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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Regarding FORD Safety Recall 18S20 – Shift Cable Bushing Replacement affecting 2013-2014 Ford Escape, & 2013-2016 Ford Fusion, this failure mode also appears on certain models of the Ford Transit Connect. In my case, I have a 2015 XLT that experienced this failure. The original factory-original bushing is white. The replacement bushing outlined in the recall below is orange. This is a standard Ford part used on "small" chassis Ford vehicles and is common amongst vehicles using this type of transmission shift linkage. The Ford part number for the REPLACEMENT bushing is: DG9Z-7K340-A and can be found at most ANY ford dealership. I paid $5.10USD for it, and ended-up buying two just to have the 2nd one around in case this is actually a recurring problem (or in case I dropped the first one down in the engine bay accidentally during installation!). BACKGROUND: Please note that when I searched for a recall SPECIFICALLY covering this particular failure mode on the Ford Transit Connect I could not find any references to one anywhere. However, a very smart parts guy at my local Ford dealership in Lake Orion, Michigan knew of the problem on the Focus and Escape and had a small box right on his counter full of these replacement bushings. This told me that it's a failure common problem (despite not being specifically referenced to the Transit connect). I suspect that the original plastic bushing was molded from a material not capable of withstanding the constant pressures of the daily shifting cycle. As such, it would seem that if Ford went to all the trouble if initiating a recall action on a number of vehicles with this problem, they wouldn't simply have released the exact same "replacement" bushing, but would have molded it from a more durable material in order to prevent a recurrence. This has been my experience with OEM safety recalls as an auto industry engineer since the OEM is legally responsible for demonstrating to NHTSA that their planned repair solution resolves the safety concern prior to deploying that solution into the field. As such, it is unlikely that NHTSA would have approved an OEM-proposed solution that utilized a bushing the same as the one that originally failed from the factory (common sense?). Incidentally, when replacement parts are produced in a different color, that is usually an indication that they are a different material so that technicians don't erroneously install the wrong replacement part when effecting the repair. Visual cues are important in repair circumstances and used broadly in the auto industry so that quick visual reference can be made when assessing the completion of a safety repair. Here is a link to some of the detail of the recall. REPLACEMENT/INSTALLATION: I knew as soon as I saw the replacement bushing that it was an exact replacement, and as you can see from the photos below it is. To complete the repair, I first snapped the replacement bushing onto the transmission shift lever, then pressed the shift cable onto it. As luck would have it, that was the opposite of the replacement instructions I later found online for the Focus and Escape. regardless, it snapped right in and securely retained the shift cable once installed. The repair took me about 5 minutes and was a bit of a tight squeeze when attempting to get my hands past other 'obstacles' in that area of the engine bay. it was a little challenging holding onto and orienting the replacement bushing when attempting to push my hands past the intake snorkel and fuse box! But, again, it only took 5 minutes total to complete the repair. I hope you find this information helpful. Ken Here are a few photos of the actual linkage and bushing:
  2. 3 points
    SkiZo This is how I deal with barn doors and a tarp attached to roof rack. Modified from another members design,can't remember who.Windguy maybe?? Standard conduit fittings.For wider tarp ,I have 2 pieces of foam pipe insulation with a slit that slide on to the top of the door.
  3. 3 points

    Passengers seats or Cargo????

    Anything? Ho ho ho! Another option might be a simple DIY job with PlastiDip. Hit YouTube for some outstanding examples of work done using that. It'll stay where you put it, but once you're done, peel it right off.
  4. 2 points

    How’d y’all

  5. 2 points
    I have the 14 Connect out of warranty do you think this would still be covered?? What Nazi Moron would program any vehicle to make the head lights and tail lights come on when you open any of the doors!! Seriously??
  6. 2 points

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Sorry for the poor resolution photos. Screen snapped them from a video. I’m seriously happy. One few minor change will be the front lip. When it went into the shop, it was aggressive but not clean. It’s now clean but not aggressive. I have a fix for this and it will get back to the style I need. But enjoy these pics for the update. Floor lighting is the same interior green. Yes that’s a tv for tailgating. New headliner. Car show detail rack. 99% of where I need it to be. Front lip fix then done!
  7. 2 points

    Hello From NJ! New 2019 XLT wagon here!

