Fifty150

Nice car. High 5.

As this is an OBDII adapter which works, it's also on sale.

Since it does so much, we should have a subforum for using ForScan. What kind of hardware are you using? Apple, Mac, PC, laptop, Android tablet, Microsoft phone, Motorola, Samsung, et cetera? Bluetooth, WiFi, physical cable from OBDII to your computer? Which brand or source for your OBDII connection equipment. What did you do with the application? Step by step to help the next guy. Maybe screenshots. Looking forward to Transit Connect specific task performed with ForScan. Or maybe some other app or program which you are using, and care to share the knowledge with the next guy.

According to wheel-size.com, the 2nd generation OEM wheel is 63.4 mm. I see wheels for Ford Focus listed with CBD of 63.3 mm. Will that fit? Or is it just a bit outside? Is the OEM wheel hub centric, like most OEM application? Or lug centric, since OEM lug nuts are 60° conical seat?

I think you will need to relearn the sensors. I don't think you will install them in the original position. Sensor battery life is questionable. Some say 5 years. Some say 100,000 miles. No consistency. Ford says nothing. I don't think Ford has ever promised any kind of service life. They usually last the new car warranty. Then it's a service item. You replace them as needed. No free sensors under warranty. At least I have never heard of free tire sensors. I am still using OEM sensors on my 07 F-150. They still work.

1st, check the harness. Pull the bulb off, and look inside. Is it burnt out? Is there corrosion?

There are many choices of oil weight and brand. The current owners manual calls for 5W-20 and 0W-20 as a cold weather alternative. Brand preference has already been beaten to death. Plenty of forums and discussion threads. We can discuss that if anyone wants to. We can agree that oil, is oil. We can also agree that different manufacturers have proprietary blends and additive packages which make each formulation unique. Where the opinions differ is why there are over 31 "flavors" of oil whenever we walk into a store. And for whatever reason, some people "fall" for something, and develop a loyalty. Some people believe that their oil choice is ideal for almost every application. Multi-level marketing has created a cult like following to a specific brand. On another thread on this forum, several members wrote about being in -30F, and how they are planning on switching to 5W-30. It got me thinking. While I don't live in that climate, I thought about it. Going from 20 weight to 30 weight is a higher viscosity and many people believe that a higher viscosity oil will provide better engine protection. A popular opinion is that 20 weight oil is only specified by the manufacturers because it is suppose to yield more miles per gallon. There is also the belief that today's engines are engineered to different tolerances, 20 weight oil is correct, and that a thicker oil may not properly lubricate as needed. The 5W number & 0W number refer more to start up in cold weather. I recall as a yute, 10W-30 and 10W-40 was the norm, and people even used 20W-50 in old cars. Old car, old engine, burns oil, leaks oil; thicker oil, less rattle. Not exactly scientific. Now that we are out of the dinosaur days, nobody uses 10W oil in small cars anymore. Have any of you guys in cold weather climates considered the 0W grade? 0W-20 as specified in the owners manual. Or even 0W-30 since you plan on using 30 weight in a 5W-30? I saw this old video on youtube, which even though it's old, helps to illustrate the difference in the "w rating" number for cold weather conditions. It would be interesting to hear your choices of what oil you use, and why.

Interesting bends with the exhaust pipe routing.

I'm at 33,000 miles, and I really believe that I could get 50,000 miles. At least another year of driving. But didn't another forum member wear the OEM tires out by 30,000 miles? Driving style and environment have a lot to do with it. You can probably get more miles with good roads.

Tint is 1 of those jobs where a lot of people mess up. It looks and sounds easy. Then you find out why they charge what they charge.

Glad to read that you found the solution. Now we can file this for the next owner. This is 1 of those instances where the cheap stuff doesn't work, and you have to use OEM.

You can try to fabricate an intake. Remove the OEM box, then add a cone filter. OEM air box scoops air from front grille. Intake air temperature is about 10 degrees above ambient at freeway speed. An open cone filter will probably give more hot air, as opposed to a cold air intake. Find a shop to Dyno Tune, and you might get something. I don't think there's anything you can do exhaust wise to make the pipe bigger. You can delete the resonator with a straight pipe. You will gain noise.

A thread on the Torque applications. Feedback, input, tips, advice, opinions........

Just installed LED H11 that came from Amazon.com. Easy plug-n-play installation. Because of extra wiring and LED driver, keeping the dust caps was not an option. Not a big deal, since LED lights run hot and have a fan built in for cooling; you will want to have airflow as opposed to trapping the heat with the dust caps. Initial impression is that road seems brighter, and LED reflects better on signage. It could just be my mind playing tricks on me. With OEM halogen hitting the pavement, already illuminated by yellowish sodium vapor street lights, you can't really tell what your headlights are doing. With LED lighting on the pavement, you can obviously see the white light.

High 5

Goodyear makes the Viva3 only for sale at Walmart. My concern is the load rating being 93H. But let us know how they work out. Inclement weather is right around the corner. They should be fine if you do not carry the GVWR. I would probably spend an extra $25 to have the correct load rating. But that adds another $100 to the out the door cost. I'm looking at those tires that cost around $50. But who knows how reliable or safe those cheap tires are. At 33,000 miles, my OEM tires still look great. I keep them inflated, and rotate them. At this rate, they could last 50,000 miles.

I bought the OBD connector from Amazon. I am not a fan. With Torque Pro, the home screen is unresponsive, the app does not load to work, and then it crashes. With Forscan, it shows that the connector is bad.

After years of trying different lamps on different cars, I have learned a little. Almost every "brand" comes from a handful of factories in Shenzhen, China. That's why most look similar. The factories will produce for different vendors and label the package with different brands. Some of the "brands", are actually the same company, using multiple brand names for market share. Some brands have been around longer, are established, and not "fly by night". Those sellers will be around in case you have a problem. What that usually means is that they will replace your product or refund the purchase so you will not be at a total loss. If you buy something for a lower cost, it probably came from the same factory. If it works, you won't have a problem. The current lamps I am using in my pickup truck and van; the sellers no longer exist under those brand names. They are still working flawlessly. I got lucky. Buying from Amazon, you get the A to Z Guarantee. From eBay, you're not getting that level of product support. So if the listing on Amazon shows a 1 year warranty, and the seller no longer exist, you can still file a claim with Amazon for a refund. Some of the brands which have been around are BeamTech, Yita Motor, JDM AStar, SiriusLED. Not that it means much, but some brands do have their own websites outside of Amazon & eBay, with a product selection guide. Neither Sylvania or Phillips sell LED headlights. https://www.siriusledlights.com/pages/product-result?rq=yr_2016~mk_ford~md_transit-connect~ft_base-model~nm_low-beam-headlight-bulb https://www.beamtechs.com/ https://www.yitamotor.com/pages/product-result?rq=yr_2016~mk_ford~md_transit-connect~px_exterior-lights~kj_titanium-mini-passenger-van-4-door~uc_1-6l-1596cc-97cu-in-l4-gas-dohc-turbocharged

Does it work?

Click where it says follow.

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2015_Ford_Transit_Connect_XL_2.5L_4_Cyl._Mini_Cargo_Van/battery/replace_battery#

The dealership should be able to call Ford. There's a technical support department.

Stickers add horsepower. Fuzzy dice add torque.

There's a thread with the repair procedure.

They got me with the co-branding and cross marketing. Just did an oil change with the "Ford recommends Castrol" and "Castrol recommends Bosch".