Don Ridley

Yes, most likely. If you have the VIN of the donor vehicle you can check the version of firmware it has and compare it to your vehicle. If both are the same it should be possible to use Forscan to configure the new BCM to match yours. This is not a straightforward process or project but a determined person may get it to work. Only a dealer can update firmware. It is definitely easier to pay a dealer to do this, but some of us are thrifty and enjoy challenges.

I have the same problem. Plus I park under a tree so it's constant. I glued in some foam blocks that seal those gaps in the fender. This works well but I still get some leaves in there. I still don't see how a leaf could get sucked into the plenum.

Yes, I put the TC in learn mode by using the ignition on/off sequence. Then I triggered each wheel by releasing air in the order prescribed.

After removing the splash shield a couple of times, I grew to hate the fasteners. The rounded heads make it difficult to spin them on with oily fingers and the torx heads don't sit inside a socket like a normal hex head fastener. One half turn too many and the plastic insert will strip. I lost one of the screws because it would not tighten any more. I tried replacing the plastic inserts with some Amazon or eBay replacements but they did not work well. I finally installed 6mm jack nuts. They installed easily and now I have I can hand tighten the bolts and snug them firmly without stripping the threads.

See the attached. It is curious how the leaves are getting into to blower. Another forum member had mice build a nest in the plenum. There must be an opening other than the plastic vents in front of the windshield. blower moter removal.pdf

Billsrey, As you know the power point outlets are connected directly to unswitched power. There is no way to turn these off. Other, more expensive Fords, have made these outlets with configurable power time-outs. It would probably be worthwhile to add a switched 12V circuit for your dashcam or other devices you don't want to unplug every time. The fuse panel is easily accessible behind the glove box. One of these days the car mfgs will get rid of the stupid cigar lighter power plug format and provide 12v and 5v options we all need for our "connected" lives.

I looks like none of the US market vans or wagon configuration got hooks.

The 1.6 Ecoboost had serious overheating problems in 2013-2014 model years. There are a lot of TSBs and at least one safety recall. Do a quick Google search then go to a dealer with this information.

The procedure is clunky, but really only takes 10-15 minutes. Put the TC in learn mode, let air out of each tire until the horn sounds, fill all tires back to normal pressure.

The head unit is called the Audio Control Module (ACM). It communicates with the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM controls when it turns on/off when opening doors etc. If you have a scanner or Forscan you could check for a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) related to the ACM. A DTC would likely show any comm errors. If the ACM is faulty it should be straightforward to replace it with a used unit from a salvage yard if you can find one. If the dome lights and other items turn on/off when you open the doors then the door switches and BCM are probably OK. So many items are connected and controlled by other modules that old school troubleshooting wires and switches may not be helpful.

There is an auxiliary electric cabin heater that turns on when ambient temperature is less than 45 (I think). Once the engine is warm it turns off.

Search T10 socket on Amazon. Many options.

Well done. Now let's see what you can do with Forscan.

Here's some Forscan info. Looks very straightforward. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2507

OBDlink MX. Don't go cheap. You are messing with vital programming. Research Forscan on the f150, fusion and escape forums. They have good instructions.

You should be able to turn on cruise control using Forscan. It performs many of the IDS functions.

The factory racks are made by Thule. Maybe Thule can help. Dealerships are not much help on these vehicles.

I used this stuff to insulate the door panels. You can attach it to the roof with spray glue. https://rbcomponents.com/products/thermozite-thermal-acoustic-insulation ebay may have better prices,

No issues with my 2016 that lives outside in the Calif sun. It has a chip from road debris that has not cracked yet.

Fifty, Did you install the led into the existing bumper mounted reflectors? Or is the LED a replacement for the reflectors?

You have a big project because you are doing everything the right way. No way you will be done this weekend. Your questions: Floor: yes you will need to remove the trim pieces. This is easy. Ceiling: my opinion, no. Rear doors: here is where I deviate from the audio purists. I used the factory speaker wires. All connections from the amp speaker wires were made at the head unit connector. I struggled with this decision because I am an electrical engineer and always take the conservative approach. But the audio quality is fine. I seriously doubt you could hear a difference between 18 ga and 14 ga wire. This significantly simplified installation and made it very clean. FYI I am pushing about 120w to my mids. You will have good access to all the doors after you remove the panels. Panel removal tools are a necessity and are $15 on Amazon. Keep us updated. Curios to know how the tuning goes. This was new to me and it was surprising how much it affects and improves the sound. Have fun.

This shows the location of the factory CLD-type panels. They are sections of mastic applied before the vehicle is painted. TC noise panels.pdf

I spent hours reading sound deadening forum posts. It is a contentious topic. This website has a good explanation and their products tested well. Note you only need 30-50% coverage for CLD. https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I used Second Skin and its only drawback is price. The doors have some factory deadening so apply yours around it if you want to save money. I did not apply any to the roof because of the headliner. I put leftover tiles on the rear floor. I mounted the amp/DSP under the front seat on top of the stryofoam block. I glued in plastic screw anchors (the big ones for heavy loads in sheetrock) the stryofoam. There is a 8mm anchor point near the amp on the floor you can use for GND connection.

No, I have not experimented with disabling the shutters. My immediate problem is the narrower FMIC exposes the MAP sensor to road debris. First I need to shield it from harm. I don't think I can try to shutter experiment now because because cool weather is here. Plus I was thinking about what is more important: 3-5 extra horsepower under certain freeway driving conditions or 2 extra MPG under all freeway driving conditions. The MPG advantage wins. But I will probably get bored next summer and try the shutter experiment.

Welcome to the forum. I kept the stock head unit and installed an amp w/DSP and some nice speakers. 6.5" speakers will fit but you have to cut the mounting ring off of the stock speakers. Amp: Audiocontrol d4.80 Speakers: Morel Hybrid Sub: Bazooka tube The d4.80 is great for aftermarket upgrades using the stock head unit. It handles line input signals and the DSP removes any factory adjustments to the audio signal so you can start with a flat response. If you never had a DSP you will wonder how you ever listened to music without one. My initial speaker upgrade. These were replaced by the Morels: Power for the amp: Here is info on removing the door panels. There are other posts about speaker installs and complete audio system upgrades you should check out. Good luck with your project.