Don Ridley

You should be able to remove the bottom plastic panel. Then apply 12V to the liftgate latch motor. See attached. liftagte wiring (2020_04_04 01_55_33 UTC).pdf liftgate panel removal (2020_04_04 01_55_33 UTC).pdf

I have a 2016 with the base SYNC 1.1 system and a standard AM/FM radio. I upgraded to an HD radio. I did not activate the SAT radio. Here are the basic steps. This upgrade is rare because most people want SYNC 3 and they upgrade to that technology. I don’t need SYNC 3 but I wanted HD radio after I upgraded my audio system. You only need to change a few settings. The changes outlined below assume you do NOT have SAT radio (this should be true because you could not buy only HD radio w/o SAT). 1. Find a used HD radio (the unit is the ACM, audio control module). They are common and it appears the 2014 to 2017(maybe later) TCs used the exact same units. The firmware in the HD radios did not change so don’t worry about buying a unit from an older or newer model year TC. Old standard ACM part number: DT1T-19C107-AF New HD/SAT radio ACM: DT1T-19C107-CE through CJ 2. Use Forscan to change the as-built data in the ACM to delete SAT radio and add HD radio. 727-01-01 7000 2C00…… change to: F000 2C00 3. Change the APIM configuration to add HD radio and no SAT radio. 7D0-01-01 11A7 8840…….change to: 11A4 F840 4. Change the FCDIM configuration. 7A5-01-01 0222 0008…..change to: 0222 0009 Old ACM, non-HD New HD ACM

According to this block diagram, the APIM is not installed (I think) if you don't have any of the "green" box items/functions. If the ACM is bad, you can get one used for under $100...but it also needs to be programmed (configured) to your vehicle unless it came out of a TC that had the same trim levels and options. Your Ford dealer can easily connect their computer to the TC and see what modules are installed and firmware and configuration file version. I assumed they did this during the diagnosis and found error messages related to the APIM. Apparently not. They shouldn't have to guess about any of this. APIM.pdf

I'm doing some experimenting with the APIM. I bought a used one for my 2016 TC for $75 shipped. This gives me a cheap test unit in case I do some damage in my experiments. It's ridiculous how much Ford wants to replace these things. There is big aftermarket for people that want to upgrade from SYNC1,2 to SYNC3, but not for normal repairs/replacement.

Maybe a good independent repair shop can reflash a used APIM. Probably not....

Since you don't have SYNC, I think your best option is to install an aftermarket radio. Finding the right used APIM for your trim level will be difficult and the possibility of it not working or needing programming is very high. Plus, you don't want the hassle and liability of working on your own vehicle. For reference, I have used this online junkyard search to find parts: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market After some trial and error on the search function I came up with lots of hits on SYNC modules but many were from a Focus and probably won't work in a TC without programming. The guys at any junkyard won't be experts on all the different module versions and firmware versions. They only know if part numbers match or don't. Note the APIM controls other functions like the backup camera so you need it to work.

This is a complicated question/problem that I have am also trying to figure out. First: I hope the dealer is correct in the diagnosis. The ACM is cheap and easy to find. Second: You need to know if you have Sync 1. Do you have the small color screen in the middle of the dash? See attached photo. The APIM must have the correct firmware and configuration file. The dealer will buy a blank APIM and load the firmware and configuration. The part number CHANGES (e.g. Ford will install a different part number than your original APIM) every model year and your exact APIM will not be listed on any Ford parts site. If you are motivated you may be able to find a junkyard APIM for around $100 with the right firmware and configuration. I recommend removing your APIM and note the part numbers on the module. Use this and the trim level of your van to search online junkyards for the same year and trim level (especially SYNC level) van that has been wrecked. The junkyard should have a photo of the APIM and you can compare the part numbers. Your APIM and configuration may be simple and common enough to find easily. This may be a tedious search. But you may be able to save a ton of money. Let me know if you are interested and I can give you a couple of good online junkyard resources. FYI, I was wondering about updating the firmware but it's complicated. Here is a screenshot of all the files in my simple Sync 1 APIM. The firmware files are impossible to find and you need to use Forscan to upload the firmware and hopefully not brick your APIM

Do you have any accessories running (fan, AC...etc)? Did the shop scan for any codes? You may have to drive it until it gets bad enough to diagnose.

