Don Ridley

All smartphone scan tools like Forscan and Torque Pro will have limited diagnostic functions. You need Forscan and a Windows PC or expensive software like SnapOn, Autel etc for in depth troubleshooting. Nobody makes a full service iPhone scan tool.

Your images are not viewable. In 2016 I could not order a LWB with the 1.6L ecoboost so your description conflicts with what I thought was a fact. I would not buy a turbo vehicle with 150k miles. Too many expensive parts that can fail. My 2016 1.6l only has 55k and works great and I love the extra torque and HP from the turbo.

Are you waiting 5-10 minutes for the ECU to go to sleep? Connect your test leads to the negative terminal to minimize the possibility of shorting to the chassis.

Rodents nesting in cars and chewing wiring has been happening for decades. Maybe they will like the soy flavor better, but it's not creating a new problem. Nothing a good cat can't fix :?

The Gen 2 (2014+) TCs do not have a battery monitoring system unless you have the 1.6L ecoboost engine. BMS must be reset using a scan tool.

Nice to see it is back.

The wiper circuit is complicated. The switch sends a LIN network signal to the body control module (BCM). The BCM sends a LIN signal to the wiper motor. The BCM is looking at a lot of information to determine how to control the wipers like the rain sensor, requested speed etc.. You will not be able to control the wipers unless the BCM is running. You will have similar problems with the fans and heater since the BCM controls them also. You best bet is to add battery capacity that will power the entire vehicle. There may be problems with the battery nonitoring system (BMS) if your model year has one. The BMS monitors the battery state of charge and turns off components if the charge is too low. It won't know you have multiple batteries and may not function properly.

Every one I have replaced since the late 90s have never shown any cracks or wear. My plan is to replace them every 10 years since I will not exceed 100,000 miles. I think the good-old-days of a broken fan belt are long gone.

AutoZone can't read DTC (diagnostic trouble codes). You need a professional scan tool (Snap On, Autel etc) or Forscan. Replacing the sensors is simple and the manual has the two steps (partially) shown in the attached image of the previous post.

You should scan for codes. A bad wheel sensor will throw a code. Replacing the sensors look easy.

It may be a bad clutch on the AC. The clutch is on the front of the pulley and an electro magnet pulls it tight to turn the compressor. Check out some YouTube videos to see how they operate. You can see it activate and release when it's working properly.

I used a threaded bolt hole on the floor next to the front seat (next to the rear seat rail mount). M10 bolt I think.

Yes, that will remove power from the ACM. You MAY lose radio presets.

2014-2016 should work (maybe 2017 & 2018 to get one in better condition). I don't have an authoritative list. Most will have both cruise and stereo controls. There is a post about someone who tried a steering wheel from a full size Transit that did not work. Look at car-part.com.

I have not seen any documentation on wire color standards for automotive wiring. Ford seems to have some standard colors but these may change with product line.Note that automotive wire ampacity does not follow NEC (NEC ampacity limts are overrated for safety). I bought 5 or 6 rolls of 14 and 18 ga wire. I chose colors that I liked. 14ga is overkill for most applications. 18ga is versatile for all circuits 10amp and lower.

Yes, the 2014 should work without any problems. Buy the correct steering wheel.

The bolts are fine unless the brakes have been damaged by contact with something. This type of damage would also have damaged the wheel. You are probably feeling a rotor that is warped or has uneven brake pad deposits. This problem plagues many disc brakes and happens for a variety of reasons. You need new pads and rotors to fix it. The brakes will stop OK and are safe to use but they are annoying in this condition.

Brake guide bolts 28 Nm Brake caliper bracket 175 Nm

I bought a manual from this company in 2016. It is a PDF of the factory manual. It's only shortcoming is the hot links in the PDF don't work. But the manual is very useful and thorough. The wiring diagrams are extra and I probably have used these more than the manual. https://www.factory-manuals.com/ford-transit-connect&28&164 I mounted the amp under the driver's seat. My 2016 has large blocks of styrofoam under the carpet. I don't think the 2022 dash is the same as the 2016 or I would send you info.

Hayley, My liftgate is working without any problems. The RV shop should be able to handle the installation with my instructions. The only downside to the product is the auto latch-draw tite mechanism won't easily work on the TC (this part would eliminate the problem of not fully latching when all windows are rolled up). Feel free to post any questions your shop has.

You will have to drill holes in the plastic and secure some d-rings or hooks with short screws. Don't worry about resale value (it just doesn't matter... especially on a trade in). It's your van and you need it to function for you. Let the next owner worry about your modifications.

Nice work. I have never seen a tap get chewed up like that. Maybe the parts-store quality is to blame. Hopefully a couple of rewarding beverages has calmed you down : )

You need a professional scan tool (Snap On, Autel), Ford IDS software, or the free scan tool software Forscan. Forscan requires an adapter ($65) and you will need to learn how to use it (several hours reading, research). Search this forum for Forscan info. Here is a comprehensive souce of Forscan info: FORScan Threads and Resources Index - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com) If you plan on doing any work on your TC in the future, you will need a scan tool so the Forscan learning curve will not be wasted. If you just want to fix this problem the fast way is to go to any competent mechanic and they can rest the ABS system. There is always the possibility there is still a problem that needs to be addressed.

I don't know the circuitry in the LED assembly or the details of their AC voltage/ LED driver. But they are likely just using a switching-type transformer. The vehicle 12vdc is better than the transformer output.****EDIT: these LEDs may not work.****. Buy one and test it or find LEDs made for generic 12vdc sources. These are easy to install, are bright and don't need any special power supply.

You do not need any additional components to install LED lights designed to operate as stand alone devices. Any 12v automotive LED light works without modification. If you purchase single LEDs from an electronics supplier, you need to add circuitry.