Don Ridley

Car-part.com has a lot to choose from. You should call them on the phone because many junkyards don't use the internet too much and are small operations. Plus you can request a photo to ensure you are getting the right part. I did a quick search and found some from $55-100. I don't know the difference in the screens. The bottom one matches my 2016 (and also 2014 and 2015) cluster. It definitely looks like a TC cluster because it shows a van instead of a car. The top one may be a newer version because the color cluster became standard on all TCs in 2018 or 2019.***EDIT** this is incorrect. 2019 is a different style**** FYI, only the Titanium trim TCs from 2014-2016 had color clusters but the leather steering wheel was available on the XLT. You need a 2014, right?

I am trying to determine if daytime running lights (DRL) are configurable from the menu in the center of the cluster. This is possible on Escape and other Fords but not on my 2016 TC. Please check the settings menu and let me know if you have a setting for daytime running lights. I only need to know if it exists and what your trim level is. For example: YES, 2019 XLT Thank you!

The safe answer is: I don't know. During my research I looked at the configuration data on some Escape clusters and I recall it was very similar. But in the world of computers "almost the same" is not good enough. You really need to find a cluster from a TC. The Focus cluster is not the same size and won't fit properly. The only reason I tried one was it was cheap and I was experimenting. If you need help finding a TC cluster in the US I can help. Let me know

Nice fix for under $50. Good write up.

HD radio has better audio quality. Plus there are extra radio stations. There can be two or three stations per FM frequency. Most of the extra stations are niche music. I can hear the sound difference between normal and HD radio but I have a nice sound system. The station ID/song information was affected when I installed the HD radio ACM with an improper configuration. I fixed the configuration for HD stations but now the non-HD stations don't have ID info (I think it called RDS). Some other forums complain about Ford's implementation of station ID in the ACM and how there are problems across the product line. Apparently ACMs after 2018 work better for station ID. I don't know if these 2018 ACMs will work in older Transit Connects. You can find HD ACMs for under $100.

You should be able to remove the bottom plastic panel. Then apply 12V to the liftgate latch motor. See attached. liftagte wiring (2020_04_04 01_55_33 UTC).pdf liftgate panel removal (2020_04_04 01_55_33 UTC).pdf

I have a 2016 with the base SYNC 1.1 system and a standard AM/FM radio. I upgraded to an HD radio. I did not activate the SAT radio. Here are the basic steps. This upgrade is rare because most people want SYNC 3 and they upgrade to that technology. I don’t need SYNC 3 but I wanted HD radio after I upgraded my audio system. You only need to change a few settings. The changes outlined below assume you do NOT have SAT radio (this should be true because you could not buy only HD radio w/o SAT). 1. Find a used HD radio (the unit is the ACM, audio control module). They are common and it appears the 2014 to 2017(maybe later) TCs used the exact same units. The firmware in the HD radios did not change so don’t worry about buying a unit from an older or newer model year TC. Old standard ACM part number: DT1T-19C107-AF New HD/SAT radio ACM: DT1T-19C107-CE through CJ 2. Use Forscan to change the as-built data in the ACM to delete SAT radio and add HD radio. 727-01-01 7000 2C00…… change to: F000 2C00 3. Change the APIM configuration to add HD radio and no SAT radio. 7D0-01-01 11A7 8840…….change to: 11A4 F840 4. Change the FCDIM configuration. 7A5-01-01 0222 0008…..change to: 0222 0009 Old ACM, non-HD New HD ACM

According to this block diagram, the APIM is not installed (I think) if you don't have any of the "green" box items/functions. If the ACM is bad, you can get one used for under $100...but it also needs to be programmed (configured) to your vehicle unless it came out of a TC that had the same trim levels and options. Your Ford dealer can easily connect their computer to the TC and see what modules are installed and firmware and configuration file version. I assumed they did this during the diagnosis and found error messages related to the APIM. Apparently not. They shouldn't have to guess about any of this. APIM.pdf

I'm doing some experimenting with the APIM. I bought a used one for my 2016 TC for $75 shipped. This gives me a cheap test unit in case I do some damage in my experiments. It's ridiculous how much Ford wants to replace these things. There is big aftermarket for people that want to upgrade from SYNC1,2 to SYNC3, but not for normal repairs/replacement.

