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Just got this information from the Service Manager where I purchased my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van: --------------------------------- SSM 46321 - 2014-2017 Transit Connect - Battery Drain Due to Frequent Door Openings and Approach Light Strategy Some 2014-2017 Transit Connect vehicles may exhibit a condition that causes the battery to discharge. If normal battery drain diagnosis leads to no issues, it may be caused by the approach lights illuminating every time the body control module (BCM) receives a lock/unlock signal or opening any door. If the door remains open, the lights will remain illuminated for up to 10 minutes. If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com. For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. Use causal part 14A068 and applicable labor operations in section 10 of the SLTS manual. APPLICABLE VEHICLES 2014 - 2017 CAR: HC V408 (EU) --------------------------------- The fix was done at no cost, under my warranty. Hope this helps!

I have a 2015 TC ecoboost SWB wagon. I started modifying as soon as I got home. This lit will help me remember it all. And maybe Ford will listen too. Of course there are those damn US regulations. 1. Removed the cross bars for gas milage. 2. Pulled the rear bench seat to storage > 100# lost 3. Installed removable rubber floor mats in the cargo area for dirt and sound deadening 4. Removed the intake muffler in front of the radiator, it makes it quiet but restricts airflow. With it gone I have a factory cold air intake. Probably standard in Europe...And this thing has a nice air filter box w/360 degree filter. 5. Stuffed 4" foam into all the rear quarter interior panels for sound deadening. Right thru the access panels. 6. Replaced all interior lights with LED's, 4 in all, I camp a lot and I don't like dead batteries. Pisses me off that the exterior lights stay on when the door is open. Maybe I can reprogram that, or more LEDs At this point I was ready to get adventurous... 7. Removed the rear interior door panels to find they were designed with 3/4" space for sound deadening but there was nothing there. I guess you have to get the Titanium for that. Mine is an XLT so I just stuffed 1" of fiberfill in there and closed it up. Wow what a difference! 8. Ok, now I know, I proceeded to remove the front door panels and rear hatch and stuff them full of foam or something...and now I drive a Titanium. I was thinking about getting the rear badge and sticking it on... 9. Got sticky rubber stair treads and installed them on the rear bumper for accessing the roof. Cut several pieces to fit perfectly, it looks factory. Where did that go Ford? 10. Tinted the front windows to 30% and put a tinted windshield visor down to the AS line that's Lemo black. The AC works much better now. 11. Where the rear seats mount there are two little 1/4" holes near the doors that actually go thru to the outside. I plugged them with sealant. It's quieter and it'll float longer now. 12. Got a cargo carrier for the receiver hitch, I can carry another box of gear without a loss of aerodynamics. Results: 1. You have to close the doors with a little more effort since the air seal is so tight, or crack a window. 2. She is quiet and comfortable at 100 MPH! 3. I have never gotten less than 26 MPG on a tank. I've gotten as high as 30 on a full tank. My miles to empty is up to 427 on a full tank. I have gotten 34.9 for 45 miles in tight fast moving traffic. I can reliably get 32 MPG if I drive 65 and baby it. Next Mods: 1. LED exterior lights 2. Remove a muffler...there is a resonator and a muffler. I hear removing the resonator doesn't make much difference, so maybe I'll remove the muffler and make it load!! I will get 35 MPG before I'm done. 3. Maybe a computer tuner, they have settings for MPG. And maybe I can reprogram those stupid lights... This van is everything I expected and It will only get better. I'll keep you posted..

Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.

