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sKiZo

T.C. Member
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sKiZo last won the day on September 20

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About sKiZo

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  • Region
    U.S. Great Lakes
  • My. T.C.'s Year
    2011

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  1. sKiZo

    Isn't this the cutest van

    Almost bought one of these when I was looking for a van to convert. Good condition, good price. Missed it by ... that ... much. One I was looking at even was an automatik!
  2. sKiZo

    Installing an RV roof vent/fan

    Same as the gen one's then. No need to cut the front support as I don't need the extra headroom over the front seats, and it makes a nice reinforcement for a cargo area between the original roof and topper for light duty storage like blankets and such.
  3. sKiZo

    Installing an RV roof vent/fan

    Mine need a 5x8 foot hole if I remember right ... ;-} ... and ya ... that is a MaxxAir fan, and measures 14x14. One word of caution - put the remote in a safe place as the built in control panel sucks ... not a bad idea to add the batteries for that to your annual list of things to do. PS - if the type two's are anything like my 2011, there's only one support rib between the front and rear doors. You can see where mine was cut out for the pop top.
  4. sKiZo

    Driver's Side Rear Door Ajar

    If this started after the recall work, then the hinges obviously weren't "replaced properly". Take it back to the dealer and tell them to RTFM before trying again.
  5. I know mine was ... (Stress the "was") ;-} PS - excuse my dust. Work in progress!
  6. Can't say for sure what all's getting measured where, as I didn't do the work, but mine are a flush fit both in and out, and the invoice reads 1" trim ring for all of em. Here's an inside pic of the barn door installation. If you use the same sizes I did, the part numbers are TR16/14 and TR21/14. There's a thin bead of sealant both in and out to waterproof the seams. Main thing is to make sure the windows are oriented correctly with the weep holes down so all the channels drain properly. PS - haven't done it yet, but plan here is to go with standard 1/2" dense insulation butted up to the window frames with a bit of sealant and "T" moulding to make it purty. No rush on that as I don't do a lot of cold weather camping anymore and the TC has a surprisingly good heater anyway. Then again, I may just go with a couple thick coats of texture paint and leave it at that.
  7. sKiZo

    Different Cargo Dimensions?

    I do believe it looks better than the standard super tall, and I'm happy with it. The mods kinda sorta stalled as I ended up back in hospital for a while. Here's the inside just after the install. Most any "pro" I talked to hemmed and hawwed about liability cutting the hole, but there's only one structural support that got cut, and the topper is built tough, so I'm not worried. The guy who did the work said it's probably stronger than stock anyway. Plan is to add recessed light, a couple rear speakers, and some net storage in the space between old and new roofs. ... and here's one from the front ... ... and as it sits today. No progress on the interior, but I got all the stuff, so high hopes there. It's still a fun ride.
  8. Something like this won't work? If there isn't room in the box, I'd just go with another box so you're ready for any extras as time goes on. Plan here is to add add an aux connector block similar to what I use on my motorcycles ...
  9. I made my own, using a standard swing down bike rack and a dual hitch extension I got from UHaul. No extra parts required - just had to get a bit creative, rearranging the mounting plates to fit the extension. http://www.brainfartz.com/images/ranger/bike-rack-(4).jpg (Board won't let me post images direct any more. Silly new HTTPS rules I expect.) Anyway - this allows me to haul a couple bikes AND tow a small trailer at the same time. Works nice with the TC. Pull the pin to let the bikes drop to the ground, and it even let me open the tail gate on my ranger. Nice feature is the extension comes off easily with the rack, allowing me to use a standard hitch for hauling a utility trailer or whatever.
  10. 2011 TC here, and only real rust I've seen is around the hold downs and mounts on the cargo floor, and the rear bumper bottom panel. Just some pitting and chips on the main body rails underneath. Probably wouldn't hurt to get those blasted and rustproofed anyway. In any case, it's all cosmetic here.
  11. sKiZo

    What is this object?

    If you can test the rack, do so. Not exactly cheap to buy new - Use it or sell it. There's a few different brands out there, so best bet would be to find a mfg sticker and do some digging for how to wire up the controller if that came with the unit - maybe some little black box you've been scratching your head over? That said, most of the power units are just added on to the basic unit, so the rack should work fine without the controller.
  12. sKiZo

    What is this object?

    Remote motor control for a ladder rack ...
  13. sKiZo

    Wet floor

    Door seals? Dry it off then go around each door with a pressure washer. If you have any leaks there, give the seals a good rubdown with Sil Glide. That softens the rubber and lubes it a bit so it conforms better to the frame. I swear by the stuff for stopping the frameless windows of my Aurora from whistling.
  14. Something that helped me in cutting panels was to rough cut the cardboard to the general shape I needed, then tape narrow strips to the edges as needed to fill any gaps. Ended up with a right tight fit in all the right places. Obviously still a work in progress, but no complaints so far ... PS ... the metal bits of the kitchen area are recycled from the commercial shelving that was in the van when I got it. Waste not, want not, and less crap to throw out or trip over, right?
  15. Good question and one that hadn't occurred to me as insulation isn't that big a priority for me. Even with the cargo area open in Michigan winters, the stock heater keeps up fine. Just camping overnites and weekends, so even a smallish vented propane heater should take the edge off for the few times I'd be just sitting around. Thing is, you DO need to get a good tight seal on the outer door skin, and not sure a thicker ring would do what you want. Best bet would be to contact the store and ask - I figure there's non-structural beauty rings made just for dressing the edges. Be sure to post back with your results ...
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