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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    Sofa Bed

    Ursa Minor Vehicles dot com
  2. 2 points
    I removed my factory rails and installed Thule tracks myself. Its lower profile, has a greater load rating, and looks cooler, but deff NOT worth it. My van is the passenger version with rear curtain airbags so between the interior removal, drilling new mounting holes, and assembly, it took a solid 3 days.
  3. 2 points
    I sent a telegram for a diagram to wire in my 8 track player, and they still haven't responded. They lost my business for good.
  4. 2 points

    Eliminating 4.2" screen on a 2015

    My last new vehicle prior to buying my 2016 TC was a 2011 Nissan Frontier. I got a serious reality check when I got the TC home and discovered there was no easy way to even install a Sirius radio Rx! Don't know if it's the same with other brands these days, but now I know that if I buy another Ford I'd better be sure it comes off the lot with everything I want on it cause it's difficult/impossible to add aftermarket products. I'm at an age where I don't want to do this stuff anymore either - which doesn't help. I don't even do my own oil changes now. Didn't want to have to buy and store ramps just to get into the engine compartment. In the 1960's it was a no-brainer to get to almost anything on a vehicle. It's so difficult now that I've pretty much accepted my shade-tree-mechanic days are over. The only thing I've added to my TC is a hitch.
  5. 2 points
    I have had my Yakima box for about 15 yrs and love it.I'm not sure what model as the side decals have disappeared.Aprox dimensions are 90 in long and 15 in high at highest point. We use it for camping,first on a Subaru Forester and now on a 2016 TC LWB.My racks are adjustable and currently set at 36 in I have barn doors so I don't know if liftgate models would be a problem. I can mount it by my self because I have built a storage rack on my garage wall that is head height.It is very awkward to lift off the ground by one person . It is best for lighter soft items,bedding,tarps,duffel bags etc.It is very slippery inside so use care with single items and hard partial loads.I believe there are tie down points inside but have never used them. It opens from either side and the locks work well.Order extra keys.Never had anything get wet in probably 10,000 mi. The only downside is the height .I am 5'8" and have to toss things up and then stand inside to arrange them with one hand. Avoid parking garages and low limbs,I have had a few close calls.Fortunately just scratches
  6. 1 point

    2010 Custom Camperized Connect

    Hello, thought I'd share some photos of my custom camperization for anyone interested/inspired to do the same. It took me a few months to complete, and definitely learnt a lot along the way. Despite being boxy, there are no straight lines to work off of! Pretty much every piece of wood had to be custom measured and cut (often multiple times). Since finishing it, I've been on lots of road trips on the West Coast of Canada and US. The TC handles it all! Feel free to ask any questions about the build or one's about your project.
  7. 1 point

    2010 TC Roof Cargo Box options...

    I've got a 2010 with a Rocketbox on top. Just had to drill the holes for the mounts a little back so it doesn't overhang the windshield. The extra storage is amazing, but it's way up there! I have to open the side door and step up on the doorsill to reach inside of it.
  8. 1 point
    Yakima and Thule do sell tracks that have a universal u-channel design as well as a few other companies. It's a different style than the OEM in that they are flat and flush with the channel of the van. I like that feature so it's flush when racks are not in use. Depends on how you plan to use your racks and how often. See pics in the thread linked below.
  9. 1 point
    Double Nickels

    Trans Temp Gauge on 14+?

    A lot of options via OBDII . Plenty of free and paid apps. Or you can use a Scan Gauge or scan tool. I am using Torque Pro. FORScan is better, but only for Ford. Torque Pro will work on other cars.
  10. 1 point
    Eddy Kilowatt

    Trans Temp Gauge on 14+?