    Gimp is free.
  8. 2 points
    Don Ridley

    Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery

    The BMS did not work for an AGM battery. It holds the state of charge (SOC) at 80% and only applies 12.2-12.7V to maintain the state. This is too low for an AGM that needs to be around 12.8-12.9V. I disabled BMS using Forscan and selected a different battery type: T7 IF 75ah 650CCA. Now the charging system increased the SOC from 80% to over 90%. At 90% the charge voltage dropped to 14.7V. This is the recommended float voltage by Odyssey for the AGM. Now the battery is holding 12.8-12.9V . It looks like I found the proper setting.
  9. 2 points


    If you do go the warranty route,I would not mention your wet saltwater gear as I'm sure they would use that as an excuse to deny coverage. Wet gear inside a warm closed up van probably creates a "salty" humidity. My family owns a house less than 1/4 mi from the ocean and anything that can rust eventually does,even indoors. Your rust spots are identical to the rust we get on the edges of appliances where paint is thinest.
  10. 2 points

    MK2 Horn Location?

    Jesus, how often do you use the horn, especially for respect?
  11. 2 points
    Moral of that story - go with smaller windows? <G> Vintage Technologies is about 100 mile round trip from here, so I stopped by their shop so they could have a peek at what I had to work with, then went with their recommendations. They also marked the panels to show where to put them for the guy who did the install. Side windows are 21x14 (VT #WD07) , and rear doors are 16x14 (VT #WD03). You also have to match the trim rings to the body - TC used "0" thickness rings designed for thin panels like mine. Anyway - I figured most anything would be better than no windows at all, but was pleasantly surprised by how much visibility improved, both side and back, especially after gutting the cargo wall. I've also got a backup camera, but prefer to actually see what's behind me when driving. The smaller rear windows are a good fit for the back doors I think. PS - careful with sliders - you'll want to make sure the drain holes are pointing either down or back, or you could get some water inside. Mine are right and tight ... No complaints here, which is kind of a bummer as I really like to complain. ;-}
  12. 2 points
    Beta Don

    TPMS question

    What's NOT wrong is . . . . if you check your tires once a month, or twice a month or once a week, at least you will know exactly what your pressures are . . . . that day - That's much better than most of the driving public, so you're slightly ahead of the game But, with some tires now costing upwards of $200 per corner it would be very nice to know when you've picked up a nail that's now causing a slow leak . . . . before you've driven far enough on the low tire to destroy it's structure. *If* you discover that low tire during one of your weekly/monthly tire pressure checks, of course you immediately air it up and go looking for someone to patch the leak. *If* they dismount the tire from the wheel to do a proper repair from the inside, a quick inspection will tell them if you've already destroyed the tire or not . . . . but many places will just offer you the quick $15 tire plug repair, air it up and send you on your way. When the tire comes apart without any warning a month or so later, *maybe* you'll be able to keep it right side up and on the road and all you'll need is a tow back to the tire shop and a new tire The other downside is, very few of us actually religiously keep to our own schedule of monthly/weekly tire pressure checks, even though we know how important they are, so our odds of catching the slow leak before it ruins a $200 tire are even slimmer than they might appear What's really *nice* it to get behind the wheel, flick a switch on the steering wheel and see an actual readout of the pressure in all 4 tires before we even start the car. Instead of a 'couple minutes of easy work' once a month, it's 5 seconds of no work at all every time you start the car. There's nothing safer than that and the cost is less than replacing one tire. If your car's system isn't that elaborate, at least knowing all 4 tires have enough air in them to keep the warning light from coming on is the next best thing - I still do my manual checks about once a month to replace the pound or two that usually leaks away every month . . . . but that low tire light NOT flashing on the dash is also VERY reassuring, at least it is to me Don
  13. 2 points


