Don Ridley

Thanks. That's great info. Sync3 seems to be the key option. Removing the cluster is very easy. Pop the bottom trim piece by pulling straight toward you. There are tabs on each side going into the dash. Remove the top cover also by pulling (and slight wiggle) straight toward you. 2 tabs in the back by the windshield and 2 in front on the cluster. (4) t15 torx screws hold the cluster. Looking at the cluster dimensions and doing some math, you will probably need to raise the top of the cluster 5mm. This will also raise the cover. Maybe you can shim the 4 anchor points enough. You may have to mess with the clips going into the cluster if the angle changes too much. But the cover won't be flush with the dash. I need to ask a big favor....can you get the part number ( FT1T- xxxx) off the back of your cluster? This is key for my search. Tab slots on top are for the top cover.

I am trying to upgrade the instrument cluster on my 2016 TC XLT. Most 2014-2017 TCs have a monochrome center display between the speedo and tach. Titanium trim vehicles usually have a larger, color LCD display. I thought I could use color LCD Focus cluster and had limited success. The cluster worked, but it did not fit exactly. The bezels around the speedo and tach on the TC are very deep and this makes the Focus and Escape cluster incompatible. Too bad because these clusters are readily available at salvage yards for about $50. Attached are photos of my Focus experiment and an actual 2016 Titanium trim TC cluster (from a vehicle on Autotrader). So, I need to find a used cluster from a 2016 TC Titanium. I will work the internet and salvage company sites. If anyone has a lead on this very rare part, please let me know. Buying it from a dealer is not an option because it costs around $450 with a $300 core charge (another case where Ford does not want you to upgrade your vehicle). I think the part number I am looking for is FT1Z-10849-F. Plus, I am not 100% sure I can get the configuration file (IPC As Built) to work properly so I don't want to spend a fortune on something that won't work.

Check a local dismantler. They should have them by the dozens. Focus, Escape and other cars should have similar jacks. Take some measurements for the storage location and/or check Ford part numbers on line to see if they are the same.

Like this: OCVWYIPIPK4

You are correct Fifty. The programming in the various modules can only be updated via a dealer. But it may be possible to reset the learned settings. The transmission learns how to shift based on your driving style (or so the manual says). Forscan may be able to reset these learned settings.

I looked in the service manual for PCM/TCM reset info. I could only find instructions on performing the adaptive learning drive cycle. The troubleshooting instructions for a hard shift seem to involve hardware issues only. The transmission is controlled by the PCM and TCM. There were instructions on how to reset the keep alive memory in the PCM but this would affect all the engine operating parameters so maybe this is not good idea. You can try searching the Forscan forum for info on resetting the PCM or TCM. Attached is the info from the service manual. trans adaptive learn cycle.pdf transmission shift problems.pdf

Another thing to check is your battery. Low voltage has done some strange things. One Focus owner said his wipers would turn on for no reason and a bad battery was the cause.

Here are the rear wiper schematics. The rear wiper relay is in the battery junction box (BJB). The rear wiper operation: The BCM sends a signal to the wiper motor (blue wire). The motors turns and trips the internal switch that provides constant power to the motor independent of the BCM signal. As the wiper returns to the "park" position the switch opens and if the BCM does not send another "on" signal the wipers stop in the "park" position. So, if your wipers continue to run either the BCM is sending a constant "on" signal (by pulling the relay to GND) or the wiper relay is stuck in the "on" position. Or, as you suspect there could be a grounding problem somewhere. Worst case, you need to replace the BCM ($$$$). Good Luck! wiper barn doors.pdf wiper main.pdf bjb.pdf

According to my 2016 schematics, power for the rear wipers is supposed to turn off when the key is not in the start or run position. Maybe yours is different? There is a relay in the engine compartment that operates the wipers and this may be the item that is temperature sensitive. Let me know if you want to look into this and I can post the schematics.

There have been several posts about this. Try searching the forum. I know they covered various install kits etc.