Adding an audio amplifier, power inverter or other high current loads requires connecting heavy gauge cable directly to the battery. The Gen 2 TC’s battery is tucked under the front cowling and is enclosed in a covered box so making this connection difficult. Plus, having a big cable bolted to the battery with a big in-line fuse looks amateurish. There is a professional, safe and easy alternative. The front wall of the battery box holds the high current battery junction box (BJB). This is where all the power is distributed to other fuse blocks and modules in the TC. Remove the air filter housing. The BJB is attached to the front panel of the battery box. This panel lifts up and out to access the battery. Disconnect the (+) terminal and carefully pry open the BJB cover (5 tabs). You will have to cut some cable ties holding the cable on the front of the BJB. Here is the front of the BJB (air filter housing has been removed) This is the inside of the BJB. I have already added a cable on the bottom post of the unused slot on the right. The BJB has 10 circuits from 40A to 150A. The last slot on the right is used for glow plug power (60 amp) for a diesel motor. This slot will be available in all TCs in the United States. Connect your new power cable to the bottom terminal of this or any other open slot. Install the proper size MIDI style Littlefuse brand fuse. Attach with 5mm nylon locking insert nuts. I used #4 AWG cable and this fit with some trimming of the plastic housing. The #4 lug had to be shaved to fit the narrow slot. #4 AWG was overkill in my application. Remove the battery and battery box. Run the cable into the cab using the plastic square knock-out located on the firewall on the left (driver’s) side behind a perforated cutout in the padding/insulation. You can see the knock out under the master cylinder. I routed the cable under the center console. The console is easy to access by removing 4 screws. You do not need to remove any dash panels if you use an electrical fish tape or other stiff wire to pull the new cable under the short section of carpet and padding between the dash and console. The fish tape will poke out under the carpet near the accelerator pedal. Route the cable to your load. Plastic knock-out on the driver side firewall Important notes: Use the proper size and type of cable. I bought power cable designed for automotive audio amps. This is much different from cable used in homes and buildings (THHN for example). Automotive cable has many more strands of wire and is much more flexible…and expensive. Many of the cheaper offerings will be copper clad aluminum and the gauge may not be true. Use pure copper if you can afford it. My cable was sold by Kicker. What size cable? Note that the OEM cables in the BJB are #8 or #10 AWG but they are fused at 50 to 80A. This amperage does not comply with the NEC and does not need to. Do a Google search and you will find that you can safely use # 8 cable for automotive, 12 volt loads of 70 or 80A depending on the length of the run. The #4 AWG cable I used can handle well over 150A. If you are going to run large loads continuously, like power tools or large air compressors, you need to use an external generator. The TC is not a power plant and you should only connect large loads that are on intermittently, like a coffee maker or espresso machine. The standard alternator outputs 88 amps at 1800 rpm (150 amp max), so running the engine may not be enough power for large loads.

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/royal-mails-new-electric-delivery-van-just-cutest

I did this about 2 years ago and it has been working well. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/-21ydY_MM6A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> not sure if I was able to embed this video correctly but here is a direct link to the video also https://youtu.be/-21ydY_MM6A

I previously did an update at 100k and 150k and I'm happy to say the van is still humming along great. I still change the oil every 5k miles and get the transmission service every year. Just put on my 4th set of tires but otherwise its been very inexpensive to own. The front is definitely getting pretty ate up with rock chips which is to be expected with this many miles and the fact I drive 95% of the time on the highway. Lifetime average MPG is 23.8 but its been improving as I finally learned to just slow down haha! I'm pretty regularly 25-27 with some 28's sprinkled in there. Where I buy the fuel seems to make a big difference too. I had planned on keeping it to 200 and then doing something else but I'll try to get another year or two out of it unless things start going downhill quickly. I'm still on the original brakes and the interior is holding up nicely. Most people are very surprised how many miles are on it when they see it but I keep it really clean so it always looks good. It still drives very tight and the suspension isn't showing signs of needing replaced either. Windshields seem to be a consumable item on these and I'm due for another one unfortunately. Anyways, just wanted to give an up date and post up if you guys have any questions.

Well it took a while but pretty much finished. Has Fridge, shore power, sink, water tank and pump, 12 speed fan, sliding screen windows, house battery , custom pull out bed. ( Bed pulls out to 5’ 7” I’m 5”5) You can can access the fridge and battery from the passenger sliding door. Taken in it out and it is awesome !! So happy.

Hey folks, I got my complete guide to turning off approach lights written. It covers all the steps I followed to turn off the approach lights on my 2018 TC Wagon. I tried to be extremely comprehensive with the instructions so I hope it's useful for others. Feedback or more details appreciated.

