Double Nickels

The Torque company has a list of compatible devices. Sort of ticks me off that a "free" app suggest that you purchase a $200 device.

Modern transmissions are designed to operate with fluid temperature sensor between 200° - 225°. A lot of confusion from old tables showing 185°. Maybe a 40 year old car from the 80's, where you install an inline thermostat, you want to see 185° on the return line. A lot of those charts online show how ATF degrades as temperature exceeds 185°. Probably true with 50 year old Dex/Merc. I believe that modern transmissions and ATF formulas are better than that.

I can remember pulling wires from behind the ignition, and touching together 2 red wires with the black wire to complete the circuit. Or using a screwdriver as a key.

How do you do that?

I don't think your ambient air temp sensor is the problem.

You probably saw the vent cap. There's no dipstick.

Generic hitch receiver. Iron worker with a welder. Attach to front crash bar. Cut plastic bumper fascia as needed.

The interior panel on the lift gate pops off with trim removal tools. You will see the wiring harness and motor assembly in plain view.

Your President imposed a travel restriction, and raised tariffs on Wakanda. As it appears that a rigged election took place, I will be sure to schedule as political winds change. Can you arrange for aftersale transport and foreign export?

Tanner, how about helping out with some of the troubleshooting? None of us are enthused when there's a problem. You could be our front line guy at the dealership level. You can get technical support. You could get updated service bulletins. Nobody wants you to give up pricing and markup strategy. But if a forum member is having an issue with something, you could ask your techs.

From what I remember, fuel cutoff occurs if the vehicle experiences heavy impact or rollover. Although it's not suppose to, with some older cars, towing raised the car to enough of an angle to cut off the fuel. I would leave it, and engineer shelving around it.

Transit Connect vans are great for people who just don't need a full size van. I thought about removing the 3rd row. But then I started driving with the middle row down. Passengers could ride in the 3rd row, with a lot of space for gear in the middle. I sat back there myself. It was kind of nice to have the cooler in front of me, and be able to drink beer behind the tinted windows. The last row of seats has a power point for charging the phone. And the parents can't see everything you are doing back there.

On a cargo van, without the headliner, you could use basic nuts, bolts, and washers. You could find rubber washers to help seal out water. Silicone works well. From what I remember, the holes under the black plugs are big enough for 1/4" bolts. I would want at least 3/8" bolts. When you start thinking about how much weight may end up on the roof, I may want 1/2" bolts. If you decide to use rivet nuts, you will have to drill those holes out to a larger size. I could be wrong, but 1 or 2 more lengths across the width of the van may be even better. Overall, it's a good job.

It looks like you lost about 2" of ground clearance. I'm guessing that the underbody splash shields were removed. Did you have to take off parts of the plastic bumper fascia?

You are correct. All of those builds looked good until they stopped posting updates. I wonder how much money went into those projects.