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Picked up my 2014 wagon last fall. The backup camera quit working about a month ago, showing the "backup camera not available" message. I found that the camera fuse, F29 in the auxiliary panel at the right rear side, was blown. Replacing the fuse resulted in an immediately blown fuse upon powering up the van. This tells us we have a hard short somewhere in that wire. Picked up a copy of the wiring diagrams to see if I could troubleshoot the issue. The power runs from fuse F29 in the right rear, up to the front of the van, crosses over, and then runs down the left side to the Image Processing Module above the left rear wheel well. If your van is like mine, and does not have parking/collision sensors, this is apparently a single continuous run of thin blue wire! This might be one of the longest runs in the van. Finding this short would likely require disassembling much of the interior. I was able to rule out any issues with the wiring between the module/door hinge/camera by unplugging the connectors for these. I would still blow a fuse in all scenarios. Since I could easily see/access the thin blue wire at the fuse panel and module connector, I decided to just create a new power run that goes under the trim panel at the back doors. This has successfully fixed the issue, camera is working again. I'm still using the 5A fuse in the panel, and used a 16ga wire, which is much thicker wire & insulation than the original. I don't think it will get pinched under the trim panel, but we're fused so I'm not worried if it should. Connections at both ends were done with solder and shrink tubing, so this repair should be good for quite some time. Repair pics show the insulating blanket that I've used for sweat soldering copper plumbing. I didn't want to risk melting any trim panels with solder drips or the heat gun.

I know this is late, But i got it fixed. Just wanted to update.. There's a box under the dash on passenger side. It is where the USB cable goes. Not sure the name of this module, But i found that disconnecting it for a few min, must have reset it. I plugged it back in, and haven't had any more issues with it.

My RallyCross class trophies tell a different story

Saw this interesting article in Yahoo Finance this week. Titled "Minivan sales surge 21% in 2025 as millennial dads lead demand for cars offering the 'best bang for your buck'" Honda, Toyota, Kia and Chrysler are leading the pack. Figures that Ford missed this opportunity sheit canning the Transit Connect. Reactive rather than proactive and predicting the market and learning from the European Market. Anyone that owns a minivan understands the utility can't be beat. The heck with the optics that it's a soccer mom vehicle with no swagger. Ford had enough time to find a permanent solution to avoid tariffs (chicken tax). We'll see what their next move will be. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/minivan-sales-surge-21-in-2025-as-millennial-dads-lead-demand-for-cars-offering-the-best-bang-for-your-buck-143022892.html?err=1

lol, tinman taking shots at the community having this issue on 2012 and from researching it is common -sensors dirty < try spraying/cleaning locking mechanisms w wd40 -wiring issues < try using a multimeter to determine which is bad or acting up -replace mechanisms < salvage yard probably best price (test if fail return), eBay more $, but no guarantees -bypass sensor at wiring harness < see wiring guide & online videos (below is one) this might even be better: fix each lock mechanism by replacing internal motor < link to post here on forum

Greetings! Happy to be a part of this forum. I can see the importance of a Transit Connect community. I built out my 2013 xlt as a camper van last winter and hope it lasts for many fulfilling nomadic years.

This is speculative since I don't know if the Maverick Van has been formally confirmed but just wondering will this forum be inclusive of the Maverick Van or is that too separate from the Transit Connect models? Related question -- will Ford Europe continue selling the VW Transit Connect once the Maverick Van is introduced? https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/maverick-van-prototype-shown-to-ford-dealers-for-2025.53201/ https://fordauthority.com/2025/08/ford-maverick-based-van-still-happening-production-set-for-2028/

Amazing. This form factor is all the rage in Europe. Maverick size would be pretty much perfect as it's a bit bigger than the old Connect and not as big as the Transit Custom (which I ordered)

I ran the wires behind the plastic panels on the passenger side. I used the AJB because I has the pins to add circuits.

I considered buying a scan/code reader tool, might still get one later. Instead I ordered a small display device (click for link) that claims it can detect the TPMS sensors and just display the tire pressure and temperature. I'll try to remember to post an update if I can get the thing to work.

My 2021 Connect is ready for new shoes. I love that the original Continentals 215/55 R16 still have some tread life after 73K miles. The van is noisy, and I think the noise comes mostly from the road. I’m wondering if there are tires that are quieter, and long-lasting? I suppose if I replace with the same tires I’d only have to buy 3 while using the original spare as the fourth tire. Regardless, it’s been a few years since previous threads on tire recommendations, so I wanted to ask if anybody has recommendations. Anybody?

Mine is closing in on 170000 . Make sure to keep the transmission fluid changed. The biggest issue I will have is the vehicle rusting due to life on a Vermont roads. The transit will do fine when properly equipped with suitable tires . If you find one with posi-traction so much the better. The 3.7 no turbo is adequate power. the biggest drawback with this engine is the timing chain driven water pump. It is very expensive to replace {1200-2500$}, sometime in 120000-160000 range. If neglected it will ruin the engine, The 3.5 Eco boost has a belt driven pump which is better but the High stress turbo charger setup has its own set of expensive issues. If you are looking keep that in mind. The bigger the box the more fuel it takes to move it around.

Put a ladder rack on your roof and you won't hear the road noise

I added a lot of sound deadening to my '21. I used an app on my phone to quantify noise reduction, but it didn't show a huge improvement. When it rains, that is quieter. Noise from outside the van, it's quieter. I believe most of the noise comes from the road, and even with foam pads and carpet, it's still noisy. The noise is my strongest complaint about the Connect. When traveling, I often have the "belly" filled with gear, and that makes a significant improvement in noise level. I call the footwell of the second row of seats, removed from the cargo versions, the belly. Stock, the cargo version, at least mine, have openings between that hidden space, the belly, and the drivers compartment. So road noise from the belly is piped into the driving area. I've read the passenger versions are significantly quieter, but have never ridden in one to know.

I checked my TC and the SW switch PIDs are in the FCDIM. Here is a screenshot of the right switches when I am pressing the Vol Down button

I have attached drawings showing the clockspring connections. The lights for the right side buttons are powered from a cable that is connected to the left side buttons. Look at C260 in the diagram and confirm you have this separate cable. The radio (ACM) buttons are shown in the diagrams. The signals go from the buttons to the FCDIM module, then get sent on the network to the ACM. You may not have the FCDIM. Use Forscan to see if the PIDs for the ACM buttons read the status change when the buttons are pressed. The buttons are always illuminated. fcdim.pdf sws light1.pdf ACM switches.pdf cruise control.pdf st whl harness.pdf

Never mind. I found the problem. It was unbelievably simple. So simple, I’m embarrassed to say what it was. Doing a quick search turned up all kinds of things that could be the issue, but in the end it turned out to be the horn fuse was blown. I didn’t know the interior lights and the horn were connected to each other. I rarely use my horn, so when the lights went out, I didn’t think to check the horn fuse. Why would I? Well, thanks anyway. I’ll post again when something else breaks and I’m too impatient to dig a little before asking an unnecessary question. T

Hey folks. Im hoping I can get some good knowledge and ideas here. I have a 2010 1st gen FTC cargo van that has served me well in the film industry for the last 10 years. I was thinking of selling it and getting a 2nd gen passenger van, but I'd have to go into debt to do that (if I'm going to go into debt, it''looks be for another motorcycle, a story for another time and forum). So I'm, keeping it. It runs great and I put a new tranny in it about 40k miles ago. What I'm looking for now are some second row seats. FTC seats who great but if there are other Ford seats that fit the mounting locations in the FTC, I'd be open to that as well.

I’m almost done but for the last electrical work. I’m now working nearly full time so my van work needs to fit into much less free time. I’ve installed the roof vent and the solar panels and I’m working on the battery tray for the 100Ah LiFePO4 group 24 battery. The solar controller and a couple for cut off switches are installed but not wired as well as a fuse box, a switch panel and the wiring between them. I’m happy everything seems to fit on such a small roof too.

Without any replies I was on my own. This went well as I found a non-rusted subframe on eBay for $360 shipped. My indie mechanic and I replaced it along with the lower A arms and new sway bar struts. It took 3 hours and we indexed it to the previous rusted one. Now I’ve ordered two new front tires and when they are installed I’ll need to get the toe allignment done. With the parts and labor it came to $900. Not cheap but a needed repair that went well and will let my van live on for many years. I’m just ready to do the 65K oil and filter change.

UPDATE: I reread @AdanApost a few times. He calls these fasteners a "BINDING BOLT". Internet also calls them "BINDING POST & SCREW" and "BINDING BARRELS & SCREW". The tee nut description from the other post threw me off a bit. Below are some screen grabs from Lowes and McMaster as an example. What's interesting is in the reviews of the Lowes option, someone used a pair of the fasteners to fix the visor in their Honda. @AdanA also mentions the size range of the bolt: 3/4" to start, ending at 5/8" when cinched. This gives me more info to source the hardware. Will report back.

That's what I am thinking.

Hi folks, In the course of a hardwired dashcam installation on my cargo XL, I needed to find a fuse that was ignition-switched in the passenger compartment fuse box (behind the glove compartment). I tested a few and here's what I chose: - The ignition-switched fuse I tapped was #3, "parking assist control module". - For constant power, I chose #23, "audio unit". Hope this helps someone! I believe it may also apply to 2019, 2020, 2022, and 2023 models at least.

Mirror two-piece adaper OEM style

NO, for the Transit steering wheel. Maybe, but probably not for the Escape. TC, Focus and Escape are built on the same platform but are not exact duplicates of each other. You would need to compare the wiring diagrams to ensure the connectors are the same and the steering wheel controls for the same (cruise control, radio control and menu control).

Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.

Thanks a lot! I read related posts including this one many times, and finally I realized that the seats I bought are for short wheel base models. So be aware my friends, do not get seats like these if your van is a long wheel base model. Now I am gonna take the harder route to make these seats fit no matter what it takes, cutting, welding, etc. Challenges are annoying but also fun. Cheers!

Junkyard replacement will likely have no side airbags or ways to connect to your TC sensors/computer. I love mine, but agree that long drives are not the most comfy. Hope you find the solution.

Trans fluid check and flush. It will take 12 -14 qts to do it .

One of the plaguing issues with the Transit Connect is the transmission. Countless stories of transmissions biting the dust at or around 100k miles. We’ve all read about it. I’ve even been a victim of my van’s trans acting up. This ultimately led to the retirement of the van from racing competition. That was 4 years ago. Van still runs and has 190k miles. Every now & then, with no consistent factors or patterns, transmission will act up and give me troubles. Never once has it left me stranded. But it left me limping to my destination one way or another. Sometimes, if I cycle power on the car, I’m able to get by. It’s a ticking time bomb at this point. One of these days the van won’t recover. It’s one of those scenarios where I can’t front the $3k—$5k for a new transmission. It would be more reasonable to drive it until it dies then pick up some cheap shitbox or finance a used car with a low payment. Until I came across these kits in the attached photos. Apologies if the photos are not in order or they don’t work. I’m posting off my phone for the first time. These kits claim to restore functionality in the transmission. They claim to rectify the shift issues (have those), the ratio codes (have those), and other trans issues (have those). This isn’t a full rebuild kit. This doesn’t include clutch packs or bushings. These kits also claim the transmission does not need to be dropped to perform this repair. It’s basically a bunch of components to rebuild the solenoid/valve body. Which makes sense when I think about what may be causing my sporatic drivability issues. This also may not fully repair my issues. It may need a full rebuild, especially knowing that I used to beat on this van for racing. But a $200 repair kit is a much more approachable option to start. I like to think I’m a 7/10 wrencher. I can do most of anything depending on resources, tools, time, and money. I’ve pulled motors and dropped trans before. But I’ve never messed with anything internal in auto trans. Trying to figure out if this is within my scope of work. if anyone has experience using kits like these for these vans or other applications, I’d love to learn more.

5x108.

For sale custom-made Ford Transit Connect motorcycle hauling platform. This fits the first generation Transit Connect from 2010 to 2013. This was a 3/16" aluminum custom-made platform to haul my race bike to the track. It fits bikes up to 80" long. The front wheel is held in place by a condor wheel chock. The wheel chock has been modified to bridge over the transmission housing in the van. Holes are drilled so that the stock seat hardware can be used to hold down the platform as well as the cargo tie downs in the back. It is very secure. This was actually featured in Motorcyclist magazine in 2011. $600 obo (probably can't ship this unless someone wants to arrange all of the logistics). I am in the SF Bay Area and can meet anyone for a local sale. I also have a Ford OEM service manual for the first generation Ford Transit Connect. This is a paper printed manual not a CD or something. $40 I have a set of brand new rear brake shoes never installed. $40 I have all three motor mounts brand new OEM. So if your transit is getting a lot of vibrations it might be time to renew the mounts. $60

I bought a 2011 transit connect and all electric doors locks where not working correctly. Door agar switch and wouldn’t lock. To replace all door latch assembly’s would have been close to $1500. That was unacceptable. The door agar problem I just jumped the two wires together. Van thinks door shut all the time. Turned out the door locks have a tiny motor inside every door latch assembly. The motor was just used up. I replaced the motor in every door at a cost of $7 each. Problem solved. Even the sliding door I fixed. Much harder to get to motor but doable. Bought motors new off eBay. Hope this helps someone out https://www.ebay.com/itm/203176710226?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IUqhQx04TQe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=kZOfkNhuR--&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

You're replying to my question about what year/model. My van is a 2015 Cargo, similar to your 2018. See the link below for a discussion about sound proofing. Also consider adding in a storage hatch in the foot well area if that's not on your mod list. It's great having the extra place to stash things. There are multiple threads discussing this mod besides the one below. Good luck!

I just added a heated seat kit to my 2016 TC. Best $40 I ever spent! It took me about 3 hours to install it, but that was partly because I had to feel my way through the seat disassembly. I just ordered another kit for the passenger side and will document the process when I install it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKVYYBLR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, following up with pictures/disassembly steps. Similar "one slider wouldn't power-unlock" problem to OP; installed a junkyard door that also does the same exact thing. Hopefully it's a coincidence, the motors are my problem, and not the computer not spinning it for long enough or something. The lockbox/latch assembly is held into the door with 3x T30 screws by the latch. The door card/trim pops off, you pull out the manual lock toggle on the inside of the door, and the box falls down. Remove the inner and outer door handle cables and undo the trim clips along the wiring. The box looks like this: You need to pry the sides away from the "top" at the top and bottom of my photo to clear the 4 tabs. The 5th tab, on the diagonal, you want to pry up on the "top" to get the tab to start straightening out, then bend it all the way straight and clear the slot. All the guts will be attached to the "top half" of the case as it's laying in this photo, and the other half, which the sides are part of, is a cover you can set aside. Flip it over and you're looking at the gearbox. Take out the 4x T15 screws and pry it open. So the worm gear motor spins the small gear, then the big gear. A tab on the bottom pushes against the silver clockspring to return to center. The tab on the top interfaces with the white lever in the first pic, which eventually actuates the lock. PN on the motor. Top number resolves to a number of listings like OPs. Since all the options I could find ship from China, ETA is 01/19-01/26. I'll follow up with whether the motor fixes my power lock.

There is a common issue with these Ford CD radios, once they are a few years old. The electronics are similar across Transit Connect, Focus and Fiesta. Behind the button panel/readout (where the CD goes in) is the audio hardware. Inside the unit, the block of the two amplifier transistors (left and right) are fastened to the metal case of the unit via screws. This allows the metal case to act as a necessary heat sink, as they generate heat during operation, and excess temperature will destroy the transistors. There is a thin layer of heat sink compound between the transistors and the metal case, to improve heat transfer. Over time, this dries out, which tends to cause it to be an insulator. This causes overheating and weird noises from the speakers. If you are handy, you can open the dash, remove the unit, open the case, clean off the old compound, add new compound and re-assemble. This compound is common stuff, same as used for computer processor heat sinks. It's inexpensive and you can find a tube at Best Buy, Amazon, etc. You want a thin, even layer for best results. On my 2012 Focus, I was not able figure this out before the thumpy noises became extremely loud, constant and the transistors were destroyed. On my daughter's 2011 Fiesta, I was able to successfully fix when the problem first started, and she's had no issues since (been good for something like three years). Hopefully I haven't over-explained things, I just wanted to have the full info out there for anyone on the forums going forward. If you try the repair, let us know how it goes.

@paddy - welcome to the forum. Where are you located? I added a storage compartment many years ago. It's a wonderful upgrade and I highly recommend it. There are several threads on this forum that detail this upgrade from multiple forumites. Search and you will find more details. The deck extension is made up of three parts. See pic below for more detail. The base is a bracket bolted to the floor, two or four bolts, can't remember. The other two pieces are decking that can be removed individually. Only about 26 bolts, not that bad. Lastly and most import, not sure where you are located but this deck extension configuration is only for US based sales. Our friends to the north in Canada have indicated that their vans have this extension welded in place. I'm assuming that holds true for all sales outside the US, included Europe. The reason is because Ford wanted to skirt the Chicken Tax on imports to the US and needed to quickly be able to convert a wagon config for 2nd row seating to a cargo model. It wouldn't make sense building the van in the factory this way otherwise. Best of luck!

Check for misfires using a scan tool. You may have an ignition problem that can be solved with plugs and/or coil packs.

Depends on your climate you're planning to protect for, but if you're going to camp in high temperature climates there's definitely a case to be made for minimal/lower R-value insulation over too much/higher R-value. Not to mention not wanting to encroach too much on the limited living space. Basically, it's easier to warm up with a heater in a cooler climate than it is to cool down the inside air, but more importantly, all of the metal surfaces, which after a hot day which can hinder getting to sleep. I'm not really convinced that stuffing insulation in-between channels really does all that much due to the heat transfer from conduction of the various metal structures that typically extend beyond the stuffed areas.That said, I've found it important to, at the very least, cover what metal surfaces you can with carpeting, especially near the areas where you are sleeping (think radiating cold metal at night). I went with a combination of 3M Thinsulate of varying thicknesses for different areas, cheap expanded foam I could cut up and use in some areas too that you'd get for quick flooring in the garage or whatever. I also used a reflectix equivalent when I could maintain an air gap or insulation barrier to help retain radiant heat from the propane heater. Also came across a different insulation product that looked interesting after my build which looks easy to use with self-adhering properties that might be worth checking out if you can source it: http://www.armacell.us/products/aparmaflexsaaparmaflexfssa-duct/

If you have a Gen 2 TC, there is a rubber grommet under the carpet pad on the firewall on the drivers side. This post should help:

2017 Focus is a 55mm offset. 2010 TC is 53mm offset. Center bore is 63.4 for both. Eh ... close enuf, eh.

I just installed a factory hitch yesterday, the plastic bumper comes off easy. Remove the screws that you already did then start pulling the bumper off from the front near the wheels, all the clips will pop off. Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

Thanks BONE. For sound proofing, I used two layers per the mfg recommendations. For the ceiling and doors (sliders and rear), I used Kilmat 50mil butyl sheets (one 50sft ft box) as a lightweight option. The Noico 80mil butyl sheet material was my first choice but after feeling how heavy the sheets are, I switched to the Kilmat 50, which are much lighter than the Noico 80. I used the Noico 80mil (one 36sq ft box) for the cargo area flooring and also the rear upper side panels. The second layer for all surfaces was Noico 150mil liner sold in rolls, which provides a combination of sound proofing and insulation (two 36sq ft boxes). It's now in 170mil rolls. Buy the Noico roller and expect to spend a lot of time doing the install. The ceiling work is tiring working above your head. As I said above, I'm not sure the sound proofing on the flooring areas is very effective. After I removed the rubber cargo mat I fitted a 5/8" sheet of ext grade plywood. Since the bed of the cargo area has numerous ridges and pockets, I separated the foam liner from the rubber mat and used the foam as a liner under the plywood and is good for leveling. That offered very good sound proofing from road noise. The sound proofing on the ceiling, doors and rear side panels is very helpful. The only noticeable noise I pick up now is from the slider panels that I painted. I need to work on that. Another poster added a thin layer of liner used for wood flooring installs to the panel and that seemed to work out nicely.

The scrapyard I purchased the parts from was far enough away that it was cheaper to pay them to pull the parts and ship them to me than for me to drive out and pull the parts myself. I don't know the actual part numbers; I just called the scrapyard and told them what I wanted: both the 60 and 40 parts of the seat (some scrapyards will sell them separate), including the metal anchors that go behind them on the floor; the right and left seat belts that go with the seats (the center belt is built into the 60 part of the seat); and the plastic steps that go between the seats and the doors, which are shaped differently than the ones that go with the false floor. Based on how easy it was to install everything (just bolted right in), I suspect it was pretty easy to pull the parts. I'm guessing the crux of removing them was pulling the paneling off the walls to get at the seat belts or ripping up the floor to get at the anchors behind the seats. After that, it's just a matter of having the right size socket wrench. Speaking of which, the bolts that came with the seat belt pillar loops were T40 torx - same as the bolts in the false floor I had to remove to install the seat (see Mike Chell's post for details).

Here's the post I did on the fluid change it should make every thing very Clear

Just don't end up with your van sounding like an anemic Fast & Furious Honda. And if you put stickers all over, I will slap you. Stickers do not increase horsepower.