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sKiZo last won the day on July 20

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About sKiZo

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  1. 2011 TC here, and only real rust I've seen is around the hold downs and mounts on the cargo floor, and the rear bumper bottom panel. Just some pitting and chips on the main body rails underneath. Probably wouldn't hurt to get those blasted and rustproofed anyway. In any case, it's all cosmetic here.
  2. sKiZo

    What is this object?

    If you can test the rack, do so. Not exactly cheap to buy new - Use it or sell it. There's a few different brands out there, so best bet would be to find a mfg sticker and do some digging for how to wire up the controller if that came with the unit - maybe some little black box you've been scratching your head over? That said, most of the power units are just added on to the basic unit, so the rack should work fine without the controller.
  3. sKiZo

    What is this object?

    Remote motor control for a ladder rack ...
  4. sKiZo

    Wet floor

    Door seals? Dry it off then go around each door with a pressure washer. If you have any leaks there, give the seals a good rubdown with Sil Glide. That softens the rubber and lubes it a bit so it conforms better to the frame. I swear by the stuff for stopping the frameless windows of my Aurora from whistling.
  5. Something that helped me in cutting panels was to rough cut the cardboard to the general shape I needed, then tape narrow strips to the edges as needed to fill any gaps. Ended up with a right tight fit in all the right places. Obviously still a work in progress, but no complaints so far ... PS ... the metal bits of the kitchen area are recycled from the commercial shelving that was in the van when I got it. Waste not, want not, and less crap to throw out or trip over, right?
  6. Good question and one that hadn't occurred to me as insulation isn't that big a priority for me. Even with the cargo area open in Michigan winters, the stock heater keeps up fine. Just camping overnites and weekends, so even a smallish vented propane heater should take the edge off for the few times I'd be just sitting around. Thing is, you DO need to get a good tight seal on the outer door skin, and not sure a thicker ring would do what you want. Best bet would be to contact the store and ask - I figure there's non-structural beauty rings made just for dressing the edges. Be sure to post back with your results ...
  7. Note to self ... no soup cans or half full coolers in the back. ;-} Besides - pretty sure my foil hat will protect me!
  8. PLAN B: I used a net tail gate thingie to keep groceries in the back of the bed when shopping. I added lightweight metal rods top and bottom with zip ties, and the gate just strapped into a couple brackets on the side. Just pop the straps and roll it up when not in use. You could double the height just using two of the gates, and they're super strong, and not too expensive.
  9. sKiZo

    Shelter In Place

    Double check availability. I've seen a lot of the big box stores listing in stock, then you click thru to check your local store for pickup, and you'll see some crapola about 0 of 1400 in stock or some such nonsense, followed by a "not available on web" message.
  10. Here's what's left of mine ... I left the passenger side (minus the upper grate) mostly because it's a convenient place for the inverter and other electricals. Also, it clears the bed when the couch gets folded out and gives me a few more inches to stretch. And ya, I've heard the gloom 'n doom yer gonna die thing from stuff flying out the back already. I rate that pretty low on my list of things to worry about. Lot depends I suppose on what you do with the vehicle - mine's going for wheel chair access, overnight camping, local hardware runs ...
  11. Don't forget, you'll still need to do butyl rubber tape or some such on all the seams to allow for expansion/contraction. Smaller sections with more seams should actually work better in most cases, and be a whole lot easier to manage in the long run.
  12. Just fershitzengiggles ... would 1/4" luan do the job? Stuff's cheap and machines nice. That's my go to for most anything like that. Don't forget to seal both sides ...
  13. With that wide a gap between the rails, I'd think about adding a couple pieces of angle iron front to back to keep lumber from sagging in the middle. That 7.5" will dissaspear fast if that happens. An old bed frame is handy for that sort of thing.
  14. Was just reading Terry Pratchett's thoughts about pi the other day ... Mail-sorting engine, the Post Office, Ankh-Morpork. Originally designed as yet another organ (musical instrument). Acquired by Postmaster General Cowerby. In the centre of this machine is one wheel that Johnson, for the sake of tidiness, had designed to have a pi (circumference to diameter ratio) of exactly 3, not 3.14-mumble-mumble-and-a-bit. In order for pi to be exactly 3, the universe has been changed. The machine therefore taps through many layers of the space-time continuum. Mail came out of the sorting machine that wasn't put into it by the human hands of the postal workers. Mail from next week, mail from 50 years in the future, mail that could have been, mail from alternative universes, mail that people swore they posted but really hadn't, mountains of such mail. Finally, Chief Postal Inspector Rumbelow beat up the machine so that it stopped whirring. No longer sorting any mail, the machine still sports an annoying blue glow, and is capable of Considerably Dis-Organizing objects placed above its centre. This makes one of the rooms in the cellars, originally the mail-sorting room, a dangerous place to be. From Going Postal ...
  15. Maybe enough room behind the Ford emblem on the hood to stash a key? Seems there would be, and just velcro it in place. Might have to cut out some internal reinforcement.