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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Don Ridley


    Racing stripes being acceptable is a matter of opinion.... I am sure we all agree this driver has issues.
  2. 2 points


    Surfing ? People at our age don't surf , very grateful that i can still walk .
  3. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    I am trying to upgrade the instrument cluster on my 2016 TC XLT. Most 2014-2017 TCs have a monochrome center display between the speedo and tach. Titanium trim vehicles usually have a larger, color LCD display. I thought I could use color LCD Focus cluster and had limited success. The cluster worked, but it did not fit exactly. The bezels around the speedo and tach on the TC are very deep and this makes the Focus and Escape cluster incompatible. Too bad because these clusters are readily available at salvage yards for about $50. Attached are photos of my Focus experiment and an actual 2016 Titanium trim TC cluster (from a vehicle on Autotrader). So, I need to find a used cluster from a 2016 TC Titanium. I will work the internet and salvage company sites. If anyone has a lead on this very rare part, please let me know. Buying it from a dealer is not an option because it costs around $450 with a $300 core charge (another case where Ford does not want you to upgrade your vehicle). I think the part number I am looking for is FT1Z-10849-F. Plus, I am not 100% sure I can get the configuration file (IPC As Built) to work properly so I don't want to spend a fortune on something that won't work.
  4. 1 point

    Finally 2014 Camper finished

    Well it took a while but pretty much finished. Has Fridge, shore power, sink, water tank and pump, 12 speed fan, sliding screen windows, house battery , custom pull out bed. ( Bed pulls out to 5’ 7” I’m 5”5) You can can access the fridge and battery from the passenger sliding door. Taken in it out and it is awesome !! So happy.
  5. 1 point

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Hi All, I'm new here. Currently I drive a 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero, which is a badge-engineered WRX. It has served me very well for years, but is getting on in miles and I'm starting to look around. I've got a crazy idea that I need some help with since I'm new to the Ford scene. I want to buy a 2014+ TC, short wheel base, with the 1.6L Ecoboost motor and swap the transmission to a manual. Ideally it'd be a 6 speed installed, but if 5 speed is much easier, I'd take it. I have done a lot of Googling and seen a couple of manual conversions on the first generation TCs, but nothing for 2014+. Have you guys ever seen it? Any idea on the viability? What I think I know (please correct me if I'm wrong): The 1.6L ecoboost is the same motor (detuned a bit) that is in the Fiesta ST A B6 manual transmission from a Focus would bolt up to the 1.6L ecoboost Since the TC is sold all over the world (except here...) with a manual, the frame work is mostly there (mounting points, firewall pass-throughs, etc.) so it shouldn't take a ton of fabrication I think the biggest risk/unknown is what I would have to do electronically. I'm hoping a Fiesta ST ECU would work since that has a manual and it's the same motor, but I don't know for sure. Traction control might also be an issue - maybe I would just not have it. My current biggest problem is finding someone who would be willing to do the work. I'm a relatively mechanically inclined guy and do all of my own maintenance/repair work excepting for body work type stuff. But a project like this without documented precedent seems like something I should have a professional working on. Also, I've never done anything as major as pulling/installing a transmission or motor, so I don't have things like an engine hoist or a lift or anything. I'm in the Denver, CO area and would love a recommendation for any mechanics/shops who might be willing to consider working on a project like this. I haven't bought a TC connect yet, and won't until I know it can be done for a reasonable-ish price ($5k?).
  6. 1 point
    I'm running General Grabber AT2's in 215/65R16 and haven't had any rubbing or traction issues with them. I've gotten through mud that the original Conti's couldn't dream of getting through - I've even got stuck in my own yard several times with the OEM Conti's! There's no rub that I've noticed, but it is getting fairly tight at this size. And yes, I have spike lug nuts, haha. I need to get some better looking wheels to go with them, though. The second picture shows the clearance with the wheels turned, not straight ahead.
  7. 1 point
    Which generation are you referring to? I own the gen2 (2014-2018), and put 215/60R16 winter tires on. Your biggest concern will be the front wheel wells. I rallycrossed in those size tires, and had no rubbing or interference, but it sure looked tight! I'm not sure about a 65 ratio. I think they will, but can't guarantee anything. The 60R ratio measures at 26.2" diameter, 65R measures at 27" diameter, and the stock 55R ratio measures 25.3" diameter. Hope this helps!
  8. 1 point
    Double Nickels


    Fine print also advises not to lift all four tires, or 2 tires on the same side. Also not to use other lifting device. More to consider.
  9. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Footwell Lighting?

