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  1. 1 point
    Slamsit

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Oh yeah....I also sourced and now have the rear drum to disc conversion. First one in the USA to do this.....better yet, first one in the USA to do any of this stuff to a Transit Connect. LOL
  2. 1 point
    desert_connect

    2017 TC XLT simple camper

    Here are pictures of my simple camper conversion. I needed a bed for two, a sofa, a table, a place for a cooler, it had to be easy to install and remove. I built this during a week and then we went on a 3 week camping trip spending every night in it. Overall, it works well for us. 3300 miles on the trip and averaged 29.0 mpg. I have since removed the top half of the folding seat back, it is more comfortable w/o. The eye bolt thing on the rear door holds the door open a couple of inches for ventilation while at the same time being able to lock the door. The third cushion fits nicely behind the seat back. The unit is held in place with 2 turn buckles, 1 in rear shown in pics and the other is at the L mid tie down point. I can remove this in a few minutes by myself and have an empty van again.
  3. 1 point
    mgordon

    Transit Connect Tailgate Tents

    Not exactly what you asked for, but I just put an awning on mine, and you can get 'walls' for the awnings as well.
  4. 1 point
    desert_connect

    2017 TC XLT simple camper

    We have returned from 12 more days of van camping, this totals up more than 50 nights in two years. The new sliding door window worked out great for extra ventilation along with the lithium gen/batt powered fan and our new little dog likes it too. As a temporary solution for this trip I gorilla taped a piece of fiberglass screen over the outside of the window and cracked the front door windows an inch when parked. Light rain was no problem and the air moving in though the side window and out the front windows seemed to keep the bugs out. Even with 99% humidity inside, according to the meter, the van roof and walls remained completely dry, no dripping like in the past. I will find a better solution for the screen and tweak the fan placement but overall this arrangement was a success.
  5. 1 point
    windguy

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    I upgrade my IPC recently and want to add some notes to the ones above from Beta Don and Don R. Both Don's were very helpful in guiding me through the process and Don R gets all the credit for pioneering this mod. Big Mahalos! I really like having the oversized MPH display and for that reason alone I would recommend making this upgrade. FINDING A DONOR IPC I think the best place to find one is searching LKQ's database of salvaged parts. I got mine this way after Don R giving me some search tips. I received exactly what I ordered and shipping was included in the price. Kind of interesting to see all the bashed in TCs. Some look perfect so I assume they got flooded out. https://www.lkqonline.com/ My van is a 2015 so I searched under 2014 and 2015 to open up the selection. See the screen shots below. My donor IPC was listed under 2014, P/N: DT1T-10849-UCC As mentioned in other posts, you need to find a cluster that ends with a -UXX. Prefix is DT1T for 2014 and 2015, FT1T for 2016 and newer. Your safest bet is to find a van that is a Titanium. Verify by seeing the upper reflector in the rear taillights. Under the "Source Vehicle" tab, some descriptions will say Titanium, others might not. If you can see a pic of the IPC, then it's a sure thing you've got the right one. You can also run the VIN in Ford ETIS to see if it's a Titanium. Not all salvaged vans will show a specific pic of the IPC. Mine did and it was turned on so I knew it was the upgraded version. My cost was $68 with shipping plus tax. INSTALL NOTES All tips provided by the Dons are spot on. That top panel was hard to get to budge. I was getting frustrated but eventually it broke loose. I used jar opener grippies to help pull it when levering it with the same plastic tool Don R is showing. Before removing the lower trim piece, lower the steering wheel as much as possible. The lower trim pops out pretty easily with a light tug and it's attached to the steering column with some flexible vinyl gasket. I wouldn't remove this part but just leave it pulled forward and resting on the steering column. The IPC connector as Don R shows has a release lever, but you have to push a small button down first to get the lever to shift to the right to release. I couldn't figure this out on my own and consulted with Don R for help. Lastly, be careful with the lower two screws as Beta Don pointed out. For getting the odometer reprogrammed, I used the place Don R recommended, odo-pro.com. $89 with return shipping and the turnaround was fast. It cost me $13 something to ship it USPS from CA to Odo-pro in CO. http://odo-pro.com/index.html So for around $175 you can get an upgraded IPC for your van. It's a low risk upgrade and well worth the effort.
  6. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    You will need a Torx T-15 screwdriver to remove the four screws holding the IPC to the dash. The top two screws will be obvious when the top cover is removed. The bottom two are hidden behind a removable cover that clips to the dash and the steering column with a bit of vinyl in between - That one can be a bit tricky to get disconnected from the steering column. Use extreme care not to drop either of the bottom screws into the bowels of the dash, where they might never be found again! Don
  7. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    Removing the cover can be tough. Carefully pry with a tool that won't bend or mark the plastic. A firm tug will unclip it. The IPC connector self extracts by rotating the bracket on the plug.
  8. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    The size of the Focus cluster was not the same as the TC . There is no way to make it fit and look nice. After more research: 2014 and 2015 LCD cluster PN DT1T-10849-Ux 2016 PN FT1T-10849-Ux Try to match model years if you are upgrading.
  9. 1 point
    sKiZo

    Different Cargo Dimensions?

