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Beta Don

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Beta Don last won the day on January 20

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About Beta Don

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    U.S. Mississippi Valley
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  1. Beta Don

    Gen 2 hangs in 2nd gear too long

    How many miles on your 2014? Did you buy it new? If you don't know it's maintenance history and you've got 50K on it or more I would be seriously thinking about changing the trans fluid - Unless you have a professional flush it for you, it's not easy to get a 100% exchange (well, it's actually impossible to get a 100% exchange) just by draining it and refilling it because more of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter than is available in the transmission to drain, but . . . . if you buy 12 or 14 quarts and drain it 3 or 4 times it is possible to get better than a 90% change to all new fluid. These 6F35 gearboxes are hard on their fluid and if you're at all hard on the vehicle (the way you use it and drive it) then there are plenty of owners who have had to have transmissions rebuilt long before 100K miles. I did a 4 part drain and refill on my 2014's trans at 25K and I'm going to do it every 25K and hopefully save myself $3K or so by not needing to have the trans rebuilt Don
  2. Several of us who converted to the Group 48 size and AGM format did so because we are running things off the battery and not just using it to start the engine, so we wanted more power, more reserve capacity and less self discharge I carry a pair of full sized Segway I2's in the back and I wanted to be able to charge them using an inverter while driving and I didn't want to have to shut down the inverter when I stop for gas , or lunch, or shopping along the way. I installed a 750 watt inverter in the back of the van fed by a #4 wire and a 70 amp fuse, powered off the battery. Others are running refrigerators and other things, usually with inverters, so stuffing the most reserve amp hours into the stock battery box was a good idea . . . . and it has worked well for all of us Don
  3. My point was . . . . forums are all about sharing solutions to problems and if the vehicle has been around for awhile, most problems have been addressed several times so you won't be making the same mistakes others have already made in the past The Sam's Club battery is taller, but there is a lower space in the center of the battery which allows you to use the stock hold down clamp with no problem. The Interstate battery must be designed differently . . . . good to know No Sam's Club? Can't be THAT far away - When I needed AGM 6 volt Golf Cart batteries for my boat, they were not stocked in any Sam's Club in Mississippi, but I found them at a store in Alabama. Road trip! - I drove past 2 or 3 other Sam's Clubs to get to the one with the batteries I needed 😋
  4. Lots of variables to consider - Gen1 or Gen2 TC? What seat are you trying to install? One from a same generation TC van . . . . or a generic seat you picked up from a van in a wrecking yard? How are you planning to mount the seat belts? To the seat, or to the van floor? Unless you did some custom welding, I think it would be pretty hard to do a 'legal' installation - One which wouldn't get you in a ton of trouble if someone was severely injured or killed in an accident There are so many variables that most installations will be 'custom' with you coming up with solutions to the various problems on the fly - I really doubt you'll find anyone with pictures of the same van you have, custom mounting the same seat you've bought . . . . but you never know - This is the place to ask and maybe you'll get lucky! 😊 Don
  5. You should read here first and then post later - Several good threads here on Gen2 battery replacement and better batteries to use than the stock, overpriced and under performing battery A Sam's Club Duracell AGM size 48 (H6) is a perfect fit with no modifications necessary and the stock hold downs fit correctly. You then have a bigger, more powerful, AGM battery which will outlast the stock battery 3 to 1 Don
  6. Beta Don

    Hello Guys

    There is a forum for full size Transit owners - I mistakenly went there trying to find this forum when we first bought our van Don
  7. Beta Don