I went to my local dealer today with the intent of making sure they can perform this SSM under my 3yr/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty and to give them a heads up if they want prepare with any downloads they need to perform to minimize the amount of time they will need my van in service. I gave the service advisor the attached doc below, he read it, and said they will do this under warranty if I'm having a battery issue. He gave me back the piece of paper, said this type of service is done by their 'electrical tech' and they will need the van for a few days, so make an appointment when I'm ready. Two days? Attitude aside, I'm glad they are willing to make this fix under warranty, I hope. Chapter two to follow. Stand by. SSM 46321 Dark mode.pdf

I complained about the entry illumination to my dealer, and expressed my concern that it would drain the battery on my 2017 TC XL Cargo Van, since it is being converted to a weekend camper. The service tech hooked up their Integrated Diagnostic System computer to the vehicle's On-board Diagnostic port and scrolled through the Body Control Module menus, but couldn't find any way to shorten or turn off the unwelcome 10-minute "Welcome Lighting." So, I spoke with the dealership's service director, who went online and looked through Ford's technical bulletins for customer complaints about battery drain caused by the long open-door lighting delay. Sure enough, Ford had come out with a firmware update for the TC's Body Control Module. Once my vehicle's module had been updated with the new firmware, the tech was able to access the menu to turn off the lighting. The software update and programming change was covered under my warranty. Now that I am finally in "Dark Mode" I am a happy camper. Moral of the story: Keep complaining until you get results. Let us know how you fare with your dealer.

Today I pulled out all the interior pieces in the cargo area of my 2015 Transit Connect cargo van including the floor extension. It was surprisingly easy. There is a lot of room under there. It has me rethinking some things.

Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change. The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench. ] This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in [attacjpg] ] Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid. Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts. Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. Have fun!

Phase 4: Windows, Insulation, and Vent Fan: The day I cut huge holes in my brand new car. So, this album brings you up to date on where I'm at as of last night. I spend almost the entire weekend installing 3 windows, a Fantastic Fan, and insulating body panels. We've got a trip coming up in October, so the goal was to make it a little more "livable" for the trip. Without windows in the back of the van, it got pretty stuffy in there with two of us. The windows and vent are from Vintage Technologies that sells parts for teardrop trailers. Cutting into the van was a little scary, but once everything was all put back together it was well worth the trouble. The windows make a huge difference! Since I had to make panels to help mount the windows, we also started insulating the ceiling and panels. It's one layer of self-adhesive duct insulation which a lot of people use as a cheaper alternative to Dynamat, and then a layer of Reflectix where space allowed. The next step is to start doing finish work and making things look neat. Phase 4 Photos The point of no return. The lines look a little sketchy in this shot, it took a couple tries with one of the corner to perfectly match the template. Holes Cut! The blue tape made marking the cuts much easier and kept the paint from getting scratched. Windows In Interior window shot. The windows open and have screens in them. Hole cut for side window. I didn't realize until I started cutting that the panels on the side are plastic rather than metal. Window #3 in! The angle of the body panels give a weird optical illusion in this shot. The window is flat against the van. I swear! Battens glued to the ceiling Frost King duct insulation on the ceiling Step 1: Self-adhesive duct insulation Step 2: A layer of Reflectix, glued in place Step 3: Wooden Panel Ceiling vent framed in. The Reflectix is glued in, the tape is just there to keep it in place as the glue dried. Ceiling vent installed with bead-board Hard at work installing Reflectix Bonus "Work Shop" Shot. This is where I've done all of the work so Far. Also, Jake the Dog. Put back together! Ceiling vent. Not crazy protrusive!

Engine off, key in pocket, any rear door open: Push the turn signal switch forward then back. Hear one chirp. This tuns off the outside lights until the next time the car has been locked. The dome lights will still stay on for ten minutes after each time a front door has been closed and opened.

Middle seats back up and front platform packed. We'll use the space inside the flatform (it's framed with 1x4s, so there's a bit of space in there). The platform is rigid, so I'm contemplating adding a set of longer folding legs and letting it double as a pull out table. The folded platform section can be stowed on top of either the front or back half of the rear plaform, so you can access either of the folding sections. One last shot to show that having the plaform in the van has no affect on the functionality of the center row of seats.