Installing a better Ford head unit (SYNC 1) would be very complicated and expensive. This assumes you want all the factory functions. It's much easier and cheaper to install an aftermarket head unit and backup camera. Some would say this is better than OEM since the head unit can have many features.

Welcome. The wipers are controlled by the main ECU, the Body Control Module. The dealer should be able to troubleshoot this. There may be DTCs identifying the possible cause. As with all electronics and programming, issues, some auto repair technicians suck. There are many pages of troubleshooting steps in the service manual just for the wipers.

The line converter needs to handle the power coming from the head unit, 20w.

The crossovers will fit nicely under the head unit (see photo below). Here's the controversial advice: use the existing wiring for the mids in the doors. My system outputs 100+W/channel and it sounds great with the factory wiring. Wiring for mids and tweeters will not carry the same current as subwoofer wiring (for any style music). This may help ease your mind: https://www.cambridgeaudio.com/usa/en/blog/speaker-cables You need to run new wiring for the tweeters because they are connected in parallel to the mids. A capacitor on the factory tweeter filters out the lower frequencies. Here's the basic speaker wiring tasks: 1. Run 2 sets of line level wires from the head unit to the amp. 2. Convert from line level to low level inputs. 3. Connect low level inputs to the amp. 4. Run 2 sets of amplified outputs back to the head unit and connect to the crossovers. 5. Run 2 sets of filtered (crossover) outputs from each crossover to the tweeter and mid range speakers. Due to the number of wires I recommend 16GA max for the runs to and from the head unit and amp. The tweeter wiring is easy to run in the A pillars. Using the existing wiring and plugs for the doors will save hours of work and keep from having an exposed wire stretched across the door jam opening. This is what I used. It solved a lot of problems and the DSP is awesome. But it took my initial $150 speaker upgrade project into the $1500+ project category. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/d-4800/

Yes, the Autoease salesman said the liftgate button on the keyfob will open the liftgate. Now we just have to wait for the kit to be available and hope it's not $$$$

This explains how to remove the door please panels. These tools are invaluable. https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3KNOVEW4AJFYE&keywords=door+panel+removal+tool+kit&qid=1553878200&s=gateway&sprefix=door+pan&sr=8-3

I upgraded the speakers and it made a big difference in the sound quality. I remember I could play them louder than the stock ones because they could handle the 20w from the head unit. If you have the lower end head unit you definitely need to replace everything. Otherwise, new speakers may be enough of an upgrade. For me the speaker upgrade was temporary and I eventually spent crazy money on new equipment.

I was planning on asking the vendor. I don't know if the key sends a signal when that trunk release button is pushed.

The truth is none of us really know. There was a previous discussion on this with different opinions. Your aftermarket hitch can handle the extra weight. At some point the vehicle handling will be affected.

I contacted this company: https://www.autoease.com/product/liftgate/ They will have a liftgate kit for the TC next month. But it looks like the factory welded bracket(s) for the struts need to removed and replaced with reinforced brackets.

Get a scan tool so you can read the DTCs associated with the ABS light. The Forscan Lite app works well (about $10). You will also need a cheap elm 327 adapter w/bluetooth ( about $30, many work for the simple scanner functions, more expensive ones needed for programming changes). Do a YouTube search for info. Now you have a tool you can use for almost every repair on your TC. You will no longer have to buy a bunch of electrical parts to find out which one is bad. If you do all your own maintenance and troubleshooting you will use the scan tool many times.

Ford dealership across the country have proven to be inept at any software changes in the TC. It's very unlikely they will add options not originally available. They rarely can add options that are part of the TC package. This is a problem because 90% of the vehicle's performance is dependent on software, not hardware any more.

Windguy, Yes. Someone on the forum found the version number of the BCM firmware that works with this modification. Mine is the version just before it was implemented and my build date is early 2016. A mororcraft website will give you programming info on all modules from a VIN. See the discussion about this mod and it should have all the details. Let me know if you can't find it and I can help