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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/14/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Rack, Awning + Window screens

    I haven't posted much here after my initial research phase and final purchase of my van. We're starting to buy accessories and make plans for the build out, so I'm making an effort share my progress, other findings, and purchases with other TC enthusiasts here. I purchased and installed a rack/cross bars system two weeks ago, I went with the Thule system. I'll list the parts below. Side bar: the customer service at e-trailers.com was superb, I would recommend doing business with that company. TH712400 Thule SquareBar Crossbars TH710601 Evo Flush Rail Feet for Thule Crossbars - Flush Side Rails TH186032 Fit Kit for Thule Evo Flush Roof Rack Feet It definitely wasn't the cheapest way to get outfitted with a rack. There are some systems on e-bay that are cheaper, but the convenience and fast shipping was really what I needed at the time. The other accessory that I wanted to share about is the awning I purchased. I found it on Camping World's website, it was the least expensive and simplest system I could find. We're modifying the brackets to install it, because I don't want to drill holes in my new cross bars. Initially, I'm impressed with the quality of the awning for the price. If you are looking for an inexpensive awning option, here's the link to the awning: https://www.campingworld.com/trustmade-6.5'-x-6.5'-car-rooftop-pull-out-awning-shelter-black-118964.html We also purchased, just today, some slide on window netting. We live in a warmer climate in summer, so windows down for sleeping in the van is required but can get buggy. We're testing these slide on window coverings that promote air flow, but keep bugs out. These came on recommendation from a friend who van camps/sleeps a lot. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VPMVD4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I will test everything this weekend camping and report back, and post some pictures too.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    It was a bad high-beam/turnsignal switch/stalk, he already replaced it and is A-OK now, lol.
  4. 2 points

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    I do have 2.3.34 test version. Function is located under IPC module, below is the download link. http://forscan.org/download/FORScanSetup2.3.34.test20200521.exe Important notes: 1. Please note this function can increase mileage, not decrease it. So if you enter wrong number that is bigger than have to be, you will not be able to return it back. So please be very careful. 2. Before run the change, please make sure FORScan show correct *current* mileage (it shows it when asks to enter new mileage).
  5. 1 point
    Anyone finding the mid-row power outlet very unreliable? Wonder if there is an easy fix (like an upgraded inverter feeding the stock outlet) to lengthen how long the outlet actually works before the safety faught (flashing green lights) triggers, even with low wattage items, I only get a few minutes before it stops working.
  6. 1 point
    This was such a pain in the ass, I figured other dabblers might benefit. This was my stock vehicle. 2014 passenger titanium with those rails on top. I want a rack. Remember that weird tool you bought that "makes drills go around corners"? Does it sound like an "extra expense" now Jennie? DOES IT?! Alright, now some would say you need to take the entire interior apart. They're wrong. You only need to take 3/4 of the van apart. The roof rack on the stock rails has five mount points. The one in the back is very easy to remove. This one was designed by Satan himself and exists beside both an airbag pump, airbag curtain, and the access point doesn't fit standard tool fittings. Then again, the roof rack is as intended. Couldn't be happier with the result. Since I couldn't find much info on where to start this project, I decided to just document it myself! Some of the process
  7. 1 point

    Rack, Awning + Window screens

    I've had good luck with Skeeter Beaters for smaller windows that roll down. They have magnets woven into the mesh and you just snap it around the window wherever there's metal to touch. I'll pick up those XXXL ones for the front doors though. Thanks!
  8. 1 point

    2015 TC transmission fluid change

    Just thought I'd add this as I'm replacing the transmission fluid on my newly acquired 2015 Transit Connect with the Ecoboost 1.6L engine and I noticed that it's different than most everything I've seen discussed on this forum. The transmission in my van has the indicator plug on the right side of the axle and uses a 10mm hex plug instead of a bolt. Here's a couple of pictures of what it looks like. So if you have the Ecoboost engine, this might be what your indicator plug looks like.
  9. 1 point
    G B L

