Fifty150

Do the rear wipers work?

It could work. But you still have to consider whether your LED lamp is dimmable. Some lamps are. Some are not.

Over the years, I've bought 194 size lamps from different companies. Some were cheap, and worked fine. Others weren't so great. Years ago, LED could last forever, or fail, without any consistency. If they began to flicker and burn out, you just replaced them. Today, with better technology and build quality, I now expect the LED lamp to actually last. Flickering and burning out is not acceptable. I'm not sure what could be too bright, or not bright enough. You have to decide that for yourself. For my Transit Connect, these are the lamps I have installed. I like them. No flickering. None have burned out. I have tinted windows, and I can see very well. I used these. They were good. No issues. I tried red and white, and finally decided to stay with white.

If the manufacturer is still in business, they would be your best contact. Or try getting in touch with Ford. The current generation of Ford electric vehicles would be nothing like what was built 10 years ago.

https://productdeskapi.cart.bilsteinus.com/media/products/bilstein/B14_B16_Video.mp4#t=1

If you leave the door open, the parking lamps stay on. But they do go off. They don't stay on forever, right? So for those few minutes that the parking lamps stay on, your battery drains? It sounds like you should check your battery to see if it needs to be replaced. Or check your alternator to see if it's putting out enough of a charge. A 2011 is a 10 year old van. Perfectly reasonable to replace wear items with time.

Unless you run your own wire to the battery. Then install your own fuse box. Then you can add simple circuits for aftermarket upgrades.

Interesting. All of my lights, every light on the van, interior and exterior, is LED. No problem with my key fob.

Not Turkey? When did production begin ion Mexico?

Most likely place. The slot is probably empty. If all wiring is installed, then only a fuse is needed. You would be surprised at strange finds when it comes to what is built into the car. I've found live wires with harness plugs, which connected to nothing. As in the factory installs the same wires in every car, and then if the build is for a model which doesn't feature that option, then the preinstalled harness just connects to nothing. No harm. Even though the wire is live, nothing is connected. No load, no draw. Customer won't know since it's behind the dash.

But your owners manual will still tell you which fuse you can use, or a circuit you can tap into. Maybe if you look, the fuse slot is empty, and then all that you would have to do is insert a fuse. Or if there is an empty fuse slot, you can use it. See this post about adding a circuit to your fuse box. Worst case scenario is that you run a wire to the battery. If you do that, add a fuse box to the rear where the auxiliary junction box would have been. Then you can add all sorts of other upgrades.

Kind of hard to do that with an underbody splash shield. You would literally have to drive through about 12" of water. In which case, it would be obvious that the entire lower half of the engine was submerged in a foot of water. Not to mention what other problems you would have if you were in a foot of water. This is a really late reply. But in case anyone else gets a similar symptom, you can clear the adaptive learning table. Then drive the car and let the computer learn to shift to your drive style.

I did the same thing. Then changed them to white LED. I then stayed with white LED. While the red LED set the mood for hotboxing and backseat loving, I found that I could just see better with white.

Replace the OEM light bulb with a LED. It should not be a problem to operate LED lamps on the same circuit, since the LED load is significantly less. But to be safe, check your owners manual to see what size fuse is on that circuit, and figure out what your load is so that you don't have a fire.

You could have used a circuit tester to determine which wires were power and ground, then tapped into the wires.

I looked at that. Not a great idea if somebody wants to fold down the passenger seat. I don't see a reason not to mount it on the driver side. I see those gooseneck extensions in use on fleet vehicles. Some models are strong enough to hold laptop computers in place. I suspect that each brand is a little different, and that some are stronger than others.

I tried a few of those. I just wan't impressed. They wobbled. Scratched into the vent piece. And just didn't feel sturdy and well made. Maybe the ones I bought were junk because I picked a low price model. I didn't like those mounts that stuck into the CD slot either. I tried using the magnetic holders. An even worse idea. The worst I tried was this one. It fit perfectly on the Transit Connect dash. Clips right on. But doesn't stay. A little road vibration, hang a corner, and the phone goes flying. The vent clip has a little spring, which pops out and the clip falls apart. I get that most people don't want to drill into their cars. The most common mount systems us dual tabs, a 17mm ball mount, or AMPS hole pattern. There are options. Obviously, if you screw it into your dashboard, it's a little more stable. I still have a few Garmin GPS units which I actually like using. So the ball mount is something I like to have.

It's the perfect place to smuggle illicit items across checkpoints. If alcohol ever becomes banned again, I'm bootlegging with my van.

It looks like these types of parts typically aren't sold individually, or by the dozen. OEM factories buy in lots for manufacturing. In the old days, if you wanted to buy 1 diode, capacitor, resistor, or whatever small electronic item, you went to Radio Shack. They had every 3 penny part, which they charged you $3 for. How did they ever go broke with a 1000% mark up on everything in the entire store? Hundreds of small items which you would not buy thousands of. You only need 1. They had it. And you paid the price. At any rate, if you want, I found these:

Check your chassis ground.

Replace the hoses, and the hose clamps. No matter what, your van is 9 years old. Hoses and belts are part of regular maintenance. Those hoses probably need to be replaced before they burst under load and cause a bigger problem. I would think that you could idle the van, look under the hood with a flashlight, and see a wet spot or a leak. Radiator fluid is colored, so you won't need a tracer dye. Top it off, then keep an eye on it.

Arkon, Ram Mount, Pro Fit, & Pro Clip are probably better solutions than most of the stuff you buy from Amazon, eBay, gas stations, drug stores, mall kiosks, and cell phone retailers.

very nice....sorry that there's only 1 pair of shoes to share between 2 people.....keep in mind that with uninsulated cargo vans, rain and hail hitting the metal roof is annoying.

For what it's worth, the photos are nothing like real life, real world, through your eyes. Different cameras have different lenses which do different things with light. If you are using professional photography equipment, you could make the photo of the lighting look good or bad.

Just installed LED H11 that came from Amazon.com. Easy plug-n-play installation. Because of extra wiring and LED driver, keeping the dust caps was not an option. Not a big deal, since LED lights run hot and have a fan built in for cooling; you will want to have airflow as opposed to trapping the heat with the dust caps. Initial impression is that road seems brighter, and LED reflects better on signage. It could just be my mind playing tricks on me. With OEM halogen hitting the pavement, already illuminated by yellowish sodium vapor street lights, you can't really tell what your headlights are doing. With LED lighting on the pavement, you can obviously see the white light.