    Yes. I installed led strip lights from Amazon. They have dozens of choices for about $20. I connected to the power for the cabin lights located on the BCM behind the glove box. Overall, an easy project. Something like this Car LED Strip Lights, 4pcs 48 USB LED Interior Lights, MultiColor Music Car Strip Light Under Dash Lighting Kit with Sound Active Function and Remote Controller, DC 5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWZVQC1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S-99Cb0YQJA1S I cut off the unused strips and cut and spliced the wires to length
  10. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Liftgate release switch upgrade

    As part of another (unsuccessful) project, I found the trunk release switch from a Focus will also release the liftgate on a TC. I bought a switch from a local salvage yard for $30. It is easy to install by removing the side panel and popping out the switch panel with plastic panel removal tools. The switch sends a signal over the LIN (low speed network) to control the lights, trunk release etc.. Apparently the trunk release LIN message also releases the liftgate (actually unlatches to door, not just unlock like the button on the key fob). The switch will not activate if the vehicle is in gear. Not sure if this is useful, but I had the switch so I installed it. I think a 2012+ Focus switch will work.
  11. 1 point
    G B L

    Citroën Berlingo

    I hope that this is a good option for your business. I am sure you will keep us posted on the good and not so good. As for the rear door Mine is a passenger configuration so the larger rear slider is more value for me. In any event there will not be a Citroën Berlingo available in the US any time soon , leaving no real choice in the work/ small passenger van market here.
  12. 1 point
    Beta Don


    Rhino Ramps are the answer - I've been using a set now for more than 20 years on half a dozen different cars. They worked well even on my Miata with the front chin spoiler. They fit the TC's air dam no problem. Well worth the cost Don
  13. 1 point

    2014 TC Headliner Removal

    (NOTE: I need to come back and add the rest of the pics in, they're far too large and I ran out of space. When I have a few min to shrink them all down I will.) Hello! About a month ago I put some rhino rack roof racks on my TC. Step 1 was removal of the headliner. I'll post the rest of my install separately but getting the liner info up first. I'll post in the order I think you *should* perform the headliner drop, not the order I actually performed it. (There were a few mistakes!) 1. Pop all your rear overhead lights out and disconnect. The lights all have a side that easily swivels down without a lot of force, then using a screwdriver or plastic pry bar you should be able to pop it off the semi-hinge in the headliner plastic that retains it. Gently lower the light and pull the plugs off the metal contacts in the lights. Each has two plugs on it. 2. I placed the rear lights in the side magazine-type slots for safe keeping. Note you don't want to tug too much on the cables that run to the lights because they are (poorly) glued to the headliner. 3. Drop the forward light as much as possible and disconnect. I can't remember if you can access all the plugs, the front light is a bit more complicated. As long as you have a helper you can finish disconnecting once you drop the liner. **Drop Forward Headliner** (add pic) 1. Pop off the A pillar plastic fairings toward the top (headliner). I don't think you need to completely remove them, but it takes a little abuse to pop the headliner out. 2. Remove the plastic pop-fasteners just behind the front seats that join the front and rear headliner portions. 3. If you have GPS (I think) there is a plastic cover just under the mirror that you will want to pop off, and free the little GPS box (or whatever it is). I can't recall if you can actually disconnect it, but it's not particularly important either way. 4. Drop the overhead bins/map light/etc assembly. This is pretty straightforward, there are a bunch of screws that hold it up that are easy to find I think two are covered by plastic clips. You'll probably want a helper, this thing is awkward to support solo and disconnect all the wires, but it can be done. You will have to disconnect wires to pull it all the way out of the car, pretty straight forward. 5. Wiggle the headliner down, the pillar plastic trim will be holding it up, but it's fairly compliant so you can drop it. You will want to position the seats so that it does NOT drop all the way. There are some cables that you can't disconnect (or at least I didn't bother). Cable that I didn't disconnect shown below. (add pic) 6. IMPORTANT! In the picture below I show a little disconnect that is on the passenger side of the car right where the headliners come together; it resides on the forward side of the body stiffener. This is the power connection from the front headliner to the rear headliner, and the reason you have to drop the front headliner first; you will want to pop it off the retaining clip and disconnect. You can also see part of the connector on the lower left side of the headliner pic. (add pic) ** Remove Rear Headliner** (add pic) This is fairly straight forward other than the coat hooks with "AIRBAG" on them. 7. Pop off the rear door plastic cover on the ceiling that covers the latch points for the rear doors, it comes off easy. 8. Pop all the visible plastic pop-fasteners out. 9. Disconnect seat belt mounts, it's a torx 45 bit (if i remember correctly). Then remove or loosen all of the plastic pillar fairings as appropriate, careful with the rear-most ones, there are a few clips that are easy to snap off, just pull gently. 10. The absolute most maddening part is the coat hooks, they're simple but impossible to understand without knowing how they work. If you pry up the little plastic cover that says airbag with a screw driver you can slide the screw driver up into the body of the hook. The body of the hook can be pried out (don't worry that little flap can take a lot of abuse). It slides directly out and releases the retention arms grabbing the frame of the car. Once you pop the body out you can just twist the hook 90 degrees and it comes right out. 11. Assuming you properly disconnected the power cable, you should be good to drop the headliner! It takes a bit of flexing, you will have to pop it out from some of the black weather-stripping, but it's not too rough. Now that I think back... I guess you could have left the lights in the headliner for the rear part! I did not, probably safer to pop them out anyway. Other notes: - The headliner is a fiberglass sandwich. If you are particularly sensitive probably wear gloves. The top and bottom are coated and will not bother you, but the edges are raw and will get you a little itchy. - The glue that retains the power cables to the headliners is super crummy. I didn't want to get too creative and stain or bleed a chemical through the liner trying to reattach, so I just attempted to superglue the cables back to the original glue. Not an amazing idea, barely held together. I think the best plan would be a hot glue gun and just run a new strip of hot glue to retain the cable. Not really necessary though. - I broke a few of the retention clips for the pillar plastics by prying aggressively; only one area is it notably loose, and I think it's only noticeable to me... oh well. - Lights on the TC Titaniums seem to be done differently. If you have a titanium these instructions may not be perfect.
  14. 1 point