Still working out storage and a few other things on my weekend warrior build, but wanted to report that a cheap tri-fold queen sized mattress with a california king duvet cover around it work great. I wanted the duvet cover to be oversized so I can still fold the mattress up and put up the 2nd row seats when needed. The back two panels of the mattress needed to be trimmed, which I found a box saw made quick work of. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWDBZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GH2Y1V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have successfully converted my 2015 to a manual. I've been using it for work the past month and have put around 2k miles on it with no issues. If anyone is looking to start this project for themselves I'd be happy to answer any questions and share my experiences with it. I'm in the Tampa Bay area

Long time lurker. First time poster. Just a teaser shot here, but it’s very custom. The build is starting to come along, and have paint in the lineup beginning of August. A ton of work already went into it. I’ll try and grab some additional pictures tomorrow. Will look good with a satin while pearl paint. Pic for attention:

Well Ladies and Gents.... after getting tired of searching for info from over seas, and/or trying to order a GAZ coilover setup from the UK for my 2015 TrannyVan. After mucho research, parts cross referencing at Ford .... I've ALMOST nailed down the perfect setup... with slight modification of course. Still hunting for that TRUE bolt on rig that requires the LEAST amount of modification, which leads me to this: Was curious if you guys wanted a write up, considering I took TONS of pics and busted quite a few knuckles in the process. The picture upload format for this forum is...um...well... terrible to deal with, but if I get enough interest I'll definitely go through the trouble. Here's a few pics of the finished product attached below (with better shoot coming soon) - Hope you guys dig it EQUIPMENT: MEGAN RACING EZ STREET@ coild over setup 18x9 ROTIFORM VCE Monoblocks on 205/40's

just got my connect this last saturday, i am excited for it have a lot of good ideas for a tiny camper

Regarding FORD Safety Recall 18S20 – Shift Cable Bushing Replacement affecting 2013-2014 Ford Escape, & 2013-2016 Ford Fusion, this failure mode also appears on certain models of the Ford Transit Connect. In my case, I have a 2015 XLT that experienced this failure. The original factory-original bushing is white. The replacement bushing outlined in the recall below is orange. This is a standard Ford part used on "small" chassis Ford vehicles and is common amongst vehicles using this type of transmission shift linkage. The Ford part number for the REPLACEMENT bushing is: DG9Z-7K340-A and can be found at most ANY ford dealership. I paid $5.10USD for it, and ended-up buying two just to have the 2nd one around in case this is actually a recurring problem (or in case I dropped the first one down in the engine bay accidentally during installation!). BACKGROUND: Please note that when I searched for a recall SPECIFICALLY covering this particular failure mode on the Ford Transit Connect I could not find any references to one anywhere. However, a very smart parts guy at my local Ford dealership in Lake Orion, Michigan knew of the problem on the Focus and Escape and had a small box right on his counter full of these replacement bushings. This told me that it's a failure common problem (despite not being specifically referenced to the Transit connect). I suspect that the original plastic bushing was molded from a material not capable of withstanding the constant pressures of the daily shifting cycle. As such, it would seem that if Ford went to all the trouble if initiating a recall action on a number of vehicles with this problem, they wouldn't simply have released the exact same "replacement" bushing, but would have molded it from a more durable material in order to prevent a recurrence. This has been my experience with OEM safety recalls as an auto industry engineer since the OEM is legally responsible for demonstrating to NHTSA that their planned repair solution resolves the safety concern prior to deploying that solution into the field. As such, it is unlikely that NHTSA would have approved an OEM-proposed solution that utilized a bushing the same as the one that originally failed from the factory (common sense?). Incidentally, when replacement parts are produced in a different color, that is usually an indication that they are a different material so that technicians don't erroneously install the wrong replacement part when effecting the repair. Visual cues are important in repair circumstances and used broadly in the auto industry so that quick visual reference can be made when assessing the completion of a safety repair. Here is a link to some of the detail of the recall. REPLACEMENT/INSTALLATION: I knew as soon as I saw the replacement bushing that it was an exact replacement, and as you can see from the photos below it is. To complete the repair, I first snapped the replacement bushing onto the transmission shift lever, then pressed the shift cable onto it. As luck would have it, that was the opposite of the replacement instructions I later found online for the Focus and Escape. regardless, it snapped right in and securely retained the shift cable once installed. The repair took me about 5 minutes and was a bit of a tight squeeze when attempting to get my hands past other 'obstacles' in that area of the engine bay. it was a little challenging holding onto and orienting the replacement bushing when attempting to push my hands past the intake snorkel and fuse box! But, again, it only took 5 minutes total to complete the repair. I hope you find this information helpful. Ken Here are a few photos of the actual linkage and bushing:

