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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    G B L

    ABS light on

    The inner grease shield on the bearing is plastic so it lets the tone ring work. I the bearing is reversed the steel Grease shield would block the signal.
  2. 1 point
    All, As an Android Auto fanatic, I have been trying to determine where to put the phone when plugged into USB... putting it into the storage bin didn’t work... using the cup holders was a bit of a waste... I found the answer... at least for me... Between the emergency brake and cup holder there is a seam in the plastic. I took an used gift card an pushed it into the seam. This creates a narrow slot that doesn’t next to the cup holders The gift card went it a bit tough but I tested my idea with a thinner card first.. regards Dogbert62
  3. 1 point
    davidparker

    Gen 2 Steelies

    I haven't like the hubcaps on my 2018 XLT, since the day I bought it. (They reminded me of snowflakes!). So after a little bit of research, I decide to go with center caps and possibly trim rings. Originally, I was going to go with black wheels, but it looked too much like a cop car. I still haven't decided on the trim rings. But I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
  4. 1 point
    1. I love how it drives and handles. 2. The seats and position. On ling drives, I can get out without lots of pain. 3. Fuel economy. 30+mpg at 65mph 24mpg in mixed driving 4. I love the storage shelf above my head. 5. The low load floor. Bonus. Twice, I rented an 8 foot trailer from Uhaul. My van towed it very well.
  5. 1 point
    Beta Don

    2018 TC Van LWB XLT First Impressions

    True - Most folks who live in northern climates (Michigan, New York, all of Canada, Norway & Sweden) who drive iMiEV's on a daily basis have installed tiny diesel burning water heaters in them. The iMiEV heating system (such as it is) uses a very ordinary heater core from the ICE version of the car with a 5 Kw heater to warm the water and then the fan blows air through the heater core just like in almost every ICE car. Using that 5 Kw heating element to heat the water severely reduces the cars overall range. If it's really cold out, you may lose 1/3rd or more of the cars roughly 65 mile range just heating the cabin Fortunately, since it's using hot water to heat and defrost the car, you can very easily heat the water using other means. The little diesel heaters (smaller than a shoe box) will give you a very warm car for a week or so using about a quart of diesel fuel - These are a very popular mod for iMiEV drivers in cold climates The air conditioning system on the other hand is very efficient. We lose 10% or less of the cars range staying comfortable on 95 degree South Mississippi days. In addition to our TC which very seldom gets driven, we have a 2017 Chevy Volt for longer trips, but about 85 to 90% of the miles we've driven over the past 7 years have been in our two iMiEV's. They are so good at what they do that there's not much need for any other vehicle, day to day . . . . unless you need to tow something or take a long trip out of town, which is why we're hanging onto the TC Don
  6. 1 point
    Fifty150

    2015 TC transmission fluid change

    Here is a video. Different car. Same transmission. Same process.
  7. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    2016 TC Cargo Aftermarket Sound System

    This explains how to remove the door please panels. These tools are invaluable. https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3KNOVEW4AJFYE&keywords=door+panel+removal+tool+kit&qid=1553878200&s=gateway&sprefix=door+pan&sr=8-3
  8. 1 point
    i86hotdogs

    2016 TC Cargo Aftermarket Sound System

    WOOO that looks way out of my skill level. But good to know its a possibility! I may have to reach out to shops to get this done. Seems like it will cost the same whether I buy a new head unit and install kit, or take it to a shop and have them install into the stock unit. Decisions decisions...
  9. 1 point
    I've looked at ETIS a couple times after successfully getting my approach lights disabled (dark mode), and it still shows the original build number for my BCM. It seems to me like ETIS is not a reliable way to verify that BCM has been updated. If you have the scan tool and software, give it a shot yourself before wasting more time with dealers, IMO. Disable the setting (called Approach Lights in FORScan) and save the changes, etc, then verify that the lights stay off. If they don't, change the setting back to enabled and bring it to the next dealer - but, if the BCM actually is updated, it should work for you.
  10. 1 point
    It all depends on what kind of light bar you're talking about, and what that particular unit's mounting hardware looks like. If you don't drill holes, then how are you going to run the wiring? You can consider using a light bar with magnets, which is offered by ECCO and other sellers. ECCO BLAZE II VACUUM-MAG 15\" AMBER ROTATING MINI LIGHTBAR - 5135A-VM For permanent installation, you will need to drill holes. If you intend to use the predrilled holes under the plastic caps, then you will need to spec a light bar with mounting brackets which measure the exact same distance. Drill the holes. It's your best option. Silicone, rubber washers, foam rubber seal kits......the light bar itself should include some sort of rubberized mounting base for waterproofing and vibrations since it is designed to be roof mounted. Wiring is not all that hard either. A lot of options there also.
  11. 1 point
    Bill Jackson

