Fifty150

Just installed LED H11 that came from Amazon.com. Easy plug-n-play installation. Because of extra wiring and LED driver, keeping the dust caps was not an option. Not a big deal, since LED lights run hot and have a fan built in for cooling; you will want to have airflow as opposed to trapping the heat with the dust caps. Initial impression is that road seems brighter, and LED reflects better on signage. It could just be my mind playing tricks on me. With OEM halogen hitting the pavement, already illuminated by yellowish sodium vapor street lights, you can't really tell what your headlights are doing. With LED lighting on the pavement, you can obviously see the white light.

Nobody likes to do the obvious. Drill a hole. Of course you will use a grommet, and encase the wiring in split loom.

In all my years of doing it wrong, I never looked it up. 3/8" ratchet. Hand tighten. A good seal with a gasket maker, or OEM when available. I've done about a dozen "drop the pan" fluid changes. I never had a leak. I would guess 12 - 14 ft lbs.

My dipstick reads fine. Engine cold. On level surface.

So you have to remove the spacer to make your new battery fit?

Your van's computer will not see, recognize, or process the signals from the upgrades head unit.

Buy some tools. You're not fixing the car with just a scan tool and smart phone.

I don't. I keep the van raised. Run the van and shift through the gears. This allows for fluid to cycle through the gears so that new fluid from the sump is pumped through. My final fill is the factory service specification of 4 liters. On transmissions with a dipstick, the dipstick always has a crosshatch area. Which means that your transmission is fine within the recommended fill. After the final fill, you can take your van for a drive, jack it up again, then achieve the perfect level. But not necessary between drain and fills.

Which model?

Why are you using that brand?

Look online for COP alternative. Denso makes them. Also, look at the connection. The harness plugging into the COP. Check for damage. Inspect the wire harness. Add dielectric grease if it's dry. Your issue could very well be the computer. That repair from Circuit Board Medics appears to be able to fix it.

1.6 liter engine is common enough. Some info is online.

You have no way to reprogram this problem. At least I don't think that you do. It would require rewriting the operation strategy in the van's computer, in relation to the operating temperature parameters. I doubt that is your issue. Your van is reading temp sensors and turning the fan on and off as needed. I doubt if those temperature parameters need to be reprogrammed. It would be interesting to actually view those readings in real time. The FORScan app will allow you to see temp sensor readings and the fan speed. That's a start. When the dashboard message comes on, see which sensor is actually reading a high temperature. Before you even open the hood, you can see if the computer is reading the fan, and if the computer shows that the fan is on. Is coolant temp within 10° of cylinder head temp? It would be a problem if coolant temp was 200° & cylinder head was 250°. Or if coolant and cylinder head were around 200°, and transmission temp over 225°. I want to say that coolant, cylinder, and transmission temp should all be under 225°. Another thing to look for is if the computer shows your fan being on, and you lift the hood to find that it's not actually on. Computer controls the fan, and thinks it's on. Look for a poor connection. Check the actual wiring harness. Reason being that when the dealership replaced the transmission, the mechanic may have left it loose. Completely unplug the harness and look. Are pins damaged? Is it burnt like it has been shorting out? Click it firmly back in place. Not that I don't trust your dealership tech. Have another dealership tech or mechanic physically look at the new transmission. Ask to have all the connections checked. It won't be the first time a tech installed a part, and left something loose or unplugged. Maybe a wire damaged. Broke some connection pins in the harness. Skipped dielectric grease. Or even pinched down a wire. No reason at all for van to show overheating when you start the van. I want to look for a temperature sensor failure. Or have a mechanic test the sensors. Suppose you have the FORScan app on, start van cold in the morning, and cylinder head sensor reading is high.....that sensor is faulty.

Weight of the lights and the bracket are held by the 2 bolts next to the license plate, and the license plate bolts. Weight is forward. Bumper is not rigid. You could fabricate a support from the front of the mount to the plastic bumper, creating a triangle.

Every car forum needs to have a lengthy topic, which goes on forever, and often strays off topic. Can we trust the onboard oil change light? Is the algorithm sophisticated enough to truly know if I'm a regular driver, or if I am a severe duty driver? Who does their own oil change? What do you use? Who is allowing the dealer to do it? Anyone going to a "lube shop" like Oil Can Henry's, Jiffy Lube, Pep Boys, Oil Changers? Who is using only Motorcraft? Anyone like "boutique oil", K&N filters, and fancy magnets? Let's hear it all.

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So with the new transmission, van goes into reverse?

Since the van's computer is reading the temperature as high, the sensors for coolant and cylinder head are probably working. Or maybe not. The cooling system has sensors for coolant temp, cylinder head temp, and transmission temp. The mechanical thermostat is the primary regulator. Assuming that the thermostat opens, hot fluid flows to the radiator. Assuming that the water pump is working, fluid cools and circulates back to the engine. Assuming that the coolant temp and cylinder head sensors are working, the electric fan should turn on as needed. Assuming that transmission temp sensor is working, a series of electronically controlled valves will allow cool radiator fluid to the heat exchanger. The thermostat could be stuck closed. The water pump could be broken. The fan could be broken. The fan relay could be broken. The fan may have blown a fuse. Check the fan connection. A mechanic may have forgotten to reconnect the fan. The car's computer could be failing in monitoring sensors and turning the fan on. Forscan could help with checking the sensors, and the fan. Old school thermometer to check hose temperature. If upper hose has fluid, and is hot, the thermostat opened. Make the dealership fix it. Try a different dealership. Escalate your concerns to Ford corporate. Van should be under warranty. Consult with a lemon law attorney.

Cheap aftermarket cameras are not compatible with OEM system.

No. You did the right thing. Change the plugs before they foul, misfire, get stuck, break off.......same reason why we change oil before it turns to sludge. Did it look dirty?

Aftermarket cameras are really cheap.

This time around, Havoline. Synthetic blend 5W20. It was a sale price. $11.32 per 5 quart jug.

Holiday weekend oil change. Here is a photo of the funnel which fits under the cowling. 5.7 quarts. 32 ounces to a quart. So you need another 22.4 ounces. I use a paint mix bucket. I also add a little oil into the filter which I consider to be 0.4 ounce. In case anyone is curious, the Fumoto valve does stick out. No jacks. No ramps. I used the incline of a driveway. Just enough to get it done.

Very nice. I used the same inexpensive license plate holder to mount a LED light bar.

Look for it, look for it, look for it......... See the CEL? Notice the mileage?