3/4" plywood free span between angle iron mounted to side walls. When I got the plywood fresh and moist from Lowes, I cut the main piece the long way spanning and then set it in place with the better side down. I put on weights so it would dry deflected down. After dried, primed and painted I put it in with good side up now with a 1/4" crown. The brace for the foot board was made with bracing removed from the area under the floor. Head of the bed folded down for ease of loading groceries, etc. Full space for bins under bed. Foot of bed folds back to allow mid area fully open to carry dogs.

I was always afraid to make a mistake so I didn't want to use glue. I also didn't want to make new holes in the van. It took forever to make sure I only use the existing holes for rivnuts and still have the cedar planking ceiling I've been dreaming of. https://youtu.be/FeSpucwYLW0

I then slapped the mat back down and cut out the rubber around the hatch cutout. Dropped in the hatch, popped in the step trim, and screwed down my cargo tie downs. Finished product, thanks for looking at my creation, feel free to ask about anything I might have left out!

The file to too large (26MB) to post in the forum. Here is a link to my copy of the file (hopefully it works): https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqEP8g__L8wNoFd8hTTdIiE9pBok?e=KSXXV3

As some have noted, there is no switch to turn on all the interior lights on newer TCs. This modification will allow you to turn them on with a separate switch. Opening a door turns on all the lights, so I added a switch that activates the same circuit. You can easily turn on the lights and the van thinks you have opened the driver's door. It works well and the only hitch is you get a "door ajar" message on the message center. This is not a complete step by step but it covers the tricky parts. The most difficult thing will be removing the door panel without breaking any tabs or pins. You should have a panel removal tool (or tools). There are dozens on Amazon for under $20. You may also want to buy some spare clips for the door panels. Several are tough to reach even with the tool and you may break one .https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Panel-Retainer-Sealer-W713297-S300/dp/B00CWLL84C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489722168&sr=8-1&keywords=W713297-S300 Remove the plastic cover behind the door handle. It pulls straight out. Pry at the spot noted to avoid breaking any tabs. Remove the small panel behind the door latch Remove the door panel and unlatch the door handle Here is the wiring diagram. I used a pushbutton switch. This type of switch needs to be latching. You can use a rocker or toggle switch that has a normally closed terminal. The switch will be normally closed and open when the lights are turned on. The lights go off when the switch goes back to closed. I also used a lighted switch so I had to connect power for the light. The light is not necessary so only do it if you like the look. ***see diagram below*** Here is the power for the lighted switch. It is tied to the light for the door lock buttons. I used posi-lock connectors for this connection. The switch is wired to the door module. Pin 14 is cut and the switch is inserted. Here is the door module with the wire already cut. The wire had green paint on a black wire. Another view of the cut wiring I wired the switch using a modular pigtail that plugs in (for door panel removal in the future). These connections were soldered. The wire was dressed with Tesa cloth tape (I love this stuff). The Tesa tape prevents rattles and will not get gooey with age like some electrical tape. https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489723291&sr=8-1&keywords=tesa+tape The finished product. The switch light is always on just like the lights on the door switches. But I can't see it from the driver's seat (hence the uselessness of the light). You will get the alarm chime and message when you turn on the lights, but they work fine (just like opening a door while driving). Of course I insulated the door panel with theromozite and it gives the door a solid feel and dampens road noise. Insulating takes less than 1 hr per door and I highly recommend it. Use spay on adhesive to apply.

One last photo of the van build in action ?

I do have 2.3.34 test version. Function is located under IPC module, below is the download link. http://forscan.org/download/FORScanSetup2.3.34.test20200521.exe Important notes: 1. Please note this function can increase mileage, not decrease it. So if you enter wrong number that is bigger than have to be, you will not be able to return it back. So please be very careful. 2. Before run the change, please make sure FORScan show correct *current* mileage (it shows it when asks to enter new mileage).