Probably a bad light or connection. The third brake light is an LED so it can have intermittent failure unlike an incandescent light. I changed my brake lights to LED without any issues. I eventually switched back to incandescent bulbs because I think they are brighter due to the tail light housing and reflector design.

That is a jack nut. They don't require a special tool to install like rivnuts.

I agree that it would take a significant misfire to cause hard idling. The rear engine/transmission mount greatly dampens vibrations. I installed a hard rubber performance-type mount and this created unacceptable vibration and rattle at idle. This motor mount is very easy to inspect and change. Two bolts are easy to access once the vehicle is raised. Look for broken rubber in the center section.

No. There is barely 9 feet between the back to the front windows. If you could somehow suspend the board it would hit the driver and passenger. The armrest would be in the way if the board was suspended on it's side.

Check for misfires using a scan tool. You may have an ignition problem that can be solved with plugs and/or coil packs.

This may help. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/8941-p71-cop-car-style-hub-caps-on-a-transit-connect/?tab=comments#comment-35812

Floor removal/footwell info

There are 4 brackets for each seat. They are recessed and welded in place. It's hard to see with the carpet installed. The foot well area has been discussed in several posts where people have made use of the space. I think a cover plate is easily removed. Here are a couple of photos. Ideally you can borrow a passenger van (wagon) to get a better look. Maybe rent one for a day? Finding a junked wagon locally will be difficult. They are not common.

All car doors have drain holes. You won't see a removable drain plug. There are various types of slats and holes so look for any openings on the bottom. Use compressed air to blow out the opening. Otherwise you have to remove the door panel and service the door drains from the inside.

They probably don't monitor this forum. Per their post: Call Ursa Minor at 619-424-9030 or email us at info@ursaminorvehicles.com

It would not be simple. The mounting brackets may be difficult to install. You also would need to open the foot well. Your best bet would be to get all the parts from a salvaged vehicle. My guess is this project would require a high level of skills and tools.

The hook screws into the socket. It's needed because there are no strong frame parts easily accessible. So if you are stuck in the snow or mud the hook allows safe retrieval. Look at the bumper on most cars and you will see a square pop-out piece. This is for a recovery hook.

Recovery/tow hook. My 2016 did not come with one but there is a storage space for it. There are forum posts about this.

I don't have any experience with an engine swap. Are you using a real scan tool or just an OBII reader? A scan tool will show any errors in communication or configuration with the ECM (actually the PCM in a Ford). Check out Forscan. You may need to do a relearn on the PCM. Forscan can do this. Google engine swaps on various Fords to see what's needed.

Seattle Chris, What model/year is your van? I searched ebay, LKQ and other sites for photographs of the color display IPC. It looks like the 2015 Transit 250 has part number CK4T-10849 - BB to BK. The B suffix appears to identify the color display. I found one on LKQ. 2015 Ford Transit 250 Speedometer Head / Cluster - ~265909552 | LKQOnline My buddy never proceeded with the upgrade but I remember doing some research and it looked straight forward. I'll send you a PM with my contact info so we don't clog this thread with too much detail. I also use Autotrader to find good photos of optional equipment and the VIN so we can get the configuration files to compare the standard vs upgraded IPC configuration files.

A Transit Connect IPC will not work in a Transit. The two vehicles use different architecture in their networks. I was able to use a Focus IPC in a TC because they are built on the same platform...mechanical and electrical. Your best bet is to find the premium versions of the Transit and see what options are available compared to yours. Then you can begin a similar process of sourcing the parts and testing the programming. I looked into this for a friend several years ago and saw there is a premium IPC for the 2014 Transit. My brief research showed it should be easy to upgrade with this IPC. You may have to compare the configuration files of the two IPCs to see what is different and may need to be changed. This is relatively easy, but my guess is it will be plug and play.

If you are willing to do some reading and research, Forscan is a better a solution. Forscan can perform almost everything the OEM Ford software IDS does. Forscan is free and the required adapter is under $100. You need a laptop PC with Windows. I doubt any other scan tool can perform vehicle configuration changes like adding cruise control, DRL delete etc .