Don Ridley

Just be careful with the switch. I don't think it has clean contacts (also called dry contacts). Closing the switch sends a CAN message to the network. If the contacts are ok, you can find time delay relay circuits on Amazon (I have used a couple). They are versatile and easy to program. You may find it difficult to fish wires into the door panels. My TC has a block or plug at the door jam junction with the flexible rubber boot. I can't fish wires through the boot into the door. Wiring and connectors will be the most challenging part of going OEM. Configuration of the BCM (if needed) is easy with Forscan.

The manual shows the speaker location does not change with different models or configuration. The Forscan mobile app will show all error codes and you can read all data points (PIDs). You just can't make any configuration or programming changes.

I'm pretty sure it does not. Nothing I have seen in the drawings or Forscan indicates this must be programmed or configured. But I have never replaced one.

Here is information and wiring diagrams for the heated mirrors. The "door modules" referenced are the driver and passenger door modules DDM, PDM. You need these for heated mirrors. The door modules get a CAN message from the BCM to activate the mirror heaters. Of course the heaters need to be connected to the modules. You know you have door modules if your power windows have the one-touch up/down feature. The modules are located in the top front of the doors. htd mirror operation.pdf mirror wiring.pdf htd mirror 2.pdf This post shows the DDM.

This may be more involved than you expected. The switch send signals to the body control module (BCM) and the BCM sends power to the defroster and mirrors. The BCM has programming that may need to be configured or activated. I'll look for the wiring diagrams but the configuration may require Forscan (see posts on this forum) and some research or trial and error testing. The good old days of a switch sending power directly to a relay are gone. Everything goes through a module and switches send network messages (they really aren't switches as we used to know) to the computer modules.

The latch mechanism contains the switch the identifies the door status. You probably need to replace the latch assembly.

Adding SYNC (version 1 or 3) will be complicated and expensive. You would need modules, microphone and wiring harnesses. Even if you source the parts from a junkyard it's likely to cost over $300. Then you would have to figure out the programming (configuration) needed for the modules and buy a Forscan adapter and license ($75). I don't think this is worth the effort when you have an aftermarket option that will be much easier and cheaper.

Here's the procedure for 2016 TC strut removal and installation. strut.pdf

This recall was recently expanded to include all TC models and engines. My 1.6L now shows the recall is active. But I had already purchased the parts and installed them.

You would have to reprogram the ECU using Ford IDS (dealership) or Forscan (free software). It's probably easier to find the bad switch that is triggering the alarm

Look for an independent shop that can program PCMs (they have the software etc). They will have experience with these types of problems. Ford has a database for the "as built" configuration for every vehicle. This is easy to get. If the PCM is from the same model year the firmware is likely the same. Uploading your TCs configuration file is easy with Forscan. But I don't know if the ignition security/key codes (called PATS) is in the PCM on your TC. Forscan can recode PATS on most older vehicles (like yours). I suggest your source a used PCM and also a shop that will take on this repair. Then....IF.... you are adventurous and want to save money you can research Forscan and the PATS issue (on the Forscan forum) and try to install the PCM yourself. If you fail you can take it to the shop. I don't recommend a dealership because they like to install new parts only and don't usually have the initiative or desire to find clever solutions. Plus they are very expensive. Good luck.

Nice to hear there are no obvious problems. My supposition is there is not enough lead in the 1 1/2 gallons of racing fuel to cause measurable damage to the catylytic converter. I don't know the mechanism (coating, reaction etc.) that damages the CAT. The surface area of the CAT is very large and I doubt a very low concentration of lead for a short period of time can effectively kill the CAT.

Nobody here has researched compatibility with other Ford models. One person tried using a Tansit (full size van) steering wheel and it did not work. If you like the styling of a Focus wheel, then maybe it's worth trying becasue Focus "may" work (TC built on the Focus architecture). But I don't know. There are plenty of TC steering wheels avaialble at online junk yards. car-part.com

A new PCM will need to be programmed with the proper firmware and vehicle configuration (VIN etc). I don't know the details on how to do this. Maybe use Forscan or Ford IDS. Have you searched online salvage yards? Try car-part.com. But I doubt any PCM will be plug and play.

There are posts here about upgrading speakers and adding an amp. It's up to you to decide how much is enough. My opinion is speakers first....see how you like it, then add an amp.

This drawing shows the backup lights have: blue/white= + backup signal black/blue= ground FOE and FNA designate North America (FNA) and Europe models (FOE). There is a differenct connector number for the FOE/FNA models but the wire color is the same.

This function is called Global Opening. I think it only works if all windows have one-touch opening/closing. You can activate Global Closing with Forscan (Global Closing appears to be disallowed by US regulations or Ford policy).

On my 2016 you press the unlock button twice and hold the second press until the windows start moving.

Something is wrong. ABS, master cylinder etc. Get the problem diagnosed before the warranty expires.

I am a huge fan of wiring diagrams, but you are looking for a bare wire so the diagram may not be very helpful. The diagram will show all the loads on the circuit and may help isolate parts of the sircuit. But I think you should start at the headlights and look for stray wire strands. Unplug the bulbs and measure the resistance between the terminals in the socket and look for a short (0 ohms).

Older versions of Forscan did not have the feature to set the odometer mileage. I had to send the cluster to a third party where they connected to the EEPROM in the cluster and input the mileage. Now Forscan will allow you to increase the mileage to a new value. The replacement cluster must start with lower mileage to use this feature. The As Built data is a set of hex numbers that define all the settings for the IPC and some vehicle functions like cruise control, compass etc. The data looks like this: 720-01-01 0000 0142 6C 720-02-01 3801 0509 0E7F 720-02-02 1217 1C21 26B7 720-02-03 2C32 3941 4A4E 720-02-04 5562 7285 9D78 720-02-05 BBE1 0000 00CA 720-02-06 002F 720-03-01 2B01 6014 CB 720-09-01 0000 00C0 F1 720-18-01 19BF FFFF 16 720-22-01 BFFF BFFF C6 720-23-01 FCFF F3FE 37 720-36-01 0000 0847 AD If you buy a replacement cluster from the same model year, you probably don't need to make any changes in this data (except for the compass setting). The swap is plug and play except for the mileage setting.

The Focus guys have solved this problem. Locking lug key | Ford Focus RS Forum

Maybe a damaged wire touching the body. Trace the wires in the engine bay.

No programming needed.

The only way to troubleshoot is use a scantool to read the codes that set the fault light. Snapon, Autel etc. are what mechanics use but they are prohibitviely expensive. Forscan is free but requires an adapter that plugs into the OBD2 port. The cheap OBD2 readers you can borrow from the auto parts store will not read the important codes.