Don Ridley

It should be in the roof above the windshield.

The interior door handle is connected to the latch via a cable. Either the cable or latch is broken. Remove the door panel and inspect the handle and cable on the inside.

There is a button on the driver's door that locks out the back windows. Do you have this button pressed?

If you get a scan tool or obd2 reader you can see the coolant temperature and the fan command status (scan tool only). This will tell you if the fans are supposed to be on but won't tell you how to fix them.

Here's the door module communication connections. The rear door module communicates on a LIN bus, not CAN bus. The DTCs seem to show the door locks did not respond to a "lock" command. The DTCs are not time stamped so it could have occurred at any time. Some will eventually disappear. Clear it and see if it returns. You can safely reset the BCM with Forscan. But this never seems to fix anything. Do NOT do any relearn functions. If the window does not respond the local switch or the master driver's door switch, I think the door module is bad. You can measure the voltage change from the local switch. window_sw_module comm.pdf

You need to check the "rear door module". Attached is the electrical connection diagram. If the module is damaged you can buy a used one like this (this is for the right side): https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-2017-FORD-TRANSIT-CONNECT-REAR-RIGHT-PASSENGER-SIDE-DOOR-CONTROL-MODULE-OEM/202591178986?epid=22024818468&hash=item2f2b6010ea:g:WvYAAOSwH6lcXNPX Get the correct part number (F1ET...) off your module and do a Google search. I don't know if the modules are plug-n-play. If you have to upload the module configuration you will need to use Forscan. Forscan can also read the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and it may tell you the point of failure. There is a learning curve with Forscan (to make programming changes) but you can easily use it (PC or phone app) to read status codes. Removing the door panel is not too difficult. Use plastic removal tools to keep from breaking the tabs. The Styrofoam vapor barrier is removed by pulling on the edge until the black butyl rubber spreads into a thin film. Cut the butyl rubber with a razor blade as you continue to gently pull the vapor barrier off the door. Re-install by simply pressing the two lines of butyl rubber back together. DO NOT cut the vapor barrier. https://forscan.org/ read door module_left.pdf

Question/suggestion: Could a bad bearing cause this symptom? The rear axles don't see stress against the bearing except when braking due to front wheel drive. Maybe the sound is coming from a bearing?

Finally those who were led to believe that science and math are a matter of opinion will see that frequently there is only one truth. Nobody's opinion in this crisis matters. Biology and epidemiology will determine the outcome. Be smart. Follow science. It has no ulterior motives. We can revive an economy. Dead parents, grandparents or friends will remain dead... forever.

Since the dome light works, I think the door switch (integral to the latch) is good. The door module sends messages over the MS-CAN about the lock status, door switch status etc.. The MS-CAN wiring should be OK since the lights work. So something is not sending or receiving messages about the other functions: door chime, door ajar etc. The Body Comm Module (BCM) processes all information regarding interior switches and instrumentation. You may have a problem in the BCM or the door module. This may be a problem only a dealership can fix (especially if they need to reflash the BCM or door module).

Yeah I'm home for the foreseeable future (California). Working from home sucks. I trying to dream up a good project. Maybe I'll buy an Arduino and make it blink some LEDs or other frivolous functions.

There may be a problem with the door module. Connect a scan tool to see if there are any error codes. Maybe it's just the door switch. Do the lights go on and off? Do you get a door open message when the engine is running?

Probably a Transit. But funny either way.

http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/four-vans-fight-in-one-of-the-slowest-drag-races-ever/ar-BB113nwJ?ocid=ientp

Forscan is hacked software developed by Ford enthusiasts in Russia. It's used primarily by F150 guys but works on most Ford's. https://forscan.org/home.html

Or, try this: https://www.focusst.org/threads/windshield-wipers.12338/

You will need a scan tool to read the DTCs. Forscan can do this and also reset modules. If this is too much trouble, you will need to visit a dealership to get this corrected.

Here is the Forscan procedure. TC and Focus are there same for this function. Maybe the calibration will reset whatever is causing the problem? I don't know. Forscan has a learning curve and you need an adapter. Details are discussed in this forum and any Focus forum.

There is a calibration function for the wipers in Forscan. I will look for a more generic method.

Here are the details on installing the electric liftgate. The Autoease product is well made. Hopefully my documentation will help. The only problem with this product/project is the Autoease device that provides the final close/latch motion is not easy to install on a TC. I did not install this movable strike plate and motor. The liftgate closes but if all windows and other doors are closed, the increase in air pressure keeps the liftgate from fully latching. I need to lightly push the door closed at the end of the arc. This is not a deal breaker for me since the biggest problem with the stock liftgate was unlatching it, then having to step back so it didn't hit you. Then, closing required a big tug and you had to "ride it" all the way down to make sure it latched. Now I can start the opening sequence as I walk up to the vehicle. Closing is not a big problem because you can start the sequence, then open the front door and wait for it to latch before you drive away. Art worst, you need to wait for the motor to close it and provide a light push just before it latches. See the attached install and operating instructions. Contact me if you have any questions. Don electric liftgate Insructions.pdf

As GBL said, you need a scan tool to troubleshoot problems like this. The cheap option is using an adapter and the free software Forscan. Scan tools can reset modules and read trouble codes (not just check engine light codes).

Is that light from a newer TC? What year? Maybe it communicates on the CanBus to control the lights.

The heated windshield has a grid of very small wires across the entire windshield. You can see it if you look closely. It was an option on my XLT. At first the grid bugged me but I got used to it. It clears the windshield in less than 2 minutes. The heater does not stay on very long so the windshield does not get hot. It will not affect suction cups or stickers.

The gas struts are applying very strong pressure even when the door is closed. If they don't wiggle or rattle when the door is open they are probably not the issue.

HD radio update: The HD radio works but the small display is not programmed to display the HD radio status. I learned that some stations have HD 1 and HD 2 stations on the same frequency. I tuned to one station, 94.7 and got the normal station in HD. Then I pressed the + tuner button once. It switched to a new station but the display still shows 94.7. This must be the HD 2 station. I stored both and can navigate to them with the presets. So it is possible to tune to the secondary HD stations. But you need to know they exist because they don't always tune in immediately and it takes several tries to initially acquire them.

The slots on the sides are for USB cables.