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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Don Ridley

    Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?

    2" is more versatile. A simple insert converts to 1.25".
  2. 2 points
    davidparker

    Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?

    It is a 2018, Gen 2 Cargo. thanks for the feedback! I am leaning towards the Class 3. Just want to check with the members first, to make sure I know if there are any issues.
  3. 1 point
    G B L

    Curt Hitch Class 2 or 3?

    Go with the 2" receiver that make all the hitches useful with other vehicles .
  4. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Troubleshooting serious vibration

    Just a thought; you should Mercon LV. Ford automatic transmissions have been known to fail because the wrong fluid was used. Not to say that you have to use Ford Motorcraft brand. You could use other brands which meet specifications, or are Mercon vLV licensed. But you do not want to use just any type of ATF sold over the counter. When Ford began using Mercon V, a lot of people were buying Dex/Merc ATF and/or multi-vehicle ATF. Those ATF do not meet Mercon V spec. Those transmissions failed. The 6F35 uses a low viscosity fluid. Be sure that your choice of ATF is labeled for Mercon LV. Most of the over-the-counter ATF are not Mercon LV spec. It's not too late to correct this. And be sure that you perform a triple drain & fill, or a transmission return line exchange. I cannot stress how important it is to have the correct ATF. Glad that you got some new spark plugs and coil over plug ignitions, and that it worked out. On that note, what brands did you use? Did you stick with Motorcraft, since it's what most people recommend? The common theory is that Ford engines operate best with Motorcraft plugs and ignitions. I don't buy it. I think that there are brands which may not work well, and then there are people who buy less expensive spark plugs. To save money, some people will install the least expensive spark plugs. Commonly, that would be a copper spark plug. Not a great idea when your car came with finewire platinum, double platinum, or iridium spark plugs. The other common mistake is to use spark plugs right out of the box, without checking the gap. Some plugs say that the recommended part number for your application is correct, and that you are not suppose to change the gap. Then there is the controversy that today's modern engines and modern spark plugs do not require anti-seize. Then when you're looking at coil over plug ignition, Motorcraft can cost up to 3X as much as a product which you've never seen or heard of.
  5. 1 point
    Osco

    Oil

    I don't think a few wiser people choosing not to buy Mobil products would have any effect on the companies bottom line. I choose it because of the results I have gotten, and the price,, I think it was $28 for 5 qts at wally world,, BUT I will admit I prolly would get the same results from any top shelf oil you guys could name. On Mobile 1: 394,000 trouble free miles out of a AMC straight six designed in 1957, converted to EFI and In my 1996 jeep cherokee before I wore out a rear main. 410,000 out of a Geo Metro with the Toyota twin cam. 380,000 out of a tacoma with the 2.4 L four banger,, would have got more but crashed it. and my best: 528,000 out of the Toyota 2.7 Liter 4 banger in my 2006 Tacoma, I pulled a 2,000 enclosed trailer and 800 or so in the bed. It had low compression and the mpg's were falling, imagine that....528k,,,,never even replaced the timing chain. not a single engine problem. My research told me my oil and filter choice was a major factor In ALL these engines.. "Mobile is a city in Alabama" PMSL good catch ๐Ÿ˜›
  6. 1 point
    OLDSCHOOLFOOL

    245/45R17 Tires

    I don't know about all that. I seem to recall you hold the record for largest diameter tire on the front of a Gen II.๐Ÿ‘ I was hoping someone might have already run this size. It occurred to me that I could possibly simulate the 245/45/17 size with what I already have by using 245/50/16 with a 5mm spacer effectively setting the offset to +45. The diameter is almost identical. Being on a fixed income now I need to be sure before buying something else that I can't eat. The simplest and probably best choice may be to simply run 235/45/17 which will DEFINITELY work and gives no speedometer error.
  7. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Oil