@Fifty 150 Let's see. If you are sitting in your vehicle with the air on, the multi-speaker stereo blasting, driving an automatic, on cruise control,with the LCDs playing a movie etc., are you really driving? Or just another guy taking refuge from the wife. Sorry but I am 74 years old and can no longer do tent camping. What is the more likely scenario is I'm sitting around a campfire in a forested area watching the moon and the stars while enjoying a cold brew after I grilled a great steak over the campfire. Then when I can't stay awake anymore from all the fresh air, I crawl into my bed and watch the 10 PM news and fall asleep only to be wakened 6 hours later by the chirping birds. Can anyone else vision that?

How often any vehicle needs new brakes is 90% a function of the way it's being driven - Most people maintain their desired speed right up to a stop or corner and then use lots of brake to get slowed or stopped. Others take their foot off the gas 100 yards sooner and gradually slow and need to use much less brake. Braking hard while going uphill is a real waste of energy, but I follow people who do it every day - They never seem to figure that just letting off the gas sooner, the laws of physics will slow them down for free. Many times I catch up to them about the time the light turns green and I never had to touch my brakes at all Friction braking is the act of turning the kinetic energy you paid for getting up to speed into heat . . . . and poor gas mileage . . . . and frequent brake jobs. There are more efficient ways to slow down Don

Surfing ? People at our age don't surf , very grateful that i can still walk .

According to Herb's rules, I need bail money...

Hi Folks, just joined the forum, heres my 2007 camper conversion. Looking at lifting the front and putting on some AT tires, 18" rims are from the previous owner and look nice, but not much use off road here in Sweden.

Hi folks, I've been playing with Forscan on my 2018 TC (specifically to disable approach lights). I wrote up a complete tutorial on my website. I'm just learning Forscan so I'm sure I have some small details wrong, but hopefully that will help others.

As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.

I had the same issue with Thule square bars on my Subaru. The bars made all sorts of whistling racket when they were empty above 50 mph. I used a small 1/4" rope wrapped spirally around the bars about 3" apart for a test and that eliminated the noise. Then switched to 1/8" shock cord I ordered from Amazon with bowline knot loops at each end and they always stay taut. Whisper quiet!

Some of it are already well known bloopers, updated: https://www.sadanduseless.com/2018/01/car-ad-failures/ (this here is Finnish, clearly meant to be "REKKAPESU" (truck wash).

I always wanted a "Hippie" van, so after I retired, I bought a Transit Connect and went wild. 1,148 RGB LEDs, two color organs to drive them, a 400 watt amp built into the upper cargo bin, an extra 550 amp battery on the passenger side, half inch foam on the cargo area floor, and 50 square feet of denim insulation stuffed everywhere I could put it. She rides a lot quieter now.

They don't make earthquake tire.

I just got these tires today and some 16 inch steel wheels. BFG K02 215/65r 16 Tirerack.com has the wheels on close out for $40 right now. The front tires rub slightly at full lock when turning but it's no big deal to me. I trimmed a very small portion of the rear felt on the wells cause they rubbed on bumps. Like a very small 1 inch trim.