    On the way!

    Welcome to the club! She's a great vehicle. Many good times ahead.
  15. 1 point

    Tire size settings in Forscan

    I run three different size setups on the front (rear doesn't count), none of them stock. 245/50/16, 225/55/16 & 225/60/16 for 1.2%, 1.6% & 5.1% respectively. The only one that concerns me much is 5.1% cause if I push the envelope too far I'm in "ticket range". The error gets progressively less as speed reduces so mostly its only at highway speeds that it matters much. That said, since retiring recently I find that there is never a need to get in any hurry to get anywhere.
  16. 1 point
    Sleeping in a van, is better than sleeping in a tent.
  17. 1 point
    Bill Jackson


    The flames thing kinda scares me, most of the vehicles I own last well into the 200 thousand mile mark. Some day the flames may be real when my old standby decides to lay down for good. I want to be able to see for sure if it's on fire or not.
  18. 1 point


    You were in ;perfect position for a PIT maneuver. Should have taken him out.
  19. 1 point
    Most Transit Connect are white and in commercial use. You don't have flashing warning lights or a ladder rack. You're already ahead.
  20. 1 point
    Bill Jackson


    This looks awesome. The Gen1 TC has a much smaller footwell but I am going to use this info and make what I can of the space. I was disappointed after all the work to remove the cover over the footwell....is that all? But space is space and tools or even batteries or removable water tanks would fit really well in that space. Thanks for the informative post.
  21. 1 point

    Hello from France

    Hey there ! I just receive my "Ford grand tourneo connect Titanium 120cv", as named in France, So I log in. Bought with a special offer Yatoo extrême (www.yatoo-extreme.com) to sleep well 1 night or 2 in it, with 2 paragliders (my wife's and mine) and à kennel for the dog. I hope find help here, but also to provide, as far as I can (I'm just two days old with this car, please wait a few month before expecting ans ers other than "Google it" :D) Lots of thanks for your future help Slovas P. S. :as said, I'm french, So... Sorry for my english.
  22. 1 point


    Hi folks, I've been playing with Forscan on my 2018 TC (specifically to disable approach lights). I wrote up a complete tutorial on my website. I'm just learning Forscan so I'm sure I have some small details wrong, but hopefully that will help others.
  23. 1 point

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Yeah, I've got some progress... Take yourself a little gander at this sweet action: It runs. The ST motor is in the TC and it starts and runs like a dream. So, this is the top of the hill. Nothing after this point is totally wacko - it's all been done before. I did the thing that you see so often where a super crazy project is posted with lots of updates for a while and then it just goes dead forever. Well, I'm back and this thread is going to end in an absolutely glorious way. It isn't done now, but it certainly will be.
  24. 1 point

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Got a sweet update today - the ST motor is in the van. It bolted right up with no complications. The clutch lines are hooked up as well, but that's all for now. Big milestone!
  25. 1 point

    2014+ TC Manual Conversion

    Yeah, I'm aware. The reason for looking for a salvage ST to use is that I'm going for more than just a drivetrain swap - I need engine/transmission/harness/ECU but I also want wheels, exhaust (maybe - we'll see if that can work), front seats, steering wheel, badges, etc. The crate engine is nice for a kit car or something like that but in this case it makes more sense to buy a whole car and pull out what is needed.