Don Ridley

Jnice, Instead of wood paneling have you considered a composite material like this http://www.mirageinc.com/superlite-rv-wall-panels-composite-white-44mm FYI, I have not used this product, this is just an example. Wood paneling always gives me 70s van flashbacks ?

I see... You are using in line connector C465 ( I was thinking you were at the connector on the door latch). Pin 7 is +12v. Pin 10 should be GND. It looks like you determined pin 2 is also GND. Pin 1 is the +12v door ajar signal.

Pin 7 or pin 1? Nice work! Where are you installing the switch? I thought about putting it up on the shelf above the fuse block but that would require running wires from the liftgate into the van. This is not easy on the front doors because the wires go through a connector at the body bulkhead.... They don't just pass through. While you have the plastic liftgate panel off you should insulate it with a thin foam or other noise deadening product like thermozite (available many websites) http://www.sailrite.com/Thermozite-Thermal-Acoustic-Insulation-36-x-48_2

PWS, Let's verify the pins. Pin #2 should be +12V, pin #1 should be GND. Put a voltmeter on each to verify. Unplug the connector and measure the resistance across pins 1 and 2. It should read "open" and will go to zero ohms when you press the door latch. If this is true you can try putting a jumper across pin 1 and 2 with everything connected and the door latch should open. If you don't have a volt-ohm meter, verify the wires by the wire size in Don Shockleys's diagram. Pin 2 will go to GND when you press the latch.

Yes. Tasca is a good source for the part.

I should have noted the schematic is for a 2016 TC

Since this is a simple connection involving GND connections, I would use any type of crimp on insulation displacement connector. https://www.zoro.com/3m-displacement-connector-18-14-awg-pk50-801/i/G1141777/?gclid=CjwKEAiAlZDFBRCKncm67qihiHwSJABtoNIgaiYMGVKuZd2R7cF8mAyDKfBdmAhcprkU-U5VZADqvxoC7PLw_wcB Crimp at the connector on the liftgate switch ( pin 1 and 2) Connect a momentary contact pushbutton switch. I may install a switch also since it is easy and makes sense ( as long as the doors are unlocked) The plastic panel on the liftgate snaps on in about a dozen places. Buy a tool to pop the pins so you don't break any (any variant of this tool should work, the plastic ones are also useful) https://www.jbtoolsales.com/sg-tool-aid-87810-upholstery-clip-removal-tool/?gclid=CjwKEAiAlZDFBRCKncm67qihiHwSJABtoNIgr3ls_h_Gm3KlHD_ae_Zfm96iI97P22CmXL7k4fVVBhoCkXXw_wcB

Maybe the rings I used were 14 GA ( no info on pkg or the website, just a bunch of rings in a bag). I also bought some 16 GA that were not strong enough.

Better image. After closer review the door switch provides a GND connection to activate the relay that opens the door. It does not look like you can separately add a GND to the relay that would open the door regardless of the lock/unlock status.

Here is the wiring diagram. The body control module determines when the switch will get 12V. You can wire another switch or pushbutton in parallel and it will work when doors are unlocked. You could probably connect +12 to the secondary switch and it will open the door, but I don't know if it will affect the BCM.

I agree with Fitty'. The latch is electronically controlled. But you will have to see how it only gets power when the door is unlocked. I will look for a wiring diagram tomorrow.

Unless your 2016 TC has leather seats, you likely do not have heated seats. I know that heated seats are not really necessary, but they are wonderful! I combined this project with a future stereo amp and subwoofer upgrade. I was adding 7 circuits to the rear aux junction box (AJB). I would connect directly to the back of the AJB for each circuit using the connectors Don Shockley and I sourced. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5618-add-circuits-directly-to-aux-junction-box-using-oem-terminals/ I chose seat heaters by Rostra. They cost about $55 each. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rpc-250-1870 (The forum directs the web link to a third party web page. Click at the bottom right to go to the real link) I was most worried about taking the seats apart and installing the heater pads so I decided to practice on the single, rear passenger-side seat. I muscled the seat covers on and off this seat but learned the hard way that I needed hog ring pliers and hog rings, like these: HEATED SEAT installation Take the seats out of the van to install the heater. Remove the outside plastic cover panel taking care not to beak any of the tabs (it slides off, it does not pop off). Pull the cover off the seat back or bottom (there are straps, Velcro and one elastic strap that needs to be cut then reconnected using hog rings). Cut the hog rings as you uncover them. The seat back does not have rings, just a long rod with a loop on the end…unloop this rod. Install the seat or back pad per the instructions. Here I had to cut a channel so the center seam on the seat could be reconnected. Rostra has a good YouTube video on this. Now the reinstall the new hog rings. You have to hook the plastic rod/stiffener on the seat cover (it has an official name but nobody but upholstery guys know what it means) and push it down into the seat foam to connect to the metal rod embedded in the foam. Several times I closed the hog ring only to find I did not catch the bottom rod. Just cut the ring and try again. After the heater pads are installed, route and secure the wiring harness under the seat. The OEM location for the switches has a power outlet and coin slot and I could no buy the insert with the switch cutouts. I chose to put the switch on the seat so I did not have to run wires to and from the dash or the center console. Here is the switch on the driver’s seat: I pulled 8 wires to the AJB (7 + 1 spare). I followed the existing wire harness. This was probably the most difficult part of the project. I installed ground lugs under each seat. I used the Leer terminals to connect each wire to an open slot in the AJB. There is one column of ACC power and 2 separate columns of +12 on the AJB. After installing all the terminals the wiring looks completely OEM. The seat heaters work great. The only downside is I can’t see if the passenger heater is on (but I can feel the seat). The next step will be to install the amp, sub and the heater switch for the rear seat (it will be in the console below the power plug). I am waiting since I only want to remove the console once and nobody rides in the back seat anyway. It was difficult finding the right hog rings. I would recommend using 12 GA galvanized or stainless steel rings. They don’t have to be pointed. The ones I used will probably rust if they get wet. Hog rigs are typically sold by the pound, like nails, so you may have to buy a lifetime supply. The specific brand of pliers (CS Osborne) I used were highly recommended by a YouTube upholstery guy and they worked great and cost about $25.