I don't have the exact figures of the spring ratings (im sure I will in the next few days), but it rides like pretty much every application specific coil over equipped car I have ridden in that wasn't bottomed all the way out. The way I went about parts cross referencing as well, the application I chose to shop shared the SAMe EXACT part number for Coil springs in the Ford Parts catalog as the Transit Connect LWB Van. I can't delve too far into what application just yet, considering the following: I posted the above pic to the MEGAN FB page and got a response inquiring about the application I used, and I expressed my concerns about improvements/changes that could be made to the rear to basically seal the deal on this being a TRUE "suitable for retail" application to be added to their catalog. For that I want to hold off for a few days on letting out the info. I actually tried contacting the folks at Fortune Auto considering they aren't but a 20 min drive from me, but the person on the other end of the message box either had no clue what I was talking about (doubt it) or didn't want to help me with info thinking I was up to no good,after free stuff, or either assumed I was a "BS'er". I really just wanted to be able to "put hands and eyes on" to measure/eyeball the items before I purchased. I even COMMITTED to buying whatever worked while I was there. Isuppose they didn't want some dude with a VAN coming around to help add to their product line up. I have noticed a lot of folks looking to "lift" ..... I can assure you that this particular set of coil overs in the FRONT will give AT LEAST 2" lift over stock considering how much of the threaded adjustment is left on the shock body when it was set close to "stock" ride height (approx 3.5/4". Not to mention, the pre-threaded aluminum perches leave just over an inch of stud left sticking out of the top of the shock tower. I'm sure that would be good to run a solid strut spacer without an sort of worry about failure. As for the bumper - I did have them painted (came as black), and they actually match perfectly. The reason they look a different shade is that the entire van received a decent wax before adding the painted parts. Tripping to PA/NY/FL over the past 4 months without bathing it has retained dirt better on the non-waxed parts. The van actually spends more sitting in between long runs than anything. it only has 10k on the odo in right at a year of use, but its been to West NC 4 times, FL once, PA twice , NY once, and a few other... really no where that wasn't over an 1:30 one way. I need to clean it lol Here's a few I grabbed today in the rain. Excuse the rake, I raised it up a bit to load a motorcycle and deliver across town, this was on my way out of the drop off.

Here's a couple extras! The first is a drawing with all the measurements for the single piece plywood deck I built. And these measurements were corrected to fix the errors I described earlier. Naturally these were for my vehicle so there's no guarantee they'll match yours if you want to try this build. But it should be close if you have a LWB Wagon. The second is a quick diagram and explanation I had for some alternate ways of doing the job that occurred to me during the build. My initial thought was for a smooth, strong and flat floor from a single continuous sheet. But you can get a bit more coverage, 57" wide at the doors instead of 48" wide, if you are willing to have a cut joint in the middle of your floor. It was also starting to become a pain every time I had to install and remove the single panel for the numerous trials and modifications. A narrower folding floor, 26" wide when folded with hinges, can be made in 3 pieces to make frequent installation and removal much easier. Unfortunately, it will also require a second (half) sheet of plywood. I tried and just couldn't seem to get all 3 pieces to pattern onto a single 4x8 sheet if you want the full 57" width at the doors. They are in PDF format for most universal viewing. That's part of the reason for the delay in posting this thread. It took a week to try to learn the DraftSight program well enough to produce a useful drawing. Transit Connect Floor Alternate Ideas.pdf Transit Connect Floor Dimensioned.pdf But if you want the CAD drawings I generated for these, PM me an email address to send them to. I tried to upload the .dwg files but the forum wouldn't allow it. Update: Found an error in the files orignally posted. Fixed the error and posted new corrected files.

Haven't made any permanent changes in my transit yet. Hubby removed 2 passenger side seats, I'm folding down the 2 on the driver's side and have put up some accessories/ curtains. Bought a small porta potty and a small table top size fridge that has a 12V and a 110 plug. Still have plans to put an inverter to have on board electricity but wanted to stay overnight as a test. Fortunately was cool, so didn't need a/c. Fun success! Hubby has a promaster, so I'm fortunate to have his knowledge to help me. ☺️

With this post and the one I posted in brakes/suspension not getting responses I will just post updates to my build here. Feel free to move mods. Raised the front seats with 2” delrin spacers that my friend helped make since he’s significantly better at machining than I am and I’ve been crazy busy, sub under drivers seat, added the 2nd row single seat, A/T tires (215/65/16 Falken - Wildpeaks) and rebuilt the false floor with an access hatch (same friend helped chop the legs and make the adjustable feet). I wanted to reclaim the space under the false floor and it needed to be strong enough to put motos in. We used the stock L bracket that the original floor was bolted to and dropped it down so that the new floor is flush to the rear and also bolts into said L bracket. Using pocket screws I attached a front piece so things don’t go in or out the front of the floor area. I didn’t put it under as there is more than enough support using the extrusion and it gave me a little more space. I figured out the stock rear strut length and am in the process of building some shocks. Hoping I can pull the stock strut soon to dyno match the compression curve so I can install it once and have a great tune. Going with an air shock to be able to pump it up when hauling a moto and/or other gear for trips and take air our when not hauling heavier loads. I also ordered the TEMA 30mm spacer kit. I did a few other small things but I’ll stop boring myself. Here’s some pics.

