Don Ridley

These are the lights I used. it looks like they are sold by Rostra now. I can't find them listed by any online sellers though. http://www.rostra.com/citelite-automotive-headliner-led-lighting-assemblies.php

http://www.rostra.com/starlight-automotive-led-lighting.php Maybe these will work.

The lights I used are discontinued. I briefly looked for similar ones without success. They mounted nicely and clearance was not a problem. They aren't extremely bright. There must be updated products with bright LEDs somewhere.

There is only one ground wire. For normal operation it must be connected to the wire that goes from 12v to GND when the doors open. I would need a separate GND on the lights for pushbutton operation. But due to location, I will never need the pushbutton function. I checked the website and these lights have been discontinued.

Do you have part numbers for the Focus and Fiesta parts?

If you have a bike rack or cargo rack, the barn doors may not open without hitting the rack. This is a problem on my full size Econoline van. No problem with the TC lift gate. The lift gate does not give you fast, easy access to the back compared to opening a small door.

No. Mine was built in April 2016 and did not need the modification. Somewhere there is a post with the mfg dates that apply.

You have done the hard work with the dynamat and all the cutting of the foam mats. Does the floor need to hard and smooth for sliding heavy loads across? Or should it be tacky and softer, maybe for sleeping or dog paw traction? It will be nice to see what works for you. How about something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/NuTek-48-in-x-120-in-Black-with-10-Eggshell-Flecks-Loose-Lay-Rubber-Sheet/50199835 You may be able to put it directly on top of the dynamat and foam cutouts. A handful of screws will keep it in place. Whatever you decide, you will no doubt install it expertly. Nice work so far.

At the risk of pointing out the obvious, I recently noticed the key start functions like a push button start on my 2016 1.6L. Once you engage the start sequence the engine will start. It is impossible to not start the engine once the starter is engaged! So my 30+ years of expertly determining when the starter can be released is now useless. Do the 2.5L engines behave the same?

For some reason only the 1.6L GTDI (SWB in USA) engine has the battery monitoring system. I assume this system will not allow the battery to be discharged below a useful voltage level. Has anyone tested this? The downside is you must have Ford reset the system when you replace the battery. All the camper conversions could benefit from this system but they did not put it in the model that was most likely to be used as a camper.

I don't think there is a cheap solution. Roof rack accessories (Thule, Yakima etc.) are expensive. At a minimum you will need 4 towers and 2 bars. You can find the exact parts required using the Thule or Yakima website, but my guess is you will spend at least $400. But there are a lot of options (aero bars etc). I think the factory Thule rack was a $250 option if ordered with the vehicle. My only advice is to decide how you will use the bars and buy the right ones. If you need all the fancy mounting devices for bikes, boats and boards, then buy the rack system (square bar, aero bar etc.) that gives you that flexibility. But if you just need bars to strap wood and ladders to, look for the old style round bar system (Yakima) and the appropriate towers. Congratulations on your new TC!

I have a love/hate relationship with the windshield "quick clear" defroster. It works great to de-fog or defrost the windshield. But the wires do defract light at night. My 2016 factory daytime running lights (DRL) operate at a reduced voltage/power. It is curios that this would have changed in 2017. It can be tricky checking the DRL intensity because of the autolamp feature (eg looking at the projection onto your garae door). Welcome to the forum.

Pictures have to be hosted on another site like Flickr. You insert the URL for the photos in your post and they are displayed on this site. There are several threads on how to do this.

There is a section on removing the headliner, but it is involved. It is probably easier to remove the plastic buttons in the middle and carefully pull it down for limited access.

I wonder if you use a thicker, dense foam or rubber mat you may not need the plywood base. http://www.americanfloormats.com/gym-mats/ There are a lot of options. I have an aversion to putting wood inside a vehicle so I would be motivated to try something else. Maybe the rubber weightlifting mats?

You may want to consider using closed cell foam exercise mat material instead of carpet. Lots of options on Amazon. Maybe glue a thin layer of padding down first to keep the mats from moving?

No extra transmission cooling. Probably due to the relatively low towing capacity. The factory tow package also includes a trailer electronic module that communicates the status of trailer lights and also activates some special anti sway safely programming. Do you know if this was included in the dealer's install?

