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Thank ya Sir! I found a PAM at the local wrecker for $150 but oddly enough, this issue has not reoccurred since it left me stranded last time. The last time it happened I reset the PAM w FORScan so I’m thinking maybe it just needed to be rebooted, I dunno but it hasn’t happened in a few weeks and this van logs at least 150 mi/day in the same conditions that triggered the first incident.

If I DC the PAM, I get an orange info warning but aside from warning, can operates normally. Agreed, it’s weird there’s no DTCs and that’s why I’m inclined to think it’s a failing PAM.

It is strange that there are no DTCs. What happens if you disconnect the PAM? It may be pulling the network down. You may be able to disable the PAM in Forscan if the disconnected module causes too many problems. I have a 2016 but don't have a PAM so I'm just guessing.

Saw this interesting article in Yahoo Finance this week. Titled "Minivan sales surge 21% in 2025 as millennial dads lead demand for cars offering the 'best bang for your buck'" Honda, Toyota, Kia and Chrysler are leading the pack. Figures that Ford missed this opportunity sheit canning the Transit Connect. Reactive rather than proactive and predicting the market and learning from the European Market. Anyone that owns a minivan understands the utility can't be beat. The heck with the optics that it's a soccer mom vehicle with no swagger. Ford had enough time to find a permanent solution to avoid tariffs (chicken tax). We'll see what their next move will be. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/minivan-sales-surge-21-in-2025-as-millennial-dads-lead-demand-for-cars-offering-the-best-bang-for-your-buck-143022892.html?err=1

lol, tinman taking shots at the community having this issue on 2012 and from researching it is common -sensors dirty < try spraying/cleaning locking mechanisms w wd40 -wiring issues < try using a multimeter to determine which is bad or acting up -replace mechanisms < salvage yard probably best price (test if fail return), eBay more $, but no guarantees -bypass sensor at wiring harness < see wiring guide & online videos (below is one) this might even be better: fix each lock mechanism by replacing internal motor < link to post here on forum

Greetings! Happy to be a part of this forum. I can see the importance of a Transit Connect community. I built out my 2013 xlt as a camper van last winter and hope it lasts for many fulfilling nomadic years.

This is speculative since I don't know if the Maverick Van has been formally confirmed but just wondering will this forum be inclusive of the Maverick Van or is that too separate from the Transit Connect models? Related question -- will Ford Europe continue selling the VW Transit Connect once the Maverick Van is introduced? https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/maverick-van-prototype-shown-to-ford-dealers-for-2025.53201/ https://fordauthority.com/2025/08/ford-maverick-based-van-still-happening-production-set-for-2028/

Amazing. This form factor is all the rage in Europe. Maverick size would be pretty much perfect as it's a bit bigger than the old Connect and not as big as the Transit Custom (which I ordered)

I ran the wires behind the plastic panels on the passenger side. I used the AJB because I has the pins to add circuits.

I considered buying a scan/code reader tool, might still get one later. Instead I ordered a small display device (click for link) that claims it can detect the TPMS sensors and just display the tire pressure and temperature. I'll try to remember to post an update if I can get the thing to work.

My 2021 Connect is ready for new shoes. I love that the original Continentals 215/55 R16 still have some tread life after 73K miles. The van is noisy, and I think the noise comes mostly from the road. I’m wondering if there are tires that are quieter, and long-lasting? I suppose if I replace with the same tires I’d only have to buy 3 while using the original spare as the fourth tire. Regardless, it’s been a few years since previous threads on tire recommendations, so I wanted to ask if anybody has recommendations. Anybody?

Mine is closing in on 170000 . Make sure to keep the transmission fluid changed. The biggest issue I will have is the vehicle rusting due to life on a Vermont roads. The transit will do fine when properly equipped with suitable tires . If you find one with posi-traction so much the better. The 3.7 no turbo is adequate power. the biggest drawback with this engine is the timing chain driven water pump. It is very expensive to replace {1200-2500$}, sometime in 120000-160000 range. If neglected it will ruin the engine, The 3.5 Eco boost has a belt driven pump which is better but the High stress turbo charger setup has its own set of expensive issues. If you are looking keep that in mind. The bigger the box the more fuel it takes to move it around.

