Don Ridley

Probably not.... But we need to know more details. Year of vehicle, symptoms etc. Most switching is done by modules and they are designed to handle shorts without affecting other systems.

I don't notice any obvious performance improvement. But combusting cooler air does increase potential HP. I will experiment with disabling the AGS. I suspect that will set a DTC at minimum. The project was fun and I am already looking for another project that is arguably unnecessary.

I attempted to fit a Cobb front mounted intercooler (FMIC) made for a 2016 Fiesta into my 2016 TC 1.6L and it did not come close to fitting. The TC has very limited space and also has the MAP (manifold pressure) sensor and the evap purge line integrated into the outlet end tank. The only FMIC I found that had the proper dimensions is a Mishmoto Z-Line. This FMIC is a universal fit model. The downside is it is only slightly larger in volume than the stock FMIC. I bought a MAP sensor mounting bracket and 1/8 NPT weld bung from ATP Turbo. A local machine shop welded them to the outlet tank. The MAP sensor must be oriented so the electrical connector is opposite the evap connector. The evap line connects use the same connector as 3/8” fuel line. I used a Dorman short length of replacement steel fuel line with integrated connector ring and attached it to the FMIC using a 3/8” tubing connector. I had to bend the fuel line 45 deg to mate it with the stock evap connector. The hard part of the install was fabricating mounting brackets. The top of the stock FMIC slips onto two plastic tabs. I cut, drilled and cut, cut, cut some aluminum to make a similar bracket for the Mishi FMIC. The bottom brackets were simply bolted to the frame. The stock FMIC has 2” hose connections. The Mishi has 2.5”. I used 90 deg reducing elbow silicone hoses to connect to the stock hoses and pipes (there are 3 different diameter hoses and pipes from the turbo to the intake: some as small 1.75”). Cutting and clamping the elbows was surprisingly time consuming (even though I used the trick of a hose clamp as a cutting guide). The bottom bolts on the FMIC protruded into the plastic bottom cover. Cutting some ribs and drilling a big hole allowed the cover to be reconnected. So how does the Mishmoto FMIC work?............Not much better than the stock FMIC The Stock FMIC produced ambient-vs-intake air temperate differentials of 17 to 35 deg F on the highway (hot days). City driving had differentials of at least 25 deg and higher. The early results on the Mishi shows it is about 5-10 deg better than stock. But it does NOT hold intake temperatures 5 deg above ambient like a large, performance FMIC would. One reason for this is I left the active grill shutters (AGS) connected. They only open 30% at highway speeds and often partially close when driving around town. Removing the shutter completely or maybe removing the slats in front of the FMIC would allow better cooling. Plus the Z-Line is the lowest performing FMIC according to Mishi. The Mishimoto probably has slightly less backpressure than the stock unit and this will improve performance. Overall I give myself an "A" for execution and "C" for results. If anyone wants to try this install, I can provide links to the parts I used. Just let me know.

I briefly tried to remove the panel per the instructions in the manual (like GBL's post). But it was not coming apart and I did not want to break the panels. I chose Plan B and ran my speaker and power wires using a fish tape. It was easy and the dash panel is undamaged.

.....I think you question was whether the Z-Series is designed as a universal fit IC. Yes it is But the Z-Series does not easily fit the TC. Sorry for the mix up.

No, any intercooler will require modifications to add the pressure sensor and evap purge fittings. I am having those welded by a shop. I will need to fab some mounting brackets.

Maybe mutes nav instructions when you are playing music via Bluetooth or talking on the phone?

The Fiesta and TC have similar part numbers for the intercooler. I assumed they were functionally the same...this was a mistake. I ordered the Cobb intercooler for a Fiesta and it is not close to fitting or working. 1. The Fiesta IC mounts differently and it's location allows for a much larger, wider unit to be installed. 2. The TC intercooler mounts between frame rails that limit the width... unlike the Fiesta. 3. The TC IC has two ports on the outlet, one for the MAP sensor and another for an evap line. I removed the stock TC and measured all clearances. The only TC that will fit is a Mishimoto Z-Series. I ordered one and will have the necessary ports installed by a machine shop. Look for a separate post on the install soon.

These types of technical challenges require a lot of research. I have used Forscan and FOCCCUS on my Gen 2 TC and they work fine. I use the OBDlink MX Bluetooth ELM. I don't know if you can change the transmission type and/or if you must also change other modules. I have no experience with the Gen1 configuration. Here are some suggestions on where to look for info: 1. Ford Focus forums like focusfanatics. Lots of guys modifying those cars. 2. Try looking up your vehicle configuration using the vin on Ford's service website (maybe someone here can provide a link). Then look up the configuration of a donor Focus to see if the transmission and gearing are the same. 3. The Forscan forum is rarely helpful for specific problems, but it has a lot of info on how to connect to a vehicle. You may be stuck with having a sophisticated shop replace the transmission even if you use one from a TC. I know the Gen2 transmission is controlled and monitored by the ECU (or various modules) so it must connect perfectly to operate at all.