    Yes, load rating IS important. BUT you can always reduce the weight of all the 'junk' that ends up accumulating in our cars. Even standard (factory installed) tires can be destroyed by overloading the car. My 7-seat TC has never yet had a load equal to 7 people in it.
  14. 2 points

    2010 XLT Slammed

    I actually did Morimoto Gatling switchbacks in the lamps.
  15. 2 points

    Transit Connect Temp Sensor Failure

    About a week ago my 2015 TC started struggling to start. It would crank a few seconds before actually starting. It seemed that each day it got a little worse. I also noticed that my fuel economy took a dump during that time as well. Additionally, when it would crank prior to starting I noticed the strong smell of unburned fuel in the garage. That's never a good sign. Yesterday, it cranked for about 15 seconds (a long time for any fuel injected vehicle to crank and not fire up) before it finally started. Once started, it didn't immediately respond to throttle input and it seemed to be searching for the correct engine RPM. After a minute it settled down and appeared ok to drive (throttle response returned). It was then that I drove it directly to my local repair shop who theorized that it was the engine temp sensor. Upon completion of their diagnostics, they found that my engine temp sensor was reading 117 degrees below zero. The implication is that it was telling the computer to dump more fuel into the engine to compensate for the extremely cold temperatures it was sensing. Obviously, the sensor was bad because it was clearly NOT 117 below zero outside. As such, one hour and $143.00 later it was fixed. (I felt $143.00 is a bit high for a repair of this type, but I needed to get back on the road ASAP and wasn't gonna squabble over the $50.00 I felt I should have saved!) It may be worth noting that the temp sensor is mounted in the head and doesn’t measure coolant temperature, but simply the temperature of the cylinder head itself. This is unusual in my experience, and explains why the dash temp gauge was already in the 'normal' range at only a quarter mile from my house each day (coolant simply doesn't heat up that fast -but cylinder heads do). Additionally, I suspect the throttle response got better when I started it earlier because -as the cylinder head heated up (the sensor is mounted in the cylinder head right between plug 2 & 3) the sensor started reading the combustion heat in the head and allowed more throttle input once the motor warmed up. It runs like normal now, and my otherwise great fuel economy has returned. The Ford part number for this temp sensor is: 8S4Z-6G004-A and can be found at most ANY ford dealership. They run about $53.00USD. I hope that some find this information helpful. Ken
  16. 2 points

    TPMS question

    Not sure if you're just wanting the TPMS re-set procedure? This is the procedure I use on my 2018 TC... TPMS sensor reset procedure: 1- Inflate all tires to spec. 2- Ignition switch to OFF then press and release the brake pedal. 3- Turn ignition switch from OFF to RUN 3 times, ending in the RUN position within 10 seconds. 4- Press and release the brake pedal. 5- Ignition switch back to OFF. 6- Ignition switch from OFF to RUN 3 times, ending in the RUN position. within 10 seconds. 7- The horn should sound letting you know the vehicle has entered into TPMS relearn mode. Place the top of the TPMS triggering tool against the sidewall of the driver’s side front tire in the location of the valve stem. Press the button, wait until the horn sounds. 8- Once the horn sounds, move on to the passenger side front tire and repeat the process. Each tire should only take 30 seconds or less. 10) After the passenger side front tire has been learned, continue on to the passenger side rear tire and finishing with the driver’s side rear tire. 11) You may now turn the ignition to OFF. If the horn does not sound, the sensors were learned successfully. If the horn sounds twice, then the process must be repeated because there was a malfunction.
  17. 2 points
    G B L

