Don Ridley

You will need to loosen the center console and access the 12v socket and coin holder assembly from the bottom. You can't pry it loose from the top. What are you going to fill the rectangular hole with?

Looks great and functional. I am sure there are other changes you can make, so you can still have more fun with TC projects.

Yes please: 1. Exactly measure the amount of fuel consumed. Drain the tank, fill and measure how much is left. 2. Exactly measure the distance travelled. An independent, calibrated device should be used. Your odometer cannot be trusted. 3. Calculate the mpg only after 3 similar, independent trips. Report the average for statistical accuracy.

This shows the number and location of clips you need to pop out. side panel.pdf

No. There is a transmitter in the key that deactivates an immobilizer. One reason not to hide a spare key because it can deactivate the immobilizer.

There is a complicated vapor recovery system on the TC and all newer vehicles. (Vapors from the gas tank are adsorbed into a carbon cannisters and later fed (desorbed) into the engine). Topping off the tank may be affecting this system. The F-150s capless system has a flaw and Ford was heavily penalized by California regulators. Maybe your fume smelling is related to this flaw? Maybe you are pushing liquid gas into the vapor recovery path? I don't top-off and have never smelled gas fumes. FYI, the vapor recovery system is the reason you don't smell gas fumes as you fill the tank.

The capless design will not allow a siphon tube to be inserted. A prepared thief could fabricate something that would work, but they probably aren't that clever yet.

After further thought, if you just want to keep the lights from turning on when you open the driver's door I have a write-up that will be useful. You will have to install the new switch in parallel with the driver door latch switch (not as shown in my post).

Willy, This is complicated and probably impossible. There are multiple computers (modules) that communicate the status of switches, delays etc. to a main module. Not sure you can simply bypass all the logic with a switch. You will need several pages of schematics and an explanation of the logic. The service manual may have enough info to do this. Search for posts for a PDF copy of the manual if you are interested. They cost about $65.

Fuse F60, 10 amp, powers all the interior lights (2016 TC). Don S is right about the complexity of this circuit. The body control module has a non-serviceable relay that controls the lights. It also creates the theater lighting effect (ramps up to turn on and slowly dims to turn off). You may damage the module if you draw too much power. Plus the negative (-) lead is not at zero volts. It is held at +12v and the module ramps it down to zero volts to create the theater effect. Who knows how this will affect a USB power supply or device. Wiring diagram attached. interior lights circuit.pdf

I agree the future of documentation and customer expectations is changing.

The camera is triggered by the gear selector. There are multiple sensors and conditions that will determine if the camera turns on. For example you can select a delay so the camera stays on for a while as you drive forward then turns off at about 10 mph. All of these conditions are programmed and can be changed with new programming. But changing these features would require a lot of documentation updates like new owners manuals, service manuals etc.. Ford is not going to make this type of change. SYNC updates correct problems with the software and maybe adds new apps, but they don't change the way the vehicle functions or operates.

Based on the fasteners it was added after mfg. And those fasteners are too small for heavy loads.

A+ on the marine grade switch panel. I really like it. You could have tapped directly into the aux junction box and added fuses in the open slots, but that is a feature I give too much value to. The extra fuse block is functionally equal. Nice work.

It is easy to run power to the headliner from the cargo lights on the sides. A light like this will easily mount in the headliner. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/dome-recessed-puck-led-lights/6-inch-rectangular-led-dome-light-fixture-w-chrome-housing-30-watt-equivalent/744/2018/#tab/PhotoViewer Access to the back section of headliner is no problem.

Check out the most recent posts in the Buying, Leasing, Owner Impression section. Some don't like the noise in the back of the LWB. I added insulation on all the plastic panels, but can't say how effective it was (except it makes the doors very solid). Driver's seat in XLT is ok for me. My only complaint is the power seat goes up and back....not independent. E.g. if you want to raise the seat height it must also go back. But leg room is great.

I am not sure how the steering wheel controls interface with the head unit (ACM in the schematic). The FCDIM must respond to the voltages produces by the switches. I can't find any schematics for the FCDIM. This is probably not much help. steering wheel control.pdf

Yes, the blind spot monitoring system is disabled by the trailer module when a trailer is attached. But, you need fully functional trailer lights or you will get bulb failure messages when you turn or brake.

Maybe there is another solution. Your factory trailer wiring includes a trailer module (computer). I think the sensors are deactivated when a trailer is connected. Maybe a simple plug-in tester like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049MX8AY?psc=1 Will be enough of a load for the module to sense a trailer is connected. I will review the service manual to see what it says about the sensors.

My Gen 2 TC (2016) was made in Valencia Spain. I think it's the same for all Gen 2. Go to Ford ETIS and enter your Vin #.

YES. Add the speakers, especially if the wiring is already there. I upgraded all 4 speakers on my 2016 basic stock stereo(standard SYNC). Today I tested the sound with just the front speakers then faded in the rear. The extra sound from the rear speakers greatly improved the sound. I will eventually add a sub and amp but for now the sound is good. FYI, I have component speakers with crossovers up front. They definitely need more power, but I think for the money and effort, adding a pair of $100 2-way speakers in back is a good upgrade. The stock head unit outputs about 20w per channel.

About 4' x 6' for my SWB wagon. It cuts with heavy duty scissors.

Buy a set of panel trim removal tools on Amazon for less than $20. Start at the opening for the rear fuse block. I insulated all the interior panels on my TC wagon using Thermozite (available on eBay and many other retailers). Use spray adhesive (3m or Loctite brand). http://www.perfectfit.com/15269/154086/Carpet--Padding/Thermozite-Insulator-Padding----Sound--Heat-Solution.html Thermozite on the door panels made a big difference in sound and door closing "feel". Very solid. Dynamat won't keep the plastic from rattling.

Thanks for the links. You may be interested in this mod I installed on my TC. It works and is simple to install. Delta Boost/ Turbo Transformer installed, reviewed

Boomer, Yes, I ordered the aircraft style storage compartments with the vehicle (special ordered the entire TC).