    New kid on the block....saying HI

    You know you could get a 2.0 short block for what you already have and see what happened.
  10. 1 point

    New kid on the block....saying HI

    Im sorry, i didnt realize there was a difference....mine is a Transit Connect....by all means, if U hv a link or pics of a Ford Connect, id like to see them and educate myself a bit more. Mine is the LWB Passenger. both rear(3rd row) seats removed already, and shelving replacing them. I May remove the 60% 2nd row seat also....not sure yet. Planning on putting in a Work station w a small vise....for holding and rekeying locks etc.....not to mention power inverter and LED lighting etc. I wanted a Passenger version cuz i didnt want a Tin-can traveling down the road with all the Noises etc that often come from it......Passenger is carpeted and a headliner etc....with Rear Heat/A/C....making my Office a lot more comfy!
  11. 1 point
    Power comes from burning fuel. Simple physics: more power = less mpg's. Only thing I can suggest is keeping tire pressure at or SLIGHTLY(2-3 psi max) above specification. This should help reduce "rolling resistance". Any higher psi will cause rapid tire wearout. Don't know if possible, but some sort of streamlined front cover for your ladders may also help.
  12. 1 point

    New from Texas

    New to the forum, can not believe how hard it was to get past the questions and robot ID tests to verify myself, lmao.. 2015 XLT, 15k miles. Few goodies here and there, spoiler is getting painted as of today. Hoping to find a few answers to small issues I am having and gather ideas for next parts purchase, road trips, builds, etc etc
  13. 1 point
    Unsure of where to start, I replaced the high beam switch / turn signal, since it needed to be done anyway, in order for my high beams would stay on without me holding the switch back the whole time. That was it. My low beams are as bright as they should be now.
  14. 1 point
    Raised roof rail https://www.ebay.com/itm/To-Fit-2014-Ford-Transit-Tourneo-Connect-LWB-Roof-Rails-Black/323578090123?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
  15. 1 point
    I did the mattress too when we first got the Connect. It worked well enough. The main advantage of the platform was being able to store things underneath, which was big when road tripping. It's sized so that plastic tubs slide under. Sure. I'll measure it later today. Off the top of my head, I think it's sized about 40in long x 46 wide for the back frame/top and the fold out section (which I forgot to mention you can store linens inside during the day) makes it end up being about 76-78 inches long. I'm 6'3" and can just sleep comfortably top to bottom (we slide the front seats up a couple of clicks).
  16. 1 point

    A/C motor loud noise fixed

    Ok so after searching for the problem with my A/C Climate control fan noise being loud and sounding like it was going to vibrate out of the dash I found no real info on the subject . A lot of speculation and no real information on this for my 2014. So I decided to take the thing apart myself . So here is what I did, first I removed the access panel under the passenger side dash there are two pins that require you to remove them use a small screwdriver to pull the top portion of the pin out of the plastic piece this will allow easy removal of the bottom access panel. second I emptied the Glovebox and removed the two small plastic slotted pins that hold the hinge do this with the glovebox closed and use a flashlight to easily see what you are doing . once removed open the glove box and tilt on a slight angle to remove it from the opening. you now can see the cage that houses the fan motor . the fan motor is on the driver side of the dash but you don't need to remove it at this time. At first inspection I didn't see any debris in the motor . So I turned on the fan motor which vibrated loudly and shook the entire dash once I turned it off a rubber piece fell to where I could remove it there were two pieces . Photo below Not sure where this came from but I am sure it was part of something internal once removed the fan motor was quiet and acted as it was suppose to on all 4 speeds I removed this from the cage with a pair of tweezers . and reinstalled the glove box and the access panel no new parts needed no further teardown needed I hope this helps someone else with this problem.
  17. 1 point


