Don Ridley

The OBDLink is just the communication device. You will need a PC or smartphone app to do anything. Torque Pro and Forscan Lite are on my phone.

I bought this one Astro Pneumatic Tool 1442 13" Hand Rivet Nut Setter Kit - Metric & SAE W/ 60pc Rivnuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M9FLDbE442X5J Another use on the TC is to install new nuts to raise the license plate on liftgate models.

I also use the OBDLink MX. I have not had any problems. I leave it plugged in.

This is how every expensive stereo upgrade starts...

The Focus RS guys are also looking for a vendor that will easily ship to the US. The previous Ford supplier they used stopped shipping to the US. Looks like Ford does not want us to get parts made for other markets.

After looking at the ground stud I underestimated the surface area of the ground bolt-to-lug connection. A washer increases the contact area so it is approximately the same as the contact area of the bolt and nut that mount to the frame. So, the original design is adequate and the only gain in sanding paint off the frame would be a backup to deterioration of the nut and bolt connection. FYI, I was more careful when I sanded the frame. I don't have any bare metal showing when the lug is attached.

I evaluated the connections between the ground strap and the painted frame ground mount. The lug and the cable make good contact by a cylinder-in-cylinder connection and a crimp. The ground bolt and the frame nut are also a cylinder-in-cylinder connection (slight loss in contact due to threads). Both the cable/lug and bolt are about the same diameter so why is the bolt a bad connection? The problem is the only contact between the lug (and all the power in the cable) and the bolt are on the bottom of the bolt head. I estimated some dimensions and calculated the surface area of electrical contact for each connection. The more contact area, the better the connection. Contact surface area of ground bolt and nut (cylinder-in-cylinder) = 226 mm2 Contact surface area of the bottom of the bolt head = 69 mm2 All the current has to flow through only 69 mm2 of metal to metal contact. If you sand the paint off the frame you will greatly increase the contact area. Contact surface area of sanded connection = 209 mm2 + 69 mm2 = 278 mm2 The sanded connection can carry much more current for a longer time than the painted connection. Sanding this connection increased the contact area by a factor of 3. All these numbers are approximate but shows there are measurable gains to this modification.

The RS and ST guys got into a long discussion that became too technical. This photo simplifies things. The surface in contact with the lug on the cable should not be painted if electrical conductivity is most important.

Adding SYNC would be a project. There are no specific instructions. You need to find an APIM module from a SYNC donor vehicle. Then you need to research settings in Forscan to make it work. Lots of Google searches and studying configuration from other vehicles. This is a project for someone who wants a challenge, not someone who just wants SYNC.

I think you need some version of SYNC to have Bluetooth. My SYNC1 system has SYNC settings in the menu (menu button). Here's a photo. To add SYNC to your TC is possible but complicated. Easier to add an aftermarket head unit.

You may be able to find a Focus or Fiesta enthusiast in your area that has used Forscan and will help you.

*SOLD*

I bought this used Focus light switch assembly as part of an experiment for another project. The trunk release button unlatched the liftgate on my 2016. It should work on 2014-2016 and maybe 17-19. The only use for this is when camping. You can open the liftgate without going outside (yes, you have to crawl past the driver's seat). I don't need this switch and will sell it for $5 plus shipping. Just send me a PM. FYI, you can source your own from a local dismantler. Should be.less than $30.

Yes, that wire will work. But 14 ga is overkill and I personally have a problem with aluminum (copper clad aluminum:CCA) wire. I would buy real copper wire. The leftover wire will be high quality and can be used on future projects without reservation. Something like this 16 ga wire by Monoprice https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Choice-Gauge-Conductor-Speaker/dp/B001UNLTVK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1PIW5WCAU30NF&keywords=monoprice+speaker+wire+16+gauge&qid=1568169616&s=wireless&sprefix=monoprice+speaker+wire+16%2Cmobile%2C184&sr=1-4

Here is the ACM configuration options for the speakers (2014-????). Not sure if this applies to your 2019. There are different versions of the ACM for HD radio and Sony premium but I don't know if there are 2 ch and 4ch speaker versions. I upgraded to a HD version. I found the pre-amp output setting did not work on the non-Sony ACM. There are other ACM settings found in the F150 Forscan spreadsheet. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/htmlview

1. Crimp the connector closed 2. Solder the connection 3. Use better wire and crimp connectors

You should be able to configure the ACM with Forscan.

It looks dead. I have sent several emails without a response.

I should have noted that I don't know any details about the new 2.0l engine. Check the owners manual to see if you need to reset BMS with a new battery.

Only the 1.6l Ecoboost has the battery monitoring system. The BMS needs to be reset with a new battery on these vehicles only. The 2.5l does not need require any updates with a new battery.

Here's the electrical diagram. The wipers are controlled by signals on the medium speed LIN network (similar to Can bus). You may need a scanner to read status codes for the wipers. Forscan is an option. Otherwise, a trip to the dealer may be necessary. wiper motor.pdf

Yes and no.... Read the RS forum post. Then read some of the ST forum post (link in the RS post). Some have claimed it cured poor idle and other things. Some say it made no difference. But the ground is weak since it relies on bolt and nut thread contact only. Removing the paint probably is all that's necessary. No electrician would ever make a connection to a painted surface without removing the paint.

I removed the paint under the main ground lug and two other grounds under the air box. I added a 2ft ground cable from the main lug to an unused hole under the air box (similar to the Focus mods). I coated the bare metal with Corrosion X. The discussions about harmonics, inductance and ground loops missed the point that up to 100+ amps needs to flow though the lug and into the negative terminal of the battery. These mods ensure this can happen without any problems.

Nice work. Glad it was an easy fix once the problem was found.

There's a forum post about manuals from factory-manuals.com. I am using one. Here's another diagram.