    Cargo Cover

    I bought one of these from my local Ford dealer for $165 shortly after I bought my 2014 SWB van - I returned it to them less than a week later. The red circle you see in the photos is to remind you not to sit anything on top of it, because it's really flimsy! I had the factory cargo covers for 2 of my Mazda wagons and I *assumed* the Ford one would be similar, but they're not - You could sit a small child on the Mazda covers and not bend anything - Don't try more than 4 or 5 pounds on the Ford cover Don
  8. I've just never wanted something so specific that I felt the need to special order it new. I much prefer to find 2, 3 or 4 year old really low miles vehicles and save $10K or so rather than pay a fortune for the privilege of ordering something brand new When we bought our TC, I wanted the short wheelbase and had to hunt quite awhile to find the 'right' one, but we got a 2014 in 2017 with only 12,000 miles on it and we saved $12K . . . . a dollar a mile! It was at a dealer in Georgia, 350 miles away. Turned out, we were the first owners too! The dealer had let it sit on his lot unsold for more than a year and then he titled it and used it as a dealer loaner vehicle for about 18 months and then we bought it When we bought our 2017 Chevy Volt, I got way more 'specific' than I've ever done in the past. I wanted the White Pearl paint with the black & brandy interior. It had to be fully equipped with every option so I could make sure it had Adaptive Cruise Control. I eventually found that exact one owner car with 20K on it and bought it for $16K off the sticker. That one was in Iowa, 1,100 miles away, so we flew up to pick it up and made a week long vacation out of bringing it home It'll definitely be a long time before I buy another brand new car again - I've only done it twice before. Once when I ordered a VW GTI while I was stationed in Germany and we picked it up when we arrived stateside and last time was when we bought our first EV, a 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEv and we got a $7.5K tax credit buying it new Don
  9. You do realize . . . . that was more than 6 years ago . . . . right? Don
  10. It's always best (cheapest) to buy any vehicle from the dealer who has it sitting on his lot and not asking another dealer to have it shipped to you - BOTH dealers will expect to make $$$ for their time and trouble. In your case, since you're looking for the hen's teeth of all TC's, both dealers will know you're desperate and expect to make a bunch of $$$ from you, because all three of you know how rare this particular vehicle is . . . . whereas, if you were to show up at the dealer who has the vehicle, asking about a Titanium TC and they show you the red one you really want, you could say "Red, huh? Don't you have it in a better color??" Then, you could probably make a deal on the red one that he's had sitting unsold on his lot for a month or two - He was thinking it might be very hard to sell, so he gives you a break, rather than you pointing out that he has the only red one in all the USA and you've got to have a RED one! Don
  11. Beta Don


    I agree - I'm 98% sure the damp, salty gear is the source of your problem . . . . and I doubt a 'paint warranty' would be honored for the inside of your van. Even if it was, their repair might be worse looking than what you have now Don
  12. Beta Don

    Oil Change Required

    For any synthetic worth a hoot, 5K is way too soon to be changing your oil - Way, WAY too soon! Ford and most synthetic manufacturers recommend 12K changes. I use Castrol Edge Extended Performance fully synthetic and Castrol says it is good for 20K changes I typically change at 10 to 12K on mine because I don't drive it that many miles each year . . . . without the oil change reminder recommending me to change it sooner. But . . . . if you don't reset the change reminder each and every time you do a change, then the change reminder is never going to give you good information . . . . it's eventually going to tell you to change it at some point, and that may end up being only 2 or 3K after your last change. Read the manual on how to reset it after you do a change, even though it has never gone off and told you a change was necessary. Reset the change reminder every single time, regardless . . . . especially if you intend to use it as recommended If yours was reset when a change was done and then you went 5K and changed it without resetting it and you got a change notice 4K later, it's actually telling you that you needed a change at 9K and not at 5K when you last did it . . . . or, more likely, you probably missed resetting it twice and what it's actually telling you is that it should be changed at 14K - Mine never says a change is needed before 12K . . . . but I reset it every time At any rate, 5K changes with fully synthetic oil is certainly a waste of time, money and natural resources. Google and read all about modern oil, modern engines and synthetic oil change mileage recommendations Don
  13. That's because Ford advertises it as 'Lifetime Fluid' which lasts the lifetime of the transmission . . . . . unfortunately, sometimes the transmission lifetime is only 75,000 miles Don
  14. Unless you drained and filled it 3+ times, you didn't really 'change' anything - Most of the trans fluid is trapped in the torque converter and there's no way to drain the torque converter on this model. I did four drain and refills when I changed my fluid. Even doing it that many times only gets you a 90%+ 'change' to new fluid. One drain and refill and you still have more old fluid in there than new "Not a difficult job at all?" That's not how I would describe a complete fluid exchange Don
  15. Beta Don

    TPMS question

    I'm trying to picture what sort of wheels those might be - I *thought* you could put a wheel sensor into just about *any* wheel. There are only three basic types of tire fill valves out there - The standard rubber 'snap in' valves, the high pressure snap in's and the high pressure metal clamp in's and there are sensor mounts to fit all 3, so no matter if your wheels are steel, some type of alloy or paper mache, if they utilize any one of the standard fill valves, there are sensors made which will fit them I too like the direct readout of individual pressures on my 2017 Volt, but the OEM system on my TC suits my needs just fine as it is. When i bought my set of Ford Focus alloys ro replace my stock steel wheels, the stock Ford snap in valves were still in the wheels, so transferring over the sensors took about 30 seconds each - Remove one screw from the stock wheel and install the sensor with that same screw into the 'new' alloys. The tire installer installed 4 new valves and viola!, my TPMS system still works as it always has Don