Don Ridley

Forscan is free but requires a laptop and an adapter. Self contained scanners are faster and easier to use but the good ones (used by shops) need a subscription. I think the device you are looking at will be fine for all the normal problems.... assuming it works. It must have the ability to read DTCs to be useful.

Search this forum for the rails. I think there was a company that upfitted TCs and removed the roof rails frequently and they advertised those rails in this forum. Maybe someone else here has better recollection...

Here's the wiring diagram for most of the loads connected to F33. Note the heater circuit on the O2 sensor. f33.pdf

I doubt the lightning strike affected the fuse. F33 powers a lot of critical components. Maybe the O2 sensors are going bad? Solenoid valves don't usually cause a short circuit. See if there is a way to bench test the O2 sensors. I know they have a heater circuit.

"P" codes are from powertain components. "U" codes are network errors and are the ones most likely affected by electrical gremlins (but NOT always). You should look up each code and see if there is a common element.

Click the computer chip icon. Save every module configuration before making any changes

It will be complicated and costly to implement factory fog lights: Wire harness, headlight switch w/fogs and ECU programming. Not worth the effort.

I think the fog lights are driven by a pulse width modulated (pwm) signal. It is not 12V DC. LED headlight mfrs make circuits to convert PWM to DC.

The catalytic converter on the 1.6L is difficult to access. The vehicles are so uncommon I doubt thieves know how to steal them (if it's possible). They probably don't even know the TC can have different engines. Next time I'm under the van I'll take a good look.

These types of problems require a scan tool to read the error codes. It's impossible to troubleshoot without this information. The scanners can be expensive. Forscan is free but requires a $40-75 adapter. This has been discussed on the forum so search Forscan for info.

"Moment holidaymaker is forced to watch helplessly as his car sinks into sand | Daily Mail Online" https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-9901067/Moment-holidaymaker-forced-watch-helplessly-car-sinks-sand.html

40mA is what my 2016 measured also.

You have replaced all of the suspect mechanical components. You may have a problem components related to ABS, traction control or hill assist. You need to a scan tool (Forscan or other professional scan tool) to check for codes to see if the ABS or other systems are being activated. A message should appear in the center message center if these functions are activated. But there are valves in the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) that control the flow of brake fluid to each wheel and maybe one of them are faulty or getting a bad signal from the ABS control unit.

https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/7246-2015-tc-transmission-fluid-change/?tab=comments#comment-26131

Using the recirculation setting on the AC produces colder air because the inside air is cooler than the outside air. The air filter does restrict the flow of outside air but that's not why it is less effective at cooling the cabin. The TC air conditioner is undersized in my opinion.

My experience with the foam tapes made for architectural applications is it does not withstand the high heat found in vehicles. The adhesive will turn gooey. I also found this problem exists for normal electrical tape. If you plan on keeping your TC for a long time it will pay to use the automotive specific products or just avoid adhesive tapes and use cable ties.

I have looked but never found the wire insulating foam. It is a specialty item that is probably not sold in retail quantities. I wrap all my wiring in Tesa tape. This tape is used by many Euro car manufacturers. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7KQF794FFZZRYBJC7R13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I have also used Home Depot pipe insulation to wrap wires. Buy the black squishy foam type, not the grey plastic foam type.

DRLs on my 2016 can't be turned off. Every switch position leaves them on. But can disable the DRL with Forscan. A dealership should be able to disable them if you don't live in Canada where they are required by law.

I tested some adhesive magnetic strips and I concluded they probably would not work. The adhesive would fail especially in the California heat and the magnets were surprisingly weak unless you had a larger surface area. The magnetic force of my setup is very strong and I learned I needed to stack two magnets to get it to work consistently.

The spring mechanism on the sun visors is terrible and after a few uses the visor will not snap into the "up" position. This leaves the visor flopping about 1inch in the up position. This fix is tedious but it works. You fabricate a plastic holder for some magnets in the overhead shelf and install a metal screw in the visor. The neodymium magnets are strong enough to hold the visor if you stack two magnets (this increases the magnetic field) and use a screw with a large and flat head. Here are the basic steps. I used the handle from a Home Depot brush because the size was perfect and the plastic was relatively soft. I used a Dremel to shape the plastic into an insert for a slat in the overhead shelf. I did a lot of grinding and test fitting to get it right. The plastic piece inserts into the slot from the bottom and an aluminum (or other material) bracket screws into the top to hold it. I used neodymium magnets and stacked two into the plastic insert. The depth of the magnets is important. Finally, a small screw is installed in the visor. Adjust the magnet and screw depth so the visor fully retracts into the up position and makes magnetic contact. If the gap is too big the screw and magnets will rattle. The screw head is about the same diameter as the magnet. I bought the magnets at Home Depot also.

Thanks for the information. I checked my supply of parts and an air filter and oil filter have the old packaging. I compared air filters with new and old packaging and they are identical except for the mfg date: one in 2017 and one in 2019. I typically buy from Amazon and Rock Auto: never from eBay.

Here's my bike rack. This would work even better in the LWB versions. Loading and unloading takes seconds and not removing the front wheel is a luxury you never knew you needed. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5668-interior-mounted-bike-rack/?tab=comments#comment-16403

Forscan is free software that is a scantool for Ford vehicles (read trouble codes, check misfires etc..). It can also change some settings like adding cruise control. You need to buy a quality adapter if your are going to make any configuration changes. OBD Link is strongly recommended. Read about Forscan in various posts in this forum. Read the following tutorials. Here is a tutorial for changing settings in a Escape. You can follow this to change the menu setting for wheel circumference. 2017 Escape FORScan CC Instructions.pdf - Google Drive Here's more info on Forscan. FORScan Tutorial - Google Docs

$2500 buys a lot of parts and normal service. My unscientific and not-statistically proven requirement is insurance needs to pay at least 5 times what I can afford.

I don't know if this is possible but I have read many accounts of cheap replacement keys failing to program. Unfortunately you have to pay to have the key cut before you can try to program it. If it fails you can't return it for a refund. But, it's easy to add new keys using the procedure in the owner's manual. You need two original keys to do this.