    Easiest with a scanner app like Forscan. There's a parameter in the Body Control Module called Transmission Fluid Temperature (BCM_TFT) that has the name and behavior that one would expect, Forscan makes it easy to pipe to a gauge icon on your phone screen. (There are also a few dozen other transmission-related parameters in the BCM to puzzle over... the ones for actual gear selected and torque converter slip have been pretty interesting to watch.)
  11. 1 point
    Double Nickels

    4,000 Miles

    Of course, the real question is, do you trust the computer algorithm? Some people say that once you add oil from the bottle, even if you're not driving it, the oil oxidizes. In a calendar year, the oil and/or additive pack has degraded. This is why oil labels say 1 year. This is why the computer will signal you in 1 year. Some people believe that the oil they are using will not have that problem. A lot of people feel that certain higher prices motor oils are better and will not degrade. You can send in an oil sample for analysis. I usually buy motor oil based on what I can buy cheap. And I have gone over 1 year between oil changes. The car did not blow up while driving on old oil. But that doesn't mean I did the right thing. I can't measure if the old oil was oxidized, or if any damage was done.
  12. 1 point
    I evaluated the connections between the ground strap and the painted frame ground mount. The lug and the cable make good contact by a cylinder-in-cylinder connection and a crimp. The ground bolt and the frame nut are also a cylinder-in-cylinder connection (slight loss in contact due to threads). Both the cable/lug and bolt are about the same diameter so why is the bolt a bad connection? The problem is the only contact between the lug (and all the power in the cable) and the bolt are on the bottom of the bolt head. I estimated some dimensions and calculated the surface area of electrical contact for each connection. The more contact area, the better the connection. Contact surface area of ground bolt and nut (cylinder-in-cylinder) = 226 mm2 Contact surface area of the bottom of the bolt head = 69 mm2 All the current has to flow through only 69 mm2 of metal to metal contact. If you sand the paint off the frame you will greatly increase the contact area. Contact surface area of sanded connection = 209 mm2 + 69 mm2 = 278 mm2 The sanded connection can carry much more current for a longer time than the painted connection. Sanding this connection increased the contact area by a factor of 3. All these numbers are approximate but shows there are measurable gains to this modification.
  13. 1 point
    Lovely repair
  14. 1 point
    G B L

    Not starting!

    If after the Jump it is worse, check the battery connections something could be loose. The battery is definitely suspect. As a side note . every once and a while mine just decides to kill the battery. New battery , old battery does not matter . No charging issues , No codes, no clues, just random. My defence is a well charged booster pak and several well worn swear words at the ready.
  15. 1 point

    Introducing myself..

    I just joined this forum. Never joined a forum before so I'm trying to learn how to use it. It said, "Welcome, introduce yourself" but I didn't see where to write that, so I hit "create new topic". Anyway, I'm new. Bought my 2019 Transit Connect on May 30, 2019. Converting it into camper van so I can take it to the "Van Build" in Parker, AZ. Then to the RTR (Rubber Tramp Rendezvous) in January 2020. Anyone else going?
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Beta Don

    2014+ bigger, better battery

    Do a Google search for 'Absorbent Glass Mat Battery Transit Connect' and you'll find a link to the discussion here - You can't find a darned thing searching this forum Anyway, it's a Sam's Club Duracell Group 48 AGM battery - $159.99 when we bought them in 2017. Another Google search gives the dimensions as 10.9 X 6.9 X 7.5 inches. Theres a spacer in the battery box to keep the little Ford battery from moving around and you have to remove that to get it to fit. It's taller too and barely fits, height wise. I run an inverter I mounted in our TC to charge 2 Segways and I also use it to run an air compressor for filling tires. It's a great battery and has served me very well. I highly recommend it! Hope this helps you Don
  18. 1 point

    2015 Transit Connect XLT Cargo

    There are certain "magic numbers". When the engine reaches 100 F, the idle drops. This is what you are experiencing within that short time frame immediately after starting the engine. 150 F. Engine management system goes from "open loop" to "closed loop". Car's computer also executes and completes the OBDII monitors, for the drive cycle tests, to clear the P1000 code, so that your car is "emission ready". For some cars, 150 F ATF is also suppose to register the fluid level at the low end of the dipstick. 190 F or sometimes 195 F. Thermostat opens. Radiator fluid now begins flowing through the cooling system. In some cases, simple airflow from the car moving will reduce the coolant temperature. In modern cars, the electric fan will turn on and off at preset temperatures to maintain operating temperatures. In the Transit Connect, the coolant/antifreeze also flows through an oil-to-water heat exchanger to regulate and reduce the ATF temperature. Transit Connect's 6F35 transmission is supposed to be checked for proper fill level between 180 - 200.
  19. 1 point