    ** Not seeing anything for the older TCs at the links provided. I had the roof bumped up on a 2011 with good results.The new top adds about a foot, and height was around 54" without. Few other mods so far on what's still a work in progress. I was gonna get fancy with steps and such (notice the step bumper on the rear doors, but decided to go with a portable for the side door. Not much weight, 350 pound capacity, sturdy with no wobble, and just pick it up and toss it inside when not in use. The two stepper is perfect for splitting the height up to the cargo floor. I'll be adding a couple grips once I get the "kitchen" and storage unit installed. Six foot tall, so I still have to hunch over a bit, but I can actually walk into the thing now. Mine came with a two piece cargo wall, so I just removed the section behind the drivers seat so I'll be able to fold that forward for a bit more sleeping room. Left the passenger side cargo wall in place as it's handy for the already mounted inverter and such. Total length from the rear doors to the back of the drivers seat set all the way back is around 70 inches. Width is four feet between the wheel wells, and about 57" wall to wall. Yes, you DO need to get creative when setting it up, but there's a lot of different options, and lots of ideas from other folk who've converted them over the years. My plan is to just use it for a weekend solo camper, so it should work fine, and I figure it'd be good for a couple if you're extremely friendly.
  10. 1 point
    Torton

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Hello Folks, I've been building out my 2015 van into a micro camper for the past few months. I've been sharing the story on reddit, but I figured I should post here as well especially since I used resources I found on this site to influence my build. I have a ton of photos I've posted and taken. I'll start adding them here. So far, I've posted 4 different "phases of the project. So I'll make one post per phase to share what I've done so far. Phase 1: Here is the start of the conversion of our Transit Connect into a weekend getaway camper. It's a 2015 model with the long wheel base, which adds around 1 foot of extra cargo length. The boxes are built with baltic birch. Using this wood helps keep the weight down by not having to add much extra support beyond the plywood itself. I "designed" the layout in Google Sketchup (it was the first time I had ever used a 3d modeling software) and then built templates out of cardboard. After that, I started building the boxes. Link to the album. 2015 Transit Connect - Long Wheel Base Cargo Area - Roughly 7'x4' Making Sure We'll Have Enough Head Room on the "Couch" Sketch-Up Drawing of the layout The Blue Box is the Water Container and The Red is Our Stove The "Kitchen" will be a drawer that slides 36" out from the side door. Cardboard Models Starting to Build the Boxes Interior of Box 1 Box 1 in the Van - 60in Long Box 2 The open end is where the drawer will slide out from. I'm going to add more supports on that side once the drawer is installed. Boxes in the Van The bed folds across from the couch. I still need to design the rear supports Front View of the Bed Bed panel folded onto the couch.
  11. 1 point
    Mike Chell

    dash cam wiring (2016 tc titanium)

    I figured I'd do a video on how I installed my dashcam.
  12. 1 point
    Mike Chell

    dash cam wiring (2016 tc titanium)