    Assuming you have a cargo van. In my 2016 LWB, I removed the mat covering the cargo area,exposing the area where the foot well would be for 2nd row seating.(search this site for descriptions) After removing the filler pieces,you will see numerous threaded holes (aprox 5/16 or 3/8 but metric) that would be seat,seatbelt or tie down mounting points for 2nd row seats. There are threaded holes on the B pillars(partition mounting points??) but I would be extremely hesitant to put any stress on an area that could affect door operation Depending on the anticipated load,your bracket would have to incorporate multiple mounting points . The cargo mat provides a lot of noise suppression so I installed a plywood floor over the mat.
  18. 1 point
    I have never noticed that before but now it'll be my burden for sure. Find a way to remove the shiny trim parts and have a friendly sign shop wrap it in matte vinyl.
  19. 1 point

    Wiring Harness Burned Out

    switch to HID, less current draw With more then double the light, bulbs running colder too against what others say, i use them( 55 Watt ) since 16 month after right after purchase, no issues at all, Conversion kits from Kensun, good stuff, be careful with some EBay guys selling trashy kits
  20. 1 point
    Mine works for 15 mins then shuts off. Turn car off and back on works for 15 mins and stops again. I have had it to the dealer 3 times.
  21. 1 point

    2.5 Litre Reliabilty

    I've got a 2016 [xlt?] wagon bought in 2018. Pull a tent-trailer (approx 1200 lbs) in summer. No problems at all EXCEPT with Ford Customer NON-Service !! I would suggest to program the control unit to "Dark Mode" unless already done. Much easier on battery in our cdn climate. You may also want to switch to '60' series tires from original '55' series. Just remember fuel filler is on passenger side and do not open sliding door at fill-up.
  22. 1 point

    No AC after Carwash

    OK, so I am posting this a year later for anyone having an intermittent A/C problem. I drive a 2016 TC XLT and within the past 6 months, (I live in Florida so I use A/C in December), began having a problem where my A/C would suddenly just start to blow warm....a few miles further and it would work normally again. This was totally unpredictable and no amount of fiddling with the controls would would have any effect. After a major internet search, which included this thread, I decided to change out the ambient air temp sensor since It was only $16.00 at NAPA. On my vehicle it was located exactly as shown in Zalienz's post above. The view shown there is from the inside out after the plastic shield has been removed...this puts it on the driver's side in the lower corner of the cowl. I also took this opportunity to replace the push rivets on the underpan which were damaged or missing from oil changes. The fix worked perfectly.
  23. 1 point

    Transmission fluid change

    Here’s a pic and a few notes on my experience on my 2018: When draining, I caught 4 quarts each time, and put 4 back in. The looky-level plug is in fact where indicated, to rearward of the axle. Nothing came out of the level plug hole until I poured some in; I think the level was spot on and what I poured in basically came right out. My vent cap has a nifty if unnecessary hose clamp on it that was biatch to try to pinch while putting back on. Until I figured out the clip-stop deal that keeps it unclamped while installing (as shown in photo). Doh! 10 mm hex for the level plug; 3/8 socket drive with a knuckle and extensions made it easy; had the van on ramps do didn’t take the front wheel off. (Driveway has slight slope and I used blocks under rear wheels to level out)
  24. 1 point
    I am having problem with my built in inverter on my 2019 TC XLT. Only trying to power an Echo Dot. Measured voltage is about 83volts not 110. It turns off after a few min.
  25. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery

    Starting batteries don't make good deep cycle batteries, but the reverse isn't necessarily true. The AGM I installed has 50% more "cold cranking amps" than the stock battery and they wouldn't rate it that way if it wasn't intended to see duty as a starting battery, nor would they be offering a three year free replacement. As a general rule, AGM's handle higher recharge currents much better than flooded batteries do I have a 1994 Miata which came with an AGM battery mounted in the trunk - AGM's are the stock battery in many more cars these days. Anyway, I replaced the OEM battery in my Miata with a deep cycle Optima Yellow top and that lasted me almost exactly 10 years before I had to replace it . . . . with another deep cycle Optima When the AGM I put in my TC fails, I'll report back here . . . . if this forum is still around then ;-) Don