Don Ridley

Wait and get exactly what you want. Factory equipment is better in most cases, e.g. the tow package includes a computer module that controls trailer sway using the brakes and also integrates with parking sensors etc. You should get factory rebates and 3 or 4 months will go by quickly.

My 2016 XLT does not have any coat hooks. Can someone post a photo of their location? I plan on buying a couple and need to find the mounting bracket behind the headliner.

Yes. it will work. I have the same one. You just have to figure out which jaws crimp the wire and which crimp the insulation/strain relief. You will look for reasons to use it once you successfully crimp a connector or terminal!

I could not locate the switch here: http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2016/ford/transit-connect/titanium-trim/2-5l-l4-gas-engine/electrical-cat/switches-scat Maybe it is not available in the US?

The cornering lights are clever, but I doubt they will ever illuminate anything I need to worry about. You can make the lights wink by turning the wheel back and forth at a stoplight. I also never realized any advantage using fog lights...maybe they help others see you?

Here is a nice advantage of the high roof on the TC. I installed a Thule Sidearm rack inside my 2016 SWB XLT. I fabricated a plate and used shoulder nuts (threaded rivets) to mount it to the floor. The mountain bike barely fits and the road bike fits perfectly.https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/roof-bike-racks/thule-sidearm-594xt-_-5546509

Here is a nice advantage of the high roof on the TC. I installed a Thule Sidearm rack inside my 2016 SWB XLT. I fabricated a plate and used shoulder nuts (threaded rivets) to mount it to the floor. The mountain bike barely fits and the road bike fits perfectly.https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/roof-bike-racks/thule-sidearm-594xt-_-5546509

I reviewed the wiring diagrams and it appears the switched power in the AJB comes through the relay mounted at the top of the AJB. These circuits are limited to 20 amps by a fuse. You should use the constant "hot" fuse slots in the AJB for most added circuits.

Yes, the last tool will work. Removing the fuse block is easy. Insert the terminal crimped onto a length of wire paying attention to the direction of the contact slot so a fuse can be inserted. This is almost as easy as changing a light bulb. Use the smallest amp fuse you need. 5 amp works for all LED lights. 20 and 30 amp are only for large loads. I use 14awg wire minimum for everything, plus I have a big spool of it (MTW type, not THHN).

XLT.

I added some nice LED lights to the cargo area of my SWB 2016 wagon. The lights have an OEM look and provide just enough light to illuminate the cargo area. The lights are mfg by Brand Motion http://www.brandmotion.com/oem-integration/led-lighting/loftlite-led-interior-lighting-kit.html The total lumens from the 4 lights is probably around 90-100. I tapped into the wiring for the side mounted cargo lights. The lights turn on and off with the doors. They dim as the interior lights turn off like the stock incandescent lamps. Each light has a function where separate power can be wired to the light to turn it on by pushing the center of the lamp. Unfortunately this won't work in the TC because the TC dims the lights and turns them off by raising the negative supply to the lamps from 0 volts to +12 volts. So when the lights are off both leads are at +12V. The "push-on" function won't work because when the lamps are off there is no negative supply to the lamp. This is not a problem for me because I would never be in a position to turn the lights on while I am driving. If you wanted them to be reading lights for passengers it would not work. The installation is relatively easy. You have to carefully pull down the headliner just enough to access the back side and cut 4 holes. The insulation on the headliner has to be shaved away so the bezel can snap onto the lamp (use an xacto knife and cut at a 45 deg angle from the bottom of the hole). You will also need to temporarily wedge something between the front lamp housing and the roof so you can push the bezel on. I cut a short piece of PVC pipe and stuck it on a long rod. You remove the wedge once the unit is snapped into place.

When they program your computer this is an opportunity to add all the"soft" options like daytime running lamps, remote window control etc.

Fifty, BBJ will have an inexhaustible supply soon but it is a nice surprise to see them available on Amazon. I thought once I found the right part numbers they should be easy to find. The terminals simply plug into the back of the fuse block. Add a fuse up front and you have an OEM type circuit. You need a crimp tool like this. Shop around for a better deal. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SZL59NY/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZT3T3N4DQNBJDMN6RP87 I am waiting for some audio components before I start my wiring project.