I know zero about increasing an engine's performance, especially a turbo. This discussion, if accurate, explains the Turbo Transformer. http://www.focusst.org/forum#/topics/28685?page=7&_k=verqdm After I am done upgrading the inside of my TC I may try this device. Maybe you will have some BoostMax experience by then. Or, maybe I should stick to the mods I understand ?

Dapper, Did you review the Turbo Transformer along with the BoostMax? Looks like the Turbo Transformer is easy to install and was reviewed favorably on the Focus forum (given it was not the preferred mod of a new tune). Your van looks great!

Here is a thread showing various options for hauling road and MTB bicycles inside the TC.

Duplicate post

Looking forward to photos and a report on the turbo boost module. Do you have the retro black/gold California plates?

This should not be such a mystery to the dealer. My key is labeled "orange" with an orange colored dot. This implies there are not a lot of key choices. If you can, go to another dealer, or contact an on line dealer like Tasca and they may be more helpful. You should also check the Ford Focus forums, those guys have nothing but premium alloy wheels on their cars.

As a follow-up, the coat hooks are not there if you have the overhead aircraft style storage. The storage covers the mounting hole. The is nothing but headliner from there to the back of the van. This section of headliner is away from the body/roof so there is nothing to bolt a hook onto. I will survive without them.

I contacted the sales guy at my dealer and he said he checked multiple TCs in stock and none had a tow hook. I do not want to drive the long distance to the dealer so it was easier to order one for about $30 delivered. I bought the same part shown in the previous post ( but from another source).

Thanks for the replies. I will contact the dealer. I will never need the tow hook, but now I really want one.

My 2016 did not come with a recovery hook (US destination). https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HB9L7I2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480352791&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=ford+recovery+hook&dpPl=1&dpID=316MIut5PeL&ref=plSrch# There is a place to stow it by the jack. I assume this item is not required in the US? Or, was it a mistake by the factory?

As part of an ongoing stereo upgrade project, I finished the speaker upgrade. I have a 2016 XLT with 6 factory speakers ( 4 door, 2 tweeters). I installed 6.5 inch 2 way speakers in the rear doors and 6.5 inch component speakers up front. I think most 6.5 inch speakers will fit the TC and there seems to be plenty of depth for the speaker magnets. I used the factory wiring. It is too much hassle to rewire the entire van even though the sound quality may be better with larger gauge wires. The stock speakers have an integral mounting ring and electrical connector. I used these plastic mounting rings to mount the new speakers. 1.First check the polarity of the speaker connections using a 9v battery (see youtube). Mark the connector because both wires are black . 2. Cut the speaker cone out of the stock speaker. You were going to save this cappy speaker only to throw it away years later. 3. Cut and grind the plastic speaker supports away from the mounting ring . Check for sizing on the new speaker. The plastic is easy to manipulate. 4. Mount the ring to the new speaker with small scews. 5. Solder two short wires from the integral connector to the new speakers. Now you have a upgraded speaker that mounts and connects like OEM. The tweeters were more work. You will have to see how your tweeters fit in the OEM bracket that has 3 locking tabs around the circumference of the tweeter. I notched my tweeter mounting ring to match the mounting tabs. I added a dab of glue to keep things from rattling. Disconnect and secure the stock connector and wire. Splice speaker wire at the back of the head unit (see other posts for wire colors). You are connecting in parallel to the wires going to each front door speaker. Install the crossovers in the void below the head unit and run wires over to each tweeter. The sound with the new speakers is significantly better than stock. The stock head unit has enough power to deliver good sound. But I need more power and will install a digital signal processor (dsp), amp and sub in the near future. I am waiting for the 2017 audio products. I will probably pre-wire the van while I am waiting. The amp will require 4 sets of speaker wires to and from the head unit. The amp and sub will need separate power wiring. So there is plenty to do while I wait.

The current generation will make the electric transition without hesitation. All of their important possessions currently run on rechargeable batteries. There will come a day where the mess and toxicity of gasoline will be a something only old guys will opine about. As an electrical engineer the future makes perfect sense to me.

Sorry, the setting I saw is in the small display controlled from the steering wheel. Settings... Lighting.....Headlamp delay. MANUAL is the first selection then 20, 40, 60 seconds. Is this the headlight on after exit delay?