    I put one in my T.C. Cargo version. Took the driver's side windshield trim off. That exposes a hole through the body that accesses the engine compartment. I ran a fuse extender from the fuse block, hooked into a "key on" fuse. The wire was then routed up, under the trim, to the over head area, and out to the camera location. It turns on and off with the ignition, as designed.
  13. 1 point
    Other Ford owners have been able to make changes to the factory configuration of their vehicle’s computer modules. The F150 forums identified and changed dozens of options using a program called Forscan. But the configuration of the TC computer modules is different and requires a different approach. The Focus owners have been using a program called Foccus. This program has been working on Focus models up to 2016. I also found the Escape Forum guys used a more sophisticated function in Forscan to make several changes to 2017+ Escapes. Since the TC and Focus are built on the same platform, I wondered if we could use their program(s) to change setting in the TC. After some nervous trial and error, I found the Foccus program worked to change two functions on my 2016 TC-XLT: Global window closing using the key fob. High beam headlights and fog lights on at the same time (called Bambi-mode so you can see Bambi at night) Here are the details specific to my experience and links to well written tutorials on how to use Focccus and Forscan. Please read the attached forum links and tutorials for details on how to use these two programs. These modifications should work on 2014-2016 TCs BUT I HAVE ONLY TESTED IT ON MY 2016 TC, so proceed at your on risk. I am not an expert. Basic steps: Buy a high quality OBD II adapter (approx. $75) to link to the HS and MS CAN networks. See the Forscan tutorial for recommendations and cautions. Use Focccus to make the changes and load them into the Body Control Module (BCM) in your TC. YOU MUST MAKE A COPY OF THE ORIGINAL FACTORY CONFIGURATION in case you have any problems. You don’t need to make XML files. Use Forscan to clear the numerous DTC faults that are set by the procedure. Fix a residual problem/bug with a double horn honk when locking the doors. Here are the links. Please read thoroughly: Forscan Tutorial (OBD II specs. You will only use Forscan to clear DTCs) https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit Forum post about Forscan (for reference) http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573 FOCCCUS forum topic (this is most applicable to Transit Connect) http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/20866-focccus-pc-app-built-editor-all-around-reprogrammer.html FOCCCUS youtube (see others as needed.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_d7XJ2ydV60 Now connect to your TC using Focccus. Then “read from BCM” to load the configuration into Focccus. NOW SAVE A COPY OF THE ORIGINAL CONFIGURATION using the “save to file” button. Change setting #18 from "fog lamp US" to "fog lamp". Change setting #184 from "not set or disabled" to "global open/close B-Max" “Write to BCM” to load the changes. THIS IS THE CRITICAL STEP. Close Focccus after you are sure the write is complete. Open Forscan and clear all the DTCs. Test global closing by double press and hold the lock button on the key fob. The Bambi-mode causes some strange behavior that can be fixed. Locking the doors using the keyfob initiates a double lock (maybe lock then unlock?) and double horn honk. There appears to be a mis-set bit telling the TC that you are locking the doors remotely with the engine running. Here’s how I fixed/reset this error: Sit inside and close all the doors. Remove the key from the ignition, and lock the doors from the inside using the button on the door. Unlock the doors using the door button. If you have the perimeter alarm, lock yourself in the car using the keyfob. Wait for the alarm to set then open the door. The countdown beep will sound. Turn it off by pressing the unlock button. Now the doors should lock normally: one press w/o honk and two presses w/one honk. I could not fix this problem by loading the original file back into the BCM and this caused some stressful moments. I found a Focus owner had this same issue and he identified the lock/unlock fix. My addition of triggering the alarm may not be necessary but it worked and I did not want to go back and test every possibility. I did not try any other changes in Focccus because my TC has most of the options/functions listed. If you are daring, you can try adding other options using Focccus. But know that you are taking a chance and you need to be prepared to load the original file back into the BCM. But as I found with the double horn honk problem, there could be unexpected consequences. Dark Car Mode I saw the Explorer and F150 forums found a way to turn off the lights when the doors are opened (police or dark car mode). Focccus does not have this option. The Forscan or Focccus developers could reverse engineer this if there was enough interest and someone on this forum took the lead. Several people on this forum had the dealer activate this mode and having those configuration files will be the key.
  14. 1 point
    I tested Focccus and Forscan and could not find a setting that would allow the factory DRLs to be turned off. The good news is Forscan has a setting that should allow you to turn on DRL if they were not factory-set. BdyCM (central config) Engineering Mode 1 Daylight Running: 03 Standard Dipped Headlight Type: 02 Halogen with adjuster
  15. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    Sound deadening for road noise?

    JustinVP, I added sound deadening materials to my 2016 wagon. After reviewing lengthy discussions on car audio forums. there are two types of sound deadeners: 1. Heavy material to keep the metal from "ringing" and 2. Dense material to absorb sounds. The technical details are more complicated buy you get the idea. I used a Dynamat-like material (Second skin Damplifier Pro) on the door panels and floor. These materials only need 50% coverage to be effective. They can be difficult to install and are mainly for improving the audio quality of your sound system. However, Ford already adds similar material to much of the body, ceiling and floor because it works on road noise also. What may be more effective at reducing road noise is adding padding to all of the door and cargo area panels. I used Thermozite: http://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/products/Double-sided-thermozite-heat-shield-padding.html Apply with spray on glue. Removing the panels requires panel removal tools. Amazon has dozens: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1522545499&sr=8-7&keywords=panel+removal+tools Removing the front door panels can be tricky. Here are some instructions: I really like the sound and feel the Thermozite adds. Does it really make the interior much quieter? I can't say for sure. The first couple of panels will take you a while to insulate, but it gets easier as you go.
  16. 1 point
    Correct, the chip inside the key placed in the vehicle will allow the vehicle to be started and drivable. In other words leaving a spare key inside will cancel or turn off the electronic anit-theft function. You can disable the chip inside the key by wrapping the key in aluminum foil.........I did this on both my Subaru and Ford Ranger, tested it and it did the job.
  17. 1 point
    engineer

