Don Ridley

I tested some adhesive magnetic strips and I concluded they probably would not work. The adhesive would fail especially in the California heat and the magnets were surprisingly weak unless you had a larger surface area. The magnetic force of my setup is very strong and I learned I needed to stack two magnets to get it to work consistently.

The spring mechanism on the sun visors is terrible and after a few uses the visor will not snap into the "up" position. This leaves the visor flopping about 1inch in the up position. This fix is tedious but it works. You fabricate a plastic holder for some magnets in the overhead shelf and install a metal screw in the visor. The neodymium magnets are strong enough to hold the visor if you stack two magnets (this increases the magnetic field) and use a screw with a large and flat head. Here are the basic steps. I used the handle from a Home Depot brush because the size was perfect and the plastic was relatively soft. I used a Dremel to shape the plastic into an insert for a slat in the overhead shelf. I did a lot of grinding and test fitting to get it right. The plastic piece inserts into the slot from the bottom and an aluminum (or other material) bracket screws into the top to hold it. I used neodymium magnets and stacked two into the plastic insert. The depth of the magnets is important. Finally, a small screw is installed in the visor. Adjust the magnet and screw depth so the visor fully retracts into the up position and makes magnetic contact. If the gap is too big the screw and magnets will rattle. The screw head is about the same diameter as the magnet. I bought the magnets at Home Depot also.

Thanks for the information. I checked my supply of parts and an air filter and oil filter have the old packaging. I compared air filters with new and old packaging and they are identical except for the mfg date: one in 2017 and one in 2019. I typically buy from Amazon and Rock Auto: never from eBay.

Here's my bike rack. This would work even better in the LWB versions. Loading and unloading takes seconds and not removing the front wheel is a luxury you never knew you needed. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5668-interior-mounted-bike-rack/?tab=comments#comment-16403

Forscan is free software that is a scantool for Ford vehicles (read trouble codes, check misfires etc..). It can also change some settings like adding cruise control. You need to buy a quality adapter if your are going to make any configuration changes. OBD Link is strongly recommended. Read about Forscan in various posts in this forum. Read the following tutorials. Here is a tutorial for changing settings in a Escape. You can follow this to change the menu setting for wheel circumference. 2017 Escape FORScan CC Instructions.pdf - Google Drive Here's more info on Forscan. FORScan Tutorial - Google Docs

$2500 buys a lot of parts and normal service. My unscientific and not-statistically proven requirement is insurance needs to pay at least 5 times what I can afford.

I don't know if this is possible but I have read many accounts of cheap replacement keys failing to program. Unfortunately you have to pay to have the key cut before you can try to program it. If it fails you can't return it for a refund. But, it's easy to add new keys using the procedure in the owner's manual. You need two original keys to do this.

Ford thought Americans wanted the plates to sag....

215 50R17

Make sure the second set of tires are far from your vehicle. Make sure there are no strong radio frequency signals nearby. Try the training process by starting at a different wheel in case the LF sensor is bad. See if any wheel causes the vehicle to see a sensor as the first one in the training process. Try a master reset of all the modules in the vehicle by disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes. You may need a scan tool to troubleshoot further.

Maybe you need to go for a short drive to wake up the sensors first?

Do a parts search on any Ford parts suppliers website and compare part numbers. TASCA is a good reference.

It takes some time to get all the parts and special tools you will need like nutsert tool, hole saw, specialty fasteners, panel removal tools, posi-tap connectors etc.. Once you have the brackets fabricated it will take about 3 days to complete the job. One day will involve mounting the brackets and new struts and removing panels for wiring runs. Then another day for, mounting controller, modify harness, drilling holes, pulling wires and making all wiring connections. The third day will involve testing, debug and finish work. This project took me over a week but I was doing a lot of R&D and testing. I highly recommend using the OEM lower strut mounting points to see of they will work. If this works it saves you hours of drilling out the spot welds and fabricating a cover plate. This is a project for a person who wants a challenge and has mechanical and wiring skills and a good set of tools. My liftgate is working flawlessly.

In general, no the Gen 1 is not better than the gen 2. The only real advantage is extra roof height. Gen 2 has a better drivetrain (stronger motor) and updated electronics (same as Focus). But many report lots of miles in both and they seem to last. $16,500 seems high for the base model Gen 2.... But I am not in the market.

This tape will never get gooey and has great abrasion resistance. I will never use regular electrical tape in an automotive application again. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I2MLN2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_66EXQ5MZZXXT36P32TX4

How did you check for codes? You need a proper diagnostic scan tool, not an OBDII code reader you can borrow from an auto parts store. I have attached the rest of the troubleshooting instructions from the service manual. You may need to do some detailed troubleshooting for this problem. I would start by toggling the wiper switch and checking the PID for the switch to ensure it changes state. I would also disconnect components to verify DTCs are triggered. Some of these test may lead to the conclusion that the BCM is bad. It's possible to install a used BCM using Forscan but this requires "advanced" level Forscan knowlege and experience. If you need to go this route it's probably best visit a dealership or experienced Ford repair shop. wiper troubleshoot_pt 2.pdf

Youtube shows a donut-shaped magnet. As GBL said, the magnet does not work on the gen 2 TCs.

Your van looks good. Ordering a vehicle takes time but you get exactly what you want. 16-20 weeks is normal and fortunately COVID has not limited production. The "longest" leg of my van's journey was from the port on the east coast to the dealer on the west coast...it seemed to take forever but was only a couple of weeks.

Here is the wiring diagram and portion of the troubleshooting section from the service manual. As you can see it is impossible to troubleshoot without knowing the DTCs. wiper_front.pdf wiper troubleshoot_min.pdf

The wipers are controlled by the body control module (BCM). I'll post the wiring diagram later. Even with the diagram, your should invest in a scan tool. Cheapest solution is lto oad Forscan Lite (about $10) on your phone and buy an OBDLINK MX dongle (approx$70). This will allow you to read the DTCs. Everything on these vehicles are controlled by computer modules and the DTCs will usually identify the source of the problem.

Yes. The bulkheads are needed for air flow and pressure equalization. You really notice the pressure when you close a lift gate.

You have a 2021? Forscan probably needs to update their database. Go to the Forscan webpage and send the developers a message (don't post on the forum). Give them all the info on your vehicle: model, year, vin etc.. Also make sure you are running the latest Forscan version.

I reviewed the electrical diagram for my 2016 wagon and there are several configurations for the rear luggage compartment aux outlet. F11 and F15 in the battery junction box are used depending on van/wagon and start-stop option. F24 is the Aux Junction Box (AJB) is used for a wagon with start-stop. I don't have start-stop and there is no fuse in the F24 slot. F24 is not a normal fuse. It is probably a slo-blo fuse and would look more like a very small relay module with one female socket, not a normal mini bladed fuse. But every configuration in my 2016 feeds the socket directly and does not go through any computer modules. I ran the latest version of Forscan and there is a setting for the aux socket. This setting must be for models after 2016. Mine is set at "not configured". If anyone has the service manual for a 2019+ it would be interesting to see where the power for the aux socket is coming from.

You need a wiring diagram. Almost all electrical loads go through a computer module. The aux outlets may be controlled to set the timeout, switch on with ignition etc. I doubt you will find a wire that goes from the fuse to the socket. You may need to program the module for the new outlet. Nothing is simple any more.

That is very interesting. The LED driver may be oscillating at a frequency that interferes with the fob. Lots of DC converters are actually operating at high frequencies. Evey 120v cell phone charger is actually a high frequency oscillator.