Don Ridley

How to replace cabin filter for ford transit connect 2014,2015 ,2016,2018 part 1 - Bing video

No.

I am not aware of an emulator that mimics the passenger seat occupancy sensor. Maybe someone made one for a Focus or F150? But since this is a safety device I would be surprised if one is available comercially. The occupancy sensor is an air bladder under the seat cushion. Air pressure trips a sensor. If the bladder is OK you may find a used sensor from a junkyard that will work (assuming the bladder and sensor can be separated). But it appears that you need to re-zero the bladder/sensor combination with a scan tool. Check the wiring under the seat. Try unplugging the sensor and see if you get a different error code. Hopefully there is an easy fix. Attached are the instructions for replacing the sensor and bladder. SRS.pdf

That's engine RPM. *** Edit: this is wrong. The specs are for the alternator RPM.*** Idle is around 700 RPM so the alternator output will be much less than 88amps.

See if there is an Auto Dimming setting in the menus on the display between the tach and speedo. Use the buttons on the steering wheel to scroll through.

Here's where I got mine. It's not an interactive PDF with hot links, but all the info is there. Unfortunately the wiring diagrams are extra. https://www.factory-manuals.com/ford-transit-connect&28&164

See attached. You have exhausted your free manual downloads......just kidding : ) cowl.pdf wiper motor.pdf

Also, try a master reset (factory defaults) of SYNC using the menu option. This will delete your phone book and other settings.

I assume you have Sync1. You may have a bad APIM module...maybe the LCD display was ok? See what codes Forscan shows. The good news is a used APIM is cheap and you can configure it with Forscan. Once you've done some troubleshooting, we can figure out where the APIM is if needed.

As far as I know the LCD display does not need programming or configuration. You may need to reset the module(s). Try disconnecting the battery (negative terminal recommend) for about 10 minutes. All modules should reset when power is reapplied. Forscan will show if there are any error codes and you can troubleshoot from there if needed.

Yes, that looks possible. The instructions are for removing the door so you can ignore what doesn't apply to your situation. I have not done this repair.

See attached. sliding door.pdf

Yes, I think it is now FRDS. Of course they had no idea how to enable this on whatever system they are now using.....So frustrating.

Feel free to try all of the different settings. I found the IPC is robust and there aren't any settings that will brick the module. You can even try making every change and the only errors you may see will relate to options like Nav that you don't have. Everything can be undone. Good luck.

I would get his VIN, but it's possible (probable) the necessary programming and configuration is in the BCM. I can't flash the BCM with new firmware without affecting PATS and requiring a locksmith to reset the keys so there is no easy way to test this theory. I've looked at numerous 2017, 2018 Titanium trim IPC configuration and all differences did not turn on the DRL menu.

PATS is in the IPC in older vehicles. After 2010 or 2012 PATS is located in the BCM. Forscan can't program keys for the newer PATS.

I have spent hours unsuccessfully looking for the DRL menu in the IPC. I loaded new firmware, changed every IPC as built I could find and ... nothing. I'm convinced it does not exist. If I ever find a 2018 XLT or Titanium trim TC in the wild, I'll have to find the courage to ask the owner to show me the IPC display ?

The switch sends a message to the HVAC control module. The HVAC control module sends a info the the body control module BCM. Troubleshoot where the message is getting stuck.

Search the forums and you will find multiple posts on bike racks both inside and outside. I doubt you will find a convenient way to hang your bike from the ceiling. Even with the front wheel removed, a bike takes up a lot of space. I understand the desire to have the bike inside but hitch mounted racks solve a lot of space problems. If you use one make sure you secure your bile with a u-type lock and not a cable.

Yes, this seems correct. But without all the information on your system I can't make a definitive statement. If everything is workng now, you are good.

Yes, the Posi-Tap connectors are great because you don't have to remove or splice wires. I have also used them to test wires for the proper signal so you are doing things properly. They only make a tiny hole in the wire thay you can leave alone or wrap tape around it if you are really worried. The amp turn on needs to be any 12V signal that is only on when the ignition is on. This is typically used for an external amplifier. IF you need this you can use the signal that turns on power windows and other things. This signal stays active for 10 minutes (called accessory delay) after you turn off the ignition and keep the doors closed. This is useful for listening to music briefly while you wait in the car. You need "door modules", and if you have power windows, you should have door modules. See attached drawing. Let me know if this does not work in your vehicle and we can find another wire connected to the BCM. **EDIT** The amp turn on signal is typically supplied by the head unit. I was thinking about the configuration in my TC and how I had to find an amp turn on signal. I think the OP can ingnore the amp turn on wiring since he does not have an external ammp.f60.pdf f60.pdf

Here are drawings showing the BCM layout, reverse lamp signals and parking brake switch. The BCM layout shows the connector number e.g. C2280C and the pin numbers on each connector. Plug E is C2280E on the BCM. The reverse signal is a blu/wht wire, pin 20 on C2280E. bcm layout.pdf parking brake sw.pdf reverse lamps.pdf

Just be careful with the switch. I don't think it has clean contacts (also called dry contacts). Closing the switch sends a CAN message to the network. If the contacts are ok, you can find time delay relay circuits on Amazon (I have used a couple). They are versatile and easy to program. You may find it difficult to fish wires into the door panels. My TC has a block or plug at the door jam junction with the flexible rubber boot. I can't fish wires through the boot into the door. Wiring and connectors will be the most challenging part of going OEM. Configuration of the BCM (if needed) is easy with Forscan.

The manual shows the speaker location does not change with different models or configuration. The Forscan mobile app will show all error codes and you can read all data points (PIDs). You just can't make any configuration or programming changes.