    I then slapped the mat back down and cut out the rubber around the hatch cutout. Dropped in the hatch, popped in the step trim, and screwed down my cargo tie downs. Finished product, thanks for looking at my creation, feel free to ask about anything I might have left out!
  20. 1 point
    So, I finally gave into the voices in my head and bought a 2018 TC Van LWB XLT. I had been driving a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4wd pickup. But I moved from the Midwest to South Carolina and a black 4WD pickup was not working in a crowed southern city where it gets really hot, rains daily, doesn't snow and has no parking. Hmm, you probably already are nodding your head. So here are my first impressions after about 2 weeks. PROS: - I really like the maneuverability. Although its the LWB, which I've read is not quite as easy to maneuver as the SWB, this is WAY better than a full size pickup. -Talk about room, man this thing is big on the inside. It makes me feel small driving it. I already have a lot of stuff in it and still have room. I think I'm going the like the LWB for that. -Very comfortable to drive. OK, it's not a Cadillac, but it is every bit as comfortable and my old pickup. I really like the telescoping steering. I'm 6ft, and with most vehicles without it, I have to choose between cramped knees or stretched arms. -I like the backup camera, but being over 50 I have to put on my reading glass for tight spots. -I like the cargo doors. I know some like the lift gate, but I have had a few hatchbacks and I wanted to try them. However, I would not get them without the glass. Even with the glass, it takes a while to get used to the reduced visibility. I'm used to it now, so I have decided I do prefer the doors. I like just swinging one open and throwing the stuff in. -I like having a roof and locks. With my pickup, I was always covering up my stuff when it rains (which happens a lot here) and taking it out at night. Now I just lock the doors! -I like the rear sensors. I wasn't looking for them, but they were on it when I bought it. And now I really like them. Already saved me a couple of times, even with the backup camera. CONS: -No passenger side sliding door window. So when I was looking for a TC, I wanted the cargo van with both sliding door windows. The dealer couldn't find one, so I negotiated a lower price on one without them. I now realize that I'm OK without the drivers side, but I really miss the visibility on the passenger side. I park in a lot of angled spaces and invariably a SUV parks next to me. Then I have to do the "creep out of the parking space while some numb skull blows the horn at me" maneuver. Even with a passenger looking for me, it still can be tricky. And while the backup camera gives me a safe start, in the city they come at you way too fast to pickup on the camera. I read in this forum that the panel can be replaced with glass (a big thank you to the poster!), so I felt better about my decision. However, I think I am going try mounting a side view camera. I will post the results after I do. If it doesn't work, I will be replacing the panel. If it does work, I think I'm going to like the added security of the panels. -"Fisher Price" kiddie key. I know some people can't live without remote entry and locking. I get it. But I really don't like having the remote ON the key. Yes I know there is a transponder in there, but it doesn't require a key the size of a tablespoon. I have ordered a remote less transponder key, but I will be giving up the remote entry for the ability to put the key in my pocket. It would have been nice to have a separate remote to take when I have a passenger and a simple key when its just me. MEH (indifferent): -Sync. So I ended up with the Sync system and I like the Bluetooth connectivity for music. But the voice command system is marginal. Some will like it, but I'm not a phone guy so it doesn't do much for me. -Blindspot mirrors. These are the small ones with the convex corner in the upper outsides. So, yes they help. But I think I would have preferred the large mirror with the bottom convex section. I might get the aftermarket add-ons posted about in the forum. But I'm going to drive it a little longer. They are getting better, but even so, they are not great. -Hardboard panels. Yes it is a cargo van, so I get the use of hardboard (Masonite to some). But I will be painting, covering, or replacing them. I am sure they will look really bad when they get stained. -Performance. I have yet to enjoy the benefits of better gas mileage, but it DEFINITELY is not fast. (Hmm, on second thought, it might save me a few tickets!) -The crap I get from my friends. Some get it, some don't. (Happens a lot in my world!) Overall, I am VERY satisfied with my decision. I'm really happy to be part of this forum, since it was a big help in making my decision. I hope this post will help others figure out their purchase
  21. 1 point