It's all very subjective. Americans seem to have no problem dressing up pickup trucks to look like race cars.

https://jalopnik.com/im-a-cyclist-that-finally-needs-a-car-what-should-i-bu-1828384088

Project Bike Truck, Any update on the Cobb intercooler?

The TPMS sensors go into sleep mode when they tire does not rotate for 30 min. You need to put the normal tire back on the vehicle and perform a sensor calibration procedure. The sensors will wake up when you drive and transmit data to the BCM. You can read the tire pressure with most OBDII reader apps.

This is why I do all work possible myself. I know I can screw up much less frequently than others. Of course recalls are the exception.

That is a crazy story. Your resoulfuness is commendable. I thought the fresh air is pulled through the screened vents by each wiper?

It takes 100+ million years to make a gallon of crude oil. There is a lot of extra energy around (sun, wind, wave, Geo thermal etc). Oil is finite. When it's gone it's gone. Save the oil for the thousands of valuable carbon compounds needed to make stuff. Burning it is like burning 300 year old oak just to keep warm. I love my vehicle and the internal combustion engine, but that is not the future. The next generation will argue about performance mods to their electric motors.

R9 in the fuse block under the hood is the Aux Ignition relay in a TC van. If you have a wagon it is R 2 in the rear fuse block. The relay controls the wipers and other accessories. Here are the troubleshooting instructions for the relay. Aux Ignition relay.pdf

Use Forscan to reset each of the modules involved. Read and clear all DTC s. Relay 9 is for remote start (if I remember correctly). I think you have a software bug, not wiring problem.

You need a scanner to work on these vehicles. Everything is controlled by micro computers (modules). A scanner will show the diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) that have been triggered by the wiper operation. An OBDII reader is not sufficient. Buy an aftermarket scanner or use Forscan and an ELM converter. Attached are the first 6 pages of the wiper troubleshooting from a 2016 service manual. Note the DTCs on the last 2 pages. This is where you need to begin. wiper operation.pdf

Sorry, I replied to the wrong post.

This program can perform the PATS function. I don't know if it requires two keys. You will need to buy a module to communicate with the TC. This will cost $40-80. So maybe a trip to the dealership is better. https://forscan.org/home.html

Here is some info from the Fiesta ST forum. http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/10660-Full-Recirculation-Bypass-Valve-Boomba-Racing?highlight=Boomba

It is difficult to tell if this made a difference in performance. I did NOT drive the TC hard, then modify, and drive hard again. And after adding the BRV of course I drove around and floored the throttle every chance I got so it naturally felt quicker and faster. The turbo flutter sound definitely lets you know when the turbo was running so it is similar to having a loud exhaust: you get audible feedback when you punch the throttle. I have a Focus RS air box so the flutter sound is louder than it would be with a stock air box. I also have a Flowmaster Turbo Transformer that increased the turbo boost pressure from about 15 psi to 19 psi. The Boomba pneumatically actuated valve will perform much better at higher pressures than the electrical solenoid with a return spring so there is a technical advantage that may or may not be necessary. Ford engineers spent a lot of time to make the turbo operation totally silent and maybe this sacrificed some performance. You can make the same argument for softer suspension springs.... Overall I am happy with this modification. It adds to the fun-factor of driving this $25K van that wants to be a sports car. And since I didn't drop $50K on an Audi or $40K for a Subaru I have plenty of disposable income to buy $200 items just for fun. My wife is not impressed with the new noises.

I replaced the factory turbo blow-off valve with an upgraded blow-off valve w/recirculation by Boomba Racing. Boomba makes a valve and installation kit for 2014+ Fiesta ST that works perfectly for TC's with a 1.6L engine. http://www.boombaracing.com/2014-fiesta-st-boost-operated-bypass-valve-full-recirculation/ The Boomba valve still routes the blow-off pressure into the intake so you will not get a loud pressure relief sound when it opens. It does create a turbo compressor surge "flutter" sound when you back off the throttle. Sounds like this (but not as loud) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqx0AHdj1Wk The installation is easy but you will need an 8mm nut to attach the solenoid valve to the existing stud on the firewall. Here is the solenoid mounted to the firewall (viewed from the engine bay). The throttle response seems better. The turbo flutter sound is kinda cool but barely noticeable at highway speeds. I think it sounds like turkeys.

You can also buy a limited subscription to Ford's diagnostic and programming software. This should work if you have enough time to learn it before your 2 day ($50) or 30 day ($150)subscription expires. https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/VDIRS/wds/vcm_retail_renewal_Latest.asp