Maybe a good independent repair shop can reflash a used APIM. Probably not....

Since you don't have SYNC, I think your best option is to install an aftermarket radio. Finding the right used APIM for your trim level will be difficult and the possibility of it not working or needing programming is very high. Plus, you don't want the hassle and liability of working on your own vehicle. For reference, I have used this online junkyard search to find parts: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market After some trial and error on the search function I came up with lots of hits on SYNC modules but many were from a Focus and probably won't work in a TC without programming. The guys at any junkyard won't be experts on all the different module versions and firmware versions. They only know if part numbers match or don't. Note the APIM controls other functions like the backup camera so you need it to work.

This is a complicated question/problem that I have am also trying to figure out. First: I hope the dealer is correct in the diagnosis. The ACM is cheap and easy to find. Second: You need to know if you have Sync 1. Do you have the small color screen in the middle of the dash? See attached photo. The APIM must have the correct firmware and configuration file. The dealer will buy a blank APIM and load the firmware and configuration. The part number CHANGES (e.g. Ford will install a different part number than your original APIM) every model year and your exact APIM will not be listed on any Ford parts site. If you are motivated you may be able to find a junkyard APIM for around $100 with the right firmware and configuration. I recommend removing your APIM and note the part numbers on the module. Use this and the trim level of your van to search online junkyards for the same year and trim level (especially SYNC level) van that has been wrecked. The junkyard should have a photo of the APIM and you can compare the part numbers. Your APIM and configuration may be simple and common enough to find easily. This may be a tedious search. But you may be able to save a ton of money. Let me know if you are interested and I can give you a couple of good online junkyard resources. FYI, I was wondering about updating the firmware but it's complicated. Here is a screenshot of all the files in my simple Sync 1 APIM. The firmware files are impossible to find and you need to use Forscan to upload the firmware and hopefully not brick your APIM

Do you have any accessories running (fan, AC...etc)? Did the shop scan for any codes? You may have to drive it until it gets bad enough to diagnose.

Probably a bad light or connection. The third brake light is an LED so it can have intermittent failure unlike an incandescent light. I changed my brake lights to LED without any issues. I eventually switched back to incandescent bulbs because I think they are brighter due to the tail light housing and reflector design.

That is a jack nut. They don't require a special tool to install like rivnuts.

I agree that it would take a significant misfire to cause hard idling. The rear engine/transmission mount greatly dampens vibrations. I installed a hard rubber performance-type mount and this created unacceptable vibration and rattle at idle. This motor mount is very easy to inspect and change. Two bolts are easy to access once the vehicle is raised. Look for broken rubber in the center section.

No. There is barely 9 feet between the back to the front windows. If you could somehow suspend the board it would hit the driver and passenger. The armrest would be in the way if the board was suspended on it's side.

Check for misfires using a scan tool. You may have an ignition problem that can be solved with plugs and/or coil packs.

This may help. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/8941-p71-cop-car-style-hub-caps-on-a-transit-connect/?tab=comments#comment-35812

Floor removal/footwell info

There are 4 brackets for each seat. They are recessed and welded in place. It's hard to see with the carpet installed. The foot well area has been discussed in several posts where people have made use of the space. I think a cover plate is easily removed. Here are a couple of photos. Ideally you can borrow a passenger van (wagon) to get a better look. Maybe rent one for a day? Finding a junked wagon locally will be difficult. They are not common.

All car doors have drain holes. You won't see a removable drain plug. There are various types of slats and holes so look for any openings on the bottom. Use compressed air to blow out the opening. Otherwise you have to remove the door panel and service the door drains from the inside.

They probably don't monitor this forum. Per their post: Call Ursa Minor at 619-424-9030 or email us at info@ursaminorvehicles.com

It would not be simple. The mounting brackets may be difficult to install. You also would need to open the foot well. Your best bet would be to get all the parts from a salvaged vehicle. My guess is this project would require a high level of skills and tools.

The hook screws into the socket. It's needed because there are no strong frame parts easily accessible. So if you are stuck in the snow or mud the hook allows safe retrieval. Look at the bumper on most cars and you will see a square pop-out piece. This is for a recovery hook.