    Havoline has been a premium grade oil for half a century or more - I would have no qualms about using it in any engine of mine. Everything I have is now using synthetic, so the super priced stuff you found from Amazon wouldn't do me much good though. One time years ago, I found Purolator Pure One oil filters to fit my Mazdas (and also my Kubota diesel) on Amazon for less than $3 each, so I bought a case of 24 - They were 7 or 8 bucks everywhere else. Those lasted me several years. Every now and then, Amazon has something at a price almost too good to be true, but it is. Those sales usually only last for a few days, so if it's something you use, buy up a ton of it while you're getting it for half price or less Other than Exxon and Mobil products, the only other brands I shy away from are Pennzoil and Quaker State. Old timers here may recall that both of those were originally made only from Pennsylvania crude oil (hence the names) which was very high in Paraffin (wax) which was thought in the old days to be the cat's meow for engines with babbited bearings. When it came time to do any engine work though, you literally needed a crow bar to pry the valve cover off the engine because it was full of solid wax! I'm sure in this modern age, both Pennzoil and Quaker State are now making very good products, but my thinking has always been that the other manufacturers have about 30 years experience on them, because in the old days, they weren't researching any good oil molecules . . . . they were just peddling that waxy crap! โ˜น๏ธ Don
  8. 1 point
    Fifty150

    Oil

    It looks like Havoline is worth the money. People much more knowledgeable than me, could view the numbers on what's in the bottle, and weigh in on what's good and what's not so good. There are much more expensive oil formulations. The more expensive oil may be better. But for $8.15 for 5 quarts, Havoline has won my business. PQIA tested the 5W-30 weight. The 5W-20 is probably pretty close when it comes to the additive package. Probably almost the same amounts of magic juju to clean the engine and hold contaminants in suspension. High Mileage Oil is suppose to also have fairy dust which conditions and swells the seals. I'll let you guys know if anything bad happens from using this oil.
  9. 1 point
    Just did this on my 14 ecoboost. Bought ebay leather wheel with all the controls. (including the bluetooth/audio stuff I don't have the head unit for) Wheel swap was easy. Unhook airbag clips using the video above. Unclip harnesses. The two airbag harnesses are double-retained with little plastic clips, careful. Set airbag aside. Remove single bolt holding the wheel. It has a single drop of blue threadlocker on it, so it takes a bit of force to break it free, then it comes out easily. Carefully note which way you have the wheel turned. A small yank released mine, no puller needed. There are 2 plastic pins that index with the wheel, these are likely for stability control wheel position sensors. The clockspring will spin freely with the wheel removed - don't spin it, you'll lose your place. Place new wheel on center pin. Plastic wheel position pins should fit right into the holes. Put a dab of blue threadlock on center bolt. Reinstall bolt. I torqued mine to 29ft/lbs - based on a number I found on my phone for a different ford - I don't even remember which one. Maybe a Fiesta. Tried to program with a cheap wifi obd2 reader using the instructions on page2 (laptop was plugged into ethernet for the download). It went all the way through, and failed on the write. Multiple times. Ordered OBDLink SX USB on amazon, carefully using the OBDLink store. Drove another 1500 miles without cruise. Grr. Obdlink sx (USB) arrived at the office while we were 200 miles away. Co-worker that was helping me went by the office to get the new OBDLINK. He sent me these photos.
  10. 1 point
    drwatt

    New Member

    I bought it converted. I am a disabled Viet Nam Vet with Parkinson's Disease. I cannot do that type of work anymore.
  11. 1 point
    mrtn

    Center Bore Diameter

    0.1 mm not 1 mm. That's literally paper thin. 0.1 mm = 0.0039".
  12. 1 point
    petermbooth

    Fan becomes LOUD at 3 and 4

    Hi all, I'm a new Transit Connect owner and I'm trying to figure out if there's a problem with my fan. When the van is turned to 0,1, or 2, it makes almost NO sound. When I turn it to 3, however, it feels like a new/different fan kicks in and it is very loud and actually vibrates the steering wheel. And it makes a low thrumming noise (almost like the fan itself is maybe vibrating on its mount) I'm wondering if this is just normal for these vans. (2018 TC Cargo with the long wheelbase) I don't wan't to take it to Ford to have it repaired if they're just going to say, "That's what these things sound like"
  13. 1 point
    ModYourConnect

    2014+ Lowering Springs

    The drop is spot on there.
  14. 1 point
    Was this option offered in the US? I have kids with car seats and itโ€™s really hard to access the 3rd row with the car seats installed. Iโ€™d like to convert mine. Thanks!
  15. 1 point
    Of course it's possible. It's possible to do whatever you want. You just have to be willing to do the work, to make it work. I doubt if it will be a simple bolt-on swap. First, remove the seats you already have. Then get the seats you want, plus all of the mounting hardware for those seats. Now you may need to remove the hardware for your seats, and install the hardware for the seats you want. You may have to cut away what you don't want, and weld in a new piece of flooring to mount the seats you want.
  16. 1 point
    Beta Don

    OEM Seat Compatibility

    My 2014 SWB cane with the removable 60/40 split bench. The seat backs fold flat to the bottoms and then the entire seat flips up 90 degrees and stows vertically, resting on the backs of the front buckets - The headrests don't need to be removed as they end up stowed in the footwell area when flipped up vertically. Flip a pair of little levers and you can lift wither the 60 or the 40 portion (or both) out of the van and stow them at home when you need the extra room. The seat belts are built into the seats (both halves of the center belt) so they come out with the seats. Certainly the neatest seating design I've ever seen But . . . . I am 90% sure these would only fit a SWB van which was designed for them, as the mounting system is a part of the van floor, so I doubt you could install them in a LWB model. I mention this only to warn you that if you were to buy a set of these used, I think you would have a very difficult time mounting them in your van Don
  17. 1 point
    sKiZo

    Yet Another 2011 Connect Conversion

    Nope - and I don't suppose I'd listen much if he did ... <G> Truth be told, nothing different happening here than with any other van conversion where the roof is raised. We're not talking much in the way of open length. One rail was removed, and can't say I was all that impressed with the strength and rigidity of that anyway, so I expect Ford has a lot of confidence in the wall structure and support. Also another good reason to spring for the wood reinforcement on the Fiberine topper. That's molded to shape and bonded right to the shell and I'd think makes it even stronger than the original roof panel WITH the brace installed. Plan is also at some point to add overhead storage to the back of the roof. Could always beef that up some for additional strength. The new storage box would probably cover half the distance from the back doors to the support that was removed. Also plan to box in the area up front between the old roof and the new - I'm thinking that would be a great place to stash blankets and stuff that doesn't mind being jammed into odd spaces. That also could come back a bit further than the existing roof support to shrink the open area even more. But ... as mentioned ... don't expect to lose any sleep over it, eh.
  18. 1 point
    been working on my transit connect for about a month, lots has been done, lots left to do. run down, -10GA power wire from battery junction plate to right rear corner of the van -Bluesea 6 circuit fuse box with ground buss -3 gang switch panel, 12v CLA, and dual USB ports installed in passenger side rear plastic trim -bed/storage platform, converts into seating, and sleeping as needed, held into the 10mm threaded holes in the floor, all done in 3/4" baltic birch with 3 coats of poly -sheet vinyl flooring -4" firm foam cushions wrapped in grey tweed
  19. 1 point
    coating the floor with poly, 2 coats rough cut flooring glue, not pictured, and roll out the floor and cut it closer. a lot of this, sand and poly, sand and poly, flip, and more of the same. eventually they start lookin nice!
  20. 1 point
    hide-a-mat i had laying around the house. a bit wide but it might work
  21. 1 point
    eddwal50

    Can you add roof rack rails

    Hi I have a 2014 transit LWB wagon I installed the Thule bars I used bolts with the bolt head on inside of van with nylon insert nuts found the rack was noisy without the wind deflector hope this helps
  22. 1 point
    chong

    Vincent VanGoing 1.0

    The original plan was to try and store the batteries under the floor extension. While they will fit, it wasn't going to work out to be a good situation. We decided that they would live behind the passenger seat. The next phase of the build would be insulation. We are hardcore skiers, and it gets COLD at night. We've used a lot of different types of insulation in our build. We have 12" thick rolled attic insulation fully wrapped in vapor barrier under the floor extension.
  23. 1 point
    BSUPC

    LED Headlights

    The camera does not do these lights justice. Have yet to see a camera that shows the true awesomeness of headlights period. But here is a short video from my dash cam with the LED's. https://youtu.be/nsfaDjwIxEk
  24. 1 point
    Ccrew

    Middle row stuck, down

    Mine's done it. Knee down to depress the seat bottom then pull the latch. It's engaged, but not fully in at the floor at the moment if it's like mine. My 98b wife showed me the trick when I got frustrated.
  25. 1 point
    azdamay

    Tuning the TC

    Check with FSWerks. He asked once about making tuning available to us on here, and there wasn't really any interest. http://www.fswerks.com/ There is a member on here who turbocharged their TC.
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