Just to clarify, I don't have extra terminals. My supply came from a larger Lear terminal kit.

Buy the tool or tools. I don't know why I waited so long. Here is what I am using: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1474823907&sr=8-14&keywords=panel+removal+tool It seems like every interior and exterior panel on the van is secured by plastic fasteners.

The Auxiliary Junction Box (AJB) is located in the access panel in the right rear of the van. The AJB has a lot of spare fuse slots for switched and constant power. The AJB is made by Lear in the UK or EU and finding a US source for the terminals has been a challenge. After much trial and error and with the help of DonShockley, here is a local source for the terminals needed to properly add circuits to the AJB: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-968857-3-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKpfjTZYxfnESgPEJGoSWVDw%3D http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-968859-3/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhqy3aI3kZvUXP11VT0ejBFP6KL61KptWcoM%2bOzVMsngg%3D%3D The 968857-3 terminals are for #14-10AWG wire. The 968859-3 is for #10AWG and larger. You will need a crimping tool but they can be found for around $15. The only problem with this solution is you need to buy 100pcs for most terminal sizes. I have all the terminals I will need but maybe others can share the costs. Adding circuits properly and safely is well worth the cost and effort. No unsightly splices or piggy-back solutions! The AJB is fed by a 70 amp fuse so you can safely add a 20 or 30 amp circuit and numerous smaller ones for Led lights or other low power accessories. The AJB has two types of spare fuse slots: one has single-sided contact with the power buss bar and other has double-sided contact. Use the double sided ones for high amperage circuits. You can see the copper contacts from the front of the AJB. AMP_Lear terminal spec.pdf

My 2016 took about 12 weeks from build date to delivery in California. Delivery from the east coast to California was 3 weeks alone.

Great list curiosul. I don't have the Titanium pkg or LWB but I agree with most of your observations. I tried the "S" gear selection and it does seem to auto shift different from "D" . I had no idea. I hope I really appreciate the quick clear window windshield this winter, otherwise it will be replaced with a normal windshield. I disagree about the 2" receiver. I can swap bike racks from truck to van and I like the versatility of the 2" format. Engineering is the art of compromise. We like this van for its utility and affordability. I can only imagine the wish-list of features that could not meet the product cost requirements. However, the lack of pockets around the dash is frustrating.

The headlamp wiring diagram shows the DRL does not involve any extra components. headlamp wiring.pdf

The DRLs are turned on by the Body Control Module. The DRL function has to be configured by the factory (or maybe a dealer). Attached is an excerpt from the service manual. Ask the dealer if they can configure this function. No extra hardware is required (at least according to the manual). The factory DRL option was about $40. The Ford diagnostic software is "Oasis". The manual does not say if Oasis can configure DRL bit it can definitely confirm the configuration. drl.pdf

I recently had the front windows tinted at a shop. I researched window tint materials and not all products are equal. The cheaper products will turn blue-ish over time. The more expensive (by 3M and others) ones will not. I chose the most expensive tint, 3M Crystalline series: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1161043O/3m-automotive-window-film-crystalline-series-brochure.pdf This tint is designed to reduce the IR radiation (heat) without having to be dark. The front windows have CR70 and are barely darker than stock, but the tint supposedly reduces the total solar energy by 50%. The tint is expensive...around $100+(not including labor) just for the front windows. Hopefully this keeps the CHP off my back.

I ordered a 2016 TC, short wheel base 1.6L wagon in late April. It arrived in California in early August. I am very happy with the 1.6L turbo engine. I had driven the 2.5L version and it was OK, but the turbo generates more torque at lower rpm and is more fun to drive. I ordered most of the options except for leather seats, SYNC and parking assist. My only regret is I bought the Quicklear windshield . This windshield has very fine heater wires that are almost invisible, but they diffract light at night and bug me. It is overkill for California weather and I may replace the windshield with a normal one. I have lots of projects and upgrades planned and will post them as they occur. So far the van is exactly what I wanted.