this module, But i found that disconnecting it for a few min, must have reset it. I plugged it back in, and haven't had any more issues with it.

I bought a 2011 transit connect and all electric doors locks where not working correctly. Door agar switch and wouldn’t lock. To replace all door latch assembly’s would have been close to $1500. That was unacceptable. The door agar problem I just jumped the two wires together. Van thinks door shut all the time. Turned out the door locks have a tiny motor inside every door latch assembly. The motor was just used up. I replaced the motor in every door at a cost of $7 each. Problem solved. Even the sliding door I fixed. Much harder to get to motor but doable. Bought motors new off eBay. Hope this helps someone out https://www.ebay.com/itm/203176710226?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IUqhQx04TQe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=kZOfkNhuR--&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I just added a heated seat kit to my 2016 TC. Best $40 I ever spent! It took me about 3 hours to install it, but that was partly because I had to feel my way through the seat disassembly. I just ordered another kit for the passenger side and will document the process when I install it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKVYYBLR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, following up with pictures/disassembly steps. Similar "one slider wouldn't power-unlock" problem to OP; installed a junkyard door that also does the same exact thing. Hopefully it's a coincidence, the motors are my problem, and not the computer not spinning it for long enough or something. The lockbox/latch assembly is held into the door with 3x T30 screws by the latch. The door card/trim pops off, you pull out the manual lock toggle on the inside of the door, and the box falls down. Remove the inner and outer door handle cables and undo the trim clips along the wiring. The box looks like this: You need to pry the sides away from the "top" at the top and bottom of my photo to clear the 4 tabs. The 5th tab, on the diagonal, you want to pry up on the "top" to get the tab to start straightening out, then bend it all the way straight and clear the slot. All the guts will be attached to the "top half" of the case as it's laying in this photo, and the other half, which the sides are part of, is a cover you can set aside. Flip it over and you're looking at the gearbox. Take out the 4x T15 screws and pry it open. So the worm gear motor spins the small gear, then the big gear. A tab on the bottom pushes against the silver clockspring to return to center. The tab on the top interfaces with the white lever in the first pic, which eventually actuates the lock. PN on the motor. Top number resolves to a number of listings like OPs. Since all the options I could find ship from China, ETA is 01/19-01/26. I'll follow up with whether the motor fixes my power lock.

If you have a Gen 2 TC, there is a rubber grommet under the carpet pad on the firewall on the drivers side. This post should help: