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Thank ya Sir! I found a PAM at the local wrecker for $150 but oddly enough, this issue has not reoccurred since it left me stranded last time. The last time it happened I reset the PAM w FORScan so I’m thinking maybe it just needed to be rebooted, I dunno but it hasn’t happened in a few weeks and this van logs at least 150 mi/day in the same conditions that triggered the first incident.

If I DC the PAM, I get an orange info warning but aside from warning, can operates normally. Agreed, it’s weird there’s no DTCs and that’s why I’m inclined to think it’s a failing PAM.

It is strange that there are no DTCs. What happens if you disconnect the PAM? It may be pulling the network down. You may be able to disable the PAM in Forscan if the disconnected module causes too many problems. I have a 2016 but don't have a PAM so I'm just guessing.

Saw this interesting article in Yahoo Finance this week. Titled "Minivan sales surge 21% in 2025 as millennial dads lead demand for cars offering the 'best bang for your buck'" Honda, Toyota, Kia and Chrysler are leading the pack. Figures that Ford missed this opportunity sheit canning the Transit Connect. Reactive rather than proactive and predicting the market and learning from the European Market. Anyone that owns a minivan understands the utility can't be beat. The heck with the optics that it's a soccer mom vehicle with no swagger. Ford had enough time to find a permanent solution to avoid tariffs (chicken tax). We'll see what their next move will be. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/minivan-sales-surge-21-in-2025-as-millennial-dads-lead-demand-for-cars-offering-the-best-bang-for-your-buck-143022892.html?err=1

lol, tinman taking shots at the community having this issue on 2012 and from researching it is common -sensors dirty < try spraying/cleaning locking mechanisms w wd40 -wiring issues < try using a multimeter to determine which is bad or acting up -replace mechanisms < salvage yard probably best price (test if fail return), eBay more $, but no guarantees -bypass sensor at wiring harness < see wiring guide & online videos (below is one) this might even be better: fix each lock mechanism by replacing internal motor < link to post here on forum

Greetings! Happy to be a part of this forum. I can see the importance of a Transit Connect community. I built out my 2013 xlt as a camper van last winter and hope it lasts for many fulfilling nomadic years.

This is speculative since I don't know if the Maverick Van has been formally confirmed but just wondering will this forum be inclusive of the Maverick Van or is that too separate from the Transit Connect models? Related question -- will Ford Europe continue selling the VW Transit Connect once the Maverick Van is introduced? https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/maverick-van-prototype-shown-to-ford-dealers-for-2025.53201/ https://fordauthority.com/2025/08/ford-maverick-based-van-still-happening-production-set-for-2028/

Amazing. This form factor is all the rage in Europe. Maverick size would be pretty much perfect as it's a bit bigger than the old Connect and not as big as the Transit Custom (which I ordered)

I ran the wires behind the plastic panels on the passenger side. I used the AJB because I has the pins to add circuits.

I considered buying a scan/code reader tool, might still get one later. Instead I ordered a small display device (click for link) that claims it can detect the TPMS sensors and just display the tire pressure and temperature. I'll try to remember to post an update if I can get the thing to work.

2.5 engine with the 6spd trans, shop stated they can create a custom after market install kit for this …looking for some genuine before & after install comments..share any difficulties & what ended up with..I’d like to see this completed next little while..just looking for info from the ones that either have the design already in hand , or have an installed operating setup in the van , thanks

I know this is late, But i got it fixed. Just wanted to update.. There's a box under the dash on passenger side. It is where the USB cable goes. Not sure the name of this module, But i found that disconnecting it for a few min, must have reset it. I plugged it back in, and haven't had any more issues with it.

I bought a 2011 transit connect and all electric doors locks where not working correctly. Door agar switch and wouldn’t lock. To replace all door latch assembly’s would have been close to $1500. That was unacceptable. The door agar problem I just jumped the two wires together. Van thinks door shut all the time. Turned out the door locks have a tiny motor inside every door latch assembly. The motor was just used up. I replaced the motor in every door at a cost of $7 each. Problem solved. Even the sliding door I fixed. Much harder to get to motor but doable. Bought motors new off eBay. Hope this helps someone out https://www.ebay.com/itm/203176710226?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IUqhQx04TQe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=kZOfkNhuR--&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thinking of getting a small camper trailer for my Transit Connect anybody install a oil and or transmission cooler on there Transit Connect?

There are coolers which can cool engine oil and transmission fluid. With the tube & fin style coolers, I use a special kit for mounting. For anyone who really wants to add a transmission cooler, you will need to splice into the fluid return line between the OEM cooler and the bypass valve. Number 3 on the diagram.

I just added a heated seat kit to my 2016 TC. Best $40 I ever spent! It took me about 3 hours to install it, but that was partly because I had to feel my way through the seat disassembly. I just ordered another kit for the passenger side and will document the process when I install it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKVYYBLR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, following up with pictures/disassembly steps. Similar "one slider wouldn't power-unlock" problem to OP; installed a junkyard door that also does the same exact thing. Hopefully it's a coincidence, the motors are my problem, and not the computer not spinning it for long enough or something. The lockbox/latch assembly is held into the door with 3x T30 screws by the latch. The door card/trim pops off, you pull out the manual lock toggle on the inside of the door, and the box falls down. Remove the inner and outer door handle cables and undo the trim clips along the wiring. The box looks like this: You need to pry the sides away from the "top" at the top and bottom of my photo to clear the 4 tabs. The 5th tab, on the diagonal, you want to pry up on the "top" to get the tab to start straightening out, then bend it all the way straight and clear the slot. All the guts will be attached to the "top half" of the case as it's laying in this photo, and the other half, which the sides are part of, is a cover you can set aside. Flip it over and you're looking at the gearbox. Take out the 4x T15 screws and pry it open. So the worm gear motor spins the small gear, then the big gear. A tab on the bottom pushes against the silver clockspring to return to center. The tab on the top interfaces with the white lever in the first pic, which eventually actuates the lock. PN on the motor. Top number resolves to a number of listings like OPs. Since all the options I could find ship from China, ETA is 01/19-01/26. I'll follow up with whether the motor fixes my power lock.