Don Ridley

Heat kills LED lights. This is a problem for all types of LED bulbs, especially those that have to fit a format made for incandescent lights. I also found that the super bright LEDS that fit T10 (bayonet type) sockets failed if they were on for long periods of time. The socket format does not allow for a large heat sink. I have replaced all the LED bulbs I installed for parking and brake lights because they did not last. The OEM cargo light definitely is made for constant use. I installed some high quality puck lights that also work well. The key is to buy high quality, not mega-cheap ones. Armacost Lighting 213412 LED Puck Light, Soft White https://a.co/d/fiZbHZY I also have the circuit board light array and so far it is still working, but it is only on for brief periods.

You need to check two basic areas: 1. Wiring and power to the PAM. 2. Scan for codes and check the function of the sensors. I'll find and post the wiring diagrams, but you most likely will need to download Forscan and buy an adapter to use it. Forscan is free and the adapter is $40-100 depending on the quality. Start by researching Forscan (posts on this and other Ford forums). You may need to apply for an "extended license"...it's all on the Forscan website. This license will allow you to upload new configuration files which may will be needed if your PAM is dead. While this may seem like a lot of work, it will save you a ton of money compared to going to a dealership. Forscan.org

Look at local salvage yards. I used car-part.com and found these. Plus you may need the mounting brackets.

I have never removed these side trim pieces. Attached are instructions from the service manual. The panels are glued on and there are several methods listed to remove them. I would try using fishing line as a cutting wire (piano wire method in the manual). Good luck. panels.pdf

Im not sure what you are describing, but unless you see a screw or plastic knockout covering a screw, all panels snap into place. Removing them takes care and patience to figure out where the secure points are to apply appropriate pressure to avoid breaking anything. A set of plastic trim removal tools are helpful.

it is difficult to find a part number for minor bolts. Try taking the photo to a junkyard. Or go to a self service (pull your own parts) junkyard and search TCs and other similar Ford vehicles for a similar bolt.

I covered my bumper with clear vinyl (like used on the front of cars). But your solution is better and looks good with dark paint colors.

Yes. If you buy a used APIM from the same model year you won't have to flash new firmware (only advanced users should attempt this). You will have to load the configuration file and this is relatively easy and a commonly used function in Forscan. You will need to do some homework and Forscan tutorial study, but its not too bad. A used APIM is only around $100. Get Forscan running and scan for errors to confirm the dealership diagnosis first.

The issue is more likely to be a sensor or ECU problem than debris in the system. Modern cooling systems don't get dirty. Engine blocks don't corrode and rust like old cars did. Buy a OBD reader phone app so you can read all of the temperature data when there is a problem. I use the Torque Pro app and a Bluetooth OBD adapter. A scan tool like Forscan will show the codes that caused the limp mode. Loss of coolant can be a sign of a serious problem. A pint lost over a long period of time is not a problem.

Use a relay. The vehicle ECU may throw a code if you add a load to the high beam circuit. Plus headlight power may be modified by the ECU (pulse width modulated) and the LEDs may not work. You can test everything or just use a relay and tap into the fuse block on the front of the battery. See my post on adding high power loads using this fuse block.

The TC is more of a commodity than a Volvo (wife drives a 2020 V60). It shares parts with other common Fords (Focus, Escape etc). Online dealerships are useful for Ford-only parts (like the shifter holding bracket and bushing from the recall) but aftermarket parts work for most repairs. I use Rockauto.com. Shipping can take a while but the prices and selection are very good.

The extra mounting points in the drawing may be for passenger seats. Pop the plastic threshold off and lift up the vinyl mat to confirm.

Here's info on wiring high amperage loads. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6077-how-to-connect-power-for-amps-inverters-and-other-high-current-loads/

Look here: https://ford.7zap.com/en/transport/

Look for a collection of debris around the high mounted stop lamp....leaves, seeds etc.

The connector cost more than the radio!? Good jod using the Tesa cloth tape. I love that product.

Who uses dash covers in the 21st century? In the 1970s and 1980s dash plastic was poorly formulated and cracked when exposed to the sun. This has been corrected in vehicles mfg in this century. Maybe you are saving the dash for the next owner. I'm sure they will greatly appreciate it.

My 2016 TC has rear disc brakes. Are these the same as the Gen3 Focus?

I don't think anyone has ever posted experience with lifting a TC. Only posts about lowering. Try the search function.

This is a good explanation: Ford's Evap System: Operation & Testing | MOTOR Other vehicles are similar because the tests are required by EPA.

The evap system does a complete system leak check using vacuum and pressure. Vacuum comes from the engine and pressure comes from natural sloshing of gasoline in the tank. What problem or error code are your trying to solve. There are detailed descriptions of the evap tests and how and when they are conducted. It's pretty complicated.

Oh man, that's bad news. You seem to have found the information on the dreaded block failures on some Ecoboost engines. Swapping engines and multiple ECUs (PCM, BCM etc) seems too complicated to be worth the effort. Plus you may have registration and emissions issues (depending on your State, Country etc). The Focus is a better match to the TC. But good luck finding a solid Focus ST or RS motor. There is still hope that you only have a bad head gasket. Probably not ☹️

No, I did not have any symptoms listed in the recall. My windshield seemed perfectly fine.. except for several chips and cracks. I only did the recall because I had time on my hands and it would be nice to have the windshield stay attached if I rolled the van.

Read the recall document. It only REQUIRES the windshield be reseated/resealed. No free windshield. I was "lucky" enough to have the glass company damage my windshield during the process and a new one installed for free. The recall fixes a potential safety issue properly. A new windshield is not needed to make the vehicle safe.

The front cigarette lighter socket is always on. Other Fords have outlets where the power will time out after the ignition is turned off (F150 for example) There are numerous circuits that turn off with the ignition. Look at the fuse list in the owners manual. Then find the fuse you want in the block behind the glove box. Use an add-a-fuse connector to tap into the circuit.