    cross bars for 2017 TC Wagon

    figured out a way for less than $200. It takes three items to make the crossbar setup. First, The USA amazon is too expensive. You order from Amazon.com.uk the Thule flush railing kit 184016 (thule 4016) which fits TC from 2014 on. That will fit the silver flush rails. Then you need the footpack and crossbars to go with the 4016 kit. That I went to eBay and purchased a Thule generic setup: https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-Audi-Q5-06-Audi-Q7-16-BMW-X1-Roof-Rack-Cross-Bar-Top-Rail-Cargo-Carrier. This eBay item is for Audi but will accept genuine Thule parts. I did not use the Ebay Audi flush railing pieces since they will not fit a TC; used the 4016 kit instead, with the eBay Audi footpack and cross rails. Now on Amazon.com.uk you can order everything you need for the crossrails, but with the money conversion and shipping, that cost is too high. However, you get several options, like square bars, wing type in alum or black, etc. just be mindful, that different type bars take different type footpacks to work.
  18. 1 point
    Here's how I did it. Rather than trying to change my sockets to switched, and since I was needing the power in the overhead shelf area instead of down low on the console, I added extra connections to the overhead shelf and tapped the power from spare switched fuse locations. For convenience, I added a small accessory fuse box behind the glove box. Then used that for all my future add-ons. The link below is for when I added USB outlets, but at the end added an additional 12V sockets. That topic has links to the other stages of the build.
  19. 1 point
    Torton

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!
  20. 1 point
    Torton

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 3: Upholstery and Doors Here's the third album of progress on the Transit Connect Camper. It might not look like much, but the functional refinements make a huge difference! The photo included in this post is a couple buddies having some cold drinks under the awning after a mountain bike ride. I took the van to Kentucky for it's maiden voyage in June and the trip went really well. The only piece that was super annoying was having to lift the seat in the back to access the large storage area under the "couch". I didn't expect for it to be as big of a deal as it was. I added a couple doors to make accessing the storage area easier. The bed was one of the best parts of the van, it's just barely narrower than a full bed and is full length. The Ikea mattress proved to be much more comfy than I had expected! The cooking drawer also proved to be as functional as I could have hoped. Having the 7 gallons of water in the van was great, since hiking in 90 degree weather left me dusty and thirsty. I also added the ARB awning, which is probably my favorite piece of the build so far especially since I'm a ginger and have trouble being out in the sun. Phase 3 Photos Here's a photo with the "couch" without the doors on the bench. In order to access the storage area you had to lift up the seat. During my first multi-day trip with the van, I found that this was way more of a pain than I had expected it to be, especially when having to do things like change or cook where you have to enter the storage area many times in a row. Also, even with the current set up, we can still fit two bikes inside the van without putting them on the cushions. I added 3 doors to give easier access. Cutting huge holes in the bench was a little nerve-racking, but it is so much better than constantly lifting the bench top. The cabinets are sized so that our folding chairs and table can fit in the back portion of the cabinet. Now we'll be able to slide them in and out of the back door. The bed folded down. The entire back of the van becomes the bed, which is about 2 inches narrower than a full size bed and full length. This is before adding the cabinet doors, which will allow access to the under-bed storage that wasn't possible before when the bed was folded down. Bonus cooking set-up photo.
  21. 1 point
    Torton