Clever and simple. Nice.

No, the Delta Boost app is only for changing modes. The OBDII app "Torque" can display all engine parameters. I found this product on the ST forum. One of their members tested it on a dyno and confirmed it works and the engine runs perfectly. His only criticism is for a little more money you get a new tune that works even better.

Sorry, I forgot I ordered some special cable ties. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07A8CN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LYJXXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The ones with the cable tie attached come from China so delivery takes a while. The other ones are Amazon Prime and should work.

A bike that nice deserves to ride inside. Yours will fit in the LWB easily. I use the same hitch rack when I have two bikes. As you know, you prevent a lot of problems with the bike inside. The factory fills the floor voids under the front seats with Styrofoam blocks. It is light, simple and sturdy. .

For the few TC owners with 1.6L ecoboost engines there is a simple plug-in upgrade that will increase performance. The device plugs into the boost pressure sensor and allows the turbo boost pressure to be increased. The stock ecoboost tune shuts down the boost when the pressure is around 15 psi (per my brief testing). The boost module rescales the boost pressure signal so the ECU thinks 18 or 19 psi is the 14 psi shut down point. This is simple and effective. This increases torque and horsepower without modifying anything in the ECU. It leaves no warranty- voiding or emissions test-failing trace and installs in minutes. I wanted to install the Turbo Transformer, but it was out of stock and the company owner recommend a similar product by Flowmaster. I suspect Flowmaster may have purchased the technology from Turbo Transformer because the products are identical. I bought the Flowmaster Delta Boost Module. http://turbotransformer.com/ http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/performance-tuners/18102-flowmaster-delta-boost-module/?make=&year1=&model=&submodel=&engine=&category=&kw The most difficult part of the installation was locating the turbo boost pressure sensor. It is located in front of the left front wheel by the bottom of the radiator. Unplug the connector on the sensor and insert the Delta Boost Module. Tie wrap the box out of harms way. A phone app allows you to set the unit in valet, standard, sport or MAX mode. The app is clunky but it works. I made several 1/4 mile runs in various modes. THIS DATA IS NOT EXACT. The first, stock, runs were done a week prior and the other runs were on a windy day and I averaged runs to account for changes in wind and travel direction. Additionally the first run was on 87 octane and others were 91. I used an OBDII app for all measurements with the transmission in "S" mode with auto-shifting. 0-60 1/4 MILE BOOST(psi) Stock (87octane) 9.4 17.3 14.5 STANDARD mode 10.07 18.1 MAX mode 9.0 17.0 19.2 It is clear from driving the van that the extra boost increases horsepower and torque. I have driven about 2 weeks in the SPORT mode and it gives the van a noticeable boost without requiring 91 octane (Flow master warns that MAX mode must use 91). There is no pinging or other problems from using the module because the ECU properly controls all the functions required to properly run the engine. This modification gives you measurable gains. I have no desire to modify the tune, or the exhaust or the air intake but this modification is easy, effective and quickly reversible. FYI, I did not do a lot of test runs due to safety and logistic issues. Plus, I don't care about the exact numbers, I only wanted to see if there were relative, measurable differences. Now if Ford would only bring back the 1.6L engine to the US Transit Connect market....

Dbv, I thought about documenting all the LEDs I installed, but there are too many subjective variables. LEDs have color, angle, power and size choices. A cheap batch from Amazon or eBay will not work better then the incandescents. Go to superbrightleds and you will see the vast array of choices. You need different lights based on location. The dome lights need high lumens and wide light angle. The map lights should have a narrow beam etc. But this is my opinion/requirement and I don't think everyone will be as picky as me. Buy a couple different ones for the dome lights and see how you like them. Then move them to the other locations to see how they work. Use the technical data from the superbrightleds website to make subsequent choices. You don't need canbus lights for the interior lights.

Replacing the battery in the 1.6L TC is worse: the dealer has to reset the battery monitor. This function controls power so you can't run the battery dead...Or so they claim. Maybe someone knows a way to reset this without having Ford hardware and software.