Don Ridley

There is a chip in the key that is read by the ignition switch. You would need a key with the proper chip and program the vehicle to recognize it. I assume a 2014-2019 type key would work, but I don't know for sure.

Here is info on what will fit

Sound deadening provides diminishing returns after about 50% coverage. About 75% coverage provides optimal results. Of course 100% coverage yields the best possible results but it is unlikely you could tell the difference between 75 and 100%. You could spend hours reading about this and go down some forum rat-holes where this is hotly debated...So apply as much as your budget allows ?

Seems like the vehicle thinks it is very cold outside. Start/stop on some vehicles is disabled when it's cold (not sure about the TC). Does your outside temperature read correctly (assuming you have a display)? I'm guessing the temperature sensor is faulty.

Great find Fifty. I have an air compressor so the deflation method works for me. But I will probably buy the tool anyway.

The light has probably failed and needs to be replaced. Is your light an LED unit?

The APIM module runs SYNC. Yours may have sensed a fault and shut down. Maybe it took a while for the module to reset...? You can force a reset on all modules by disconnecting the battery for about 10-15 minutes. If you have a scan tool you can read the DTCs that were triggered by the event. Otherwise, just wait for it to happen again and pull the codes. FYI, DTCs are not check engine light codes and you need a real scan tool, not the ones you can borrow from the auto parts store.

Several configurations depending on the SYNC version. ACM wiring diagrams (2020_07_16 14_49_21 UTC).pdf

There is no difference between using the chassis or the negative terminal on the battery. The battery terminal is not easily accessible and a ground lug is right next to the battery box.

A standard LED draws 20mA. Low power LEDs can be around 2mA. The cigarette lighter USB adapters should not kill a healthy car battery. But the devices plugged into it can draw significant current that may deplete a battery.

I don't know if the 2020s are different, but you can't add or change items to the display on the previous models. The cluster programming does not support this. The only changes you can make is adding features like cruise control and DRL using Forscan or IDS. Even these are limited by the model year programming in the cluster.

The remote window-up function is commonly called global window. The option is somewhere in the BdyCm (main) section. You need one touch power windows on all doors for it to work.

You do not need to purchase a Forscan license to use the scan tool function of the software. You only need a license if you want to make configuration changes to your vehicle like adding cruise control.

Yes, it should work. Cruise control should be the same for every country. Forscan does not show different country options for cruise control. Buy a steering wheel for/from a 2017.

What were the DTCs? Here is one problem that was caused by damaged reluctor rings on the abs wheel sensors Determining the cause from the DTCs can be difficult and this is where an experienced mechanic has an advantage over us internet hounds.

Me either...until now. The sparking was loud and worrisome. The next time I removed the ground stud I connected a jumper wire to maintain the connection. Probably nothing to worry about. Just an FYI.

The ground connection will also spark when connecting/disconnecting.

Forscan is best known for it's ability to make changes to the configuration of your Ford (add cruise control, turn off DRL etc). But it is also a good, free scan tool. Here is one tutorial on Forscan. Don't worry about the programming change instructions. http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573

You need a scan tool that is more than a OBDII code reader. The readers at the auto parts store are probably the basic OBDII devices. A real scan tool will show diagnostic codes (that don't trigger check engine lights) and real time data for hundreds of variables. Look up Forscan in this or any other Ford vehicle forum. It is what you need and you can get setup for under $100.

The transmission adaptive learning table can be reset with Forscan or IDS. This clears the learned shift points based on the previous driving style. But I don't know if it solves any problems. I also don't know if there are any side effects.

The bushing on my 2016 is white. I think it is the newer version. At least I know where to look if it fails. Plus it is clean and should be ok unless heat is also a problem.

The speedo is related to ABS because speed is calculated by wheel revolutions. ABS monitors wheel revolutions also. Unfortunately, even with good diagnostic tools (scan tool, Forscan etc.), you may be stuck taking this to a dealer to fix. If Forscan shows a communication fault with the ABS module for example, you still don't know how to fix it. Replacing modules on your own is complicated if not impossible.

Regardless of what brand or type of wax you use, you must buy a tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002EQ96MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_DJ41Fb9YWW12V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Harbor Freight has their version for about $80. You should buy a couple of the Chemical Guysa application pads: https://www.chemicalguys.com/hex-logic-6.5-best-of-the-best-buffing-pads-everything-kit-8-items/BUF_HEXKITS_8.html?&gclid=CjwKCAiAt9z-BRBCEiwA_bWv-Nlw8cwmS61ytjwJ3s_aCXTKLz18rrAoka9LTfbXEFtLw-qppOiCchoCklIQAvD_BwE This tool allows you to polish and wax effortlessly. So even reapplying wax every couple of months is not a problem. Never wax a van by hand again! I use Meguiars polishing compound to clean dull spots and finish with Meguiars cleaner wax. Works well for my white van.

Yes. Speed is calculated from tire size and number of revolutions. This data bit is sent to the IPC on the MS CAN and displayed. There is no resolution loss or calibration needed. Any calibration is done in the tire size data field. I did some research and also took apart the original IPC. The only adjustment you can make on the analog speedo is to change the starting point of the pointer. This is very tedious and requires disassembling the unit. Basically you carefully note the current ) mph position and determine how far it needs to move. Pry off the needle without changing it's position and reinstall in the new location. The shaft on the needle is not keyed. The IPC will reset the needle to the 0 mph position every key cycle. If your speed error increases with speed I have not found any way to fix or adjust this.