    Hi folks, I've been playing with Forscan on my 2018 TC (specifically to disable approach lights). I wrote up a complete tutorial on my website. I'm just learning Forscan so I'm sure I have some small details wrong, but hopefully that will help others.
  22. 1 point

    Oil Change

    One really has to wonder what the heck the thought process was on this one. The only thing I can think is that they must have passed out tubes of glue at engineering meetings.
  23. 1 point
    I've just started to modify my connect, and I've started with just a couple of small things under the hood. 1. Focus RS Air Box: Before anyone goes and points out that the lid dosen't seal to the bottom of the hood, look at the K&N air filters with the open ends, same effect, hot air. Simple fix, drive faster. lol. It is a very noticeable increase in throttle response and overall performance. Probably less than 5hp, but still noticeable. I've also noticed about a 3mpg increase since the installation which includes a K&N Air filter. Price: ~$60.00 Link: http://www.trueblueracingparts.com/16-FORD-FOCUS-RS-AIRBOX_p_555.html The air box comes with an OEM paper air filter, but any 2012+ ford focus air filter will work as they are all the same. Standard, ST, RS, all identical. Pick your poison. 2. Mountune Silicone Induction Hose: The red thing. Didn't really notice any real increase with this, but just by observation alone, this piece will create far less turbulence than the OEM rubber corrugated hose. I say it adds visual horsepower, because we all know, red stuff under the hood means power. lol Price: ~$69.00 Link: https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-High-Flow-Induction-Hose-Focus-ST-p/2363-ih-blk.htm 3. Fiesta ST Engine Cover; It was a direct fit. I hated the original engine cover. So boring. Since it's the identical engine as the FiST anyways, less the tune, might was well wear the proper hat. Price: ~$45.00 Link: https://www.powerstrokeplus.com/oem-parts/ford-engine-cover-c1bz6a949b?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmcTJBRCYirao6oWPyMsBEiQA9hQPbu8PPdPHVm4Xbt085j2FpE4qswgd8lHAapEyIMiWqOUaAifB8P8HAQ 4. Boomba Bypass Valve Adapter for Fiesta ST: Simple and easy install with only three bolts. I didn't even have to remove the wheel to get to it. Now my van goes PSSSHHHHH and everyone that hears it looks so incredibly confused. I love it! I will say, that since the bypass valve is electronically controlled, it does go off a bit too much. It's sensitive enough to blow off in my driveway in the morning at idle when it goes from cold to warm cycle. Turbosmart does make one for the Fiesta ST that will also bolt up, but converts it to vacuum controlled versus electronic. Price: ~$85.00 Link: http://www.boombaracing.com/1-5-1-6-ecoboost-engine-50-50-blow-off-valve-adapter-bov/ From what I've gathered, I can see that it's a Fiesta ST Engine in a Focus engine bay. More parts are on their way, but I won't post until I confirm fitment.
  24. 1 point
    James Stanley

    Big Brake Upgrades

    I've looked into so many part numbers for several different Ford vehicles, and I've come to realize, that the front brakes on the 15+ TC are Focus Brakes, which means any big brake kit for the Focus will work on the TC. Pumaspeed has the Focus RS Brembo brake upgrade kit for only $650, but you need to have an 18" wheel or larger, and if it's an OEM 18", like a stock FOcus ST Wheel, you'll need a 5mm spacer to clear the caliper. I plan on going for the RS brakes in the future, but there are other, more pressing mods to do first.
  25. 1 point
    G B L

    2015 TC xlt LWB inverter installation

    A 1750 watt inverter is 14.5 amps at 120 volts. At 12 volts the inverter needs 145 amps ten ga wire is no where big enough to handel the load. Even with a second battery the Alternator will put out over 80 amps trying to keep up. if you do run a wire from the front battery to the house battery fuse both ends.