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    So, I seem to be having trouble putting photos in the forum using anything other than uploading them individually. Is there a secret way to use embed codes that I'm missing? Phase 2: The Kitchen and Bed Either way, heres the second part of my Transit Connect camper conversion. In this part, I've finished putting together the boxes that will serve as storage and the kitchen for our camper. The idea is to have something that is not as much about living inside of, but a motivator and facilitator to make being/going outside easier and more convenient. We'll be using this to take our honeymoon this fall. The boxes are built out of baltic birch plywood, which I would highly recommend. The stuff is really great to work with and is super stable and sturdy. I've used hand planes to flatten and trim edges, which wouldn't work nearly as well with standard plywood. The mattress is from Ikea and the water tank and stove are standard things you can find at camping stores. Stove: Camp Chef Everest. Water Tank: Reliance 4 gallon Aqua-Tainer Part 2 Photos The drawer had to be built around two pieces: This water tank and the stove. I built the frame of the drawer first. The drawer is supported by 36" 500lb capacity slides. The slides were one of the most expensive pieces of this project so far. Building the shelves to support the stove. There's around an eighth of an inch of clearance above the water jug. These were some tight tolerances for me! The top shelf is there to raise the stove higher for a more natural cooking position. The stove slides into the space in between the top and little compartment. The shelf sits on this little compartment where utensils and such will go. I might make this area a little taller to accommodate more pots and pans. The full bed from ikea almost fit without having to trim the width. the bed dimensions are 49"x74" The bed trimmed to fit. I built temporary legs to support the bed. These will be replaced with something a little more sleek later on. The foam was cut with a super cheap bread knife. Note: The foam attracts animal hair like a magnet, so once the cover is off keep it away from pets! Laying out the lines for the foam sections. This was where my first set of cuts was. The rest were much more neat. I tried a couple different knives before I settled on the bread knife. Mattress Cut to Width. The "couch" in place. I didn't realize how funny the "couch" would look, but that's the price I pay for having a full size mattress in the van. Here's the slide out drawer coming out of the van. The stove on its platform with cubby open. The stove open and ready for cooking
  22. 1 point
    DonShockley

    Remove rear seats from the wagon

    Installing and removing the seats is a very simple process. There are just four bolts holding each one in. You only need a T50 Torx wrench to remove them. The second row seats have two sets of two bolts at the front corners under some black cover pieces that just snap off for easy access. The third row seats have one at each corner of the seats. You need to move the seat all the way forward to access the rear bolts and then slide it back to access the front ones. Once the bolts are removed, just a little wiggle to break the mounts loose then lift straight up to remove them. There are short locating pins on the bottoms of the mounts that are fairly tight fits into holes in the floor. Putting them back in is as simple as dropping them in, making sure to move them into position so the locating pins hit their holes and the base drops all the way down into position, and installing the bolts. Here's a thread I made documenting how I removed the seats on my 2015 LWB wagon to make it into a van. Unfortunately, I didn't think to start taking photos until after I had the seats out. But there are several photos in there that show the openings in the floor mat where the bolts were installed. It's the places where you can see the silver metal through the black floor mat. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4109-converted-2015-lwb-wagon-into-a-van/?p=11644
  23. 1 point
    DonShockley

    Converted 2015 LWB Wagon into a Van

    Here's a couple extras! The first is a drawing with all the measurements for the single piece plywood deck I built. And these measurements were corrected to fix the errors I described earlier. Naturally these were for my vehicle so there's no guarantee they'll match yours if you want to try this build. But it should be close if you have a LWB Wagon. The second is a quick diagram and explanation I had for some alternate ways of doing the job that occurred to me during the build. My initial thought was for a smooth, strong and flat floor from a single continuous sheet. But you can get a bit more coverage, 57" wide at the doors instead of 48" wide, if you are willing to have a cut joint in the middle of your floor. It was also starting to become a pain every time I had to install and remove the single panel for the numerous trials and modifications. A narrower folding floor, 26" wide when folded with hinges, can be made in 3 pieces to make frequent installation and removal much easier. Unfortunately, it will also require a second (half) sheet of plywood. I tried and just couldn't seem to get all 3 pieces to pattern onto a single 4x8 sheet if you want the full 57" width at the doors. They are in PDF format for most universal viewing. That's part of the reason for the delay in posting this thread. It took a week to try to learn the DraftSight program well enough to produce a useful drawing. Transit Connect Floor Alternate Ideas.pdf Transit Connect Floor Dimensioned.pdf But if you want the CAD drawings I generated for these, PM me an email address to send them to. I tried to upload the .dwg files but the forum wouldn't allow it. Update: Found an error in the files orignally posted. Fixed the error and posted new corrected files.
  24. 1 point
    KeyWestLes

    Remote start workaround...

    I found online a post on another Ford forum that the dealer can disable the MyKey feature, which will allow the remote start to continue engine running when you open a door. I'll be doing that!
  25. 1 point
    mustang

    Remote start workaround...

    my van came with two xtra keys , all 4 are administrator keys until you program them to be "my keys" 1 key must always remain as "admin key" you cannot reprogram anything for a "my key" with out an "admin key" also . You can find info online to disable mykey on the vehicle yourself . still need an admin key to do it . or you can do what I did and never program a key the van doesn't have my key so to speak until you program one . and to the OP ........ maybe if you disable my key bt going thru the procedure I found online for a Fusion , your remote starter will work right . or not ?
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