    2019 LWB rear springs

    I used 800# of tools in mine , dropped it the required 2 "s !
  18. 2 points

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Funny you say that. I heard it start up. Annnnnd. Well it’s loud. Especially on a cold start.....sounds like it’s cammed. Here are a few new pictures sent to me from the shop.shows the camera underneath the wing, and the dual exhaust well. That is a real functional carbon fiber wing as well
  19. 2 points
    Unfortunately, I don't know anything other than how mine failed, which was immediate and without warning (ti was never sloppy or felt unusual in any way). BACKGROUND: I was pulling into the parking lot at the gym, and while attempting to park, the shifter went into "Park" with substantially less effort than normal (which immediately drew my attention) and the car wouldn't stop rolling forward (because it wasn't in "Park" and was in-fact still in "Drive"). Also, the 'highlight' circle that appears around the gear you're in on the dash display disappeared altogether and didn't register any gear. I shut off the car and popped the hood and started nosing around for something obvious about the shift linkage. Sure enough, the cable had popped completely off the lever on the top of the transmission and was fully disengaged. Fortunately, once you squeeze your hand down past some of the other obstacles in the way the transmission shift lever can be easily shifted into "Park" by hand (thus, allowing me to now get the key out of the ignition). I then slipped the cable linkage back onto the stud sticking up from on the shift lever (that it's supposed to attach to) and was able to drive the next segment of my trip -now onto the dealership. Of course, I had to repeat the whole process again each time I shifted into gear. Suspecting (hoping?) that this was CERTAINLY part of a recognized safety recall on my now 4-year-old van, I was surprised that it wasn't. Fortunately for me (as mentioned in my first post), the Ford parts counter guy was familiar with this failure mode on other Ford vehicles and get me the correct part right away. Fixed in less than five minutes and on my way for under $10.00! I feel like I got lucky! Ken
  20. 2 points

    Passengers seats or Cargo????

    +1 on the wrap. If you get a fairly new one, the wrap actually protects the paint. So when it's resale time, it looks better. And you can have anything you want on it.
  21. 2 points
    G B L

    2010 XLT Slammed

    It has nothing to do with the money or the added value!!
  22. 2 points

    2010 XLT Slammed

    I thought the Brits were crazy modding their Connects.
  23. 2 points

    2010 XLT Slammed

    If anyone is interested in knowing what is done with this, well.....here is the list. 2010 Ford Transit XLT – “Slamsit” Build Sheet Performance: 1. Custom FSWerks cold air intake with Cool-Flo green filter 2. Custom FSWerks cat-less header wrapped with blue heat wrap 3. Custom dual exit FSWerks street exhaust with dual rolled polished 4” tips 4. Custom HPTuners PCM flash for 93 octane including pop tune 5. Massive Speed System under drive water pump light pulley system 6. Custom adapted Euro-spec Focus ST-225 big brake kit 7. Alcon 320mm big brake kit front rotors with Mintex performance brake pads 8. Custom stainless steel brake lines Suspension: 1. Euro-spec MYC GAZ front adjustable coil-overs with FSWerks camber adjustment 2. Flipped rear axle with GAZ shortened adjustable shocks and adjustable leaf spring shackles 3. AirLift 1000 rear axle helper airbags with onboard air compressor 4. Adjustable rear sway bar links Exterior Lighting: 1. Custom retrofit headlamps with Morimoto Gatling LED DRL, sequential LED turn signal, Bi-Xenon projector with gatling shroud. 2. Custom retrofit lower 4” dual function LED fog lamps (Fog & DRL) 3. Custom fit LED dual function smoked front signal indicators 4. Custom fit LED single function smoked rear marker indicators 5. OPT7 Aura underbody LED lighting 6. Euro-spec tail lamps with converted harness to tie into US spec wiring. All bulbs are LED with CANBUS resistors and brake lamp has flash mode operational. 7. 18” x 8” Black centers with polished stepped lips BBS RS rep wheels 8. Stretched 215/35ZR-18 Sumitomo HTR Z III XL on all four corners 9. Black anodized tuner spike valve stems 10. FSWerks engine cover Exterior Styling: 1. Front bumper has custom fitted lower apron with matching custom fitted corner splitters 2. Euro-spec license plate holder with GB license plate dubbed “SLAMSIT” 3. Custom adapted BMW M3 side skirts with rear winglets 4. UK Spec shortly electric and heated dual function side mirrors 5. Vent shade auto vent visors 6. Custom fitted 3” EZ-Lip mounted to rear bumper with dual cutout for exhaust 7. Rear bumper canards with custom brackets to mount to body 8. 57” real carbon fiber adjustable wing with low profile custom body mounts 9. 3M carbon fiber DiNoc roof wrap 10. 3M carbon fiber DiNoc hood wrap 11. Custom integrated Euro-spec Focus RS hood vents with custom drip tray 12. 3M gloss black faux side and rear windows 13. LED license plate lights 14. Carbon fiber rear license plate trim 15. Rear view camera 16. Professional satin Balloon White dip paint job done by H20Wraps Interior Styling: 1. Euro spec carpeted dash mat 2. Custom molded fiberglass a-pillars with 4” Pioneer speakers wrapped with grey suede 3. Upper cargo bin wired with OPT7 Auro Pro LED lighting 4. Dash cam mirror and digital screen with reverse camera functional 5. Custom wrapped steering wheel with carbon fiber accents 6. Custom column mounted dual gauge pod with Innovate Motorsports A/F wideband gauge and Oil Pressure / Temp display 7. Pioneer Avic double din screen with wireless phone mirroring to head unit and TV mounted in cargo area 8. Pioneer 5.25” speakers in door cards 9. Custom adapted Ford Fusion shifter with functional OD button 10. Custom molded AirLift Performance PSI gauge, momentary fill and purge mounted in lower center console 11. Pro-Clip cell phone mount with magnetic super charge phone case holder 12. Custom mounted Euro spec arm rest 13. Brand new great headliner 14. Custom floor mats with rally step plate 15. Custom Ford ST stainless dead pedal with rubber isolators 16. Custom Ford ST stainless brake and accelerator pedals with rubber isolators 17. OPT7 Auro Pro LED foot well LED lighting 18. Dual 8” Pioneer dual voice coil 2 OHM shallow mount subwoofers in ported box behind seats 19. Sliding doors with custom carpeted wall liners 20. Inner quarter panels fitted with Master Rack wall panels 21. Rear doors with custom carpeted wall liners 22. Pioneer 6” x 9” mounted in rear doors 23. Pioneer 6” x 9” mounted in upper left and right cargo roof line 24. Custom fitted to interior floor lined Universal Bed Rug 25. Rear door entry lined with grip tape 26. Driver side rear quarter panel cargo area built in carpeted panel with mounted Pioneer 5 channel amp, Wagan Slimline 1500 watt power inverter and Samsung 32” LED TV with swing out TV mount 27. OPT7 Auro Pro LED backlighting behind driver side wall mount panel 28. Passenger side rear quarter panel cargo area built in carpeted panel with Adams Polishes display rack for car show detailing necessities 29. OPT7 Auro Pro LED backlighting behind passenger side wall mount panel 30. Viper remote start and keyless entry I'm thinking custom roll cage with Braum racing seats, along with 5 point harness. after that I honestly don't know what else I could do with the little box. Any ideas?
  24. 2 points

    Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?

    Go with the class 3. You don't want a class 2, only to have to buy all new accessories, since you already have what you need for a 2" receiver.
  25. 2 points
    Actually, it's a bit more complicated than that. The front side of the battery box is also a high power fused distribution point and you'll have to cut some cable ties so you can fold that forward far enough to get the old battery out and the new one in. Getting the larger AGM in there isn't what I would call a simple task - I've changed batteries in dozens of cars over the years and this one would rank up there as the most difficult exchange I can ever recall doing . . . . and I'll BET you'll agree after you get yours replaced As I said in my post at the beginning of this thread, if you buy a battery from a place that offers free installation, *by all means* take them up on it! - They'll probably think twice before they offer to do another TC Don