Hello, thought I'd share some photos of my custom camperization for anyone interested/inspired to do the same. It took me a few months to complete, and definitely learnt a lot along the way. Despite being boxy, there are no straight lines to work off of! Pretty much every piece of wood had to be custom measured and cut (often multiple times). Since finishing it, I've been on lots of road trips on the West Coast of Canada and US. The TC handles it all! Feel free to ask any questions about the build or one's about your project.

The installation was not easy and I need to work on some bugs with the manufacturer. Once everything is resolved I will post more details. liftgate 2-2.mp4

Hi everyone- this is my first post showing my new (used) 2016 Transit Connect Cargo that I bought a few months ago with 26,000 miles on it. I haven't owned an American car since the 1970's and I have to say, this van feels tight, it's quiet, handles great and has really good power- very peppy and fun to drive! I'm getting about 27-28MPG on road trips. A job well done by Ford in design and build quality. I had a 2001 Isuzu Trooper for 18 years and this has so much more room and handles so much lighter. I'm using it for my Carbon Cleaning business and as an everyday driver. As you'll see in the photos, I'm also getting it ready for camping this fall. The bed platform in the back is removable so I can load my business machines or set it up for camping. I can't wait until autumn to try it out! Feel free to ask any questions about the stuff I've built inside. I still want to mount 2 more eye hooks in the front of the roof for my camping awnings to clip onto- I just have to take the time to pull the headliner down so I can bolt them on inside. I'm gonna tint the rear and sliding door side windows too and maybe a tint strip along the top of the windshield. As you can see, I've upgraded the stereo to a Kenwood double DIN unit with 2 USB inputs for Apple CarPlay off my iPhone and I use my iPad for navigation. The drivers door armrest has one screw holding it in but the passenger armrest simply slides down between the seats and it's base sits on the floor- it's rock solid. They were easy to make out of pine. I have a Thule box for the roof too for longer trips. The VanTech rails came with the van. My craftsmanship isn't as fancy as some I've seen on here, but it gets the job done

I appreciate everyones feedback, I finally bought one a 2017 XLT , loaded with upgrades, leather seats, Navigation, Blind spot sensors, very pleased with it so far.

I suppose the current generation of vehicles have an oil change indicator. When the oil change light comes on, I'll change it then. Ford wants the consumer to use Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. Everyone seems to have an idea of Which brand of oil to use. Some people think that they know better than the manufacturer when it comes to which weight to Forums like Bob Is The Oil Guy are full of opinions from guys who will actually have their oil sent to a lab for analysis. Then you have all the guys who will cut their oil filters in half to determine which filters are best. I'm using 5W20 because it is the spec weight, and I already have it on subscription by the case from Amazon. 5W20 works in my pickup, as well as my Honda. Amazon had a decent price for Mag1 full synthetic oil in the 6 quart case. Wally World seems to have good prices on Mobil1 in the 5 qt jugs. Of course, you could always go with Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lucas Oil. Pennzoil.........practically every full synthetic will be a decent oil in comparison to conventional oil. Even the Wal*Mart house brand of full synthetic, is still full synthetic oil. I suppose you could go with 0W20, since it is still 20 weight oil, with a 0 winter temperature rating, if you live in a cold weather climate. But don't get creative. No sense in mixing in a quart of 20W50 to thicken it up, or a little diesel oil for good luck. At the end of the day, you should probably pay a little more attention if you've got an EcoBoost or you're running LPG or Flex Fuel. It used to be that most guys agreed on K&N Filters. Now, Mobil1, Royal Purple, and even aFe are also in the game. If you like Amsoil, they have a filter also. I'm going to use Motorcraft since it is only a couple of dollars, as opposed to between $10 & $20. Hard to use a Wal*Mart filter or Fram, when Motorcraft is only $3.95. You do not have to stick with dealership service if you're still under warranty. Do your own oil change if you enjoy it and it makes you feel better. Get a set of those magnetic sockets. But a Gold Plug and a Filter Mag. Make sure that you have the right filter wrench.