    CARGO VAN JUMP SEAT

    Wow! Never in my life have I had a vehicle that anyone asked for a photo. I love the TC van and I enjoy spending time improving on it. Well here goes. I really like the polished look of the install done at the top of this string. Mine is still just assembled and not yet covered and finished. As I said I got a jumper seat from a new F250 and after many fails decided on rails two feet apart using super-strut and their fasteners. On the Gen1TC you need to be very careful before drilling/screwing into the floor - the passenger side is all gas tank from behind the rear seat footwells to the rear axle. I was able to attach the rail at front and back under the false floor up front and through the floor in the back. Just crawl under there and pick your locations carefully. The seat I chose was a bit narrow - my back seat passenger would slide back and forth on the vinyl. So I built a small frame for armrests and extra side cushion...choose the widest seat you can find. With just a few turns of a wrench I can loosen this seat to move, remove or turn it around. Then I can torque it down tight for a passenger - when torqued you rock the whole van if you do a push test on the seat. Exactly what you want. Please post comments/questions/suggestions for improvements. Thanks to Fifty150 for asking.
  12. 1 point
    Bill Jackson

    Floor liner ideas 2012 TC

    I just went to the overstock store - Ollies Discount - and bought sixteen commercial two-by-two rubber backed carpet squares. They fit perfectly on the 4ft by 6ft floor of the TC with no cutting and I can just flip them from carpet to rubber when I want to carry something messy. I left the vinyl liner that came in the van in place. If one square get too soiled or even ruined by oil, liquids etc. I just throw it away and replace it; that's why I bought so many of them. They also provide great insulation for the floor in the winter time..
  13. 1 point
    I used an AudioControl DQ-61 to interface with the factory radio. It accepts speaker level inputs from the factory radio and converts the output to low level signals you can send to a 4 channel amp and subwoofers. The sky is the limit, after this processor. It was worth the effort and expense, in my opinion. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/
  14. 1 point
    Don Ridley

    ABS light on

    Get a scan tool so you can read the DTCs associated with the ABS light. The Forscan Lite app works well (about $10). You will also need a cheap elm 327 adapter w/bluetooth ( about $30, many work for the simple scanner functions, more expensive ones needed for programming changes). Do a YouTube search for info. Now you have a tool you can use for almost every repair on your TC. You will no longer have to buy a bunch of electrical parts to find out which one is bad. If you do all your own maintenance and troubleshooting you will use the scan tool many times.
  15. 1 point
    PhotoAl

    What to look for in a used 2016

    I think this thread has been overloaded ..... :-)
  16. 1 point
    PhotoAl

    CARGO VAN JUMP SEAT

    LOL, cars are indeed getting better and safer all the time. Used to be you could buy some stupidly unsafe cars but today every car out there is reasonable safe and quite reliable. When airbags were first introduced I saw a study that drivers of cars with airbags felt safer and therefore took more chances and actually had worse crashes. I believe that trend has continued with many drivers feeling safe and therefore willing to take additional risks. Just because you do something dangerous every day and are not harmed by it does not make it any safer.
  17. 1 point
    tcconvert

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    Backed out of the garage three days ago into about 6" of snow, sitting on top of solid ice. (We have not been above freezing for more than two weeks) I stopped and closed the garage door and then attempted to move forward. NADA! My sad OEM Cont's, with 18,000 miles on them just sat there and spun on top of the ice layer. There wasn't enough tread to grip the snow and pull me up off the ice sheet. Only an extensive rocking session got me moving enough to get back into the garage. This caused me to take a good look at the tires, and I realized they had a lot more wear than I would have expected at 18,000 miles. Working at home means I am not forced to go out every day, and can usually wait for things to moderate a bit before I attempt to go anywhere, but the massive fail behavior of those sad Conti's drove me to the computer to research some new skins. I spent almost an entire work day looking for a good alternative to the OEM's. Along the way I brought up reviews of the OEMs that came stock on my 2016. The biggest complaint was the shocking early wear - some people showed extensive wear at only 10,000 miles! Then there were the sidewall bubbles and failures. Not good! I searched for a good all-season tire that would give me a bit more grip in modest conditions than I had at present with the Conti's (none!). I didn't want to have to drive around on snow tires in an area that typically has more dry weather than anything else. The road noise in these cans is bad enough as it is, and I value my 27 MPG average mileage. I ended up settling on a Goodyear all-weather tire that had stellar reviews for all conditions and got raves about their long wear. Unfortunately, as is all too common for TC owners - these babies did not come in the TC's stock size. I could have accepted a taller tire, but I didn't want to alter my speedo readings. Bummer. Further local searches in my area for what the few typical tire stores (Discount, Big-O, etc.) actually offered left me disappointed. I was going to have to pick from what was available and offered in the TC's size. I ended up at Discount Tire, reluctantly taking the suggestion to fit a set of Pirelli Cinturato Strada AS's (a model exclusive to Discount Tires). I Drove off in the 22 degree weather on my new, very unexciting-looking $500 tires for the trip home, expecting to not notice anything different. BIG SURPRISE! The Pirelli's had completely changed the feeling of my van. The steering was lighter. The wheels pointed quickly in the direction I wanted. The van had a much tighter and crisper feel all-around, and maybe equally as welcome was a much reduced level of road noise! This made me realize what crappy tires I had been driving on for the last two years! I have since driven them through some packed snow and over some ice. These things are not winter tires, In truth, they are performance tires, but they do provide a higher degree of grip than the Conti's, and I expect them to be able to get me through modest winter conditions just fine. The best thing is that I feel like I am driving a completely different vehicle! So, here you are guys and gals...Need new shoes? If your needs parallel mine, I think you will find a lot to like about these pirelli's. Check 'em out.
  18. 1 point
    Mike Chell