Put a ladder rack on your roof and you won't hear the road noise

I added a lot of sound deadening to my '21. I used an app on my phone to quantify noise reduction, but it didn't show a huge improvement. When it rains, that is quieter. Noise from outside the van, it's quieter. I believe most of the noise comes from the road, and even with foam pads and carpet, it's still noisy. The noise is my strongest complaint about the Connect. When traveling, I often have the "belly" filled with gear, and that makes a significant improvement in noise level. I call the footwell of the second row of seats, removed from the cargo versions, the belly. Stock, the cargo version, at least mine, have openings between that hidden space, the belly, and the drivers compartment. So road noise from the belly is piped into the driving area. I've read the passenger versions are significantly quieter, but have never ridden in one to know.

I checked my TC and the SW switch PIDs are in the FCDIM. Here is a screenshot of the right switches when I am pressing the Vol Down button

I have attached drawings showing the clockspring connections. The lights for the right side buttons are powered from a cable that is connected to the left side buttons. Look at C260 in the diagram and confirm you have this separate cable. The radio (ACM) buttons are shown in the diagrams. The signals go from the buttons to the FCDIM module, then get sent on the network to the ACM. You may not have the FCDIM. Use Forscan to see if the PIDs for the ACM buttons read the status change when the buttons are pressed. The buttons are always illuminated. fcdim.pdf sws light1.pdf ACM switches.pdf cruise control.pdf st whl harness.pdf

Never mind. I found the problem. It was unbelievably simple. So simple, I’m embarrassed to say what it was. Doing a quick search turned up all kinds of things that could be the issue, but in the end it turned out to be the horn fuse was blown. I didn’t know the interior lights and the horn were connected to each other. I rarely use my horn, so when the lights went out, I didn’t think to check the horn fuse. Why would I? Well, thanks anyway. I’ll post again when something else breaks and I’m too impatient to dig a little before asking an unnecessary question. T

Hey folks. Im hoping I can get some good knowledge and ideas here. I have a 2010 1st gen FTC cargo van that has served me well in the film industry for the last 10 years. I was thinking of selling it and getting a 2nd gen passenger van, but I'd have to go into debt to do that (if I'm going to go into debt, it''looks be for another motorcycle, a story for another time and forum). So I'm, keeping it. It runs great and I put a new tranny in it about 40k miles ago. What I'm looking for now are some second row seats. FTC seats who great but if there are other Ford seats that fit the mounting locations in the FTC, I'd be open to that as well.

I’m almost done but for the last electrical work. I’m now working nearly full time so my van work needs to fit into much less free time. I’ve installed the roof vent and the solar panels and I’m working on the battery tray for the 100Ah LiFePO4 group 24 battery. The solar controller and a couple for cut off switches are installed but not wired as well as a fuse box, a switch panel and the wiring between them. I’m happy everything seems to fit on such a small roof too.

Without any replies I was on my own. This went well as I found a non-rusted subframe on eBay for $360 shipped. My indie mechanic and I replaced it along with the lower A arms and new sway bar struts. It took 3 hours and we indexed it to the previous rusted one. Now I’ve ordered two new front tires and when they are installed I’ll need to get the toe allignment done. With the parts and labor it came to $900. Not cheap but a needed repair that went well and will let my van live on for many years. I’m just ready to do the 65K oil and filter change.

UPDATE: I reread @AdanApost a few times. He calls these fasteners a "BINDING BOLT". Internet also calls them "BINDING POST & SCREW" and "BINDING BARRELS & SCREW". The tee nut description from the other post threw me off a bit. Below are some screen grabs from Lowes and McMaster as an example. What's interesting is in the reviews of the Lowes option, someone used a pair of the fasteners to fix the visor in their Honda. @AdanA also mentions the size range of the bolt: 3/4" to start, ending at 5/8" when cinched. This gives me more info to source the hardware. Will report back.

