Don Ridley

Assuming the amp is OK, you are need to check the wiring and amp in small steps to verify all is correct. 1. Disconnect wires from the amp and connect one set of wires to a spare speaker to verify it works. Fade right and left and verify that works ( sound should fade completely on one fader side). If that works connect the other set and do the same test. 2. If the wiring is ok, configure the amp for 2ch operation. Not mono, not bridged. Connect one set of wires to one amp channel and connect your spare speaker to the output like you are adding another set of speakers. Fade like before and verify that works. Then connect the other set and perform the same test. 3. If all of that works, you are ready to check the bridged and mono amp settings and your sub speaker. The wiring, amp or sub speaker is the problem.

My 2016 display looks slightly different. It is not as monochrome as yours. My center console has the sync logo near the cigarette lighter.

I agree this appears to be a mono/ stereo problem. Check the LOC for a mono output setting. Check sub for mono or stereo inputs or configuration. I am sure a Google search will identify this problem and possible solutions.

It's nice when we can find a solution. The factory speaker wires are all black so this mistake is easy to make. I installed an Audio Control D4.80 amp/DSP. This is my first real sound system and the DSP computer app has been invaluable. I have tuned the system about 10 times and finally have it about right. I also like the stock look and aftermarket sound. Plus, retaining all stock controls was key. Insulation and sound deadening was key and there is a lot to learn. I finally have a sound system that is too loud. I hope yours is equally enjoyable! Still can't believe I paid more for the speakers than any other component.

Thermozite insulated door panels.

If you are looking for small projects to upgrade your van, sorting through all the posts on this forum can take a lot of time. If you have a 2014-2018 TC all of the changes I have made to my 2016 SWB 1.6L XLT with lift gate Transit Connect will be very similar or exactly the same. Here are 17 easy upgrades I made to my van that will keep you busy for months. I included the associated post when applicable. These are basically in the order of importance or usefulness. MUST-HAVE tools: Set of plastic panel removers ($20 Amazon). One metal one also helps. Service manual. (I know….you can find the needed info here and on the internet so why buy the manual) Heated Seats Rear ceiling LED lights Insulate Door and Panels Internal bike rack Add fuses directly to rear junction box Add high power circuits directly to battery Tint front windows Upgrade sound system using stock head unit Move license plate up Focus Sti engine cover (1.6L turbo only) Add Turbo Transformer turbo boost unknit (1.6L turbo only) Open rear hatch from the inside. Turn on all inside lights with one switch. Install an inner shelf in the center console. Add clear protective film to the top of rear bumper. Glove box light. PDF copy of the service manual Recovery/Tow hook Heated Seats Rear ceiling lights Insulate Door and Panels. No post for this. I used Thermozite and applied with spray adhesive. Do this as you remove panels for other projects. It only takes about 20 minutes per panel and greatly reduces road noise. Also give the doors a solid feel. Internal bike rack Add fuses directly to rear junction box Add high power circuits directly to battery Tint front windows. No post for this. I had it professionally done using 3M Crystalline product. Reduces UV but is not dark. Upgrade sound system using stock head unit. No post for this. I used an Audio Control d4.800 amp with built in digital signal processor. The front speakers were Morel Hybrid. Sub is a 8" Bazooka. Added sound dampening tiles (Second Skin Pro) on doors. System works great and retains all functions of the Ford head unit. Here is a post where I simply upgraded the front speakers. These speakers worked great until I added the amp. Move license plate up. I saw this in another forum post. I used a rivet nut tool to add two new rivets and moved the plat up about 1/2" Focus Sti engine cover (1.6L turbo only). Add Turbo Transformer turbo boost unknit (1.6L turbo only) Open rear liftgate from the inside. Turn on all inside lights with one switch. ALSO HAS INSTRUCTIONS FOR REMOVING DOOR PANELS Install an inner shelf in the center console. Add clear protective film to the top of rear bumper. Use 3M protective film to cover the bumper. Glove box light. No post. Let me know If you need details or info. PDF copy of the service manual (for those who must have their own copy) 18. Recovery/Tow hook.

I also used butyl tiles (CLD) during a sound system upgrade. I read a lot about them on forums and most interesting is you only need 25% coverage to get good results. This product rated very good and the website explains the coverage requirements. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/understanding-vehicle-noise So, definitely add CLD tiles and don't worry about 100% coverage. FYI, Ford applies a tar or butyl CLD- type material on the doors and floor already to help reduce noise. You will see patches of rough material on the doors and floor.

This post explains how to remove the door panels. The tweeter cover is attached to the a-pillar cover. Remove it by starting at the top and pry out the ribbed clips with plastic panel removal tool (they will make a cracking sound). Be careful not to damage there air bag. The air bags are disabled when the ignition is off.

Avguy2, I jacked the TC just ahead of the spot marked by an arrow on the pinch weld. Then I put a jack stand next to the jack. Both used the urethane hockey puck type pads.

The black pads on Amazon I bought were made from Chinese rubber and the nasty smell filled the garage (even in a sealed plastic bag). I threw them away and bought a urethane pad: https://m.ebay.com/itm/1-ea-Universal-Orange-Floor-Jack-Pad-Adapter-for-Pinch-Weld-Side-JACKPAD-disk-/332299053307?hash=item4d5e9128fb%3Ag%3A8XYAAOSwmrlUrvgD&_trkparms=pageci%3Aeaf38ca3-adcd-11e7-a8b9-74dbd180225d%7Cparentrq%3A06db537f15f0a990a8237afcfffcd06a%7Ciid%3A19 The urethane was much better.The black rubber would crease and disform if not perfectly aligned.

Would it be easier to connect the HIDs in parallel with the installed H11 bulbs? This will show if the HID ballast is the cause (if the standard bulbs light but the ballast does not). There is a risk of over drawing the module.

The lights are controlled by a module that is probably using pulse width modulation (PWM). You may be seeing the residual capacitance from the PWM signal. This module has been problematic for an unresolved modification to the fog lights:

If the fog lights are PWM, something like this may save you some time... But at a cost. https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-pwm-interface-module-h11-style-connectors/

Maybe a resistive load of reasonable size (5-10w) will keep the module driver on. You can then add a separate mechanical relay in parallel to power the HIDs. But I still think there will be functional problems with turning the HIDs on every time you turn or signal to turn. You may have to unplug the ALCM.... assuming that does not create a fault condition. Good luck!

Will the HID ignite quicky enough function as cornering lamps? If you wiggle the steering back and forth the cornering lights will wink.

Here are the wiring diagrams. It looks like the cornering lamp module (adaptive front lighting module) is added in parallel with the body control module (normal fog lamp control). I am not sure if/how the AFLM is affecting your HIDs. You may have to disconnect the AFLM. All of these modules can have some sophisticated circuitry that don't react well to added components. Fog lamp wiring.pdf Fog_cornering lamp wiring.pdf Foglamp overviewl.pdf

Does your TC have the cornering fog lamps (turns on each side when you turn the steering wheel)? This function is controlled by a module on the can bus. Maybe that module is causing the problem. Normal fog lamps have a module with an internal relay and no can bus signal, just a voltage from the headlight switch.

Many TC owners on this forum are in the USA. The 1.5 TDCI is not available in the US. After 2016 only the 2.5l engine is available in the US.

There are several threads about under-seat subs here: http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=156468&p=1521281&hilit=subwoofer#p1521281

No. The manual does not have any part numbers.

Just a reminder to those new to the forum. The schematics are most useful and are in color. But, I do miss the ease of flipping though pages and writing notes on a page.

Pull the panel directly towards the back of the van like you are sliding out a drawer. It is difficult to grab, but it will unclip and pull out.

I was experimenting with some coatings and I bought a can of Flex Seal (as seen on TV). The clear stuff sprayed a thick, rough coat. It may work well if you want panels with texture. Just a crazy suggestion...... It's expensive at $12/can.

It is worth the wait to get all the factory options you want. Some options can't be added later without some loss of function (tow pkg for example).

My 2016 service manual wiring diagrams don't reference any upfitter options. There are taxi and crew chief wiring options. The crew chief does not seem useful....not sure what it is for.