    Trailer

    Nice! Paint a driver's window with a face in it, and people next to you on the road will swear you're being tailgated.
  19. 1 point
    mrtn

    Isn't this the cutest van

    https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/royal-mails-new-electric-delivery-van-just-cutest
  20. 1 point
    mrtn

    Van wrapping fails, again

    Some of it are already well known bloopers, updated: https://www.sadanduseless.com/2018/01/car-ad-failures/ (this here is Finnish, clearly meant to be "REKKAPESU" (truck wash).
  21. 1 point
    Here's how I added a USB power port to the overhead shelf on my 2015 TC LWB Wagon. I'll break the posts and pictures up for easier reading. I hate dangling wires so I wanted an overhead power supply for my dash cam. Rather than add yet another cigarette lighter socket for the plug in adapters that come with these type of accessories, I decided to go with a USB power port instead since they almost always use a 5v mini or micro USB plug anyway. Far more flexibility in cabling this way also instead of relying on what the manufacturer decides to supply. The First step was to remove the overhead shelf. There are four screws on each side, the two at each end of the handholds are under the covers, the other two in each side are readily visible once the visor is flipped down. As it turns out, I likely could have skipped this step since the riser piece in the middle where I wanted the power port mounted has nothing connected to it and the release tabs are all accessible with the shelf installed.
  22. 1 point
    Nevermind the build. Awesome beard, man.
  23. 1 point
    Mita

    2005 transit connect won't crank?

    UPDATE ! I thought it would be good to post the latest for all interested parties. Been trying to juggle looking at the van around work hence the slow update. I re installed the PCM this morning. I then cleaned up several grounds that were awful. Confident this was my issue I put it all back together, turned the key and ..... NOTHING!! :( So I tried each sensor by unplugging individually but again no joy. So next I decided to have a proper look inside and underneath the engine fuse box. I noticed one of the cables by the moulded plug had a green powder on it. Knowing copper turns green when it oxidises gave me new hope. On closer inspection the cable was split and it was just the insulation holding it there. I traced the cable back to the fuse board (it was black and orange) and would you believe it was for the power up relay (R8) . Unfortunately the cable broke right at the moulded plug. So I cut back the loom slightly and crimped a plug in to the cable. I then ran a new cable from there in to the fuseboard and cut the black and orange cable from the relay. I then crimped in a plug there and connected. So effectively I've by passed the moulded plug and made my own . Put it all back together and it's started! Hopefully this thread will prove useful in the future for others. Many thanks for all the help from everyone who posted .
  24. 1 point
    JJ Honeycutt

    Aftermarket Speaker question

    Thank you for the advice. Sorry if I missed the threads about this... I swear I did plenty of searches. Anyhow, I finally was able to figure out the mounting bracket that Crutchfield gave me with my 6.5" Rockfords and I decided to clip the harness (even though Metra emailed me the correct item# 72-5602). Also, I added some dynamat to the door but I read that only covering 25-40% of the inside of your door gives you the best results. Not sure what the reasoning is behind that. But I put about a piece above the door brace and one below. I watched plenty of soldering videos and I think I am ready to go. I'll give it a shot today. Thanks again.
  25. 1 point
    mustang

    OEM Trailer Hitch - Gen 2 TC

    the factory hitch is a class II and is 2 inch receiver and when ordered from the factory comes with electronic anti sway control .
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