I know this is late, But i got it fixed. Just wanted to update.. There's a box under the dash on passenger side. It is where the USB cable goes. Not sure the name of this module, But i found that disconnecting it for a few min, must have reset it. I plugged it back in, and haven't had any more issues with it.

I bought a 2011 transit connect and all electric doors locks where not working correctly. Door agar switch and wouldn’t lock. To replace all door latch assembly’s would have been close to $1500. That was unacceptable. The door agar problem I just jumped the two wires together. Van thinks door shut all the time. Turned out the door locks have a tiny motor inside every door latch assembly. The motor was just used up. I replaced the motor in every door at a cost of $7 each. Problem solved. Even the sliding door I fixed. Much harder to get to motor but doable. Bought motors new off eBay. Hope this helps someone out https://www.ebay.com/itm/203176710226?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IUqhQx04TQe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=kZOfkNhuR--&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I just added a heated seat kit to my 2016 TC. Best $40 I ever spent! It took me about 3 hours to install it, but that was partly because I had to feel my way through the seat disassembly. I just ordered another kit for the passenger side and will document the process when I install it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKVYYBLR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, following up with pictures/disassembly steps. Similar "one slider wouldn't power-unlock" problem to OP; installed a junkyard door that also does the same exact thing. Hopefully it's a coincidence, the motors are my problem, and not the computer not spinning it for long enough or something. The lockbox/latch assembly is held into the door with 3x T30 screws by the latch. The door card/trim pops off, you pull out the manual lock toggle on the inside of the door, and the box falls down. Remove the inner and outer door handle cables and undo the trim clips along the wiring. The box looks like this: You need to pry the sides away from the "top" at the top and bottom of my photo to clear the 4 tabs. The 5th tab, on the diagonal, you want to pry up on the "top" to get the tab to start straightening out, then bend it all the way straight and clear the slot. All the guts will be attached to the "top half" of the case as it's laying in this photo, and the other half, which the sides are part of, is a cover you can set aside. Flip it over and you're looking at the gearbox. Take out the 4x T15 screws and pry it open. So the worm gear motor spins the small gear, then the big gear. A tab on the bottom pushes against the silver clockspring to return to center. The tab on the top interfaces with the white lever in the first pic, which eventually actuates the lock. PN on the motor. Top number resolves to a number of listings like OPs. Since all the options I could find ship from China, ETA is 01/19-01/26. I'll follow up with whether the motor fixes my power lock.

There is a common issue with these Ford CD radios, once they are a few years old. The electronics are similar across Transit Connect, Focus and Fiesta. Behind the button panel/readout (where the CD goes in) is the audio hardware. Inside the unit, the block of the two amplifier transistors (left and right) are fastened to the metal case of the unit via screws. This allows the metal case to act as a necessary heat sink, as they generate heat during operation, and excess temperature will destroy the transistors. There is a thin layer of heat sink compound between the transistors and the metal case, to improve heat transfer. Over time, this dries out, which tends to cause it to be an insulator. This causes overheating and weird noises from the speakers. If you are handy, you can open the dash, remove the unit, open the case, clean off the old compound, add new compound and re-assemble. This compound is common stuff, same as used for computer processor heat sinks. It's inexpensive and you can find a tube at Best Buy, Amazon, etc. You want a thin, even layer for best results. On my 2012 Focus, I was not able figure this out before the thumpy noises became extremely loud, constant and the transistors were destroyed. On my daughter's 2011 Fiesta, I was able to successfully fix when the problem first started, and she's had no issues since (been good for something like three years). Hopefully I haven't over-explained things, I just wanted to have the full info out there for anyone on the forums going forward. If you try the repair, let us know how it goes.

If you have a Gen 2 TC, there is a rubber grommet under the carpet pad on the firewall on the drivers side. This post should help: