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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Here's the tension rod we used. I can't remember the dimensions exactly and my sketches and notes are at home. I know it's about 46.5" wide and I'm 6'3" tall and can lay down completely in the fully-extended platform. I'll get exact dimensions tonight and update the post. I might even include my sketches, too. That was the goal! We ended up taking the third-row seats out semi-permanently. We kept them folded down since we bought the van anyway and the extra cargo is nice. We are keeping them so we can put them back if we need the human cargo space, but that's highly unlikely for us. The bottom line is that we wanted to keep the full passenger functionality while being able to use it as a mini-camper, too. Nothing is holding the reflectix except for the second-row windows (sometimes). I cut the pieces to a size that would slot into the window and fit snug. When we have the windows open and the tops of the second-row reflectix folded down for ventilation, they don't stay, so I keep four shims to hold the front and have some small velcro strips to hold the back. This last weekend, we camped with our dogs and the reflectix stayed in the whole time without a problem. I'll have another update with the dog adaptations that I built/am building when they're finished, but here's a preview of a second-row removed platform so our pups have a place to be that's safe for their paws while we travel:
  2. 2 points

    ABS light on

    Thanks for your reply GBL, I can confirm that there was nothing wrong with that replacement bearing i put in as I got to eye ball it today when i pulled the hub carrier out... again! So, the whole guts of the problem was that worn drive flange due to one half of the original worn out bearing spinning on it and chewing away the metal. For those that dont know, these bearings are a double row bearing and the inner race is split in two for some reason with and outter half and an inner. So when I went to replace that original worn out bearing a couple of months ago I discovered the inner half of the bearing surface of the drive flange was worn and under size. Obviously the correct thing to do then would have been to replace the bearing AND the drive flange. But I cant get parts for this van here off the shelf, they have to come from the UK which takes a week and I was under the pump to get the van on the road to go racing in the North island. So I did a bodgy job and applied bearing retainer to one half of the new bearing inner race that was going to locate on the worn part of the drive flange. Wrong! It may have got me on the road but it was the source of the ABS light coming on. The ABS reluctor ring is attached to the inner race of the bearing so that it turns the with drive flange and creates the signal. But half of my inner race was not turning fully because the bearing retainer fix did not work and was just catching enough to spin the reluctor ring erratically creating a dud signal. So after 5 hrs at the workshop today re-doing the whole job and fitting a new drive flange I got to take it for a test drive and the light is off - Yahoo! Result. So pleased, it had been driving me nuts. As soon as I got the hub carrier off the van today and spun the drive flange I could see exactly what had gone wrong. You never stop learning eh. Thanks for listening to my saga those that did.
  3. 2 points
    Here are some action shots: Here's the rear or our campsite on our shake-down trip last weekend. You can see that the easy-up fits over the top of the wagon. It also has attachable sides to give us a bit of standing privacy behind the van for things like changing, but they also work as a wind-break for cooking on windy days. This is how the van looks from the front, doors open, in full camping mode. I'll also post some photos of the platforms folded and stored; it's raining today, so they're safely stored in a dry place. The side legs of the rear platform fold under the platform (they're on piano hinges) so it can be sored relatively flat next to the front platform, legs removed. The front platform can also double as a table if the campsite doesn't have one. Currently, we're using sawhorses to support it, but I'd like to build some legs that use the same T-nut and bolt combination that the platform supports use. The next steps: Some minor modifications to the sleeping platform to increase stability. Specifically, a leg that goes the length of the front of the rear platform to help provide some stability to the side legs. Removing the third-row seats permanently. Installing an auxiliary battery, battery isolator, and Maxxair fan in the rear of the van for ventilation. Hope you enjoyed the post! I'm happy to answer whatever questions you may have!
  4. 1 point
    A couple of months ago, we bought a TC LWB wagon to replace an aging SUV. We test drove just about everything on the market and by a twist of fate, found a perfect TC wagon for sale, used. After much research, we discovered this post that became the inspiration for our build. Here are the requirements for our conversion: We must be able to use it for sleeping and storing all of our gear for various adventures. The bed platform needs to be easy to remove and store. The second-row seats need to remain usable while traveling. The second- and third-row seats can optionally be removed for additional storage space. The sleeping platform needs to be stable enough to be free-standing without anchoring to the van. Here are the photos of the current build: Straight-on rear view with the platform expanded, curtain rod in place, and side window coverings up. Close-up of the side window coverings. They're made with reflectix cut to fit in the windows, then covered on one side with a blackout curtain so they don't reflect through the window if hit by a light. We wanted to be able to stealth anywhere in a "sleep emergency" while traveling. The cab curtain is just a curved shower rod with blackout curtains hanging from it. There's a little bit of a gap at the top that allows in some daylight so you can tell when the sun has come up for the day. The cabin curtain covers enough space that you can't see into the sleeping compartment when walking by the van (unless you bend over or squat-walk past). This photo has the back doors open so any light from behind would be visible in the windshield. The cardboard box resting on the quarter panel contains the window deflectors that haven't been installed yet. This is the best shot of the curtain rod installation that I have. It just stays up on the A posts with a little help from the seatbelt adjustments (as a precaution so the rod doesn't fall on our heads while sleeping). Unlike the inspiration post, I didn't like the idea of supporting the weight of the fore-portion of the sleeping platform on the headrests of the front seats, so it's supported by two legs on the side and one on the center of the front. They're held in place with 1/4" hex bolts into T-nuts on the platform. There's a little bit of shaping and modification to be done on the legs still, but they work pretty well as-is. A majority of the weight is supported by the leg on the front of the platform, the side legs are primarily for stability and to help it stay in place. Here's a close-up of the leg assembly. The platform uses the same slotting mechanism to remain stationary and tight against the rear of the platform. This is what the platform looks like when it's removed and slid on top of the rear platform. The front leg works as a way to prevent it from sliding forward in the event of an accident if the second-row seats are folded down for some extra cargo space. Here's the rear view of the front platform resting on the top of the rear platform. You can also see the easy-up canopy and the curtain rod (on top of the canopy) on the left. On the right are the window coverings. This photo was taken inside the van just before tearing down the platform. It's pretty dark inside on a sunny day. (Continued in the next)
  5. 1 point
    The platform is 75 3/4" long and 46 1/2" wide fully extended. Collapsed, the back portion is 43" long and 46 1/2" wide.
  6. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    2014+ standard side mirrors

    This post shows how to remove the door panels
  7. 1 point

    2014+ standard side mirrors

    Size matters.
  8. 1 point
    The tool with adapters is definitely the way to go...i improvised with some Harley tools i have..applied pressure than a couple of turns..rinse and repeat until puck bottoms out.
  9. 1 point

    Now I can see

    LOL.....yes, the crooked backing parkers are the ones that do not know how to use mirrors. The positive side of backing into any situation at time of arrival is the driver has the most control of and a birds eye view of the whole situation before doing so. Whereas backing afterwards the driver is somewhat blind of whats around them with less control of the situation and with todays high speed drivers a situation can change less than a second. Backing at arrival is in all "defensive driving and truck/equipment driving safety classes". If it were up to me ALL drivers would have to watch a defensive driving video to get their drivers license renewed primarily for on road etiquette and safety........something that seems to have been lost and traded for saving time in todays go fast world.
  10. 1 point
    Beta Don

    Insurance Issues with personal use

    We truly live in different worlds. I've never seen a 'commercial zone' where I couldn't drive my passenger car, nor a street with signage saying 'Commercial Vehicles Only' - Quite the opposite, all I ever do see as far as restrictive signage on streets around here is 'No Trucks' Don
  11. 1 point

    Modify or Replace Driver's Seat?

    That was my mod. Was exactly what I wanted... to just raise the seat 2". I tried cushions and such by they really didn't work for me. I would be possible to mount the seat further back but not exactly using the method I used. The method I used simply places a 2" riser under each seat corner and the bolt that originally bolted the seat down has to be swapped for something 2" longer than the original. If you wanted to mount the seat further back you'd have to mount the riser bracket to the floor with one bolt, and mount the seat to the riser bracket with another bolt. Very doable... just different than the picture...
  12. 1 point
    Update..both rear calipers require clockwise plus pressure to bottom out. My tech advised after assy to depress brake pedal(eng off ok) and then pull up your park brake lever to reset the caliper parking brake internals with the new components.Your good to go if your wheels spin freelyđź‘Ť
  13. 1 point

    Exhaust Diameter Question

    Correct. It's the same 2.5L engine, although routing/placement logistics will be a bit different across platforms.
  14. 1 point

    2010 XLT Slammed

    For most of the cars out there, modifications are for aesthetics. As you know, from lifting Jeeps, half the lift kits on the market are for looks. Unless someone is willing to spend more on a performance suspension lift - people do body lifts and spacer lifts on trucks because they like the look of a lifted truck with big tires...... Never mind that the body lifts & spacers cause excessive stress on OEM suspensions and steering components, the trucks handle worse than OEM, are bad for the transmission, and the speedometers are off calibration. Most of those are simply bling for mall cruising. But that's the whole point. People want their cars to look a certain way. Be different. Stand out. Your van looks good! There's a thread about me driving a "bro truck". But as it turns out, my pickup isn't lifted high enough, or I don't have bling bling rims......my truck is not a "bro truck". I'm waiting for someone to build what we can call a "bro van". You've already lowered your van. Let's see if we can get someone to lift the van, add big wheels, and do whatever else to make it a "bro van".
  15. 1 point

    Exhaust Diameter Question

    Good eye there. I'll have to see for myself where I cut it what the actual diameter is.
  16. 1 point

    2010 XLT Slammed

    Paint is going on this weekend on Saturday. As for the roof, I haven’t noticed any drastic temp changes as the air is still ice cold from the AC. I did get a chance to clean her up a bit this past weekend. Here are some more pictures. If you would like to follow follow my IG handle, it’s @MFCOFFROAD . There’s more Jeep content on there as that’s my business, but sometimes post for the Slamsit. Also to note, was driving on the interstate this weekend, and it was incredible to see the amount of picture takers, high fivers and people admiring it. To be honest, you never see a slammed work van. You will see in the pics how the front lip needs a filler in the corner. Found a canard that will close this gap perfectly.
  17. 1 point
    If you can find the space for them, the biggest bang for your buck in 'house' batteries is a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series for 12 volts. They will provide about 200 amp hours and conservatively discharging them to 50% gives you 100 amp hours of 'usable' power - That would power your ice maker for several hours and would probably run your ventilation fan for a week or more. They do make AGM golf cart batteries which contain no liquid acid and are not vented, but they are expensive. You can mount them anywhere you can find a suitable nook though because you never have to check the water level in them. I've used golf cart batteries and other 6 volt batteries (primarily L-16's, which are 'double' golf cart sized) in sailboats for many years and they are an excellent power source for inverters when the engine isn't running. I have a 750 watt inverter in my TC which is powered off the engine battery, but I did replace the small starting battery with a larger AGM battery Don
  18. 1 point

    Now look what I had to print

    My printer is not but this piano is:
  19. 1 point

    Oil Change

    Every car forum needs to have a lengthy topic, which goes on forever, and often strays off topic. Can we trust the onboard oil change light? Is the algorithm sophisticated enough to truly know if I'm a regular driver, or if I am a severe duty driver? Who does their own oil change? What do you use? Who is allowing the dealer to do it? Anyone going to a "lube shop" like Oil Can Henry's, Jiffy Lube, Pep Boys, Oil Changers? Who is using only Motorcraft? Anyone like "boutique oil", K&N filters, and fancy magnets? Let's hear it all.
  20. 1 point
    The parking brake handle sticks up quite a bit. Plus there are the brackets for the center console but you could remove them. The airbag computer and associated wiring are all under the console as well. The floor is not flat like it is in most FWD cars either.
  21. 1 point


    Surfing ? People at our age don't surf , very grateful that i can still walk .
  22. 1 point

    Different Cargo Dimensions?

    ** Not seeing anything for the older TCs at the links provided. I had the roof bumped up on a 2011 with good results.The new top adds about a foot, and height was around 54" without. Few other mods so far on what's still a work in progress. I was gonna get fancy with steps and such (notice the step bumper on the rear doors, but decided to go with a portable for the side door. Not much weight, 350 pound capacity, sturdy with no wobble, and just pick it up and toss it inside when not in use. The two stepper is perfect for splitting the height up to the cargo floor. I'll be adding a couple grips once I get the "kitchen" and storage unit installed. Six foot tall, so I still have to hunch over a bit, but I can actually walk into the thing now. Mine came with a two piece cargo wall, so I just removed the section behind the drivers seat so I'll be able to fold that forward for a bit more sleeping room. Left the passenger side cargo wall in place as it's handy for the already mounted inverter and such. Total length from the rear doors to the back of the drivers seat set all the way back is around 70 inches. Width is four feet between the wheel wells, and about 57" wall to wall. Yes, you DO need to get creative when setting it up, but there's a lot of different options, and lots of ideas from other folk who've converted them over the years. My plan is to just use it for a weekend solo camper, so it should work fine, and I figure it'd be good for a couple if you're extremely friendly.
  23. 1 point

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!
  24. 1 point

    Micro Camper Conversion 2015 LWB XL

    Phase 3: Upholstery and Doors Here's the third album of progress on the Transit Connect Camper. It might not look like much, but the functional refinements make a huge difference! The photo included in this post is a couple buddies having some cold drinks under the awning after a mountain bike ride. I took the van to Kentucky for it's maiden voyage in June and the trip went really well. The only piece that was super annoying was having to lift the seat in the back to access the large storage area under the "couch". I didn't expect for it to be as big of a deal as it was. I added a couple doors to make accessing the storage area easier. The bed was one of the best parts of the van, it's just barely narrower than a full bed and is full length. The Ikea mattress proved to be much more comfy than I had expected! The cooking drawer also proved to be as functional as I could have hoped. Having the 7 gallons of water in the van was great, since hiking in 90 degree weather left me dusty and thirsty. I also added the ARB awning, which is probably my favorite piece of the build so far especially since I'm a ginger and have trouble being out in the sun. Phase 3 Photos Here's a photo with the "couch" without the doors on the bench. In order to access the storage area you had to lift up the seat. During my first multi-day trip with the van, I found that this was way more of a pain than I had expected it to be, especially when having to do things like change or cook where you have to enter the storage area many times in a row. Also, even with the current set up, we can still fit two bikes inside the van without putting them on the cushions. I added 3 doors to give easier access. Cutting huge holes in the bench was a little nerve-racking, but it is so much better than constantly lifting the bench top. The cabinets are sized so that our folding chairs and table can fit in the back portion of the cabinet. Now we'll be able to slide them in and out of the back door. The bed folded down. The entire back of the van becomes the bed, which is about 2 inches narrower than a full size bed and full length. This is before adding the cabinet doors, which will allow access to the under-bed storage that wasn't possible before when the bed was folded down. Bonus cooking set-up photo.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks to you both for your replies - I like the idea of having that extra 6" clearance, so I'd probably just default to removing both rows and telling everyone I can't give more than one person a ride at a time...